All information you need for coolant can be found here.. The Coolant Post... Prestone AF2100. Now with that out of the way, there is no real way of knowing what coolant you are running unless you have a sample ran through some testing. Question is did you buy your Dart new or used? If you did buy it new, you can definitely go back to the dealership as (more then likely) you're under warranty and this will assure you know what coolant is running in the engine. Either way, I believe you'll still be safe as it's still Mopar OAT just a different shade or color as you can see in the below pictograph:

There are multiple different shades of coolant for OAT as well as the other brands. If you're not experiencing ill effects on proper engine cooling then you more than likely are running the proper coolant, just a different color than you are used to.

 

I bought it used in May 2016 with 19k miles on it. I also should add that I purchased it from a Nissan dealership, so that is why I wonder if they may have put in the wrong coolant, or if the previous owner may have put in the wrong coolant. Just wanna be sure that a) I have the correct coolant in currently and b) if it's not, then I'll need to flush it and c) need to know what coolant I should be running.

 

a) I have the correct coolant in currently

You need to go back to the dealership and verify if they did maintenance on the cooling system or added coolant. If they cannot give you an answer or the run around...

b) if it's not, then I'll need to flush it

You're best bet is to flush it and pour in what you know it needs to run. This way you are guaran-damn-teed to know you are running the proper coolant for the engine and have a peace of mind.

c) need to know what coolant I should be running.

The coolant you can run and should run is either the OEM coolant from Mopar OR Prestone AF2100. The above link the initial thread reply will lead you to the build thread post of the coolant and why it is the correct one to use (as well as cheaper).

Hopefully the dealership doesn't give you the run around and provides some answers so you don't have to go through the process of a coolant flush. Either way, let us know how you make out.

 

There is no reason that the original coolant was supposed to be changed unless there was a major problem. The correct coolant from the factory was rated for 10 years or 150,000 miles and was purple, part number 68163848AB MS-12106. If it really bothers you and you want the correct stuff, just get it replaced. The coolant reservoir is pressurized and the typical radiator cap you are used to seeing is not there. The threaded cap on the reservoir is a pressure cap. A lot of newer cars have this type of system and it requires a special procedure and tool to refill the system without getting an air pocket. If you want to do this yourself, let me know and I will post the procedure.
I have never been a fan of any universal compatible fluids like coolant or trans fluids. There's all kinds of claims out there, but do you want to be the one that finds out the hard way that your Dart is the exception?

What the dealer will charge you for the replacement could be more than what the special tool and the Mopar coolant would cost you if you did it yourself.

 

There's all kinds of claims out there, but do you want to be the one that finds out the hard way that your Dart is the exception?.

Considering there have been thousands of miles on the Prestone AF2100 brand documented on the Dart platform, I am fairly certain that it is more than capable of seamlessly meshing within the system. I understand the OEM mindset, however, if something is going to work just as well as OEM and is more readily available I will choose that over OEM any day. I know opinions are like noses (everyone's got one), so take it for what you will.

 

Unfortunately, I purchased the vehicle while I was home in Ohio; however, I am currently stationed in Florida. I'll try to contact them, and see if I can get an answer. I don't want to pay $100 to get it flushed if I don't need to, as my temp is generally around 200, which appears to be standard. I just don't like not knowing what's currently in it, when I'd like to top it off.

 

I'm running valvoline Zerex Dex-cool antifreeze in mine. Since I had a 650miles journey to do and the dealership were closed, I had to go to a local part store and buy some. Even though they wasn't sure, they called their valvoline rep and after a bit of arguing with him since it wasn't written on the bottle if it meets ms-12106 and the coolant is orange, he have been able to mail another spec sheet with proof that it meet the ms-12106. Since then I have run maybe 6k miles with that and no problem so far.

 

The procedure I referred to is for when you drain all the coolant. Adding small amounts of coolant and letting it bubble up any small amounts of air is fine. The tool referred to in the procedure is just one of several that are available. Because of the pressurized reservoir, draining and refilling is different from what you may be used to in the past. The tool creates a vacuum in the cooling system and sucks in the replacement coolant with no air pockets. I always use the concentrate and distilled water to make my own 50-50 mixture. If I were replacing questionable coolant, I would drain the old stuff, fill it once with distilled water, then drain that. Then I would use a slightly more than 50% coolant mixture to make up for the inevitable pint of two of water that will not drain.

Here is the procedure from the FSM:

CAUTION:
Failure to purge air from the cooling system can result in an overheating condition and severe engine damage.

NOTE:
The preferred method to remove air from the cooling system is to use Tool, UView Airlift™ Cooling System Refill 399-550000 , or equivalent,.

Evacuating or purging air from the cooling system involves the use of a pressurized air operated vacuum generator. The vacuum created allows for a quick and complete coolant refilling while removing any airlocks present in the system components.

NOTE:
To avoid damage to the cooling system, ensure that no component would be susceptible to damage when a vacuum is drawn on the system.

WARNING:
ANTIFREEZE IS AN ETHYLENE GLYCOL BASE COOLANT AND IS HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED OR INHALED. IF SWALLOWED, DRINK TWO GLASSES OF WATER AND INDUCE VOMITING. IF INHALED, MOVE TO FRESH AIR AREA. SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION IMMEDIATELY. DO NOT STORE IN OPEN OR UNMARKED CONTAINERS. WASH SKIN AND CLOTHING THOROUGHLY AFTER COMING IN CONTACT WITH ETHYLENE GLYCOL. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. DISPOSE OF GLYCOL BASED COOLANT PROPERLY. CONTACT YOUR DEALER OR GOVERNMENT AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COLLECTION CENTER IN YOUR AREA. DO NOT OPEN A COOLING SYSTEM WHEN THE ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE OR HOT UNDER PRESSURE; PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT. AVOID RADIATOR COOLING FAN WHEN ENGINE COMPARTMENT RELATED SERVICE IS PERFORMED; PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.

WARNING:
WEAR APPROPRIATE EYE AND HAND PROTECTION WHEN PERFORMING THIS PROCEDURE.

NOTE:
The service area where this procedure is performed should have a minimum shop air requirement of 80 PSI (5.5 bar) and should be equipped with an air dryer system.

NOTE:
For best results, the radiator should be empty. The vehicle's heater control should be set to the heat position (ignition may need to be turned to the on position but do not start the engine).

1.Refer to the service equipment tool's operating manual for specific assembly steps.

2.Choose an appropriate adapter cone that will fit the vehicle's cooling system filler neck.

3.Attach the adapter cone (2) to the vacuum gauge (1).

4.Make sure the vacuum generator/venturi ball valve (3) is closed and attach an airline hose (2) (minimum shop air requirement of 80 PSI/5.5 bar) to the vacuum generator/venturi (1).

5. Position the adapter cone/vacuum gauge assembly into the filler neck. Ensure that the adapter cone is sealed properly.

6.Connect the vacuum generator/venturi (2) to the positioned adapter cone/vacuum gauge assembly (1).

7.Open the vacuum generator/venturi ball valve.

NOTE:
Do not bump or move the assembly as it may result in loss of vacuum.

8.Let the system run until the vacuum gauge shows a good vacuum through the cooling system. Refer to the tool's operating manual for appropriate pressure readings.

NOTE:
If a strong vacuum is being created in the system, it is normal to see the radiator hoses collapse.

9.Close the vacuum generator/venturi ball valve.

10.Disconnect the vacuum generator/venturi and airline (1) from the adapter cone/vacuum gauge assembly (2).

11.Wait approximately 20 seconds, if the pressure readings do not move, the system has no leaks. If the pressure readings move, a leak could be present in the system. Check for leaks and repeat the procedure.

12.Place the tool's suction hose into the coolant's container.

NOTE:
Ensure there is a sufficient amount of coolant, mixed to the required strength/protection level available for use. For best results and to assist the refilling procedure, place the coolant container at the same height as the filler neck. Always draw more coolant than required. If the coolant level is too low, it will pull air into the cooling system which could result in airlocks within the system.

13.Connect the tool's suction hose (1) to the adapter cone/vacuum gauge assembly (2).

NOTE: View typical

14.Open the suction hose's ball valve to begin filling the cooling system.

15.When the vacuum gauge reads zero, the system is filled.

NOTE:
If filling through a pressurized coolant bottle, stop filling when the proper level is reached.

16.Close the suction hose's ball valve and remove the suction hose from the adapter cone/vacuum gauge assembly.

17.Remove the adaptor cone/vacuum gauge assembly from the filler neck.

18.Install the cap on the filler neck.

19.Start and run the engine
with the heater control unit in the HEAT position.
20.After the engine has reached normal operating temperature, shut the engine off and allow it to cool. When the engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn into the radiator.

21.Add coolant to the pressurized coolant bottle or reservoir tank as necessary. Only add coolant to the container when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion. Add necessary coolant to raise container level to the COLD MINIMUM mark after each cool down period.

22.Once the appropriate coolant level is achieved, install the cap on the filler neck.

 

is it me or does that just sound like a royal PITA, just to flush your system...

 

It's just something new to get used to. I suggest you read some reviews on Amazon from people that have bought the UView tool and the similar tools from other brands. I was skeptical at first as well.