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Run the engine until achieving normal operating temperature.
Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn the engine off.
Remove the engine cover.

CAUTION: When performing an engine oil change, the oil filter cap must be removed. Removing the oil filter cap releases oil held within the oil filter cavity and allows it to drain into the sump. Failure to remove the cap prior to reinstallation of the drain plug will not allow complete draining of the used engine oil.

Place an oil absorbent cloth around the oil filter housing at the base of the oil filter cap.

NOTE: The oil filter is attached to the oil filter cap.

Rotate the oil filter cap counterclockwise and remove the cap and filter from the oil filter housing.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Place a suitable drain pan under the crankcase drain plug.
Remove the drain plug from oil pan and allow the oil to drain into the pan. Inspect the drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace the drain plug and gasket if damaged.
Install the drain plug in the oil pan and tighten to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.).
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the oil filter from the oil filter cap.
Remove and discard the O-ring seal.

NOTE: It is not necessary to pre-oil the oil filter or fill the oil filter housing.

Lightly lubricate the new O-ring seal with clean engine oil.
Install the O-ring seal on the filter cap.
Install the new oil filter into the oil filter cap.
Thread the oil filter cap into the oil filter housing and tighten to 25 N·m (18 ft. lbs.).
Remove the oil fill cap. Fill the crankcase with the specified type and amount of engine oil.
Install the oil fill cap.
Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
Stop the engine and check the oil level.
Install the engine cover.
Dustov,
These are straight from dealer connect instructions.
 

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I changed my oil at 1000 miles. Tools needed are a torque wrench, 13 mm socket for drain plug, 27 mm oil filter cap socket, 7 mm wrench or nut driver for access cover screw. Disposable gloves will be on my list for the next change.
 

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Does anyone know exactly how important it is that you tighten the drain plug and filter cap to the specified N-m? I don't have a torque wrench, and would like to avoid spending the money to buy one, but if I have to for my car's well being of course I will.
 

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Mine is not the best and it cost $80 years ago. That being said, the main thing is do not over tighten the bolts. Snug is best when putting a bolt into anything aluminum because if you put some muscle into it there is a chance you will strip it out.
 

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Mine is not the best and it cost $80 years ago. That being said, the main thing is do not over tighten the bolts. Snug is best when putting a bolt into anything aluminum because if you put some muscle into it there is a chance you will strip it out.
So you think if I just put the bolts in snug I'll be okay, don't need the exact N-m?
 

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Yes but go back and check them in a few days. It's like gentle pressure until it stops and then a little half-hearted umph and you're done. Better off with a good torque wrench naturally, but until then do not use real muscle on it and remember, the smaller diameter the bolt the less the umph.
 

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Okay, now I cannot for the life of me get the oil cap and filter off. Any suggestions?e
 

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I usually can too, and I've got my guy friend here helping me too and neither of us can get it off. Effin' thing just won't let go haha
 

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The first time you remove it, it's a PITA. Probably overtorqued at the plant. Using a 27mm socket will help a lot.
 

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what oil is used for the 1.4L
If you do as @Bobcubs08 suggests, you'll find several pages that state the 1.4L MultiAir® Turbo engine requires 5W-40 synthetic engine oil:

Text Font Document Line Paper


Text Font Line Number Parallel


Text Font Line Number Document

pages 526, 560, & 561 of the 2013 Dodge Dart Owner's Manual (6[SUP]th[/SUP] Edition)

Your 1.4T LIMITED came from the factory with 4 quarts of PENNZOIL® Ultra EURO 5W-40 full synthetic motor oil and a MOPAR® #68102241AA oil filter cartridge.

My dealer performed the first two oil & filter changes on my 1.4L MultiAir Turbo Dart for FREE !!! ... but I have performed the last three oil changes myself ... using the PENNZOIL® 5W-40 and MOPAR® oil filter cartridges that I purchased via AMAZON:

Product Motor oil


Car Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire

Each of these oil changes cost me a total of $39.82 ...

  • Parts: $35.98 [$32.22 (4 qts. 5W-40) - $6.67 (Pennzoil rebate) + $10.43 (filter cartridge)]
  • Shipping: $0.00 (Amazon Prime FREE shipping)
  • Tax: $3.84 (9% sales tax)
  • Labor: $0.00 (I work cheap! :))

If & when I'm no longer able to purchase the PENNZOIL® at such a discounted price, I'll most likely switch to AMSOIL® (perhaps via @m88s22) ... or maybe RED LINE® (since they sponsor several of my friends racecars).

NOTE: The May 25[SUP]th[/SUP] 2013 Guide to change 1.4L engine oil (with photos) thread by @PelicanHazard provides great step-by-step instructions on changing the oil on your 1.4T Dart.
 

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So...
here's where I'm stumped.
I went to my dealer and he was helpful in finding the oil filter and told me that I need 0-20 f. Syn. Ok. Thank you...
Then saw the post that reads 5-20 f. Syn.
hmmm...
So I checked under the hood and it reads 5-20 f. Syn.
Im so confused.
 

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So...
here's where I'm stumped.
I went to my dealer and he was helpful in finding the oil filter and told me that I need 0-20 f. Syn. Ok. Thank you...
Then saw the post that reads 5-20 f. Syn.
hmmm...
So I checked under the hood and it reads 5-20 f. Syn.
Im so confused.
Use 5-20 synthetic
 

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Why then would the owners manual clearly state that you can only use 5W-20 temporarily? I wouldn't chance it personally.

Reminds me of my 03 VW 1.8T. The OM says you can use 5W-30 (instead of 5W-40) temporarily, if it is all you can find. However, 99.9% of 5W-30 oil is not good enough for turbos and so people we wearing out their engines because of increased friction.
 

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Why did you remove your engine cover? I have done my oil 4 times and my wives twice and haven't had to remove it.
Correct ... You absolutely do NOT have to remove the engine cover in order to remove & replace the oil filter cartridge and refill the crankcase ... but I do ...

It gives me an opportunity to inspect the entire engine block & cylinder head (i.e., check for oil "leaks" and any "blow-by") ... so far so good ... no leaky gaskets (ala my '62 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider's 1.3L DOHC engine) ... and only very minimal blow-by on the cylinder-head cover (valve cover) near the Engine Oil Separator unit:

Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Fuel line
 
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