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Nothing to be concerned about in the back except that there is no rear swaybar which we knew from the build sheet. The view from the front doesn't show much and if possible try to get a view under the engine. Is the belly pan and closeout panel in place?

The belly pan:
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The closeout panel:

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Good questions. I don't believe they are.

I grabbed a selfie stick and took some more video, this time with the extension stretched. Apologies if it's not ideal; it's tight quarters there.

I did see what looks like a crushed exhaust pipe? See this vid around the 30 second mark:



Also, there's some shielding that looks bent up near the oil filter? Around the 35 second mark:



I suspect some bad road rash at some point-- not sure exactly how bad or how much $$ to fix it. Those were the two issues I noticed.

Here are some other vids from the front passenger side and front and rear driver's side. Did the best I could while flying blind. As always, thoughts welcome and thanks:



 
Screw clamp on the bent up exhaust pipe won't last. Definitely missing the belly pan. Look up those parts on Mopar online parts sites, not cheap.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Screw clamp on the bent up exhaust pipe won't last. Definitely missing the belly pan. Look up those parts on Mopar online parts sites, not cheap.
Looks like $700 for the exhaust for an auto-transmission, a one-piece from Mopar:


Belly pan seems to be going for $100 on most sites, a little more. Not sure what the deal is with the shielding around the oil filter, something went wrong there, and was it wrong enough that the filter was sheared off?

Unless they want to knock $2k off there's a gif meme of me slowly walking backward.
 
Curious how much shipping would be for that one piece exhaust? If the belly pan pan is missing so is the close out panel.
 
The original exhaust system on my Neon lasted 26 years in the salt/rust belt. If the original Dart exhaust is anywhere close to the Neon exhaust, I would get the whole thing factory new. Patching things in will just be more possible failure points. No idea how long it takes to install. Sort of depends on how things go apart. Exhaust fasteners can be stubborn.
 
I asked my MA mechanic (the guy who did all of the work on my Dart) to look at your videos. Here is what he had to say:

"i agree with alpinegreenneon, the car needs a full exhaust. The flex pipe section after the cat also needs to be replaced. I also noticed that gash in the oil pan. Would recommend getting that replaced as the scrape is already beginning to rust. Those oil pans rust fast once it begins."
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I asked my MA mechanic (the guy who did all of the work on my Dart) to look at your videos. Here is what he had to say:

"i agree with alpinegreenneon, the car needs a full exhaust. The flex pipe section after the cat also needs to be replaced. I also noticed that gash in the oil pan. Would recommend getting that replaced as the scrape is already beginning to rust. Those oil pans rust fast once it begins."
Hey, thanks for double-checking with your mechanic and giving his feedback. I don't suppose you could ask him how long it would take / $$ he would charge for installing that full exhaust, assuming the customer bought one from Mopar and dropped it off for him?
 
Hey, thanks for double-checking with your mechanic and giving his feedback. I don't suppose you could ask him how long it would take / $$ he would charge for installing that full exhaust, assuming the customer bought one from Mopar and dropped it off for him?
I see that the website for that Dart is out of California so I assume that you live close by. The mechanic that I quoted is in Massachusetts so you should probably find someone closer to you to do the work.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
I see that the website for that Dart is out of California so I assume that you live close by. The mechanic that I quoted is in Massachusetts so you should probably find someone closer to you to do the work.
Yeah, I wouldn't be asking him to do it (long way to travel), just wanted to get a ballpark from him.
 
Yeah, I wouldn't be asking him to do it (long way to travel), just wanted to get a ballpark from him.
"If it were to run through the shop, it would end up being about $200 in labor with tax and miscellaneous bill up charges. He would have to pay full retail price on the parts, and he would not be allowed to supply his own parts. Book time for the rear exhaust section is .5. Book time for the flex pipe section is .9."
 
Replacing the exhaust pipe/muffler is something you can do yourself. If the cross under section that attaches to the exhaust manifold is intact and not crushed, it should be even easier. There are rubber isolators that hold the pipe and muffler to the body. Those rubber isolators should be removed by hand, not tools and silicone lube will help. The only problem could be the bolts/nuts that hold the sections together. Soaking with PbBlaster may allow them to be removed without breaking but perhaps order the fasteners as well. Use 4 jackstands to hold the vehicle as high as your floor jack will allow.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Replacing the exhaust pipe/muffler is something you can do yourself. If the cross under section that attaches to the exhaust manifold is intact and not crushed, it should be even easier. There are rubber isolators that hold the pipe and muffler to the body. Those rubber isolators should be removed by hand, not tools and silicone lube will help. The only problem could be the bolts/nuts that hold the sections together. Soaking with PbBlaster may allow them to be removed without breaking but perhaps order the fasteners as well. Use 4 jackstands to hold the vehicle as high as your floor jack will allow.
Thanks Case. I figured removing the old exhaust would the toughest part, those bolts like to get seized up.

In the meantime, I'm in preliminary discussions with the owner of this vehicle. 2014 2.0L. 52K miles, says it's in great shape, asking $5k. We'll see, I'm supposed to meet him on Saturday:

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Discussion starter · #36 ·
"If it were to run through the shop, it would end up being about $200 in labor with tax and miscellaneous bill up charges. He would have to pay full retail price on the parts, and he would not be allowed to supply his own parts. Book time for the rear exhaust section is .5. Book time for the flex pipe section is .9."
Thanks for asking him!
 
Perhaps you can get the VIN so you can see the build sheet before you see it? When you look at it Saturday, bring your selfie stick.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Perhaps you can get the VIN so you can see the build sheet before you see it? When you look at it Saturday, bring your selfie stick.
I got the VIN, the build sheet looks to match what is in the description. I also got a carfax via digisail and it also checks out, clean title, however there is one strange thing going on.
The car got an inspection and service at a Chrysler dealership in 2020 with 48,540 miles on the odometer. The next item on the carfax list was passing smog inspection in July 2025 with 48,790 miles on it.
250 miles in 5 years? It has 52k on the odometer now and the current owner had a service done on it, coolant flush, new serpentine belt, new spark plugs, new tires, but I'll have to ask how he came across it in July and what the story was. I'm all for low mileage but just sitting around for five years.....
 
Mileage can be changed with alfaOBD. Or it's actual and had something wrong that it would not start and got parked.
I'm not sure anyone sells a perfectly good used car anymore. Fixing a problem car can be expensive and selling it is the easier solution with the proceeds going to something else. I've bought my share of used cars but there's almost nothing I can't fix myself.
 
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