Dodge Dart Forum banner
41 - 60 of 70 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
No that sounds completely different than what my Dart sounded like. It was more of a more pronounced squealing and then it finally later evolved into a sound like a belt was falling off in the engine with a lot of vibration and shaking of the entire vehicle. Sorry, but on the upside, it doesn't sound as bad as mine, so hopefully it won't be a major issue.
It does sound exactly like mine, though, and this is the thread I started for my DDCT woes, sooo... It's all good, though, I really hope the hydraulic control unit solves my problem. Also, I hope I can figure out how to replace it, since nobody seems to have any answers to my questions. I'm not entirely shocked, most people give up when the DDCT goes awry. It's definitely not an appropriate transmission for an entry-level value-driven compact sedan. It is much better suited to a car like the Alfa Romeo 4C (where it is just as unreliable, but even more fun).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Ok people, I know that somebody here must know the answer to this. How does this hydraulic fitting come off? I can't tell if this is supposed to be a lock-ring fitting or if it just pulls off, and I'm trying not to damage it. Hopefully by the time I get back from washing hydraulic fluid out of my hair (yeah, this job is that fun) somebody more seasoned than me will let me bask in their wisdom.

127448
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,013 Posts
I'm away from home for Easter so no access to the FSM. Is there a C-clip in that groove? Some pics:
127449

127450
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I'm away from home for Easter so no access to the FSM. Is there a C-clip in that groove? Some pics:
View attachment 127449
View attachment 127450
You're too good to us, doing this while you're traveling. No, there's no c-clip or anything like that. It looks a whole lot like pictures I found of the 2015 Mustang clutch line that apparently is not always properly seated from the factory, and apparently the Ford service manual indicates that it just pulls off. It's not installed into any kind of fitting, it's just a flared plastic nipple that is squared off. I think it just slides off, but I think it takes more force than I can apply in such tight confines. I might try removing the filter from the assembly (it's held on by 2 easy-to access Torx screws). They clearly redesigned this line and the fitting at the actuator assembly between 2013 and 2016, because the other end has some kind of fitting with a 90 degree bend that I can only assume is pressed into the actuator assembly. It's flat and round and sits flush against the assembly, but you can turn it and wiggle it around some. If I had any clue how to pop it out without damaging it, I'd take it out from that end like it shows to do. I'm in no rush to do this, I've been waiting for 5 months already, but I don't want to break stuff if I can help it.

Oh, when you do have easy access to the field manual, would you be able to post the section that is referred to here? I'm pretty sure I know what it's referring to in AlfaOBD, but this might let me confirm it.

13.Perform the necessary re-calibration functions (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Transmission Control/Standard Procedure).

Pro tip for anybody doing this: Even though the hydraulic system is depressurized, it isn't empty. You are going to dump hydraulic, especially when you remove the fitting on the back of the accumulator (the big black ball).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Ok people, I know that somebody here must know the answer to this. How does this hydraulic fitting come off? I can't tell if this is supposed to be a lock-ring fitting or if it just pulls off, and I'm trying not to damage it. Hopefully by the time I get back from washing hydraulic fluid out of my hair (yeah, this job is that fun) somebody more seasoned than me will let me bask in their wisdom.

View attachment 127448

seems like it's the other end that is removed and pulled out as a unit?

127451
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
seems like it's the other end that is removed and pulled out as a unit?

View attachment 127451
Yeah, but that's from a manual for a 2016 Dart, I think (both of @alpinegreenneon 's Darts are 2016 models, I believe). Mine is a 2013 and because of that it's different and weird (no really, 2013 Darts are ridiculous sometimes). The fitting on my car is flat with a 90 degree bend pointing toward the front of the car. I have no clue how it comes out, since it isn't screwed in. You can turn it (it feels like it would spin 360 degrees if the hose wasn't attached) and if you pull on it, it separates a tiny bit from the actuator assembly and it can wiggle a bit. It might just be pressed in, but I have no clue. The other end is a bit different too, in that the filter on my car doesn't have a 90 degree bend, the fitting stick straight out of it. The new replacement I received looks like the one in the procedure. They made running changes to the cars, and I've noticed before that I've had to modify the procedures that @alpinegreenneon posts a bit to accommodate. It's not a big deal, but I really do wish I could just unscrew the damned thing and not have to think about it! :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
It's actually from my 2014 500L manual, but I have no idea how much it applies to yours.
The 500L automatic drivetrain (at least until they offered a slushbox automatic) is identical to the Dart 1.4T DDCT. Everything looks to be pretty much in the same place under the hood. I really do wish I had was is pictured in that diagram, though.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,013 Posts
21 - Transmission and Transfer Case / Automatic - C635 DDCT / UNIT, Transmission Hydraulic Power / Removal

REMOVAL

1.Connect the scan tool and depressurize the hydraulic circuit.

2.Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

3.Remove the air cleaner box assembly (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Removal) .

4.Raise the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .

5.Remove the belly pan.

6.Disconnect the wiring harness (1) and (2).
127452

7.Remove and disconnect the pipes (1, 2 and 3) from the valve body and the hydraulic power unit.
127453

8.Remove the mounting screws for the accumulator strap (1) and the hydraulic power unit (2 and 3).
127454

9.Remove the hydraulic power unit (1).
127455

10.Remove the O-ring from the filter pipe fitting and discard.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
So I made progress and got that black line off the filter. Basically, I removed the filter from the assembly (it's held on with 2 Torx screws and is pressed into the pump with an O ring), and then held the line with my left hand and pulled the filter with my right hand. It's a plastic line that snaps onto a rubber piece that you then have to pry over the barbed nipple. It takes a lot of force to pull off.

However, I have another random question. Does anybody know the torque specs for the accumulator? It's really in the way trying to get the mounting bolts off, and I'm thinking it might make more sense to remove it and then do the same with the new assembly (install it without the accumulator and then bolt the accumulator on separately). It has nice big hex bolt welded onto the end of it, and I know it can be purchased separately, although I can't imagine why it would ever need replacing on its own. I'm sure it's torqued down pretty tightly with a lot of threads, what with it being a hydraulic pressure vessel, but its removal would make access to the mounting hardware a lot easier (they're technically reachable, but all but invisible and one of them has an inverted hex head of unknown size).
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,013 Posts
Sorry for the late reply. Voting day here in Wisconsin and I'm Chief Election Inspector in my town.

21 - Transmission and Transfer Case / Automatic - C635 DDCT / UNIT, Transmission Hydraulic Power / Installation

INSTALLATION

1.Install a NEW O-ring to the filter pipe fitting.

2.Install the transmission hydraulic power unit to the locator bushings (1).

3.Install the mounting fasteners for the accumulator strap (1), tighten to 8 N·m (71 in. lbs.).

4.Install the bolts (3) and tighten to 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.).

5.Install the bolt (2) and tighten to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.).

6.Connect the pipe fittings and tighten to 16 N·m (12 ft. lbs.).

7.Connect the wiring harness (1) and (2).

8.Install the belly pan.

9.Lower the vehicle.

10.Install the air cleaner assembly (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Installation) .

11.Connect the negative battery terminal.

12.Fill the transmission hydraulic power unit with fluid (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Capacities and Recommended Fluids/Specifications) .

13.Perform the necessary re-calibration functions (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Transmission Control/Standard Procedure).



21 - Transmission and Transfer Case / Automatic - C635 DDCT / VALVE BODY / Installation

INSTALLATION

1.Apply a 2 to 3 mm wide bead of MOPAR® Gasket Maker (Same as Loctitre 518) to the sealing surface of the case.
127469

2.Install the valve body (1) to the gear case.
127465

3.Install the valve body bolts and tighten to 10 N·m (89 in. lb.).

4.Install the odd gear slave cylinder hydraulic line (1) to the valve body and tighten to 16 N·m (12 ft. lb.).
127466

5.Connect the even gear concentric slave cylinder hydraulic line.
127467

6.Connect the electrical connections at the valve body.
127468

7.Connect the electrical connection (1) for the even gear pressure transducer.
127470

8.Connect the electrical connection (2) for the gear selector position sensor.

9.Connect the electrical Connection (1) for the hydraulic power unit pressure transducer.

10.Connect the electrical Connection (2) for the sensor module.
127471


11.Install the belly pan.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,013 Posts
The torque specs for the DDCT
127472


127473
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Random thought on the procedure. This step:

3.Remove the air cleaner box assembly (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Removal) .
I think this is a mistake. There is no reason whatsoever for removing the air cleaner box. It's in a different part of the engine bay than everything else you work on. However, what does make sense is to remove the cold side intercooler pipe, since it gets in the way of removing the bolts holding the assembly to the car, and it pretty much prevents access to the cap for the hydraulic fluid tank.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Well everybody, good news and bad news. I was able to replace the Hydraulic Control Module. The process posted by @alpinegreenneon is... well, it's not exactly 100% accurate or even possible to follow. There's a 4th fastener holding the unit to the car that isn't mentioned at all (fortunately it's obvious). There is no second wire harness anywhere near this unit that needs to be disconnected. You can't remove the two fasteners to remove the support strap for the accumulator. It is literally impossible to access them with the accumulator in place. That said, it isn't necessary to remove them, you can just loosen the strap. I removed the accumulator from the assembly (it has a big nut welded into it, I think 22mm, but I had to use I think a 7/8 because all my sockets went up to 21mm), which makes things easier, but realized later that it isn't necessary. The instructions to remove the airbox make no sense and wouldn't help you. You are never working on the passenger side of the car. Removing the cold side intercooler pipe would help, but I couldn't figure out the mechanism by which it attaches to the intercooler. It clips into place, I think, but I've never seen anything like that connector. I can imagine that techs probably don't like working on this car. It's so inconsistent in the use of fasteners and connectors. There are at least 7 different kinds of clamps or clips just holding hoses in place in this car. As for fasteners, most (but not all) of the bolts are E-Torx, but they use both Torx and hex willy-nilly for screw-type fasteners, and sizing is not consistent.

Anyway, enough of that. The bad news, unfortunately, is that it didn't solve the problem. The car is still making its horrible noises, and frankly I'm done with it. It's probably something internal in the transmission, and that's more than I am willing to take on for this car. It will be going up for sale as-in in May on its 17" steelies and winter tires. I will probably be selling the 18" wheels/tires separately (they're in ok conditions, some curb rash and chips, but they all roll straight and true).
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,013 Posts
Sorry to hear this, I was really hoping this was the problem. I admire you for trying and I have to say, you will be missed. The other member @JOE D, said his mechanic replaced the odd gear slave cylinder and that fixed it. As frustrated as you are, maybe in a few days you might reconsider. Look up some prices after reading the procedure. You might consider the cost of a monthly car payment in your decision. I doubt the mecanic used the special tool but you can ask @JOE D
06 - Clutch / CYLINDER, Clutch Slave / Removal

DDCT, ODD GEARS

Special Tools: Click to display a list of tools used in this procedure

1.Using the scan tool, perform the hydraulic circuit bleed procedure (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Transmission Control/Standard Procedure).

2.Remove the battery tray (Refer to 08 - Electrical/Battery System/TRAY, Battery/Removal) .

3.Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting/Standard Procedure) .

4.Remove the Left Hand (LH) front wheel (Refer to 22 - Tires and Wheels/Removal) .

5.Remove the LH front wheel house splash shield (Refer to 23 - Body/Exterior/SHIELD, Splash, Wheel House/Removal) .

6.Remove the belly pan (Refer to 13 - Frame and Bumpers/Under Body Protection/BELLY PAN/Removal) .

7.Remove the four tunnel support brace bolts (1) and the tunnel support brace.
127506


8.Position the floor jack (1) under the transmission (2).
127507

9.Lift the transmission to relieve tension on the upper mount.

10.Remove the upper transmission mount bolts (2) holding the upper transmission mount to the upper transmission mount bracket (3).
127508


11.Lower the transmission until it rests just above the load beam to provide clearance for the odd gear clutch slave cylinder removal tool.

12.Remove the ground cable bolt (1) from the transmission side cover and position the ground cable aside.
127509


13.Remove the odd gear slave cylinder hydraulic line fastening clip (1) and discard.
127510

14.Remove the odd gear slave cylinder hydraulic line from the retention clip (2).

15.Remove the odd gear slave cylinder hydraulic line (3) from the slave cylinder, plug off the line with a rubber cap and position aside.

16.Disconnect the odd gear slave cylinder electrical connector (1).
127511


17.Remove the odd gear slave cylinder bolts (1).
127512


18.Remove the odd gear slave cylinder dust cover (1) by hand.
127513


19.Turn the odd gear slave cylinder (1) clockwise (CW) 45°– 60°.
127514


20.Install the two Remover / Installer, CSC Valve Remover / Installer, CSC Valve 2012400210 support posts (1) and tighten by hand.
127515
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,013 Posts
21.Install the Remover / Installer, CSC Valve Remover / Installer, CSC Valve 2012400210 hook arm (1) in the upper bolt hole.
127516


22.Install the Remover / Installer, CSC Valve Remover / Installer, CSC Valve 2012400210 puller tool (1) on the odd gear slave cylinder by inserting the hook arm in its elongated hole, and install the support pins in the holes adjacent to the hook arm. Tighten the hook arm fastener (2) hand tight.
127517


23.Install the Remover / Installer, CSC Valve Remover / Installer, CSC Valve 2012400210 hook arm (1) and tighten the fastener (2) hand tight. Rotate the push bar (3) CW onto the support posts.
127518


24.Tighten the Remover / Installer, CSC Valve Remover / Installer, CSC Valve 2012400210 support post fasteners (1) hand tight.
127519


25.
NOTE:
Do not over tighten the puller tool bolt.
NOTE:
To prevent personal injury do not place fingers between odd gear slave cylinder housing and the transmission case.
Tighten the Remover / Installer, CSC Valve Remover / Installer, CSC Valve 2012400210 puller tool bolt (1) CW until the bolt bottoms out on the washer or becomes tight on the odd gear slave cylinder piston.
127520


26.
NOTE:
To prevent personal injury do not place fingers between odd gear slave cylinder housing and the transmission case.
Verify the plastic shield is recessed in the transmission case. If it is not, use a pick or equivalent, and move the black plastic shield (1) away from the odd gear slave cylinder housing and back into recess key in the transmission case.
127521


27.
NOTE:
To prevent personal injury do not place fingers between odd gear slave cylinder housing and the transmission case.
NOTE:
For the clamp tool to fit correctly there will be approximately a 12.7 mm (0.5 in) gap between the odd gear slave cylinder and the transmission.
Verify the odd gear slave cylinder has pulled off the transmission enough by using the Remover / Installer, CSC Valve Remover / Installer, CSC Valve 2012400210 handle (1) end of the clamp tool as a gauge. If the handle fits loosely between the transmission and the odd gear slave cylinder proceed to step 22. If the handle does not fit, perform the following steps:
a.Loosen the support post fasteners but do not remove them.
b.Loosen the support posts approximately a half turn.
c.Tighten the support post fasteners by hand.
d.Verify the odd gear slave cylinder has pulled off the transmission enough by using the handle of the clamp tool as a gauge. If the handle fits loosely between the transaxle and the odd gear slave cylinder proceed to step 22. If the handle does not fit loosely, repeat above steps.
127522


28.
NOTE:
The clamp tool halves should come together until the handles almost contact each other with no more than a 2 mm gap.
Install the Remover / Installer, CSC Valve Remover / Installer, CSC Valve 2012400210 clamp tool halves and the fasteners, tighten the clamp tool fasteners (1) until tight with a wrench.
127523


29.Loosen the puller tool bolt (1).
127524


30.Loosen the support post fasteners (1).
127525
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,013 Posts
31.Turn the push bar counter clockwise (CCW) and remove the support posts (1).
127526


32.
NOTE:
Do not over tighten the puller tool bolt.
Tighten the puller tool bolt CW until the bolt bottoms out on the washer or becomes tight on the odd gear slave cylinder piston.
127527


33.
NOTE:
The puller tool should rotate freely after the odd gear slave cylinder is broke free from the rod. If it rotates tight CCW then tighten the clamp tool fasteners more.
Remove the odd gear slave cylinder (1) from the transmission by turning the puller tool (1) CCW.
127528


34.
NOTE:
For installation, take note on how the puller tool is installed on the odd gear slave cylinder prior to removing the puller tool from the odd gear slave cylinder.
Loosen the puller tool bolt, remove the hook arms and remove the puller tool (1) from the odd gear slave cylinder (2).
127529
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Sorry to hear this, I was really hoping this was the problem. I admire you for trying and I have to say, you will be missed. The other member @JOE D, said his mechanic replaced the odd gear slave cylinder and that fixed it. As frustrated as you are, maybe in a few days you might reconsider. Look up some prices after reading the procedure. You might consider the cost of a monthly car payment in your decision. I doubt the mecanic used the special tool but you can ask @JOE D
Yeah, I was really hoping this was the issue, because I do love driving the Dart, and the DDCT is a stupid amount of fun when it's in good working order. I still feel pretty good, though. That was a much harder job than the "procedure" would lead you to believe, and one of the most challenging car repairs I've taken on, and I found a way to get it done despite having to make it up as I went along (not your fault, you post what you have, you've never worked on a DDCT Dart, and if anybody else has ever done this job, they didn't comment on it). The only comparable thing I've done before (in terms of challenge) was replacing the starter in my mother-in-law's 1998 Mercury Mystique. The Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique is notorious for being very, very challenging to work on. It didn't help that the electrical connector to the starter required a special tool (only available to Ford dealerships) to unlock and disconnect. Assuming you didn't just break the lock, which I ended up doing.

I won't be taking on another car payment right now either way. My wife and I are both working from home with no change in sight, and we also have a 2014 Grand Caravan that only has 71,000 kms. It sucks to drive, but works fine and it's definitely useful when you need a big box to carry stuff or people. It likes to develop coolant leaks, but that's because it has the worst hose clamps on the big coolant hoses between the engine and radiator. It was dripping coolant again a couple of weeks ago, and when I squeezed the clamp with my fingers (it's meant to be loosened with pliers), it snapped in half and fell off. I put a $0.99 work clamp on just like I did to another one last year and problem solved. It's boring, it's ugly, the paint is bad on it (bubbles in the hood), and it has hilariously bad build quality, but it was cheap and with 1 daughter going into her last year of college and a second just about to start college in the fall, having the minivan with the most interior cargo space is sometimes very helpful. Besides that, I have a very nice bicycle that hasn't seen a lot of use since I got my Dart. My waistline and my doctor would appreciate me using it more. :)
 
41 - 60 of 70 Posts
Top