Sorry, 2014 dart sxt rallye, 2.4 auto.

 

Could the bearings really be bad at 19k miles?

YES. Mine went bad at 21k on my first Dart and now they went bad at 25k on my second Dart. Just a bad design that allows dirt and debris to enter the bearing. Replacement cost was about $100 from the dealership. Superior aftermarket bearings can be purchased for much cheaper.

 

Shouldn't bearings be covered under warranty?

I would try rotating the tires and seeing if the sound follows - rule out the bearings if it does.

My kuhmos are loud as shit, especially on rough roads. I have 16k miles

 

first before you do anything is take your car on a flat road and go about 20 miles an hour....listen to the sound that your hearing...does it go away when you slowly turn 1 way or the other? if it does go away to which side does it make the noise..... if it makes it all the time without turning then i could see it being a tire...if not its a bearing

 

Jack up the car at each tire. Grab the tire at 3:00 and 9:00 and try to move it in and out on each side. If you feel play, then it's a bearing. If you lift the entire front end, engage the ebrake, start the engine and put it in drive. Listen at each tire being careful not to get too close to the turning wheel. If you hear noise with the tire in the air, it's a bearing. You can also check a rear wheel in the air by turning it by hand and listening for noise.

 

It makes the noise all the time but gets louder as I turn. The direction doesn't matter. Both directions gets louder. Which I why I think tires vs bearings.

Also, off topic. I didn't get the keyless enter and go :/ I hate fobik keys. Could I get one of the keys like for a Durango that has the blade and buttons all on one and program and get cut for my car? I just think they look better.

And or, I have been searching like mad. For the fobik does anybody know where I can get a replacement case in a color? I can find $10 cases all day long I would just like to possibly find one maybe in red? I think that would be cool. Just a thought.

 

The ignition node does not have a traditional lock cylinder for the key blade. The ignition node is only looking for the chip with the correct 4 digit PIN. The key blade only opens the drivers door lock. The door lock does not look for the PIN. The RKE portion has to have the correct FCC number or it will not program. There are eBay cases that require you to remove your circuit board from the original case and insert that board in the new case. If the part that engages the ignition node is correct it should work. Since I have two Darts with identical looking fobs, I found colored keys (Y157) that I cut to the correct code to make it easier to tell the fobs apart.

 

The ignition node does not have a traditional lock cylinder for the key blade. The ignition node is only looking for the chip with the correct 4 digit PIN. The key blade only opens the drivers door lock. The door lock does not look for the PIN. The RKE portion has to have the correct FCC number or it will not program. There are eBay cases that require you to remove your circuit board from the original case and insert that board in the new case. If the part that engages the ignition node is correct it should work. Since I have two Darts with identical looking fobs, I found colored keys (Y157) that I cut to the correct code to make it easier to tell the fobs apart.
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Ah I see, I was told that the blade was an emergency back up incase the fobik broke. So naturally assumed I'f the other type of key had the same fcc code and a blade cut to match that it would work the ignition. I'll check out that code you sent.

 

Yeah just tried the back up key. Definitely doesn't start the car lol. Maybe the big actual spare my car came with would. Looks to have a chip in it. If that works the ignition then I don't see why a Durango key (with buttons on the end) wouldn't work if the fcc number is the same.

My brother used to have a 2010 journey with these fobs so I learned to have a quick disconnect on my key chain since they are prone to breaking off with to much weight.

 

The easiest things for you to check are whether the tires are cupped/scalloped or if the brakes are dragging (this will also make noise). You can google how to do these things. This will require you to lift each corner of the car off the ground, which will also let you do some tests for bad wheel bearings, which you can also google.

I'm dealing with the same issue. I have a "wub-wub-wub" sound (no vibrations) that I'm trying to hunt down. The tires don't seem to be cupped at all, and it doesn't sound anything like a bearing noise. It might be the back brakes, because I think the pads are rubbing a bit more than they should (I am going to grind down the tabs/ears on the pads, because they're way too tight in their brackets), but I haven't had time to check everything thoroughly, because of family stuff and rain.

 

I'm dealing with the same issue. I have a "wub-wub-wub" sound (no vibrations) that I'm trying to hunt down. The tires don't seem to be cupped at all, and it doesn't sound anything like a bearing noise.

I had the same sound at 30k miles with the factory conti tires. I got some different conti tires and the noise went away.

 

So I havnt decided yet whether, with 19k miles if my wheel bearing are being noisy or if it is the factory kumho tires that are kinda noisy.

It get noisier in bends and such but it's a pretty even noise, not really a growl. Think I'm gonna take it to dodge before the warranty runs out on the second.

Could the bearings really be bad at 19k miles?

The easiest things for you to check are whether the tires are cupped/scalloped or if the brakes are dragging (this will also make noise). You can google how to do these things. This will require you to lift each corner of the car off the ground, which will also let you do some tests for bad wheel bearings, which you can also google.

I'm dealing with the same issue. I have a "wub-wub-wub" sound (no vibrations) that I'm trying to hunt down. The tires don't seem to be cupped at all, and it doesn't sound anything like a bearing noise. It might be the back brakes, because I think the pads are rubbing a bit more than they should (I am going to grind down the tabs/ears on the pads, because they're way too tight in their brackets), but I haven't had time to check everything thoroughly, because of family stuff and rain.

Yeah that's very true. I think I'm just gonna schedule an app with the dealer. I just bought this car last Tuesday lol. I'm just trying to find some definitive info to back my self up. I know how dealers try to "oh that's normal noise for these cars".

 

Did a little research and the Y170-PT blank has the correct chip and the 84GRV blade. You would need to get the chip programmed to your PIN. Those blanks are a reasonable price on eBay. Chrysler has used the 84GRV blade since about 1994 and the same M series key codes since 1998. So any blank from Y157 on has the 84GRV blade. Chips are different depending on the years.

 

Did a little research and the Y170-PT blank has the correct chip and the 84GRV blade. You would need to get the chip programmed to your PIN. Those blanks are a reasonable price on eBay. Chrysler has used the 84GRV blade since about 1994 and the same M series key codes since 1998. So any blank from Y157 on has the 84GRV blade. Chips are different depending on the years.

This is from Strattec on how to program the chip in the key.

 

Did a little research and the Y170-PT blank has the correct chip and the 84GRV blade. You would need to get the chip programmed to your PIN. Those blanks are a reasonable price on eBay. Chrysler has used the 84GRV blade since about 1994 and the same M series key codes since 1998. So any blank from Y157 on has the 84GRV blade. Chips are different depending on the years.

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This is from Strattec on how to program the chip in the key.

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Yeah I have that exact key. Instead of two remote fobs I got one remote and one of those. Which I didn't know until after everything was said, signed and done or I would have pushed for two. Unfortunately the Durango key has a different fcc number. So that sucks.

 

This for example. I looooove this. But the fcc is different so it won't work. Which is pretty lame

 

Last summer my Dart (also a '14 Rallye) had a similar growling noise at freeway speeds, and it turned out to be the OEM Kumho tires. I had 45K on them by that time. If yours does turn out to be bearings I agree that you're better off buying a decent aftermarket set unless you're strapped for cash and need to claim it under warranty.

 

Figured I should update this. Took it into carmax, let the tech take it for a test ride with me in the car. He absolutely said it was noisy is uncomfortable for that car.

Rotated the tires, noise is gone. Simple.

 

Any updates on this topic? I have 48,000 Miles on the original Kumho Solus KH-25 Tires 225 45 R17. I started noticing the noise around 43,000 Miles. The noise gets louder the faster I drive. I am thinking it is the tires since I am almost down to the replacement indicators. It is very annoying at expressway speeds. I am wondering how many folks have had this problem and after tire replacement the problem went away? I recently had the tires balanced and rotated but it did not help. I raised each tire individually and did not feel any play in the tires so I am thinking it isn't the wheel bearings. Any input on this would be appreciated.

 

Since your tires are basically at the minimum safe tread indicator, and it's a pretty sure bet that they're the source of the noise, you should probably just replace them. Especially since the tires you have aren't considered very good even when new, and they don't improve as they wear.

 

Any consensus on the best bearing replacements yet? I've been using Moog so far on the Darts I service at the shop and am unaware of anything better out there. I would usually go with Mopar replacement, except when I find that the factory parts are not living up to the billing. (like the rusted out oil pan on my 04 Hemi Ram! lol)

Was surprised the first time I did a rear hub on one of these Darts, that it's an open bearing and really no significant dust shield protecting the backside. Really expected to see a sealed cased bearing in there, just like a front hub assembly.............

 

Timken makes front and rear wheel bearings for the Dart and there’s another company also but I can’t remember the name.
I’m still on the OE bearings at 39k miles so I can’t comment on the aftermarket bearings.

 

I replaced my rear bearings at 22k on my 1st GT and I'm pushing it at 36k on my 2nd GT. Both howl like mad while at city or highway speeds.

Both vehicles were 100% street driven except for maybe 30 minutes of dirt roads total. They are just OEM garbage, plain and simple. My Dodge Neon lasted until 120k and that was driving it through hell and back, underwater, lots of dirt roads, etc.

 

the tires on my car were noisy after a month or two. after rotating them, the noise went away.

mysteries of life i guess

 

As an update, very late. It was the tires, have new bf goodrich rubber now and she's silent.

 

When I had the noise with my Dart two years ago I replaced the tires and it went away. I now have close to 40,000 miles on the replacement tires and the noise has come back. The tires are not cupped or abnormally worn that I can see, but the tread is getting down to where it barely passes the quarter test (if you use a penny to test you're letting your tires go too long). Darts apparently don't like running on worn tires.

 

Best way to tell if it's the bearings is to take a turn, such as a freeway cloverleaf ramp, at a high rate of speed. If the noise disappears during the turn it's the bearings. If you are turning left and the noise disappears it's the drivers side bearing, if you are turning right and the noise disappears it's the passenger side bearing. Bearings will make a howling noise that gets louder and louder as speed increases.