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Discussion Starter #1,061 (Edited)
Addendum...

Spring/Summer - Tires & Wheels
ADDENDUM

Curiosity was killing this cat and my ever-questing thirst for knowledge was getting the better of me so I figured I would use the tools I have to gather more information about the new Sport Edition P2/Sumitomo HTR Z II package. This time I did the comparison NOT to the current setup of the stock OEM Hyper-blacks with the 225/55r17's, BUT to the ORIGINAL 225/45r17's to see how much of a different we are really looking at from this standpoint.

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OEM Hyper-blacks - 225/45r17 vs OEM Hyper-blacks - 225/55r17
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OEM Hyper-blacks - 225/45r17 vs Sport Edition P2/Sumitomo HTR Z II - 225/60zr16
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One of the big take away's is seeing the scrub radius change from from ZERO on the stock setup to a -8mm on the upsizing sidewall from 45 to 55. I mean its not overly eye opening since it is such a huge change, however it is one of note as it is past the +/-4mm scrub radius tolerance one would like. Personally, I didn't feel or see a drastic change in the way she has reacted since the newer 55 spec sidewalls. And on top of that, I am happy that I am a -8mm (and not positive) as a negative scrub radius has rather good effects on braking characteristics. Since wheel will be offset slightly inboard the contact between tire & road is comparatively large. Which increases the effective braking of the vehicle. So, this isn't really an issue if one does choose to increase their side-walls from the stock 45 spec sidewalls.

On the flip side, when one goes from 225/45r17's to 225/60zr16's you see even less of a change. As you can see the scrub radius is only -3mm when downsizing from the stock OEM 17 x 7.5 225/45r17. This is even better than the -8mm as one is well in spec with the +/- 4mm tolerance of scrub radius. This a very good thing with -3mm on a spring/summer setup would more or less be ideal as you will still get the proper handling and other additional goodies one receives with downsizing the rim diameter and up-sizing the sidewall. One will get a nice increase in breaking as well since you will have the slightly negative scrub radius.

Furthermore, after even more extensive research front wheel drive cars pretty much require a zero or slightly negative scrub radius. Which I am in spec of with both setups I will be running Fall/Winter 17 x 7.5 225/55r17 (-8mm) & Spring/Summer 16 x 7.5 225/60zr16 (-3mm). This forces the front wheels to toe in to provide stability when braking on front wheel drive vehicles as well as gives a stabilizing effect when traction between the left and right wheels varies. Lastly, front-wheel-drive MacPherson strut front suspension features a negative scrub radius, which aids in minimizing the torque steer effect that’s a common trait of front-wheel drive systems. Again, a negative scrub radius is a good thing (nothing extreme of course). In this aspect of life a NEGATIVE is truly a POSITIVE. :)

Lug Bolt to Lug Nut Conversion
While I was researching the new wheel/tire setup, I was thinking about how much of a pain it was with the lug bolts all the time. How relying on the center-hub to align the wheel was annoying and something I really didn't want to do two times a year. Plus, the last time I was out for garage-mahal day with @Bullfrog we saw my lug bolts were swelling quite a bit and it raised some concerns in my mind. With all that being said, I researched (of course) and came across @viperman96's thread from 2014 http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-dart-appearance/20164-switched-lug-nuts-bolts.html. So I went that route. However, I did not go with the open ended bolts. I researched and found some Otis lug buts - B-D91 -M12x1.25 Cone Seat. I've read nothing but good things about the Otis Lug Nuts or the wheel stud conversion kit. I look forward to installing these when I convert over to the new spring/tire setup and getting the added benefits of simple tire changes...
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ADDENDUM CONCLUSION
Anyway, I thought you would like to compare and contrast the differences between the stock vs current vs new. It is going to be a welcome change and one I am very excited to experience. I probably won't put Aya's new shoes on until April 1st since the Commonwealth is notorious for having late blizzard winter weather. Better be safe than sorry and if I waited almost 3+ years for a spring/summer set of wheels/tires, I can wait an extra month. :)

Keep your head up and smile as much as you can. Smile as much as you can, and remember you can make a difference. Each day is a new page, you're the author... write the best story you can. Until next time
...stay tuned!
 

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Wow. @youngsmith53 - I'm amazed you were able to find ultra high-performance tires with that kind of sidewall. Good for you for finding what you wanted for your car! Selecting a new set of tires is rather... nerve-wracking. You just never really know until you drive them. I can't wait to hear how your Dart drives with its summer setup, but yes, you should definitely wait until the warm weather is here to stay. Summer rubber compounds can be dangerous in cold temperatures, and we're all interested to see what the next 1000+ posts in this thread will reveal, so you can't be going and killing your Dart! :)
 

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@youngsmith53 I've been debating on whether to do the conversion to studs for a while, it would definitely make my life easier when changing the tires. I am planning on using the stock rallye 17s and 16 steel wheels. I am unsure what length I would require for the studs. I believe that the 44mm kit is the right one (20 Wheel Stud Conversion 12x1.25 TO 12x1.25 Studs Adapter Kit 44mm 1.75" | eBay) I would like to avoid using a spacer if at all possible.
 

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@youngsmith53 I've been debating on whether to do the conversion to studs for a while, it would definitely make my life easier when changing the tires. I am planning on using the stock rallye 17s and 16 steel wheels. I am unsure what length I would require for the studs. I believe that the 44mm kit is the right one (20 Wheel Stud Conversion 12x1.25 TO 12x1.25 Studs Adapter Kit 44mm 1.75" | eBay) I would like to avoid using a spacer if at all possible.
In regards to the conversion kit after researching and checking out all I could with the topic, the studs themselves are the correct length. So, the 44mm kit you have posted is the exact same I have ordered and received. The only thing I'm waiting on is trying to find out what torque spec to torque them to into the hub. I have a PM into @viperman96 to see what torque spec he used for installation. I'd love to reach out to @DeyemeRacing to find out their torque specs since they have a conversion kit; however, I feel bad doing that since I didn't obtain the products from them. Either way, once I find the torque specs they'll be installed ASAP.

With regards to the lug nut length, I don't run spacers and quite frankly I'm not a fan of them as I feel they cause more harm than good to the overall suspension geometry as well as the scrub radius. Anyway, with the length of the nut, rule of thumb for our platform is 30mm without spacers. Unfortunately (or fortunately) I didn't find anything in that size that would work for what I was looking for. I increased my search to a longer lug nut, until I found one that will work and function the way I would like. Yes, they may stick out further than the current lug bolts; but, it won't be by much (4mm to be exact). It's not a deal breaker by any means in my book.

Anyway, I hope this helps give some insight into my thought process and products. Let me know if it's clear as mud (lol) or need further assistance. Hope all is well!
 

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@youngsmith53 - Sorry to highjack your build thread (ok, not really), but I thought people might want answers to "what the heck is scrub radius?" and, as usual, the Engineering Explained YouTube page delivers:

Hey @jsblanch you know that video is a few posts back right?
 

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Hey @jsblanch you know that video is a few posts back right?
Is that what that is? For some reason it shows as a broken thing that doesn't play in my browser, but the one I posted works. Stupid computer. Anyway, the only thing I've managed to do today that wasn't a complete waste of time was fill the washer fluid reservoir in my Dart. So I'm just being consistent. :)
 

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Is that what that is? For some reason it shows as a broken thing that doesn't play in my browser, but the one I posted works. Stupid computer. Anyway, the only thing I've managed to do today that wasn't a complete waste of time was fill the washer fluid reservoir in my Dart. So I'm just being consistent. :)
Hahaha thats ok, we all have those days sometimes!
 

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Me, I always look out of place in an auto store, I'm usually on my lunch break or coming home from work. Daniel Bryan beard, handtied bowtie, Mr. Rogers cartigan sweater, jeans and a pair of Converse Chuck Taylor all stars (almost always works out that I'm wearing my pink pair when I step foot in said auto stores, how's that for awkward)... but anyway now that you have that creepy image of me in your head, here is the oil... :D

Stay tuned...
Is it weird that I kind of want to see this??

Lmao

Anyways, I'm going to start doing oil changes. I'm pretty much dead set on using the wix filters... but for oil im torn. I can get Mobil 1 for $5.97/qt @NAPa or the Napa 0w20 for $4.95/qt.

I know you've used both.. I tried reading the blackstone results, but when it comes to oils (that i'm not changing every 1-2k miles like my 1973 charger) I have no idea what I'm talking about... So can you clear up. Was the Tnb + Iron increase possibly due to the change from mobil 1 - napa? I like mobil 1, seems like everyone does, and I can't afford amsoil.

Just need to be told between napa or mobil 1... My commute is 12 miles - minimum to work/school. I have grill shutters, temp outside sits around 40 in winter and 95+ in the usmmer.

Figure you know a decent amount about oils as I am just starting to get into it. I'd like to save money, but I don't want it to come back and bite me in the @$$ later.

Appreciate it!
 

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Is it weird that I kind of want to see this??

Lmao
Ha, not at all. However, my beard isn't that long anymore and I only wear my bow-ties for special occasions since I don't need to wear a tie on the shop floor of Harley. Yet, when the bow-tie does come out on the shop floor everyone loves it.

Anyways, I'm going to start doing oil changes. I'm pretty much dead set on using the wix filters... but for oil im torn. I can get Mobil 1 for $5.97/qt @ NAPA or the Napa 0w20 for $4.95/qt.
Yes, Wix/NAPA filters are my personal favorites as well. I've used the oversized large filters as well as the smaller filters and never had any issues with either of them. Currently I'm running a Purolator, but that is due to be changing out my filter in the spring when I mount my sandwich plate to run my oil pressure & oil temp gauges. If it wasn't for that I'd still be running a NAPA filter (or a PureOne Synthetic (the discontinued blue ones))

I know you've used both.. I tried reading the blackstone results, but when it comes to oils (that i'm not changing every 1-2k miles like my 1973 charger) I have no idea what I'm talking about... So can you clear up. Was the Tnb + Iron increase possibly due to the change from mobil 1 - napa? I like mobil 1, seems like everyone does, and I can't afford amsoil.
In regards to a TBN and Iron, I'll try and explain the best way I can. TBN is short for total base number, which is the amount of total additives that are left in the oil. So, you would want a higher TBN than a lower as you would like the most additives still in your oil combating and preventing potential deposits as well as providing the best protection for the engine. BUT, you cannot go off of the TBN alone as even if the oil has a high TBN, if it is not protecting like it should (seeing higher than normal wear) one would want to change the oil. As you can see in the Blackstone reports the TBN for NAPA has been 4.0 and 2.3 which is fantastic. However, it looks like there was some potential other sheering going on...

Which leads us in talking about the Iron content you brought up. Iron is located within the cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil. With that being said, I'm not sure why my iron went up when it did. I don't believe it was due to the oil at all as I mentioned here in post #1034:

youngsmith53 said:
I know for a fact I did a lot more idling last UOA before I read up an researched more about fuel dilution due to longer idle. As far as the "hard use" I could see that as a case of my short commute. It's been well documented that I have a 3.1 mile commute and more often than not I can't get the Dart to warm up or come up to temperature by the time I enter the parking lot. This might explain the high IRON due to the occasional shearing here and there.
(I hate quoting myself, but it was applicable this time)​

I have change my driving habits as I don't allow Aya to sit and idle to 'warm up', I get in and go. I have found that I am able to reach temperature more often than not when I am backing into the parking space. So, it might have been driver error causing the high iron, or it may have been the car still breaking in since I'm still under 29k. Either way I am mindful of my short commute and how the car reacts to it.

Just need to be told between napa or mobil 1... My commute is 12 miles - minimum to work/school. I have grill shutters, temp outside sits around 40 in winter and 95+ in the summer.
You can't go wrong either way with NAPA or Mobil1. I used both, however I never ran a blackstone report on the Mobil 1. It sounds like your commute and environmental climate is similar to mine. I have my AGS at the bare-minimum, but other than that everything else is the same. I use NAPA because I trust the oil and I like saving some money when it is on sale, but like I said it's all personal preference as you can't go wrong either way.

Figure you know a decent amount about oils as I am just starting to get into it. I'd like to save money, but I don't want it to come back and bite me in the @$$ later.

Appreciate it!
Much obliged for the complement as I'm here to help and this is why the build thread is here. It's a learning platform and I'm happy to assist when I can to help those that seek the advice and want to understand. Thank you again for the kind words and let me know if you have any other questions or comments, I'm only a post or PM away.
 

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Ha, not at all. However, my beard isn't that long anymore and I only wear my bow-ties for special occasions since I don't need to wear a tie on the shop floor of Harley. Yet, when the bow-tie does come out on the shop floor everyone loves it.



Yes, Wix/NAPA filters are my personal favorites as well. I've used the oversized large filters as well as the smaller filters and never had any issues with either of them. Currently I'm running a Purolator, but that is due to be changing out my filter in the spring when I mount my sandwich plate to run my oil pressure & oil temp gauges. If it wasn't for that I'd still be running a NAPA filter (or a PureOne Synthetic (the discontinued blue ones))



In regards to a TBN and Iron, I'll try and explain the best way I can. TBN is short for total base number, which is the amount of total additives that are left in the oil. So, you would want a higher TBN than a lower as you would like the most additives still in your oil combating and preventing potential deposits as well as providing the best protection for the engine. BUT, you cannot go off of the TBN alone as even if the oil has a high TBN, if it is not protecting like it should (seeing higher than normal wear) one would want to change the oil. As you can see in the Blackstone reports the TBN for NAPA has been 4.0 and 2.3 which is fantastic. However, it looks like there was some potential other sheering going on...

Which leads us in talking about the Iron content you brought up. Iron is located within the cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil. With that being said, I'm not sure why my iron went up when it did. I don't believe it was due to the oil at all as I mentioned here in post #1034:

(I hate quoting myself, but it was applicable this time)​

I have change my driving habits as I don't allow Aya to sit and idle to 'warm up', I get in and go. I have found that I am able to reach temperature more often than not when I am backing into the parking space. So, it might have been driver error causing the high iron, or it may have been the car still breaking in since I'm still under 29k. Either way I am mindful of my short commute and how the car reacts to it.


You can't go wrong either way with NAPA or Mobil1. I used both, however I never ran a blackstone report on the Mobil 1. It sounds like your commute and environmental climate is similar to mine. I have my AGS at the bare-minimum, but other than that everything else is the same. I use NAPA because I trust the oil and I like saving some money when it is on sale, but like I said it's all personal preference as you can't go wrong either way.


Much obliged for the complement as I'm here to help and this is why the build thread is here. It's a learning platform and I'm happy to assist when I can to help those that seek the advice and want to understand. Thank you again for the kind words and let me know if you have any other questions or comments, I'm only a post or PM away.
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to youngsmith53 again.

I appreciate you breaking it down! I had the gist of it, but you made it easier to understand.
 

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Hey YS!

You always talk about how much you like Napa filters... Is there a Napa filter for the 1.4T???
 
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Discussion Starter #1,073 (Edited)
You always talk about how much you like Napa filters... Is there a Napa filter for the 1.4T???
Indeed there is... Part Number: 7341

1.4t filter.PNG

This is comparable to a NAPA "Gold" class of filter. Also from previously speaking with @starscream5000, they use Wix filters for their 1.4t. Either way in my book, no matter the application; you can't go wrong with a Wix/NAPA filter.
 

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Indeed there is... Part Number: 7341


This is comparable to a NAPA "Gold" class of filter. Also from previously speaking with @starscream5000 I know they use Wix filters for their 1.4t. Either way in my book, no matter the application; you can't go wrong with a Wix/NAPA filter.
Yet again you never cease to amaze with your wealth of knowledge! Thank you very much and id give you Rep if I could! If we ever get the Member of the Year vote going, you are definitely my vote!
 
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Indeed there is... Part Number: 7341


This is comparable to a NAPA "Gold" class of filter. Also from previously speaking with @starscream5000 I know they use Wix filters for their 1.4t. Either way in my book, no matter the application; you can't go wrong with a Wix/NAPA filter.
Realistically, it's kind of hard to screw up the open media filters like the ones used in the 1.4T. It's a piece of plastic with folded paper media and a rubber o-ring. It has no mechanical parts or valves or springs like a metal canister filter has. Whatever "bypass" features it has are part of the vehicle itself, not the filter. They're usually all pretty much in the same price range, too.

That being said, I wouldn't recommend the FRAM 1.4T filter, as it's very tight to get a new one back on the cap, unlike the Mopar, which snap into place with much more reasonable force. It's almost like the Mopar filter was designed to fit the Dart properly or something! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #1,077 (Edited)
10 days till Aya's new shoes! Yup YS53...looking forward to this more than Tiger's "possible" return to the Masters this April!
Sorry, it took me a while to reply as I was in training all day yesterday and it's the end of the 11 week college semester so I'm trying to wrap up some loose ends. 33 years old taking 9 credits a semester, working 50+ hours and finding time for the wife and kids is a task in it self; however, I try and make time for the build thread and .org as well... :)

That being said, I'm hoping to have more than Aya's new shoes by the beginning of April. I have a few ideas/tricks up my sleeve and if the stars align properly she'll have more goodies and a full blown SPRING into the Young-Smith Garage itinerary will be in order. New ideas as well as spring maintenance throughout the month of April and potentially into May (depending on the weather and work/college schedule), but she'll get done either way and y'all will be on the journey with me as the build thread will be updated with pics, tips and tricks.

Much obliged for the well wishes and 'official countdown' @dartMTBer95 I appreciate it! Until next time
...stay tuned
 

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@dartMTBer95 are you and the rest of the .org ready? (lol) Anyway, I'll be elaborating on the installation as well as some other odds/ends on Wednesday when I'm at work and have a chance to sink my teeth into a proper write-up post. Until then, hopefully y'all be content with the limited pictures I took from Sunday (04/02/2017). Enjoy :)

Install & 'Jacked-up':​
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Close-up Rallye & Wide Angle:​
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center-cap & installed lug nuts:
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Discussion Starter #1,079 (Edited)
Spring into the Young-Smith Garage 2017

Spring into the Young-Smith Garage 2017

aka available days off through April - May 2017​

EngineYeah, I bit the billet (pun intended), contacted Sykes and ordered the 2.0L Automatic Flash Tune. I was on the fence and really didn't know IF it was worth me to tune again or not, but I figured I only live once (well this life anyway (but that's a different topic all together)). However, it was re-reading @KYHMAN's post here that pushed me over the edge. I might only have a 6.2 mile round trip commute, but I want that commute to be as enjoyable as possible.

I'm really excited to try out the @DeyemeRacing Rear Solid Billet Aluminum engine mount. Yes, I know it will be overkill. However, since I have installed the engine grounding kit the FIRM rear mount hasn't bothered me one bit. I have a feeling, I'll have the similar experience with the Billet when I go to install it as well. Yes, I know it will be harsher than the FIRM, but I want Aya to be the most efficient and practical Dart possible. In doing so I will have to make sacrifices. Billet mount with the Sykes tune is a win/win in my book.

Gauges... take two
  • Install Mishimoto MMOP-TPS Oil Sandwich Plate Adapter with 3 x 1/8 NPT Ports
    • 20mm x 1.5 adapter for oil filter
    • torque to instructional specifications
  • DRP Steering Column Dual Gauge Pod 2013+ Dodge Dart
    • Install Bosch SP0F000041 - Electrical Oil Pressure Gauge
    • Install Bosch SP0F000049 - Electrical Oil Temperature Gauge
    • Install Dorman 7171 - Voltmeter
    • Re-Route and Re-Install Transmission Temperature Gauge
Spring = less cold = more garage time = more time in general. If you remember from reading Fall into the Young-Smith garage for 2016 - CONCLUSION I simply ran out of daylight, time and warmth to complete this project. Next Friday (Good Friday (for those who believe)), my one engineer buddy from Harley is coming over to the garage and we're going to tackle this head on. Making the electronic connections and everything look pretty and functional. Overall I'm excited to gain more information as I laid out here.

Maintenance
  • Spring greasing - Moog Front End-links
  • Spring greasing - Energy Suspension Rear Sway Bar Bushings
  • Install Spring/Summer Wheel/Tire Setup - 16 x 7.5 Sport Edition P2 / Sumitomo HTR Z II - 225/60zr16 (separate post)
  • Lug Bolt to Lug Nut Conversion(separate post)
    • torque all lug nuts to 95ft/lb
  • Re-hose catch-can/air oil separator line & barb fittings
  • Re-tie Cold Air Intake Wrap
Simple/Boring maintenance with applying grease for the spring time, first application of the year. I did it in fall, I will do it again in spring. I don't drive enough to warrant all four seasons of greasing. Spring/Fall schedule will be enough. I'd like to re-plumb the catch-can/air oil separator hoses since I didn't take as much time as I would like last winter when I was in an emergency state of mind. However, with Spring I'll be able to take some time and clean things up to my standards. Same with the CAI wrap, just truing everything up to meet the standards of my personal acceptability. It's the little things that truly go a long way.

Appearance/Lighting
  • Install 7443 Yellow Gold Turn-Signal Bulbs
  • Install KC HiLiTES 151 Apollo Pro 6" 100w Driving Light System
    • vinyl tint w/ Golden Yellow Headlight film
  • Install Vortex Mud Guards
I for one am all about proactively solving problems. Personally, one of the worst things I have lived with since owning Aya has been her paltry headlight system. I have adjust them, I've done everything but switch to HIDs. Nothing was lighting up the roads enough. My engineer buddy from Harley and I came up with a cool yet practical way to solve this. Enter the KC HiLites Apollo Pro's. Yes, we've wanted to add the "Rally" car look to Aya as well as add functionality to her. Winner Winner Vegetarian Dinner. We have mounting solutions in place and we'll be tapping into the fogs to make sure they turn off/on with them as well as turn off when High Beams are activated. Now, because I want ultimate visibility from these new "rally" lights they will be vinyl tinted Golden Yellow because we all know yellow fogs provide more visibility and cut through the darkest of nights.

I've always wanted Mud Guards or Mud Flaps, but I've disliked the way they impact MPG's as well as the turbulence they cause airflow causing much inefficiency. This is why I've researched, researched, researched, as much as I could on mud guards/flaps to find the most efficient ones I could find. This is how I stumbled upon the Vortex Mud Guards as you can see with the picture below:
mud-guards.PNG
As you can see the aerodynamic design deflects the air flow thus reduces wind resistance, allowing a more free flowing travel of air causing not as much of an impact on MPG's. I am very excited to install these as I believe the mud guards will really provide a nice stance with the tall sidewalls. Either way more pics and installation will come in the coming days/weeks/months.

Miscellaneous
  • Full Active Grille Shutter Delete
After talking with @Exitus04, he provided me a good game plan with how to delete and eliminate the AGS system. I'm looking forward to it as it will free up more airflow and just provide a more efficient vehicle in the long run. I get why Dodge did this, but it's more of a hindrance and I'll be happy to fully eliminate this "new technology". If I do need a grille blocked for the winter, I want the control in my hands and not leave it up to the AGS system.

All, (if not most) will come with complete "step by step instructions" as well as plenty of pictures. I wanted to get all the information together to keep it in one place so I can keep track of it all (As well as print it out when I get home. :) ) I spread this out over two months because it's just been crazy hectic in my "off-forum" life, the new college semester starts on Monday; in which I'm taking 12 credits. I received a lead position at my company which means I am back to being on call 24/7 when the plant is running as well leading, guiding and mold the team. Couple those two with twin 4 year olds, my 10 year old son and my lovely caring wife, life can get a little busy. I'm 33, goin on 34, I'm not a spring chicken anymore either lol. Keeping my head above water each day is a struggle, but I take it one day at a time and keep breathing as I know it will get better. You have to remember, keep smiling, life isn't all that bad. :)

As always if you have any questions or comments, please let me know. Until then...

stay tuned.
 
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