There is no such thing as an AGS sensor. The AGS actuator gets a signal from the PCM through the white/red LIN bus wire. If you searched for the diagnostic, it would have told you to use a multimeter to find the wiring fault. The PCM isn't communicating with the AGS actuator and to prevent overheating which would happen if the shutters were closed, the PCM turns on the radiator fan. Fix the wiring fault.

 

Ok you are correct I removed it earlier to check for corrosion and saw that the wire were dangled. Any idea what mode to put my multimeter on and what numbers to expect? Also do I leave my car key on or off?

 

Also about the proxi alignment on my other post would I have to fix the codes from the BCM for the proxy alignment to work even though the codes reflect me needing a proxy alignment?

 

The violet/red wire to the positive probe and black wire to the negative probe should have 12 volts with the ignition on at the disconnected AGS connector. The white/red wire should be checked for continuity. Disconnect each connector end from the PCM and the AGS actuator and use the ohm scale on the multimeter with a probe at each end of that white/red wire. You should get a low reading less than 5 ohms.
There are you tube videos about using a multimeter.
You have a AGS code. Fix the AGS and then do the PROXI.

 

Ok will do I also seen videos on YouTube but still didnt know what numbers to expect. Thankyou

 

Back with an update! the white/red has no continuity. I did get 12 volts with the violate/red wire but there was another violate or red wire on the end that I got nothing from.. I think it is the actuator grill shutter by looking at the diagram.

 

What would be my next step to fixing this issue. The ags sensor had my radiator fan blowing so hard that it broke all of the blades off on my fan.

 

Again, it's not a sensor, it's an actuator motor. Any motor needs a positive wire and a negative wire as well as a switch. Since you are getting a communication code, it's likely the PCM isn't getting or sending a signal. You need to find the wiring fault whether it's an open or short to ground or voltage. Use your multimeter, find the fault and fix it.

 

Yes I changed the temperature sensor and I get confused so my apologies idk if you read my other replies but I did test them and explained what I got. Here’s my reply “Back with an update! the white/red has no continuity. I did get 12 volts with the violate/red wire but there was another violate or red wire on the end that I got nothing from.. I think it is the actuator grill shutter by looking at the diagram.” So going forward I am asking what is the next step how do I fix the problem? Sorry if I’m aggravating you I’m just a girl trying to figure things out

 

If there's no continuity, the problem is the wire or the connector, not the ags actuator.

 

lol Yeap thats sounds about right if your interested could you tell me what parts do I need to fix it? Do I need to splice wires or purchase the whole harness

 

If you can find a 2015-16 Chrysler 200 at a self serve junkyard those harnesses to the AGS actuator are longer. Cut and splice to your harness. There will only be 3 wires so figure out which violet/red wire on your connector is redundant (not used). Any splice should be soldered and covered with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. Anything else will corrode and not last. The following video shows how to do a proper splice. Instead of the small brass crimps, you can take a single strand and wrap the spliced wires to hold them together while soldering. To get a single strand, you need to strip off the insulation from a 3 inch length of wire. Harbor Freight sells adhesive lined heat shrink tubing and calls it Marine heat shrink tubing. If you don't have a solder iron, get at least a 60 watt solder iron. Harbor Freight also sells a nice heat gun for the heat shrink tubing.

 

Thankyou☺ I actually have a soldering iron I never knew what those straw like things are for

 

Those straw things are heat shrink tubing but the only way to tell if they are adhesive lined is to shrink one over a wire to see if adhesive oozes out.
Be sure to use only resin core solder not acid core solder.

 

Ok I will test them out thanks again

 

There are different thicknesses of heat shrink for different thicknesses of wire. Dart wires are very thin so you would be using the thinnest heat shrink tubing. There is a limit to how much each thickness of tubing will shrink. The Harbor Freight one comes with a good assortment of sizes.

https://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html?

 

Update: I went to the junkyard to get the wiring to the ags actuator . I see that the purple-red wire is covered with the black piece. Will I need to splice that wire also or leave it as such and only splice the other 3 wires?? Also is this the soldering wiring that you stated I needed to get?

 

The violet/red wire with a black heat shrink is a redundant wire that doesn't get soldered to anything. No idea why it's even there because it doesn't do anything. You only need to splice the other 3 wires.
That is the correct type of solder.

 

Ok thankyou

 

Back with another update: I did my best with soldering the wire and wrapped it with heat shrink when I was done. I turned my car on and the actuator closed and then stayed open. I read in another discussion that, that is the pcm testing the actuator. So does that mean my problem with the pcm and code ue119 is fixed?? I haven’t put it on my obd scanner again yet.

 

You should be able to clear the code with your scanner or it should clear itself after a bunch of drive cycles.

 

Great I can’t believe I fixed my car on my own

Off topic: could you inform me of what kind of air filter is recommended for the 2015 dodge dart sxt 2.4l?

 

4627127AB is the Mopar part but you can use an equivalent like a Purolator A26281 or TA26281.