[jkj2000]

I would think the latter since the mileage did change over those five years, just not much. Maybe the owner took pandemic lockdowns a little too seriously, I don't know. I will be asking of course.
Aside from putting OBDLink on this before and during a test drive, are there any places I should look at carefully in a 'use it or lose it' sense that would be problematic on a Dart?

 

[alpinegreenneon]

I'm thinking of the most common problems that I read about here. Look for excessive vibration or grinding noises from worn motor mounts especially on turns and acceleration. Look at the exhaust. If it's very white and sweet smelling, it has overheated and the head is warped. Look at the oil on the dipstick also for signs of coolant mixing or shiny metal fragments. Turn on all the lights. When you turn the key to ON, all the test lights on the cluster should light up and that is normal. Any lights that stay on could be a problem. Cycle through the message EVIC and make sure the odometer isn't blinking. Original headlights are halogen on an SE, not LED. There should be access panels for the headlights in the front wheel well splash shields. If they are missing, you will have lighting problems.The original headlight modules should have the dodge logo on clear plastic in front of the bulb. Look for the belly pan and front bumper closeout panel. Those get torn out fairly easily since the Dart sits so low in front. Those are 17 inch wheels so there may be road rash. The positive battery terminal module should be tight and no corrosion, same for the negative cable. Look for signs of coolant leaks at all the hose connections. Dart coolant should be a pink or purple color and the residue from a leak will be crusty pink. Look at the front struts and rear shocks for leaking.
If you come across something you are not sure of, post here. I don't wear my cell phone but I do check fairly often.

 

[jkj2000]

Thanks Case. I have an OBDLink MX+ with the dodge / chrysler add-ons for additional diagnostics beyond the basics. Do you have any suggestions on what additional functions I should monitor while driving?
Also, how hard is it to remove the plastic engine cover, so as to get a better look at the valve cover and check for leaks around there?

 

[alpinegreenneon]

The first time you have it plugged in, scan all the modules. Then before you shut it off scan again. If you have alfaOBD, it will be able to read air bag, ABS codes, and network codes. Write any code numbers down. Post the numbers. If you have the Torque app, you can monitor the O2 sensors.
Removing the engine cover requires some tools because the engine cover has the air tube integrated into it. So getting it off the throttle body and the bellows from the air filter assembly is necessary. The connector for the throttle body will not stay with the engine cover like it's supposed to and that clamp isn't one that you can loosen. The throttle body clamp can be loosened but it will end up staying on the throttle body. Then when you put everything back together, you have to fight with getting the rubber connector back on the engine cover with the nonadjustable clamp. The only thing you would see if you removed it is if the harness is chaffed, but that would likely give codes. Probably best just to rely on the scanner instead of pulling off the engine cover. I have had mine off several times and no matter how I lube the throttle body side of the rubber, it never separates there.

 

[jkj2000]

I bought the car. I'll post pics tomorrow but the seller is a Dodge dealer parts technician who orders for the techs.

He couldn't have been nicer and the reason for the low mileage is the car was brought in for a routine service in 2020 and never picked up. He's not sure what the story is exactly --something to do with storage fees piling up-- but the car sat in the backlot service hangar for five years, and was moved around once a month or so to make room for other cars. It was literally a hangar; open in front but covered on top and two or three sides, so the elements weren't that bad. It's also a California car so has never seen salty roads.

The dealership finally took ownership and they discussed what to do with the car. This guy had the longest commute of the repair shop crew so he bought it, it was dusty but in really good cosmetic shape.

The dealership techs did the coolant and brake flush, fuel system service / flush, brake pads and rotors, air filter, serpentine belt and spark plugs. Also has four new tires, the dealership techs said he could get by on the existing ones if you pump them up enough but he didn't like how they felt.

He's selling it because he's being transfered to a related dealership much closer to home, plus he has an SUV for the kids and a 2009 Honda civic he can't bear to part with. Parking in his neighborhood is a bit of a challenge and he has a shared driveway with a neighbor so he doesn't have room in back.

I was welcome to look under the hood as long as I liked and it appeared really good in there for an 11 year old car. Couldn't see any leaks before or after the test drive, hoses were in fine shape, no evidence of chewed up wiring from any mouse nests, very clean.

Under the car it was the same story, very nice for something from 2014. The exhaust looked night and day different from the one with the bashed pipe from last week.

OBDLink showed no issues while driving or any engine codes, and between us trying to find a CA smog place open on a Saturday it was a two hour test drive on city streets and freeways with no problems that I could detect, no hesitation or loud shifts or engine hiccups, mysterious revs etc. Just drove nice. I'd like a little more giddyup when punching it on a freeway merge but it's fine. I kept looking for some shoe to drop, somewhere, but it never did.

He knew about the 2.4L multiair issues with oil consumption and brick starvation if the car sits for a lengthy time. Said the techs see it all the time. Also knew the 1.4L dual clutch has issues too.

He said the engine mounts should be monitored, they get spongy, and said a transmission flush before 60k was reccomended as well. I'll do a flush soon, and could use advice on whether just replacing the fluid is ok or more is needed.

The only cosmetic issues are some minor scuffs at the bottom of the front bumper and a couple of 1/2" cracks on the rear bumper about 2/3rds up, nothing structural. Should be no problem sanding them and putting some putty on there and blending in if I want to. I did see a skid plate up front with some expected skid marks.

The only paint issue is a rust bubble about the size of a fingernail on the right front corner of the hood, otherwise the paint is smooth and white with no clearcoat issues.

Interior is surprisingly clean, a couple of small cracks in the leatherette door rests but that's about it. Seats are firm with no tears and the dealership threw in some rubber 'Dart' floormats up front and a larger one in the trunk. Headliner and pillars could use a quick steam cleaning but are fine.

He was open and honest and I had no problem giving him $5k for it. Having said that I'm sure the engine will catch fire in a few days as the brakes give out but it'll be fun while it lasts. Thanks go to you guys for advising me on the process and what to look for.

I am interested in a rearview camera, I've been told by you guys that I can't easily plop in a Dart one in that dash so an OEM suggestion is welcome.

 

[alpinegreenneon]

Dart hoods are aluminum so that isn't rust. A transmission fluid change should be just a fluid change and not a machine flush. There is a drain plug. Measure exactly what comes out and put exactly that much back in. There are you tube videos for the powertech transmission.
Enjoy your Dart.

 

[Midnight Rider]

My MA mechanic told me that, while the hoods are indeed aluminum, they can still corrode. He bought a 2015 Dart from CarMax that had a little corrosion on the hood that he had fixed at a body shop.

 

[alpinegreenneon]

Aluminum corrosion is a real thing and it's common on the leading edge of a hood. It is slower than rust but it will creep under the paint and eventually become unsightly. Some manufacturers will repair it if it happens under warranty. Don't expect Stellantis to do anything on your out of warranty Dart hood. Not every body shop will fix it correctly. Get an estimate, read reviews for the shop, get it fixed.

 

[jkj2000]

I double checked and its definitely some sort of corrosion. Not much, but I'll probably sand it down and put some fiberglass filler on it, then blend things in. I owe some pics.

One thing I noticed is the turn signals work fine, however, if I set the signal and do a very slight turn it won't always go back on its own. And when I flip it off the other side starts blinking. And back and forth. It's as if it's difficult to cancel the signal manually. Doesn't always happen, mostly when I make a gentle turn?

Case, you also mentioned being able to cut a couple of keys for me, lollipop style?

 

[alpinegreenneon]

Case, you also mentioned being able to cut a couple of keys for me, lollipop style?

Click your avatar upper right, scroll down to Conversations, then click start a conversation. Other forums call it a PM or private message. No one else sees it. Send a pic of the cuts on the emergency key in the fob.

 

[Nohj]

I have an almost 200k mile 1.4l running strong. I was so excited to chime in on this one and get you into a 1.4 lol
I feel like I need to dump my experience somewhere. I'll try to avoid 1.4 specific stuff though.

That first car OP posted had self tapping screws in the wheel well, you did good not buying it lol the belly pan and crushed exhaust shielding screamed patched up accident. I'd bet the driver side control arm is brand spanking new.

The limited wheels are rusting white, aluminum oxidizes white, my hood also started oxidizing where the color is almost completely faded white and same as you I have rust bumpies under the paint towards the lower front of the hood. The rest of the car is faded "Footer Orange". Not quite header. The car came with the factory stripes, which when removed did not help the paint last, those spots were what went first actually.
The car lived in snow in Jersey, offroads in the mountains, and now at the beach in Florida with salty air. The underside is clean except for the usual culprit. Very good chasis these Fiat Panda's apparently? But there's a dime sized rust patch under the driver side door from trusting just anybody with a lift. Walk through a parking lot and see how many times bad lift techs didn't realize the pinch weld wasn't longer than the side skirt for example.

I think you're describing issues with the clock spring when it comes to how the turn signal is released but I'm not as knowledgable as the forum regulars. My clock spring was replaced around 100k miles because it needed it though so that may be around when people see issues. I don't know about the electronic power steering, but I've seen a subaru clock spring go bad and cause overexension, breaking the pinion. A master tech once told me these rack and pinions can self adjust a smidgen to correct alignment. My toe is off right now so I don't know what that guy was talking about lol

I had my key cut and programmed this year from a small safe and locksmith shop in TN for $90 bucks while passing through. More rural the cheaper. Doesn't say Dodge on it though but now I have working buttons.

I have tried a few motor mounts for this car including a 50 dollar one on amazon which was basically the same quality as the DEA / MARMON RIDE CONTROL from Rockauto. The best by far hands down is Deyeme transmission "rear" mount without a doubt, and OEM for the other two. Anything else really does "break-in" with a month or two and before you know it your motor is clunking forward again when you let off the gas. I worry about how strong 3 Deyeme mounts will be but if these mounts ever go bad again Im just going to do it.

Wheel bearings have kinda sucked. I've only done one (rear) bearing in 80k miles. But all the bearings have been replaced at least once lol they are all OReilly's Precision brand for the warranty which has not been bad. I put spacers on 10k miles ago, so I'm overdue for a wheel bearing I can feel it.

The most worrysome thing about this car to me and which isn't 1.4 exclusive is the Uconnect touchscreen, the auto-dimming rear view mirrors and the multiair brick. All expensive for some reason unless somethings changed.

My interior center console has the usual tear and so does the driver side door panel armrest. I dye'd it black with a vinyl kit and it did help.

I don't know about anyone else but my 1.4 can pool water from condensation in the cabin air filter area and cause mold on the filter. I could have also waited too long to replace it.


My first drain and fill of the manual trans was Royal Purple GearMax, no change noticed. Ran that for ~60k miles. Recently I got out about 1.5q of the GearMax after I accidentally removed my CV and spilled a good half quart, and put in about 1.8q of Synchromax and it was noticably more comfortable to shift actually, which I previously thought was just a forum hallucination lol cause there was no change with GearMax.

My OEM air hoses look TERRIBLE. Still holding wonderfully though. Coolant hoses were changed at 100k as preventative but my current ones look middle aged. I'm only telling you this so you get an idea how long these things last.

I'm a believer in PEA. I used the Berryman Intake Valve and Combustion Chamber Cleaner and it changed everything. I was about ready to pull the injectors to clean them but figured why not hit it with PEA from both ends,Redline in the fuel system and through the PCV intake hose the foaming PEA. Boy, the entire motors low speed characteristics changed. The car was smoother forever and my fuel issue was gone. I put a catch can to prevent gunk build up but I don't think 2.4l have that problem with the pcv. I also pulled the MAP and it was completely clean already from the stuff. It hadnt been cleaned in easily 80k miles, so I expected something.
I don't do any oil additives either. but I can say a LITTLE bit of Marvels Mystery and Seafoam did not hurt the motor and neither will ATF. I don't think it's necessary and my oil comes out pretty clean still. Somewhere someone said they had Multiair codes and they used liquid moly engine flush and it all went away. It's possible to unclog the tiny passages in the multiair, but then again it can unclog the big passages in the rest of the motor which then can get to the little passages. Just thought you should know and wouldn't mind other's opinion on this one cause it's mighty tempting to do everything and anything I can in terms of preventative maintenance.

My car had the original struts, shocks, control arms, tie rods, sway bar links front and rear, intercooler until ~192-196k miles. Some of it was a few years sitting but the mileage and use is still the same. The only thing that was necessary to replace of those has been the rear shocks since adding spacers caused them to show their wear on the tire, and one of the strut mounts bearings was opening up so it clanked a little sometimes. It's like how you can boil a frog in water. You don't notice the steering has been looser and not as tight at highway speeds, but it doesn't make any noise, nothing is pryable, and nothing is tore or leaking.

I tried running the car into the ground as a daily and the car did see some offroading too, years living off-grid and some sprited trail driving ("lifetime" clutch on stock power I was told). I gotta give this car props, they're just not for the average driver being an early turbo motor already and ontop of that Multiair which is innovative and all but it's one less thing I don't have to worry about inside the motor of a Honda 1.5t which also has variable valve timing for both I/E.

Very similar conditions this car was put through also was put through a farm vehicle Subaru, with a little more "farm" vehicle if you know what I mean, and the ball joint wore through the knuckle on that and created a larger bore in the same timeframe the Dart was being dailied in and out of logging trails. The point is, the car was abused a bit. I've let it sit in the sun for a few years so the paint is destroyed and I've cleaned out acorns from crevices multiple times but it always fired right up. Only had to prime the multiair brick when it was removed for the headgasket. The electronics and interior survived all that, the paint did not, the suspension parts all survived too. The CV axle is OEM and looks new when I inspected the splines, and I expected more metal shavings in the transmission after all the performance additions too, was less than the first drain and fill. I went from leaky intercooler stock to phase 2 w/ EC. You're going to love the Dart, but youre going to be livid when your e-brake keeps sticking and going bad within 6 months of a brand new caliper change.. I carry a wheel chuck just incase, which does suck if I wasn't into working on this car.

If I didn't mention oil, 3k miles. The 'ol oil change at 3k mile trick has gotten many vehicles to 300k alone turbo or non-turbo. My whole family does this and it's always paid off, it just happened to be necessary for Multiair's lol But seriously it helps in many ways.




This rant is off topic but I'm super passionate about the whole, "should I buy another car" thing. I've had this conversation at least 20 times this year so I'm gonna just word vomit to nobody in particular lol Most people do think it's easier to just not deal with a problem and get another car but most people, are idiots, and myself included; That's why I'm not usually posting here

I have replaced A LOT in this and tuned + perf parts for cheaper than a years worth of a $200 car payment, which is extremely rare to find these days, and I'm confident I'll get another good run out of this car/motor now, the new car average is over 500 a month I think now not counting insurance which goes up with a higher "valued" vehicle. Unless you want the same issues in another vehicle a year later. (The car would have to be cheap and thus older and as a bonus if you're considering buying out of a Dart or any car you already own, you will not know anything about it's previous oil change history or what parts are replaced. This is a gross exaggeration but if you replace 8 out of 10 parts, you have a pretty good idea that parts 9 and 10 will go bad next, if you're afraid of the car you have cause you just sank a few thousand into it, why sink a few thousand for the right to continually pay a few hundred for the mystery lotto on which part ? out of 10 is gonna cause problems next. Diagnosing is way easier when you know what's been replaced over the lifetime of the vehicle cause it's not always obvious.
Seriously seen too many people change everything but the transmission, only to get out of a rust free car with all electronics working, because they "recently put thousands into it and scared what's next". Now they bought a car of similar age for 13k, and a year later, oh no, issues.. Oh no, routine timing belt/chain maintainence wasn't done at 100k? Oil changes were done at the recommended intervals of 10k.. Oh no, the ball joint too? It hurts to love a friend and want to help them when they won't help themselves. Ignorance, bad thing. Work on car, don't work on car, but at least learn about car. Obviously this doesn't apply to any of us on the forums lol But I do know these people so Im venting. They're either really great to buy a car from, or really really bad cause all those parts were economy.

With the way the economy and value seems to be inflating, it's the era of the DIY again. A good range of torque wrenches and $180 on sale amazon Kobalt XTR can break loose or just break any bolt on this car. I actually keep them in the car with a 2 ton jack in place of the emergency jack. And thanks to alpinegreenneon posting virtually all the procedures on the forums, we have everything we need to get the most out of them if you ask me. I've also done a headgasket change @ ~120k miles and reseated valves, etc, that's was 75 bucks at a machine shop at the time. The 1.4 heads are light and we picked up the motor seperate the transmission with two people. Headgasket is a pain though. My biggest downtimes were a week for headgasket and timing belt waiting on the machine shop, and week for clutch + calipers because it was done on gravel with jacks. So obviously you can't always DIY everything when you depend on the car, I'm just trying to be inspiring.


I know this was a lot but more people need to buy Darts. Then we all can be a little happier knowing we're not putting $$ into it in vain 😭 Also if Eurocompulsion makes anything for the 2.4l its most definitely worth it.

 

[jkj2000]

Thanks for the detailed writeup. So regarding the motor mounts, you're saying Mopar on both sides and Deyeme on the bottom is the way to go?
Does anyone make a decent OEM mount?
I don't know what happened to that first Dart with the crushed pipe. Carfax showed an accident a couple of years ago, they went up on a curb, single car accident, but if that's in Carfax wouldn't the insurance have paid for everything, including exhaust, and not just a new fender etc?
Thanks for the tip on the door rest, dyeing it. Are there other solutions too, patching or other? Can you pull just the door rest from a junkyard Dart or is it part of the entire inner door panel?
I've got two lollipop keys coming courtesy of alpinegreen neon. However, my sister will want a full fob, buttons and all.. A locksmith can do that for ~90 where you're at?

 

[alpinegreenneon]

Procedure for pulling a door panel is in this thread post 37:

https://www.dodge-dart.org/threads/door-lock-dilemma.63066/page-2