[RchrdCranium]

Window Tint​

Price: $200
Tint %: 15% on side and rear windows
Comments: I love the look and privacy, but for driving, the 15% is too dark. If you do not have LED reverse lights or reverse camera, backing up in the dark is a pain. If I had the option to have them redone, I would have gone with a 20% shade. Will most likely be getting my front windshield done 50% in the near future!
Installation: Done professionally by AA Auto Tinting.

LED Reverse lights, plate lights, interior lights, Error Free!​

Price/Parts: Total: $66.59 - Price subject to change

LED Reverse Lights $22.99
50w Load Resistor $6.89
T10/194 Canbus LED $9.99
Non Canbus 194 LED Trunk/License Plate Light $9.88 x2
T10/194 LED License Plate load Resistor $6.96

Specialty tool options: Fastener Remover Kit $14.73

Comments: Installation was very easy. Had the help of @Cntrollerfanboy for the proper pairing of LEDS + resistors. Huge fan of LEDS, so much brighter inside the car and much easier to see with the LED reverse lights through 15% window tint. The reverse camera no longer changes to night mode, so the picture is always crystal clear even at night. I also have a 90% tinted license plate cover, the LEDs make it much more visible during night.

Installation:

LED REVERSE LIGHTS ERROR FREE

There are two options to this install. While I had success with one, I didn't with the other.

1. You want to pull off the carpet covering the trunk. (Pretty self explanatory. I can add pics upon request.)

2. Find the reverse lights wiring harness

3. Use 1 T-Taps to tap into the Orange/White (Positive) wire and one end of the 50w resistor. (Second option is to use 2 taps, one for the Orange/White (positive) and one for the adjacent Black wire (Negative). This removes the need to ground the other end to the trunk.) The 2 T-tap option did not work for me/other people with 2016s.

**Note: This took me a few tries, the jackets on the 50w resistor was difficult to penetrate with the T-Tap. If you get errors after install, confirm that the t-tap penetrated the jacket. I had to use a razor blade and carefully cut the jacket to expose the wire enough for the t-tap to come in contact with it.**

4. Attach the other end of the 50w Resistor to the bolt on the trunk arm.

5. Install the LED reverse lights, then start the car and confirm no errors are received.

**Note: Ziptie or tape the resistors to the trunk. They can become very hot when in use.**

Here is a comparison of the two.

Canbus Interior LED Install

**Note: Using Non-Canbus LEDs will produce a slight afterglow when off.**

1. Push in the rear most side of the lens then slide a flat too into the forward most side. Gently pry the forward most side successfully removing the clear lens.

2. If you can remove the old bulb without removing the chrome backing do that now. If you cannot, remove the backing like so.

3. Reinstall the chrome backing and insert the new Canbus LED. (Confirm that it was properly installed by opening the door/turning on the map lights.)

4. Then reinstall the clear lens.

**Note: For the rear dome light, the process is the same. However, there is a small plunger that needs to be pressed when reinserting the flat end of the clear lens. Failure to do so with break the plunger and require the headliner to be removed in order to fix the issue. (pics upon request)**

 

[RchrdCranium]

NON CANBUS 194 TRUNK LIGHT INSTALL

1. Locate the trunk light, and use a flat too to remove it.

2. Once removed install the new Non Canbus bulb and replace it in its original spot.

NON CANBUS 194 + RESISTOR PLATE LIGHT INSTALL

1. Remove the plate light bezel from the rear bumper (easiest when license plate is off.) Using a T16 (I believe) screw driver or an appropriately size flat head.

2. Once removed, pull the lens out and remove the old bulb. Install the 194 resistor then the LED 194 bulb into that.

**Note the final end of the resistor will not fit perfectly into the hole in the lens. I used electrical tape to keep it as centered as possible**

3. Reinstall into the original spot. IF any parts are lost into the rear bumper, you can get a land into the rear bumper from underneath.

 

[RchrdCranium]

Valentine One Radar Detector Review / ROAV Anker Dash Cam Hard Wire Install

Write up put together in coalition with @Shi_Thead


Parts/Price Total: Valentine One Radar

Valentine One Radar - $399 + shipping
Amazon T - Tap Kit - $11.99

Parts/Price Total: ROAV Anker Dashcam

ROAV Anker Dashcam - $69.99
32gb High Endurance SD Card - $22.99
Dashcam Hardwire kit w/ inline fuse - $12.95


After years of drooling and just hearing great things about the V1 (Valentine One), but not wanting to Blow that much money on a radar rather than performance parts. I broke down and bought a Valentine One Radar Detector a little over a week ago! This write-up is how I installed and hard wired my V1 radar, you can also use write-up to hard-wire other applications such as switches, GPS, Dash cam, Cell Phone signal booster, etc...

View attachment 93305

I decided on where I wanted to mount the device before I started anything. Found the spot then had to figured out where I need to splice on to run power. After a few minutes search on the .org I came across another member who had hardwired his V1. <!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: dbtech_usertag_mention -->
@<a href="http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/member.php?u=6207" target="_blank">xzb6np</a>
<!-- END TEMPLATE: dbtech_usertag_mention -->


What you will need
The V1 radar came with a hard wiring kit that included: Tap connector, wire red and black(positive and negative) with a clamp on fuse and a few zip ties wired into a RJ11 jack. and some extra connectors.
You can buy a universal or a tailored hard wire kit for you specific application.
But hey if you feel like Macgyver then head over to your local hardware store and pick up each of the items above!

You will need just a few tools for this job:
T15x4 Screwdriver
Wire cutters and wire crimper (if you are not using a kit)
razor blade



1. Pop open the sun glass holder and remove the two torx bolts with the TX15 Screwdriver.

View attachment 93257

2. Pull down on the lighting assembly and it drops right down.

View attachment 93265

3. Unplug the connector for the lights and set the assembly aside.

View attachment 93273


4. Peel back a bit of the electrical tape wrapped around the wires. This is where I used the razor blade and made a small incision in to the tape so i could peel back. do this so that a wire splice can be used.

View attachment 93281

5. There is two yellow-striped wires that power each of the lights.

View attachment 93289

That is the yellow striped wire I spliced into.

6. Splice the power wire of the detector to one of the yellow wires with your connector.

View attachment 93297

7. Looking up into the opening in the ceiling you will see a third bold holding the frame. Attach your ground wire under that bolt. I put a loop connector on the end of the ground wire and installed the bolt right thru the center.

View attachment 93313

8. The power connector to the detector can be slid right through the headliner out to the windshield. Stuff your extra wire into the ceiling above the liner and put your light assembly back in place.

View attachment 93321

9. Position the detector and plug in and turn on. If all is well it will work. Also turn on all the interior lights to make sure the added power usage does not blow the fuse. (It shouldn't)

**This general installation idea can be used and many different ways not just for a V1 Radar!**



Review

Valentine One Radar Review by @Shi_Thead

I have now have had the V1 for about a month now and drive quite a few miles a day. I am very happy and absolutely love the V1 radar detector. The sensitivity is amazing, yet at times it can be a little annoying (but thats what the volume control is for lol). The radar, when detecting a police officer, gives you AMPLE time to slow down (If you are a speeder). I must say I have been saved a few times on the highway! Over all love the product especially the arrows!!

ROAV Anker Dash Cam C1


I purchased the ROAV Anker Dash cam, because of the size and the Anker company. It is a great product with excellent A/V compared to most dash cams. The location I have it mounted in my car you cannot see it from the driver seat so it does not affect your field of vision. It is sleek and small, and has the ability to wireless transfer videos from the Cam to your phone with the use of the ROAV App. Anker is great to work with, I purchased their first version the (A1) which had a defective battery causing the screen to pop out of the bezel when it swelled. One email and two days later, Anker sent me the newest one the (C1) which has worked beautifully! They have just come out with a GPS version, the C1 Pro, which tracks speeds/locations and plays them on the film itself. I may be purchasing it in the future, which I will then post a review on that. If anyone would like pictures of mounting location/size let me know! I highly recommend this product! Buy it from Amazon, for $20 off the listed price from Roav.

 

[RchrdCranium]

Content to be added.

 

[RchrdCranium]

Sure, I'll put one together and add it! @MJZ

 

[RchrdCranium]

Thank you very much! Did you use the supplied mount or did you purchase a rear view mirror mount?(or some other type of mount)

I'm using the original one they sent me. It's held on by 3m tape and works great plus it's out of the way.