I'm 99% sure it's a sealed unit. Shouldn't need service. I could be wrong though.

 

In the owners manual, it says that it should be service at the 60,000 for the 2.0? On my wife Malibu it said 100,000 but I just did it at the 50,000 and that fluid was very dark like oil instead of being red in color. I don't trust that they claim a lifetime on the transmission fluid.

 

Sealed units have always made me a little hesitant.

 

It's sealed, though it requires a flush at some point (or multiple points) depending on how long you keep the car. 60k miles seems to be around the ballpark.

 

Well I did some web surfing and look at a Hyundai site since it's the same transmission there using on the Dart. So it can be service... Here is a write up I found and want to pass along to other members that are interested on doing there own service.

Here are the official instructions printed out for me by my dealers service dept. The guide says if you have severe use of your vehicle then you should replace ATF every 60k miles.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7077/7166319815_b92f60feef_b.jpg

Step 1: Remove the transmission drain plug from bottom of transmission case. This will drain aprox 5 liters of fluid. Allow time for all fluid to drain.

Step 2: Re-install drain plug and tourqe to 34.3 - 44.1 NM (3.5 - 4.5 kgf.m, 25.3 - 32.6 lb-ft)

Step 3: Unscrew filler eyebolt (see below...front slightly to the right of the engine). I found that the my socket wrench extension fit perfectly into the square opening in the middle of the eyebolt.


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8145/7166319773_8a3e09c809_b.jpg

Step 4: Insert your funnel into the opening and start adding fluid very slowly. I found that it liked to back up and overflow if I went to fast. It took about 30 mins for me to get all the fluid in without it backing up and out of the opening. The instructions call for adding 5 liters but the service counter guy recommended going with only 4.5 liters at least until you can check the level.

Now time to check the fluid level. The instructions say this is easier with vehicle on a lift.

Step 1. Start the engine (don't step on brake and accelerator at same time.)

Step 2. Confirm the temperature of the A/T oil temp sensor is 50-60 C (122-140F) with the GDS.

Step 3. Shift the select lever slowly from P to D then D to P and repeat once more at idle. Leave in each position for at least 2 seconds.

Step 4. Lift the vehicle then remove the oil level check plug from the front side of the transmission case (see first diagram above)

Step 5. (note vehicle must be at a level state) If the oil flows out of the overflow (level check) plug in a thin steady stream then the oil level is correct. If excess oil flows out in a thick stream you have an excess fluid level condition. If no oil flows out you have a shortage situation and need to add additional fluid.

Step 6. Once the level is correct tighten the overflow/level check plug and then re-install the eyebolt on the filler opening. Torque to (4.9 - 5.9 NM (0.5 - 0.6 kgfm, 3.6 - 4.3 lb-ft)

Step 7. Clean up any fluid on painted surfaces in the engine bay as fluid is corrosive to paint.

 

Followed the instructions above and they were spot on. Only thing I could have used that I couldn't find was the size of the drain plug. It's 15/16. At least on mine. 2014 STX/Rallye 2.4L. My socket set stops at 7/8. Which, by the way, is the size of the fill plug.

 

Place a suitable container under the transaxle.
Remove the drain plug (1).

Install the drain plug after all fluid has drained. Tighten to specification (30 ft. lbs.).


The correct fill procedure is to first remove the plug from the fluid level check port located on top of the transaxle housing above the differential, before attempting to pour fluid into the transaxle.

Remove the fill plug from the vent pod located on the front of the valve body pan.

Insert a suitable funnel into the vent pod on the front of the valve body pan.
Slowly pour 4 L (4.3 qt.) of specified fluid into the funnel while watching the fill hole for spill over.
Start the engine and allow it to idle in park.
Pour 1 L (1.05 qt.) into the transaxle and install the fill plug. Tighten to specification.
With engine still running in park, raise the vehicle and check the fluid level.

NOTE: Special Tool Dipstick 10323A Fluid level Indicator and a Scan-tool are required to accurately measure the fluid level in the 6F24 Automatic Transaxle

Checking the fluid level in the 6F24 Automatic Transaxle is to measure the distance from the upper lip of the fluid level check port, located on top of the transaxle housing above the differential, down to the surface of the fluid. Tool 10323A fluid level indicator is marked in 5 mm increments with the base of the handle at 140 mm and the lower tip at “0”. The engine must be running at idle with the transaxle in park and the vehicle hoisted in a level position.

Connect a Scan Tool to the Diagnostic Connector under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
Navigate to a screen to display transaxle fluid temperature.
Start the engine and allow it to run at idle with the transaxle in Park.
Verify that the fluid temperature is above 50 °C.
Insert tool Dipstick 10323A (2) into the fluid level check port (3) and allow the handle of the tool to rest on the flat surface of the transaxle housing (1) around the check port.
Remove the tool from the check port, keeping the handle above the tip so the level reading remains accurate.
Note the increment on the shaft of the tool where the fluid left a mark.
Based on the temperature of the fluid and the measurement on the tool, refer to the table to determine the proper level. Add or siphon fluid to achieve the specified fluid level.

Install the plug into the fluid level check port. Tighten to specification (30 ft lbs).


68171869AA 1 gallon

68171866AA 1 quart

 

I'm nearly at 60,000 miles and will be changing out my own fluid. Do I really need to pay the dealer price or is there a commercial alternative? O'Reilly's website says to use Valvoline MaxLife synthetic in my 6F24. Is that suitable?

BTW the part numbers for the OEM fluid have been superseded:

68171869AB (Gallon)
68171866AB (Quart)

 

Google SP-IV. There seems to be other possibilities since both Kia and Hyundai specify the same type.

 

I used the MaxLife. If you refer to their chart it meets the same standard as the Kia/Hyundai SP IV. 2 months, 3k miles and no issues!

 

Hi Fuels or anyone else,

I recently had the transmission fluid changed in my Dart two weeks ago. For the guy who worked on my car, I read through Fuels' steps above. Following step three, I shifted gears as requested. Unfortunately, since there was no mention of turning off the car, the mechanic proceeded onto step four with the car running and the "oil level check plug" unplugged. Transmission fluid spewed out and when slowed down to a trickle, he had me turn off the car.

Any suggestions, I believe that while there's more transmission fluid than before the fluid change, but I've got this nagging feeling that there's much less than the 5L required???


Peter

 

Do you have the tool to check fluid level? CTA1017 is available on eBay for less than the Mopar Essntial listed tool.

21 - Transmission and Transfer Case / Automatic - 6F24 / FLUID / Standard Procedures

Fluid Level Check

NOTE: It is not necessary to check the fluid level in the 6F24 Automatic Transaxle unless there are shifting issues and/or has evidence of a transaxle fluid leak.

NOTE: Special Tool Dipstick 10323A Fluid level Indicator (1) and a Scan-tool are required to accurately measure the fluid level (4) in the 6F24 Automatic Transaxle (2).

Checking the fluid level in the 6F24 Automatic Transaxle (2) is to measure the distance from the upper lip of the fluid level check port, located on top of the transaxle housing above the differential, down to the surface of the fluid (4). Tool 10323A fluid level indicator is marked in 5 mm increments with the base of the handle at 140 mm and the lower tip at “0”. The engine must be running at idle with the transaxle in park and the vehicle hoisted in a level position.

1.Connect a Scan Tool to the Diagnostic Connector under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

2.Navigate to a screen to display transaxle fluid temperature.

3.Start the engine and allow it to run at idle with the transaxle in Park.

4.Verify that the fluid temperature is above 50 °C.

5.Raise the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting/Standard Procedure) on a suitable hoist that will keep the vehicle in a level position, front-to-rear and side-to-side.

6.Remove the belly pan (Refer to 13 - Frame and Bumpers/Under Body Protection/BELLY PAN/Removal) to gain access to the fluid level check port (3) located on top of the transaxle housing above the differential (1).

7.Remove the plug from the fluid level check port.

8.Insert tool Dipstick 10323A (2) into the fluid level check port (3) and allow the handle of the tool to rest on the flat surface of the transaxle housing (1) around the check port.


9.Remove the tool from the check port, keeping the handle above the tip so the level reading remains accurate.

10.Note the increment on the shaft of the tool where the fluid left a witness mark.

11.Based on the temperature of the fluid and the measurement on the tool, refer to the table to determine the proper level.


12.Install the plug into the fluid level check port. Tighten to specification.

13.Install the belly pan (Refer to 13 - Frame and Bumpers/Under Body Protection/BELLY PAN/Installation) .

14.Lower vehicle.

 

Hi alpinegreenneon,

Thanks for your reply. My vehicle has over 100,000 miles, so it was felt to have the transmission fluid checked / changed. The car has been running fine, with no issues with the transmission.

When the drain plug was removed, not much fluid came out, and the little bit that did, was dark! So yes, there was the need to do a light flush and put some new transmission fluid in.

What I'm worried about, is that the transmission not getting the 5 L of recommended transmission fluid. I purchased six bottles, one to run through, the other five to fill the transmission fluid chamber.

One bottle got used for the flush. Three more were used, but with the fluid level check valve open and the engine running, I estimate that a good 1.5 L spewed out. The mechanic who had never worked on a Dart before, some how figured that the transmission fluid level was good, and so capped the fluid level check port. Two bottles were returned.

So it there a delema, sure looks like it!!!

Tonight I went and picked up two bottles and a funnel, and spent like 10 minutes pouring them in at a snail's pace. The car's transmission appears to be running smoother! I think I'll take the car to a reputable transmission shop to figure out how short the fluid level is. I'd like to keep the car another year or two.

So, my question is, that when the transmission level check plug is out, the car should be off?


Peter

 

Yes, the engine should not be running when you check the level. When cars used to have a dipstick, it was customary to check trans fluid levels with the engine running after shifting through the gears. It's what mechanics are used to, but with the level plug so low, if the engine is running, it will spew out fluid. You could try to check the level yourself. The tool is not expensive and if you are handy, you can improvise one yourself. There is a you tube video about replacing the trans fluid on a Jeep with the 6F24 trans. He used a screwdriver that he made the marks on. It's not good to use too much trans fluid as it can cause aeration. You want to check the level soon.
On eBay search for CTA1017, it's the correct tool.
Here is the you tube link: