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@abnoxiousorange
Forgive me its probably posted are you a vendor waiting to get on the board? Who is SCT? If someone likes what im going to post they can use it or see for themselves. maybe i missed something? Im all for helping the 2.0/2.4 crowd as most love is going to the 1.4 turbo (most work has been done since its the same engine as fiat AFAIK)
@youngsmith53

sorry for muddling up your build thread. its grown to 36 pages!
 
@abnoxiousorange
Forgive me its probably posted are you a vendor waiting to get on the board? Who is SCT? If someone likes what im going to post they can use it or see for themselves. maybe i missed something? Im all for helping the 2.0/2.4 crowd as most love is going to the 1.4 turbo (most work has been done since its the same engine as fiat AFAIK)
@youngsmith53

sorry for muddling up your build thread. its grown to 36 pages!
Noo I am not a vendor lol, just someone who wants to get SCT to unlock the code of the Dart so I can get my tuner to tune for you guys. He is a solid tuner for the Focus and said he is willing to give the Dart 2.0/2.4 a stab, learned so much from the man.
 
Discussion starter · #363 ·
@abnoxiousorange tried to break it down for us.... today seems to be English Essay day on the build thread, lol...

@youngsmith53 so much to reply to so I will just keep it general. I know how you feel I think I am done with mods until next spring then it's stage 2 cams, crower springs and retainer, and SVT damper time. Not a bad idea to hold off on that, you will lose some coolant in the process and Mopar HOAT coolant is 80 bux (though I believe Zerex G05 is the same stuff which can be had for cheaper). As hot as these cars run I don't believe he will have a problem running a 180*deg t-stat. I'm sure you all know the car will reach it's operating temp no matter what t-stat you are using, the 180* t-stat just keeps things safer and reduces the risk of knock (more noticible with a tune). I am pretty sure the 1.4 has a beefier radiator as it is turbocharged like the older turbo Dodges did.
Yeah, I rather just do the proper research to get the 180* t-stat and if it takes until Spring, then so-be-it... I'm sure I'll have enough odds and ends to keep be busy in the winter months with some oil changes and or whatnot. I'm sure there will be some breakthroughs over the course of the winter months that will push the N/a Dart community. But I am pretty dead-set on working on fine-tuning the suspension in the spring...

And yes you are right about losing MPG with mods, as you add mods without a tune you are slowly (not putting your engine in danger until you do header) leaning out your engine each time. Be sure that whoever is selling you that header offers some type of compensation tune for it or you will be leaning out your engine, and yes you can lean out your engine on an n/a application. Be looking to get a wideband too, I believe I gave you information on that already and which one to get. With a tune you will get your MPG back tenfold and get driveability you never knew existed in your car. Lets hope SCT gets off their butt.
I have seen that already with the spectrum tune, I would run the hell out of Aya before and I was still able to get great gas mileage because the tune compensated for the add-ons and didn't lean her out. With the Header, it is all hear-say right now. I highly doubt that I will be able to get one out within the next couple of months, and yes, there much be a tune to compensate because you know damn well there is going to be codes popping left and right with a header.

As far as the wideband, it is still on my eBay list of goodies, the only thing I would need help with is the welding part as I don't have a access or the tools to complete... maybe one day or a road trip of some sorts :)

@Bullfrog , we will be doing some real datalogging and tuning once SCT gets on board, call them up and tell them you are interested in Dart 2.0/2.4 support.
Email, call, mail... SCT, they seem to be the only company that is interested in the handhelds for the 2.0/2.4 platform.

SCT Performance - More Power! Less Fuel!
Phone: 407-774-2447
SCT Performance LLC.
4150 Church Street - Suite 1024
Sanford, Florida 32771 USA

Its coming up on that time for me to email them as well...

Suspension is one of the best things to upgrade on the Dart, its handling is pretty top notch and I would run it in sanctioned events in a heartbeat.
As far as suspension set up, I am excited to do the set up. I didn't want to go coil-overs (mainly cost) but because I rather get different shocks once they become available (because seriously they are going to become available). I would love to run Koni or Bilstein, and I am sure something is in the pipeline... I rather fine tune with springs and shocks, then just go with the (add to cart/1-stop shop method) coil-overs. Might sound crazy but that's how my mind works...
 
What I'm going to do is put the thermostat fan control in and put a switch next to the truck button so I can turn on everything at my own leaser but I'm still gonna have it hooked up so once it hits that certain temp to kick on it'll do it on its own that and the transmission cooler will bring trans temps down and in the process of doing that I'm gonna be installing a volt gauge, trans temp gauge, and intake gauge. I would like to drop the engine temps down to at least 178 or 180 I'm also going to be building my own aluminum 3 in high velocity fans I'm going to put one in the front of the intake and one right at the throttle body I'm hoping it'll act as a mini turbo were it'll push the air threw at 2x the speed I haven't figured out a way for it to contain the air and release it like a turbo but I'm willing to try this first and see where it leads me. Also I have yet to install my tuner I wanna see how it reacts without it first.
 
Discussion starter · #365 · (Edited)
15 x 7 40mm (or 38mm) Offset 5x110... anyone know if I could run that wheel setup? I know 16s will work, but wondering if a drop to 15's could...

(this was probably the shortest post of the day...lol)
 
I'm going to keep up with maintaining fluid changes as well I just like how it soaks itself into the metal to provide an all around protection on the engine trans and fuel lines injectors ect. All lucas does is lubricant zmax does that x10 in my personal opinion
 
Discussion starter · #368 ·
As for the zmax I used that hole that you have up
Well thank you for being the guinea pig and testing out that hole, we at least now have our answer for transmission fluid changes, much appreciated @R3DMONSTER , thank you for the R&D. The power-tech is not a sealed for life transmission... :)
 
15 x 7 40mm (or 38mm) Offset 5x110... anyone know if I could run that wheel setup? I know 16s will work, but wondering if a drop to 15's could...

(this was probably the shortest post of the day...lol)
I don't think anything smaller than 16s will fit with the front brake rotors. Those suckers are not small.
 
Discussion starter · #372 ·
I don't think anything smaller than 16s will fit with the front brake rotors. Those suckers are not small.
That's what I needed to know... I though it was just the offset that mattered with clearing the rotors. The search continues...
 
That's what I needed to know... I though it was just the offset that mattered with clearing the rotors. The search continues...
Both the offset and the diameter are necessary to clear the calipers, technically. The minimum offset is to clear the outer face of the caliper (the part you can see looking at the wheel on the car) and the minimum diameter is to clear the outer edge of the caliper, which is a function of the size of the rotors (the larger the rotor, the further out you have to place the calipers, and the larger the wheels has to be). You can adjust the offset with spacers and longer bolts if you need to push the wheel further out from the hub face (for example, if you had a really awesome wheel that would fit but only had 30mm offset, you could get 10mm spacers and bolts 10mm longer than stock to use them), but there's no way around minimum diameter.
 
Discussion starter · #375 ·
Both the offset and the diameter are necessary to clear the calipers, technically. The minimum offset is to clear the outer face of the caliper (the part you can see looking at the wheel on the car) and the minimum diameter is to clear the outer edge of the caliper, which is a function of the size of the rotors (the larger the rotor, the further out you have to place the calipers, and the larger the wheels has to be). You can adjust the offset with spacers and longer bolts if you need to push the wheel further out from the hub face (for example, if you had a really awesome wheel that would fit but only had 30mm offset, you could get 10mm spacers and bolts 10mm longer than stock to use them), but there's no way around minimum diameter.
Thanks @jsblanch , the one set of 16's I was looking at are being discontinued, so I turned by head to some super lightweight 15's... Much appreciated with the quick response last night
 
Discussion starter · #377 ·
@Bullfrog , not sure there is a "guide" so to speak, just been piecing everything together from the search bar lol
 
Thanks @jsblanch , the one set of 16's I was looking at are being discontinued, so I turned by head to some super lightweight 15's... Much appreciated with the quick response last night
Andros Spec D's have a factory SXT wheel look to them, are a lot lighter than the stock wheels, can use the stock lug bolts, AND come in 16"-18" sizes ;)
 
Discussion starter · #379 · (Edited)
Andros Spec D's have a factory SXT wheel look to them, are a lot lighter than the stock wheels, can use the stock lug bolts, AND come in 16"-18" sizes ;)
I have been checking those out but unfortunately they are always out of stock or low stock on tire-rack, or I would have picked them up in the heartbeat. Currently they only show 2 in stock...

I was able to find the wheels I like. Maxxim Champion Black / Machined, they are 16x7 / 40mm and only weight 16.8 lbs a piece (31.2 lbs total weight difference from stock). Which to me is pretty substantial. Another vendor has them on the web and I might just pick them up, but to do so I wold need to sell my stock original hyper-blacks.

Not sure if anyone is actually interested in stock hyper-blacks with tires & TPMS though.
 
I have been checking those out but unfortunately they are always out of stock or low stock on tire-rack, or I would have picked them up in the heartbeat. Currently they only show 2 in stock...

I was able to find the wheels I like. Maxxim Champion Black / Machined, they are 16x7 / 40mm and only weight 16.8 lbs a piece (31.2 lbs total weight difference from stock). Which to me is pretty substantial. Another vendor has them on the web and I might just pick them up, but to do so I wold need to sell my stock original hyper-blacks.

Not sure if anyone is actually interested in stock hyper-blacks with tires & TPMS though.
If they're "true" hyperblacks (the darker kind) then you should have no issues selling them if they're in good shape. I've seen some sell for around $1,300 on here before due to the rarity.
 
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