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Clutch Replacement

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42K views 30 replies 15 participants last post by  alpinegreenneon  
#1 ·
Has anyone had to replace their clutch on the 6 speed manual? This is my first manual transmission car and I'm just wondering how long it should last and roughly what it will cost to replace? Just curious to what I should expect in the future. Thanks
 
#3 ·
Around half that, or little less actually. Now if you get a lightweight flywheel at the same time, then yes, it can run a grand. I have owned cars with over 200K miles on the original clutch before and it still wasn't slipping. A lot of the equation for how long will it last depends on how easy you are on the clutch and if you modify the car too much and overpower the pressure plate and clutch disc.
 
#10 · (Edited)
According to allmoparparts.com

2.4 Liter:
Clutch Assembly: $188.37
Disc: $98.87
Flywheel: $643.50

Not sure if this is exactly what you need, but here is a MOPAR link off the MOPAR website:

Clutch Assembly - CLUTCH ASSY, - 05106180AC | Mopar

You should be able to get 100,000 miles out of your clutch unless you abuse it. It does pay to not always drive it like you stole it 24/7 and never do any hard downshifting. I never let my RPM's go above 2500 when downshifting. Also, its always a good idea to take off in 1st gear, never 2nd even if it goes its still hard on the clutch.

I'm gonna assume if you're like me and do about 80-85% highway and the rest city you're clutch will last longer than usual. I can't see highway miles hurting a clutch very much if at all.
 
#14 ·
I'm gonna assume if you're like me and do about 80-85% highway and the rest city you're clutch will last longer than usual. I can't see highway miles hurting a clutch very much if at all.
Highway miles don't wear the clutch. It's only the stop and go driving that wears it since you're constantly engaging and disengaging the disc. The only time you'd wear it down on the highway would be if you were flooring it and overpowering the holding capacity with torque.
 
#17 ·
Through the dealership yes...I think it also depends on whether or not you have the 1.4 Turbo or the 2.0/2.4 Liter N/A engine as it appears like its a different package (at least it shows up differently on MOPAR's website). Of course the dealership is going to markup the price so they make a profit. If you want to try and do it yourself, or know of a shop that will do it I would think it would be significantly cheaper if you can track down the pressure plate and clutch which are found with a web search.
 
#19 ·
That sucks. I'm also wondering how long my clutch will last. I have no idea about how it was treated for the first 19K mi. I do know that I am very easy on my clutch now, but with being a full bolt on's car, and more power being added on the way with the water injection kit, I can't help but to wonder just how much this OEM clutch will take before I seeing issues with it. I'm hoping for at least another year or two outta it, because if I do replace it, it won't be with another stock clutch, that I am sure of....and prices for the upgraded clutches are in the $500+ range, plus the cost of install (which also isn't gonna be fun to do yourself). Likely I will find someone who runs a performance shop who works on fwd a lot to do mine if it comes to that...no way I'd have a dealership do it, I've heard too many outrageous price quotes for labor from them, but still I'm sure it could easily be a grand to do this with a performance clutch kit, nice thing about that is once you put a 6 puck that can handle 400+ lb/ft of torque in, you'll likely never be changing a clutch in your car again....
 
#30 ·
If I may jump in on everyone's discussion here in regards to the clutch replacement.... first let me start with I have the 2013 dart turbo rallye 1.4 . Purchased from dealership Dec 22, 2018 with 96k miles on it. Currently it now has 134k ( I drive ALOT of miles daily for my job). A week ago I was on a long drive home, car was running normal as far as I knew. I was feeling sleeping so went to pull off at a rest stop, just as I was at offramp and breaking to stop, my car made the worst sounds I've ever heard. Was loud grinding noise, clunking and clanging. And felt like the front of my car was dragging on the ground. Was alot of shaking. I stopped immediately and got out to inspect it. Nothing looked abnormal any where. Does anyone have any idea what this could be. I have some saying it's the tranny, some say clutch, even one said waterpump.I had it towed but not to the dealership. I'd rather know what the real issue with is before they load me up with crap the want to make money off me for.