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I've been trying to find you an engine cover at the junkyards. Seems like any front end hit cracks the engine cover. I will keep looking.
Thanks. I am going to try a more aggressive approach to fix my cover. IA going to drill several holes right through the crack, and a few holes a bit beyond that area. I am then going to apply JB Weld 2 part epoxy on top and bottom and through the holes. I am hoping this might create a more secure fix.

Last time I tried to fix it, I only applied the epoxy on the bottom and tried to get some in the crack. The epoxy is still strong underneath, but it gave way right on the crack (which I believe is due to not enough epoxy being able to adhere to the damaged area).

Nothing ventured, nothing gained and I can't really make it any worse.

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Right now, there are no Darts at the closest yard. If I find a cracked cover, I'll try to get a good chunk of it. You could then use a solder iron or plastic welder and that should work better than epoxy. There are some plastic welding videos you might want to check out.
 

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Painted the engine bay front cover to match my fuse cover and engineer cover (not shown). Now I just need to permanently fix my cracked engine cover. Got a new idea that I am going to try. If it works, I will post results.


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Are you looking for a 2.4 engine cover? Im heading to pick n pull to grab some stuff off a Dart with a 2.4 I can grab the engine cover if its not cracked.
 

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Are you looking for a 2.4 engine cover? Im heading to pick n pull to grab some stuff off a Dart with a 2.4 I can grab the engine cover if its not cracked.
If it is cracked, he still might be able to use a chunk of the plastic to plastic weld it.
 

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If it is cracked, he still might be able to use a chunk of the plastic to plastic weld it.
Just tried my second JB Weld fix. Need to let it setup. Fingers crossed. If that doesn't work, I will be actively looking for a replacement, or a chunk to plastic "weld" into the existing cover.

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Just tried my second JB Weld fix. Need to let it setup. Fingers crossed. If that doesn't work, I will be actively looking for a replacement, or a chunk to plastic "weld" into the existing cover.

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Ok i'll pull it when i go cracked or not! I'll send u a Pm when i grab it.
 

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You might try JB's radiator epoxy repair kit. It adds a piece of material that significantly reinforces the epoxy. Worth a try if you can't get a replacement. I plan on hitting our pull it yard soon and I know there are two Darts there. Which engine do you have?
 

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I have the 2.4L with the engine cover that "snaps/presses" on, not the one that bolts on.

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Nice. What's your initial thoughts?

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It should have come with a bolt for 2.4 Liter engine's but other than that I love it. I haven't tried the race configuration yet. I did like that the parts are stronger but also lighter than the OEM parts.
 

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Alriiiiiiiiiiiiight! If anyone is wondering I'm working on a 1.4L Aero
So...lets start this story with I've been working on my car bit by bit for months now.
Started off selling some parts I had on my car so I can get better/nicer parts.

Got rid of my 3" De-Cat Down-pipe and just received my resonator down-pipe last night and already installed. Basically is just a step below straight pipe sound right now as i'm running a 2.5" down-pipe w/ resonator to the stock B pipe which I plan on getting a custom one made to be 2.5 inlet to 2.25 out to match up to my straight pipe MPX exhaust. The car is a sleeper but sounds pissed as soon as you down a gear and hit it without that raspy "V-Tec" style raspy-ness the car has when it's fully straight piped.

Also sold my Injen hot/cold pipes and got the Silicone HPSI ones instead in red, intake temps at the throttle body are usually about 10+ degrees cooler now with the silicone hoses than compared to similar weather conditions when I had the aluminum Injen pipes. I don't even have proper heat management for my turbo and exhaust right now as I have yet to wrap them, so I'm expecting 20+ cooler temps if not more in the future when I get around to it, also i'm excited for the look of it too!

Sold my K&N Typhoon C.A.I to try and get RPM's intake (didn't have any) but found that would have heat soaked the intake air so opted for the Injen C.A.I (TRUE C.A.I and not the short RAM). Sound is amazing, not as aggressive "Wooshing" as with short RAM but intake air is cooler now, BIG +++. Plus the injen is a light polished steel while the K&N was very thin aluminum therefore the clamp force on the inducer side was very weak do to potential to warp/bend the pipe, so i'm glad for more clamp force now. I modified the stock inlet piping that fed the stock air filter by cutting the "Bulbs" and making them straight piped for maximum flow and modified the feed from the bumper to accept more air and force it into the fender well to pull cool air in directly to my intake filter, I will modify it further down the road to marry up right next to the filter so that It pulls fresh air from the front bumper grill.

I'm constantly tweaking my car and playing around with learning new things and doing months of research for some aspects of my build thus far. I will post pictures of the current engine bay setup I have later today but bit by bit it's coming together nicely. Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about MODS!!!
 

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I have the 2.4L with the engine cover that "snaps/presses" on, not the one that bolts on.

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I finally got by the You Pull It yard today. They had two Darts but neither one had anything left from the engine bay. Sorry.
 

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I finally got by the You Pull It yard today. They had two Darts but neither one had anything left from the engine bay. Sorry.
Thanks for looking, but so far so good on the repair. I drove over 600 miles this week alone, in weather in the high 70's on some days, and repair is holding well. Have two small spots where clear coat bubbled a touch, but it is better than I could have hoped for so far.

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I would give you mine but it's bolt on....
 
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