Check and clean the battery terminals and connectors. Corrosion can prevent a good connection. Check the accessory belt for tightness. If the belt is loose, the alternator pulley may not be spinning correctly. Check the fuses on the battery positive terminal:

If you have a multimeter, compare voltage at the alternator stud and at the battery.

Finally check your oil. 2.4 engines can have excessive oil consumption. If the oil level gets low enough, you can experience the engine dying for apparently no reason. The multiair works by hydraulic pressure. Without oil in the head, valves stop going up and down and the engine dies.

 

Other than what he said, it sounds like you have an electrical 'leak' somewhere, causing it to drain. The 5mins of driving though, sounds like it might be your belt tensioner (maybe) or alternator being the issue. (Alternator isn't charging the battery as it should.)

 

having a similar issue with my gf's 2014. i replaced the alternator and now when i boost it if i remove the cables immediately the car runs for about 60 seconds with all electronics working but flickering then just completely dies. if i leave the cables on for a few minutes the cars dies as soon as they are removed. when the car is running (with booster cables on) i have disconnected the alternator lead from the battery and definitely have 12.7 volts coming from the alternator. i have checked all the fuses under the hood as well. any ideas ??

i have also confirmed the 200A alternator fuse is good and belt is tight.

 

You should be getting more than 13 volts if the battery is low. Could be a relay that is not holding. You could try swapping the Run relay. Do you have any codes? There can be pending codes that do not set a CEL. Consider the android alfaOBD app with the OBDLinkMX bluetooth scanner. Here are some things from the FSM that you might look at.

08 - Electrical / 8F - Engine Systems / Charging / Description

DESCRIPTION

The charging system consists of:

•Generator
•Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) circuitry within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
•Ignition switch (refer to the Ignition System section for information)
•Battery (refer to the Battery section for information)
•Inlet Air Temperature (calculated battery temperature) (If equipped)
•Voltmeter (refer to the Instrument Cluster section for information if equipped)
•Wiring harness and connections (refer to the Wiring section for information)
•Accessory drive belt (refer to the Cooling section for more information)

To perform a complete test of the charging system, refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures service manual and the scan tool. Perform the following inspections before attaching the scan tool.

1.Inspect the battery condition. Refer to the Battery section (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8F - Engine Systems/Battery System - Diagnosis and Testing) for procedures.

2.Inspect condition of battery cable terminals, battery posts, connections at engine block, starter solenoid and relay. They should be clean and tight. Repair as required.

3.Inspect all fuses in the fuseblock for tightness in receptacles. They should be properly installed and tight. Repair or replace as required.

4.Inspect generator mounting bolts for tightness. Replace or tighten bolts if required. Refer to the Generator Removal/Installation section of this group for torque specifications (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8F - Engine Systems/Charging - Specifications) .

5.Inspect accessory drive belt condition and tension. Tighten or replace belt as required.

6.Inspect automatic belt tensioner (if equipped). Refer to the Cooling System for more information.

7.Inspect generator electrical connections at generator field, battery output, and ground terminal (if equipped). Also check generator ground wire connection at engine (if equipped). They should all be clean and tight. Repair as required.



TEST CONDITIONS

1. Engine RPM : 2500 RPM (ENGINE HOT)
2. Voltage Output : 13.0 – 16.0 V

View attachment 114010

 

i just dropped the battery off to have it tested after speaking with the local dodge service shop the suggest that may be the issue. ill see if i can get my hands on a run relay as well. ill check all the things you suggested. the electrical diagram will help lots thanks.

could i swap t07 with t08 just test the relay ?

 

could i swap t07 with t08 just test the relay ?

Yes, that was what I had in mind when I said to swap the relay.

 

Your powertrain warranty on a 2015 is 100,000 miles. May not cover your electrical issues however.

 

any news on this? Just replaced my alternator 4 months ago, battery light came on this morning and the car died on the way to work. Wondering if it could be a relay or PCM?

 

The guy in the other thread said it was due to a bad ground attached to a painted surface.

https://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/do...art-mechanical-problems/62728-point-i-don-t-know-what-else-do-2.html#post754830