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I had this code a while back as well... What I found is it was accompanied by a code that was "incorrect purge flow" as well.

What I did was bought a new purge solenoid, the one that sits right in front of the ecu. It was about $15 and was real easy to replace!

I found that inside of the original one that I had there was a decent amount of carbon buildup causing the purge valves plunger to not work correctly.

Sometimes, you can get away with cleaning it out with brake cleaner and letting it dry completely before hooking it back up... Other times, like my situation, not as lucky and you need a whole new purge valve.
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Yes! About 2 months ago my CEL came on, took it to Auto Zone and got the code for small EVAP leak.
Light stayed on then was out when I went to work next morning. I had my husband take it in to check it out, and because the light wasn't ON, I got charged the 140 diagnostic. It stayed off until just 2 weeks ago, so I called the dealership again and they set me up an appointment, and said I won't have to pay the diagnosis charge again since it happened within 30 days. (They ran all the tests for it last time.) I asked if it was just a gascap issue, and they weren't sure...yeah..
So, I went and bought a gascap and sure enough, the light went out and has been out since. I cancelled the appointment. So I'm out 140 for a 13 dollar gascap. I was upset about paying for the diagnostic since I have an extended warranty, but apparently this is not covered. I call Chrysler corporate and complained about it plus the fact that this dealership (5*****) dealership insists on overinflating my 34psi tires to 39....I guess I've been lucky mostly with my Dart, I still love it, but future service will take me elsewhere. Sorry for the long post.
 
This CEL can also be triggered by fueling the car with the engine running. If you have the CEL, drive the car for a few days before you waste the $18 on a gas cap. and be sure you turn your car off to add gas.
 
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A new gas cap would be much cheaper that the diagnostic fee but evap codes are not always the gas cap. You can try a new gas cap or it would not be too difficult to follow the evap lines and look for a cracked hose which is the usual problem. Take off the engine cover and look at the evap lines and it just may be obvious. Gas vapor and engine heat deteriorate any rubber hose over time. Did they tell you the exact P code?

Edit: I was going to say to check the vacuum hose routing label on the underside of the hood but when I looked at our Dart, the VECI label is there but does not have a diagram of the vacuum hose routing. When did that change?
I agree. I had the same issue, but my husband is a mechanic. I got a new gas cap from the dealer ($36) as the after market ones don’t work as well. Still having the same issue after a drive cycle and clearing the code. He is going to replace the vacuum leak solenoid, Which will cost about $30 for him. I’ll keep you posted and let you know if that helps.
 
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