[youngsmith53]

"better to have and not need, than need and not have"

I hate running to the store for a single fitting, too.

Especially when it comes to doing something there is no documentation on out there in the googleverse. I do have a question for you @DeyemeRacing ...

I was thinking when it comes time to do the side mounts (ATX & Side Engine) with being an automatic, would it be more beneficial to run a FIRM mount on the ATX side and a FLEX mount on the engine side. Just was an idea I had when I was driving to work on my commute this morning, and didn't know if anyone has tried/ran that set up at all. I figured the FIRM would keep the ATX and automatic in check, but keeping FLEX on the engine side just because we all know the stock mounts are horrible.

Thoughts? or am I out of my mind... (I do currently have a migraine, lol)

 

[Bullfrog]

Im pretty sure i read in the threads that if you do firm all the way around your going to have a teeth rattling experience. as much as our stock engine mounts suck, i think it would be a bit much to run firms on a DD all the way around. looking forward to your write up for the weekend of transmission cooler install. lots o pics!

 

[youngsmith53]

Im pretty sure i read in the threads that if you do firm all the way around your going to have a teeth rattling experience. as much as our stock engine mounts suck, i think it would be a bit much to run firms on a DD all the way around. looking forward to your write up for the weekend of transmission cooler install. lots o pics!

Yeah, that is why I don't want to do firm the whole way, I was looking at it as more of a practical application with how the transmission will interact with the mount and what not. Figured for an automatic application to have FIRM on that side would be more beneficial than FLEX. But then on the other side of the engine getting FLEX to upgrade. Like I said I have a migraine so I am probably not making sense, but it sounds right in my head.

I have lots of pics planned out as well as my list of goodies to do and how I want to handle it all... I will be starting as soon as the kiddos get to bed on Thursday night.

 

[DeyemeRacing]

Both of the weight-bearing mounts (the engine and trans side mounts) are much closer to the rotational axis than the rear mount, which is mean to act as a roll stopper or torque strut (keeping the drivetrain from rotating on it's axis). We have FIRM in the rear and FLEX sides in our own project car, and the combo does a great job of ensuring no missed shifts (a problem you won't have in an auto as in a stick) and wheel hop.

 

[youngsmith53]

Both of the weight-bearing mounts (the engine and trans side mounts) are much closer to the rotational axis than the rear mount, which is mean to act as a roll stopper or torque strut (keeping the drivetrain from rotating on it's axis). We have FIRM in the rear and FLEX sides in our own project car, and the combo does a great job of ensuring no missed shifts (a problem you won't have in an auto as in a stick) and wheel hop.

@DeyemeRacing ...That's why you get paid the big bucks, and I ask off the wall questions when I have a migraine.

 

[Bullfrog]

Hey youngsmith53, check out my new post on Injen CAI... im curious how many people are going to go look at their intake from my finding.
http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-dart-tweakers-anonymous/21554-if-you-own-injen-cai-check.html


When is your OBD2 interface showing up?

 

[youngsmith53]

Hey youngsmith53, check out my new post on Injen CAI... im curious how many people are going to go look at their intake from my finding.
http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-dart-tweakers-anonymous/21554-if-you-own-injen-cai-check.html

I did check that out, I inspected that during last months "mod weekend" luckily the grommet is still looking good on my end, so I am happy about that.

When is your OBD2 interface showing up?

The OBD2 adapter should be showing up by the weekend *knock on wood*. I made the mistake of pre-ordering a CD (yes, people still buy physcial music CD's) on Amazon the same time I got the OBD2 so it pushed out the shipping by a few days.

I really want to have it in place for the Monday (10/13 & Wife's Birthday) morning commute. If (and a BIG if) it could show the BEFORE & AFTER of the break in period of the Spectrum adapter, I would be overly ecstatic to have some data to show people that the Spectrum just isn't "snake oil"....

 

[Deadpool]

Both of the weight-bearing mounts (the engine and trans side mounts) are much closer to the rotational axis than the rear mount, which is mean to act as a roll stopper or torque strut (keeping the drivetrain from rotating on it's axis). We have FIRM in the rear and FLEX sides in our own project car, and the combo does a great job of ensuring no missed shifts (a problem you won't have in an auto as in a stick) and wheel hop.

tax times a comming. tax times a comming, here take my cash.

 

[youngsmith53]

tax times a comming. tax times a comming, here take my cash.

Between FLEX side mounts and the (as mentioned) suspension set-up... the money is going to come in one day and out the same day. If I could swap my hyper-blacks for lightweight 16's then we're really talkin'

 

[corey04si]

I like this thread i want a dart more and more now.

 

[youngsmith53]

I like this thread i want a dart more and more now.

Thanks for the kind words, hope you enjoy your Dart once you get one.

 

[Bullfrog]

Have you though of wrapping the stock headers for heat control? I donno if containing that heat on the stock cat would melt the inside of the cat or not.

posted more stats, have to do some comparing to the stock stats i have as a 'baseline' to see what the average over ambiant is.

 

[youngsmith53]

Have you though of wrapping the stock headers for heat control? I donno if containing that heat on the stock cat would melt the inside of the cat or not.

As in the Road Race 2.0L and 2.4L Header Blanket? I have thought about it and I am still trying to find way to combat the heat and everything going on with the engine bay. I have some ideas for insulating the Injen CAI to keep the air as cold as it can... but as far as the header, I haven't thought much because I thought one was going to come out and I didn't want to spend money on the 2.0 header blanket if I'm not going to use it. But you gave me some ideas for looking up information today, so I will report back.

I am going to try @viperman96 's idea he gave to @starscream5000 about removing the trap door for the oil drain hoping that it will aid in the cooling of the engine compartment. (see post #379 on http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dod...dodge-dart-builds/15608-viperman96-s-rallye-r-t-build-thread-38.html#post337604 ) I figured I already have to take off the Aero plate to install the FIRM rear mount, might as well try that as well...

posted more stats, have to do some comparing to the stock stats i have as a 'baseline' to see what the average over ambiant is.

I have seen the stats, great work as always. I will let you know when the OBD2 adapter ships/shows up

 

[Bullfrog]

As in the Road Race 2.0L and 2.4L Header Blanket? I have thought about it and I am still trying to find way to combat the heat and everything going on with the engine bay. I have some ideas for insulating the Injen CAI to keep the air as cold as it can... but as far as the header, I haven't thought much because I thought one was going to come out and I didn't want to spend money on the 2.0 header blanket if I'm not going to use it. But you gave me some ideas for looking up information today, so I will report back.

Yeah i was thinknig about the header blanket as well. in all honesty i ran a megan racing equal lenth header in my 2001 tiburon for exactly 4 weeks... and then i could not take it anymore. WAY to loud. so im not really keen on headers anymore unless its a race car. If your not going to use the header blanket ill buy it from you! But im just curious about wrapping the factory header that has a built in cat converter right there. will wrapping it with something like DEI's header wrap cook the internals of the factory cat out? I dont *THINK* the car has a factory exaust gas temp sensor for tourqe to latch on to. I want to get in under the heat sheild and take a look around and see if its feasable. the stock headers are pretty easy to remove ( you learn that from working under the car putting your transmission mount in that the stock exaust is pretty easy to remove from the header). Most applications ive seen for the DEI wrap are pipes not wrapping a cat converter in with it.

There is also the gold foil wrap and thermal lace up boots for the CAI. those are ideas ive though of as well.

I am going to try @viperman96 's idea he gave to @starscream5000 about removing the trap door for the oil drain hoping that it will aid in the cooling of the engine compartment. (see post #379 on http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dod...dodge-dart-builds/15608-viperman96-s-rallye-r-t-build-thread-38.html#post337604 ) I figured I already have to take off the Aero plate to install the FIRM rear mount, might as well try that as well...

I have seen the stats, great work as always. I will let you know when the OBD2 adapter ships/shows up

Since i bought this car i aimed to make it last as long as possible and enjoy that the bottom part of the engine is cradled off. Especialy in PA with road salt! i always wanted to create a boat like bottom for my cars to keep the rust off them... i dont want to introduce an avenue for dirt. That being said i was going to run some sort of brake duct to the SRI install and make a box at one point, i wonder if taking air from the fog inserts (no fogs here) and having an inline air filter (like a cabin filter or something) and porting fresh air onto the engine at places such as the oil filter and exaust if that would give the same results as taking the oil filter cover off..

.02 cents

 

[Bullfrog]

Uncle google is telling me wrapping a factory cat converter is bad juju...

 

[youngsmith53]

Yeah i was thinking about the header blanket as well. in all honesty i ran a megan racing equal length header in my 2001 tiburon for exactly 4 weeks... and then i could not take it anymore. WAY to loud. so I'm not really keen on headers anymore unless its a race car. If your not going to use the header blanket ill buy it from you! But I'm just curious about wrapping the factory header that has a built in cat converter right there. will wrapping it with something like DEI's header wrap cook the internals of the factory cat out? I don't *THINK* the car has a factory exhaust gas temp sensor for torque to latch on to. I want to get in under the heat shield and take a look around and see if its feasible. the stock headers are pretty easy to remove ( you learn that from working under the car putting your transmission mount in that the stock exhaust is pretty easy to remove from the header). Most applications I've seen for the DEI wrap are pipes not wrapping a cat converter in with it.

As far as wrapping the headers w/ cat installed, I don't have experience with that, but google was enlightening. Taken from a post from another forum: "Yes. It will get too hot and destroy itself from the inside out."

As well as...

"While using a heat-resistant wrap can keep temps down in the interior, the problem with wraps will arise when they cool off and condensation forms. That condensation will eventually rust away the outer skin of the cat.

Same with headers; a wrap will trap condensation and rust will eventually start. Of course it depends on the climate of a region; using a header wrap in dry climates such as Southern California probably won't hurt anything. Use a wrap in a region with lots of rain or snow where salt is used on roads and that can be a big problem."

So with that being said... I for one might check into something else, a blanket the potential is there, wrapping a header no...

There is also the gold foil wrap and thermal lace up boots for the CAI. those are ideas I've though of as well.

I have thought about this a lot over the months and might just take the plunge. I have wanted to do a "double wrap" so to speak on the Injen CAI. First I would wrap in the following: DEI Reflect-A-Cool and the cover that with DEI Air Tube Cover Kits I figured that would solve a lot of issues with heat dissipation as well as potential with condensation and what not...

The reflect-a-cool is not the gold, but the silver, cheaper, but still does the same and just as effective. This would be wrapped all over the outside of the CAI tubing, and then cut and cover seal with Velcro with the tube kit... in theory sounds effective.

Since i bought this car i aimed to make it last as long as possible and enjoy that the bottom part of the engine is cradled off. Especially in PA with road salt! i always wanted to create a boat like bottom for my cars to keep the rust off them... i don't want to introduce an avenue for dirt. That being said i was going to run some sort of brake duct to the SRI install and make a box at one point, i wonder if taking air from the fog inserts (no fogs here) and having an inline air filter (like a cabin filter or something) and porting fresh air onto the engine at places such as the oil filter and exaust if that would give the same results as taking the oil filter cover off..

.02 cents

I ran without the Aero plate for a week in August, didn't see any changes in the MPG's decreasing at all, but I also didn't want to run without the plate on for the same Pennsylvania reasons. So, I figured I would at least try the ideas thrown out in the other build threads to get a best of both worlds plan in place for air movement in the engine bay.

As far as the Extra Air idea...I like that as well and I would try that, exact same set up (but I have fogs) if I had the tools at my disposal. Cut out a little hole around the fog bezel, grate it up, filter it up and tube it up... instant RAM air. There is a nice write up on the forums around here somewhere...

 

[youngsmith53]

So I took Aya home on 10/11/2013... I just hit 14k this morning 10/08/2014 on the morning commute.

14k blissful miles

 

[Bullfrog]

As far as wrapping the headers w/ cat installed, I don't have experience with that, but google was enlightening. Taken from a post from another forum: "Yes. It will get too hot and destroy itself from the inside out."

As well as...

"While using a heat-resistant wrap can keep temps down in the interior, the problem with wraps will arise when they cool off and condensation forms. That condensation will eventually rust away the outer skin of the cat.

Same with headers; a wrap will trap condensation and rust will eventually start. Of course it depends on the climate of a region; using a header wrap in dry climates such as Southern California probably won't hurt anything. Use a wrap in a region with lots of rain or snow where salt is used on roads and that can be a big problem."

Yeah same thing that i read. unless you build headers and put the cat farther down stream then doing anything to the stock one is bad. Makes me wonder if even adding the header blanket is a good idea long term. I like your ideas for wrapping the intake and now that your going to have data logging ability that should be a plus so you can tell if mods are helping.

Another heat soak source is the oil pan. the exhaust runs RIGHT under it...and i never liked having the exhaust come out the front and under the engine.

I ran without the Aero plate for a week in August, didn't see any changes in the MPG's decreasing at all, but I also didn't want to run without the plate on for the same Pennsylvania reasons. So, I figured I would at least try the ideas thrown out in the other build threads to get a best of both worlds plan in place for air movement in the engine bay.

As far as the RAM Air idea...I like that as well and I would try that, exact same set up (but I have fogs) if I had the tools at my disposal. Cut out a little hole around the fog bezel, grate it up, filter it up and tube it up... instant RAM air. There is a nice write up on the forums around here somewhere...

Even if you have fog lights there is the area next to them that can be dremmeled out and a hose attached to run duct work for cooling. the filter idea was so not to have a completely dirty engine bay since its fairly sealed now.

 

[youngsmith53]

Yeah same thing that i read. unless you build headers and put the cat farther down stream then doing anything to the stock one is bad. Makes me wonder if even adding the header blanket is a good idea long term. I like your ideas for wrapping the intake and now that your going to have data logging ability that should be a plus so you can tell if mods are helping.

Another heat soak source is the oil pan. the exhaust runs RIGHT under it...and i never liked having the exhaust come out the front and under the engine.

Road Race Header Blanket would be A LOT better than a wrap, wrap is so restrictive. As far as the wrapping of the intake, once I have a baseline set up for that, I will be purchasing those items mentioned, any little bit helps.

Even if you have fog lights there is the area next to them that can be dremmeled out and a hose attached to run duct work for cooling. the filter idea was so not to have a completely dirty engine bay since its fairly sealed now.

I have an idea for the extra air, I just haven't gotten to the point yet... I need to save some ideas for spring. Maybe that will be the first mod weekend of the spring... potential cross-hair delete & Functional RAM Air.

 

[jsblanch]

I have an idea for the RAM Air, I just haven't gotten to the point yet... I need to save some ideas for spring. Maybe that will be the first mod weekend of the spring... potential cross-hair delete & Functional RAM Air.

Ram air is usually used to force air into the intake at slightly higher pressure than it would normally get sucked in by the engine. If you want to reduce engine bay temps, your best bet is probably hood vents to suck the hot air out. I'm pretty sure you already discussed this somewhere in this thread, though.