Please read my signature... you NEED replace the boost solenoid.

 

2013 Darts have an issue with the internal wastegate poppet. It's loose by design and can cause turbo flutter and failure.

 

This is true too... You'll have to look into both.

Sent using a rotary phone

 

So I think it's the turbo. Is there a DIY on how to replace the turbo anywhere? I checked here and on youtube but I can't seem to find one. Anyone have any idea how difficult or time consuming it is? Experience wise...I've replaced a clutch and a timing belt by myself before...the clutch was a pain...I'm not sure I'm looking at getting into anything that time consuming though. I'm hoping an hour or two max...this is a friend's dart that I'm helping out on, so I dun wanna spend my whole weekend fixing it. Thanks for any info you guys can bestow.

 

I would recommend checking the solenoid first... The turbo is expensive and takes a decent amount of time to replace... @alpinegreenneon should be able to post the FSM directions on how to replace it for you!

Sent using a rotary phone

 

In addition to it , mine over 3500rpm start cutting off , is more than likely that car would be on 6000/7000 but is only half way ...and code is PO299 .
You had same ?

 

There are multiple people who have the same thing... The P0299 code is for low boost. It is a very common problem with the 2013 models. There were issues with both the boost solenoid and the turbos wastegate.

Sent using a rotary phone

 

Maybe just me but maybe it's time for a big turbo swap?

 

24.Remove the coolant return tube banjo bolt (1) and remove the turbocharger coolant return tube. Discard the banjo bolt washers.

25.Remove the coolant supply tube banjo bolt (1) and position the tube aside. Discard the banjo bolt washers.

26.Remove the screws (1a) and remove the engine oil cooler heat shields (1b).

CAUTION:
The oil supply and return lines MUST be replaced whenever the lines are loosened or removed.

27.Remove the oil supply tube banjo bolt (1) and remove the oil supply tube from the oil filter housing.

28.Remove the oil supply tube banjo bolt (1) and remove the turbocharger oil supply tube. The oil supply and return tubes must be replaced. The banjo bolts and banjo bolt washers must be replaced.

29.Remove the bolts (1) from the oil return tube at the turbocharger.

30.Remove the bolt (2) from the oil return tube at the crankcase.

31.Remove the banjo bolt (3) and remove the turbocharger oil return tube. The oil supply and return tubes must be replaced. The banjo bolts and banjo bolt washers must be replaced.

32.Remove the nuts (1) from the exhaust manifold heat shield (2).

33.Remove the nut (1) and remove the exhaust manifold heat shield (2).

NOTE:
The turbocharger has been removed for clarity.

34.Remove and discard the nuts (1) and remove the bracket.

35.Remove and discard the remaining nuts (2a) and remove the exhaust manifold (2b).

36.Remove the turbocharger gasket/heat shield (1).

37.Remove and discard the nine exhaust manifold studs.

NOTE:
The exhaust manifold nuts and studs must be replaced. The washers can be reused. The exhaust manifold gasket and the turbocharger to manifold gasket must be replaced.

 

38.With the exhaust manifold removed, invert the manifold and turbocharger as an assembly. Remove and discard the four nuts (1).

NOTE:
The turbocharger mounting nuts must be replaced.

39.Lift the manifold up and off of the turbocharger. Remove and discard the gasket.

40.If replacing the turbocharger, remove the bolts (1) and surge valve (3). It will be necessary to install the surge valve on the replacement turbocharger.

 

Thank you @alpinegreenneon

Sent using a rotary phone

 

I have Removed bad / misinformation -

It is in fact the Boost Control Solenoid getting stuck.
Upon restarting the vehicle it would cure the problem because of the valve being electronic, it too would also reset from the position it was frozen or stuck in.

 

Whoa...
Alright let me start off by saying that the code P0299 is faulted by the 2013 PCM / ECU.
The fault is not caused by the wastegate control / Boost solenoid.
I personally have diagnosed this from resetting the PCM while driving just after the code was tripped.
What I discovered was that full boost was restored and the care drove like normal.

The guy who run Euro Compulsion has also vouched for this, as he works with tuning them.
If you dont want to deal with that code ever again or see it ever again, there is company that remaps the PCMs and part of his package he completely removes the code that the fault is related to!


The 2013 1.4 Turbo PCM is all sorts of screwed up, and there are even features missing such as neutral learning, which is a requirement to preform specific and important calibrations required for timing.

I will post a list of all PCM updates available that also includes a list for the Dart 1.4, you can then reference the Technical Service Bulletin to see what the update modifies on the PCM, or what problems are corrected from the update.
Then go to the dealer and ask them to flash the updates, they will most likely charge you fee.

Where did you get this information? It has been shown time and time again that the boost solenoid and wastegate have been the problem causing this code... yes sometimes the code will be intermittent (or a short in the system, like a shock or jolt of electricity) and of course resetting the PCM will fix it... BUT if there is a wastegate that is incorrectly adjusted or the boost solenoid has blown out (Which is EXTREMELY common for the 2013) then OP will have to start there. Resetting the PCM will literally do nothing to fix a mechanical issue. That same person who works at Eurocompulsion (Greg) has also posted a wonderful thread here about how one goes about checking the wastegate adjustment to find if yours has been incorrectly adjusted from the factory. It was shown that the correct pressure for the arm to START moving is 6PSI and should be completely actuated or open at 10PSI. HERE is the link to that thread.

Now if you were to find that the actuator doesnt move or moves too much at 6PSI you will need to figure out which way to load the arm for the actuator because you will have your wastegate either stuck open too long causing a low boost code (P0299) or closed too long causing an over boost code (P0234). Now if your having just those codes no other issues, then the PCM/ECU may be to blame or even the boost solenoid. But most people run into not only these codes but the limp mode that the car gets stuck in afterwards, which is a fail safe to help prevent "catastrophic engine failure".

It has also been found that the poppet in the wastegate on the 2013s is faulty itself causing a bad seal within the exhaust side of the turbocharger not allowing the wastegate to close and having a constant boost leak... when this is found then the WHOLE turbocharger unit HAS to be replaced.

What you have posted may be correct in some instances but isnt always correct. We get that in your case that resetting the PCM worked... Which means that neither of the big things (boost Solenoid or Wastegate) were broken or messed up on your car. But not everyone is going to be as lucky. The OP needs to know all avenues that he will have to go down if one thing doesnt work.

 

Hey where did you find your boost solenoid?

 

As in where it is physically in the engine bay? Or where to order a new one?

Sent using a rotary phone

 

What does this information have to do with the question I asked

Removed - due to misinformation - see post # 16

 

Im not here to answer "your" questions.

I cant help that you have bad information tagged in your signature.

Figure it out..
There is no evidence that the boost control solenoid is the problem.

Your directing people to buy an overpriced solenoid when they have a overboost CEL.

Present it from your personal experience not a thread where someone walks you through a wastegate actuator adjustment that does not fix the problem.

I have "figured it out" my close buddy @yodamusic has a 2013 dart 1.4t that ended up having the P0299 code.

And when he took it into the dealership they swapped his turbo out...

Guess what happened next?

The same P0299 code came back... So he took it back and asked about the boost solenoid after reading on this very forum that it is the main cause of this issue. They then swapped the boost solenoid.

Guess what happened next?

That's right, you guessed it... He has seen that code till this day.

Then later down the road there was evidence brought forward that the solenoid is not the only thing to blame but also the wastegate poppet valve and the wastegate actuator arm being misloaded from the factory...

Sometimes altering the preload on the arm would fix the problem but mostly but sometimes it wouldn't due to the poppet valve being messed up. The only way to fix that was to completely replace the turbo as we have in internal wastegate.

You don't have to help my signature ( which has completely accurate information) but what you can help is not spreading misinformation to people here that don't know any better and are just looking for help just because the issue you had was solved by restarting your engine.

What you ran into was nothing more than an electrical fault caused by a simple spike through the system... They happen all the time. If you didn't know this, there are 3 styles of CEL. A current fault, historic fault or catastrophic failure.

Odds are you saw a current fault, or a simple surge in the electrical system. Which means there was a fault set off and it went away and by restarting your engine everything was cleared.

The historic fault is a problem that is found by the system that is saved in the system and keeps happening even after restarting the engine.

The catastrophic failure is when the CEL starts blinking which mean stop what you're doing, shut your engine off and get it to a mechanic or dealership as soon as you can. Obviously, the reason I say that is because no one but authorized dodge mechanics or dealerships have the correct tools and computer systems to correctly fix these issues.



Sent using a rotary phone

 

Good discussions!

 

Just in case sometime down the road I do need a new boost control Solenoid.
I have purchased an almost identical Boost Control Solenoid for a Chevy Cruze which I plan to test.
Very slight design difference, and can be purchased under $35 which is on par with the global price.

It bolts directly in place of the factory solenoid.

For those of you that are wanting to give this a try.
You can compare to my earlier photos of our Boost Control Solenoid in this thread.
Part #:
Chevy / AC Delco 55574902
https://www.carid.com/acdelco/gm-or...rcooler-bypass-valve-mpn-55574902.html?singleid=929899078&url=13354174#features
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-55574902-Equipment-Turbocharger-Intercooler/dp/B007QB8K9E

 

A current fault would effect every component that is apart of that circuit.
The fault code remained upon startup
You are not accounting for how the Solenoid is controlled which is via PCM.
The fault is provoked upon continuous load in 6th gear with an increase in elevation, or driving up a hill in 6th gear.
Upon which, the PCM has what seems to be a calculation fault with the mapping tables, and simply says fuck it, and throws the CEL, and viola no more boost and we have a P0299 code.
We then bitch slap the PCM into a coma, by cutting all power while moving, and then hit with a bucket of Ice cold water via popping the clutch. AND BAM!!
We have full boost again, the P0299 code remain in fault memory, but the problem is gone.. That is until the PCM cant do the math any more.

If the Boost Control Solenoid was in fact the problem, I am more than sure FCA would not be replacing Turbos that cost more than 10 times what they pay for the Solenoid.
The only reason they were replacing the Turbos was because dealerships are not equipped with people certified to work on the Turbos.
GM had the same exact problem with the Cruze.
GM later sent out TSB advising not to replace the Turbos under Warranty and merely adjust the Wastegate.
Thus I am completely aware of the Wastegate actuator adjustment needing to be preformed, as I did that years ago.


Just in case sometime down the road I do need a new boost control Solenoid.
I have purchased an almost identical Boost Control Solenoid for a Chevy Cruze which I plan to test.
Very slight design difference, and can be purchased under $35 which is on par with the global price.
I just need to get what appears to be a Bosch EV1 plug.
It bolts directly in place of the factory solenoid on the passenger side motor mount too.

View attachment 114946

For those of you that are wanting to give this a try.
You can compare to my earlier photos of our Boost Control Solenoid in this thread.
Part #:
Chevy / AC Delco 55574902
https://www.carid.com/acdelco/gm-or...rcooler-bypass-valve-mpn-55574902.html?singleid=929899078&url=13354174#features
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-55574902-Equipment-Turbocharger-Intercooler/dp/B007QB8K9E

Bosch EV1 Connector
https://www.google.com/search?num=5...M_enUS797US797&biw=1920&bih=949&ei=DJSnW6nXHYK18APXkoLQBw&q=bosch+ev1+connector

It has already been found by other members here that an alternate boost solenoid doesnt work on this vehicle.

You obviously have not done your research through this site because it seems to me like you are about 2 years behind on information.

Like I said before, the 2 problems are the boost solenoid and turbo wastegate ( not the actuator) if they find that the internal wastegate is messed up you have to replace the whole turbo. If not then replacing the boost solenoid will fix the issue. It has been tried and proven numerous times. What you think doesn't make sense doesn't have to... It's cheaper for fca to replace mass produced turbos for some darts then replace every single turbo on every single dart turbo they made.

Sent using a rotary phone

 

Hi sorry for the late response. Where did you purchase yours from.

 

Rock Auto.

 

GOOD NEWS
The Chevy / AC Delco Boost Control Solenoid Part #55574902

WORKS!
Holds boost perfectly too!

So there you have it a less than $35 Solution.

This requires you to change out the connector,
or
You can do what I did and simply solder 2 wires directly to the 2 pins of the Solenoid,
and then fill the connector socket on the solenoid with hot glue , RTV, or silicone.





It is Polar just like the Solenoid our car cam with so when you attach the

 

For anyone stumbling upon this thread from here on out, I found our exact Boost Solenoid for almost $100 less than Mopar charges us for it - https://www.carparts-onlineshop.com...ineshop.com/vacuum-relay-valve-fgp-fiat-jeep-oem-04627297ab-pierburg-7-02308-04

It ships from the Netherlands so you'll have a to wait a little longer to get it, but saving 100 bucks was well worth it to me

 

Looks like it even has the Mopar part number. Nice find.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BHYP312J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Boost Control Solenoid Valve 1 Pcs 04627297AB Turbo Boost Control Solenoid Valve Replacement for Dodge Dart 2013 replacement for Jeep Renegade 2015-2017