If there's no valve why would it need a solenoid? So NO.

 

Does it have an egr valve solenoid?

 

The 2.0 Dart never had an EGR valve.

 

Is there a egr valve on my 2014 2.0 dart se ? I want to replace it but can’t find anything legit on info for it or how to videos?

 

Ok awesome. I know I have asked a million questions but thank you for all your help.

 

Those hoses have nothing to do with your problem. They are part of the cooling system.

 

There is no such thing as a 2.0 V6. All model year Dart 2.0 engines are the same. You really should try to go to a you pull type junkyard so you have some practice with pulling it yourself. Google LKQ Pick a part or Row52, those are chains of self serve junkyards.
Those are coolant hoses to the oil cooler. The foil coverings are to protect the hoses from heat.

 

That’s what I thought I am bringing tools and I have done my homework going to start with the closest cars first. That’s all I have in my area.

would those hoses also be a cause of my code aswell?

 

The only junk yard darts I can find within 100 miles are 2013 or 2015 or 2016 years. They are 2.0 models but say v6. Will those intake manifolds work if I get one? Also I did notice this this morning? What are those hoses leading too? Looks like the engine. The foil covers the rubber and then it’s a metal pipe leading into that way.

 

 

While you have the intake manifold off, replace the intake cam VVT solenoid. You wouldn't want to remove the intake manifold again anytime soon. The exhaust cam VVT is easily accessed anytime later if necessary.

 

Should I still replace my solinoid’s tho you think?

 

PCM tries to compensate for the leak by controlling fuel. Fix the leak and all should be normal.

 

Compensating for what tho? The evap test past fine and also the solinoid too.

 

That's likely because the PCM is compensating.

 

So awesome. Thank you so much for posting. While I am going to do that and get a new intake manifold I did get a good obd 2 scanner finally figured out how to use it and i ran some diagnostics and found something other then the vaccum leak. This test I ran on the bank one fuel system monitor and reads running high. Does that mean my fuel filter or ? What part should I look at replacing or getting to help with that? Pic below

 

09 - Engine, 2.0L DOHC / Manifolds / MANIFOLD, Intake / Removal

REMOVAL

WARNING:
Release fuel system pressure before servicing system components. Service vehicles in well ventilated areas and avoid ignition sources. Never smoke while servicing the vehicle.

1.Perform fuel system pressure release procedure before attempting any repairs (Refer to 14 - Fuel System/Fuel Delivery - Standard Procedure) .

2.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.

3.Remove the resonator assembly (Refer to 09 - Engine, Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner/Removal)

4.Using a steering wheel holder, lock the steering wheel in place to keep it from rotating. This keeps the clockspring in the proper orientation.

5.Remove the steering column lower coupler pinch bolt (3) and separate the column (2) from the steering gear (4).

6.Disconnect the vapor line (2) at the purge vapor solenoid end of the line.

7.Remove the NVH foam pad (3) prior to disconnecting the fuel line (1).

8.To remove the foam pad, cut the pad along the score line (1). Make sure care is taken to not make contact with any other components while cutting the pad. Do not cut beyond the line. Remove the pad from the fuel rail once split.

9.Unplug the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) connector.

10.Unplug the purge solenoid.

11.Remove the throttle body bracket bolts (3), loosen the nuts (2). Allow the throttle body bracket bolts to remain with the intake manifold.

12.Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connectors (1).

13.Disconnect fuel line at rail (3).

14.Remove the two bolts at the fuel rail (2).

15.Remove the throttle body bolts (1) and nut (2) then remove the throttle body assembly (3).

16.Raise and support the vehicle.

17.Remove the front suspension crossmember (Refer to 13 - Frame and Bumpers/Frame/CROSSMEMBER, Front Suspension/Removal) .

18.Remove the four screws that secure the intake manifold silencer to the manifold (1).

19.Remove the intake manifold silencer assembly.

20.Remove the two nuts (1), the bolt (2) and the intake manifold lower bracket (3).

21.Remove wiring harness retainer from the intake manifold eyelets (1).

22.Unplug the three hose connectors (3).

23.Unplug the MAP sensor connector (2).

24.Remove intake manifold retaining bolts (2) and nuts (1).

25.Remove intake manifold through the bottom of the vehicle.

 

The procedure to remove the intake manifold off is not easy. I haven't had a reason to remove one but from reading what is suggested in the factory service manual, it might be easier to remove it attached to the head. The FSM wants you to remove the crossmember with the steering rack so you can pull it out from underneath. I can post the procedure, but it will take a while to copy it all.

 

I have watched plenty of videos on how to take off the intake manifold but they all have the engine already out of the car. Is that the only way to do so? I don’t have a full car lift but I can put it up on jack’s.

 

Ok. Thank you for the advice.

 

The exhaust CMP sensor is on your right mounted to the head as you look at the engine. It has a small heat shield. The exhaust cam VVT solenoid is on your left and does not have a heat shield. The part on the left that has a heat shield is the ignition noise capacitor. It's too cold to go out and remove the engine cover and take pics but you really should look at fixing the intake manifold crack before running to the parts store for things that don't normally cause a problem. Code P219A is for an air fuel ratio imbalance so a cracked manifold should be your number 1 priority.
It is just one bolt for the VVT solenoid and there is nothing to align. The intake VVT requires removal of the intake manifold to get access to it. Torque for that bolt is 12 N·m (9 ft. lbs.).

 

Ok so what are the 2 sensors attached to the engine infront up to with the heat shields?

also I just take one bolt off and pull the solenoid out to change? I don’t have to align anything

 

Camshaft sensors are on the transmission side (cylinder 4) of the engine front and back. VVT solenoids are on the timing chain side (cylinder1) of the engine front and back.
There is just one bolt for the VVT solenoids. One is in front on the exhaust manifold side and the other is in back on the intake manifold side of the engine.

2.0L VVT solenoid

 

Also what kind of sensors are on the engine near the exhaust manifold from facing on the engine at the top that have 2 small heatshield infront of them. 1 infront of bank 1 and bank 4. Those camshaft sensors?

 

The problem is that fuel vapor and temperature changes will eventually make it leak again. You should be able to find an intake manifold at a self serve junkyard. I have actually seen several already pulled and left behind after someone pulls a head.

 

Ok gotcha. I just need to pass smog so I might do that temporally. Also the vvt solenoids for the exhaust and intake manifold. Is there a how to somewhere to change? The one behind bank one looks like just a bolt holds it in. If I unscrew it will just come out and input the new one in?

 

Junkyard time for another intake manifold. You will need a new cat. Whatever you ran over did some damage.

To find your previous thread, click on your screen name and then click latest activity. You don't need to keep starting new threads for the same problem.

 

Does it make any sense to try and seal the crack on the manifold with heat temp silicone? Or is that a waste of time?

 

So I ran the diagnostics test. There was no misfire and I had changed my oxygen sensors a few months ago. So what I found was the possible leak is coming from the intake manifold. When I went under the car I found this, aswell as on the catalytic converter. Can anyone tell me if that’s possible? Puddy and tape fill the cracks for the intake gap and catalytic converter? Pics posted below