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Just bought my oil and filter tonight for an oil change. Temps are to be high 50's this weekend.
 

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Finally got the Dart in for the shifter bushing installation.
 

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Got the oil and filter changed today. Good thing I did it because when I pulled the filter access door it had oil on it. Upon further inspection I found the oil filter loose enough to remove without a filter wrench. Good old dealer work......
20191117_132936.jpg
 

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While the oil was draining for an oil change, I pulled off the bumper and removed the AGS and the engine aero cover (it's looking pretty ratty anyway). I drilled a hole through the housing where there is a divot that holds it together and drove a screw so that the head stops the motor. I used zip ties to tie it down on the plastic panel that the bottom of the bumper attaches to. It's working without CELs, the motor isn't going anywhere, and coolant temps are now staying within about 5 degrees of 170 instead of fluctuating by 20+ degrees and hovering around 190-200 (it's a 1.4T). It was night and cooler by the time I got it out on the road, so it will be interesting to see how it does in the daytime blazing heat and humidity. It will be interesting to see how this works when winter rolls around. Here's the finished product before reinstalling the bumper.

126225
 

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While the oil was draining for an oil change, I pulled off the bumper and removed the AGS and the engine aero cover (it's looking pretty ratty anyway). I drilled a hole through the housing where there is a divot that holds it together and drove a screw so that the head stops the motor. I used zip ties to tie it down on the plastic panel that the bottom of the bumper attaches to. It's working without CELs, the motor isn't going anywhere, and coolant temps are now staying within about 5 degrees of 170 instead of fluctuating by 20+ degrees and hovering around 190-200 (it's a 1.4T). It was night and cooler by the time I got it out on the road, so it will be interesting to see how it does in the daytime blazing heat and humidity. It will be interesting to see how this works when winter rolls around. Here's the finished product before reinstalling the bumper.

View attachment 126225
Keep us updated with your findings and performance of this mod.

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Check engine light came on after my oil change. Everything was fine until yesterday afternoon when I went up to 7-11 to grab a slurpee. I made it 1/2 mile down the road when the engine started studdering and struggling to gain rpm's. I immediately limped my way back home. I knew what the problem was because I've been putting it off like my oil change. It was my spark plugs. I ran those coppers hard during the quarantine lockdown and put over 20k on them including a high speed rally in Northern Michigan. When I pulled the spark plugs out, they were gapped to almost 0.060. I typically run them at 0.049. They were also covered in white soot, indicating oil in the combustion chamber....lol no surprise to that with a 2.4 tigershark.

One thing I learned during my high speed fun is that since I removed my under aero tray, the wheel well plastics need to be reinforced with zip ties. Otherwise the plastics grab the wind resistance and get pushed into your tires. I had tires that had a lot of tread left in the front and now they wore down from the wheel well plastics rubbing into them.
 

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There's one in Santee,Ca too. Great prices - 8$ double-feature. They even have a battery jumper for those who drain their batteries with their car audio systems (uses a radio frequency for the audio)





You do realize that there is absolutely no performance change with an increase in octane number, right? Does nothing to keep the engine cleaner, healthier or whatever. Just letting you know, cause I'm sure you don't want to be spending the money for nothing.
Maybe you have not experienced any difference, but I have. My car gets better gas mileage with a higher octane gas. And depends on what gas station I get it from also. Shell seems to be the best in my area
 

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Keep us updated with your findings and performance of this mod.

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As requested, an update... Removing the AGS and the aero belly panel makes a significant difference to engine temps. Since making these changes, extreme measure have been required to get above 180 degrees. I got over 190 yesterday by going full boost in 6th gear on the highway until I was going... well, I'd rather not say how fast and then immediately getting off the highway into stop-and-go traffic. It still only took a few minutes to get back down to 170. It hasn't been quite as hot out, this was at a "mere" 90 degrees atmospheric. I have no idea about fuel economy, neither my daughter nor I drive the Dart with an eye toward maximizing MPGs and I've never paid much attention to that. It's particularly good with the turbo, because the AGS completely blocks the intercooler when it closes, which can cause it to get heat-soaked and drastically increase IATs. Cooler IATs and no heat-soaking of the intercooler makes for much more predictable throttle response and that "shoving" feeling of 20+ psi of boost coming on strong and hard consistently. It also makes the air-conditioning work better (my wife doesn't like open windows).

My only concern is that I am planning on getting the Eurocompulsion tune (and some other mods) some time soon, and one of the steps installing the tune is letting the car warm up at idle to 90 degrees C, which is 196 degrees F, which they consider "normal" operating temperature. My car idles at around 170 degrees now (which doesn't even open the thermostat). I guess I can cover up the grills or something and kind of reattach the belly panel to pump those numbers up (and even pop the ugly-ass engine cover back on and rig the hood liner into position). I'm also still skeptical about the car's ability to warm up on cold winter days, where it has always struggled a bit.
 

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Check engine light came on after my oil change. Everything was fine until yesterday afternoon when I went up to 7-11 to grab a slurpee. I made it 1/2 mile down the road when the engine started studdering and struggling to gain rpm's. I immediately limped my way back home. I knew what the problem was because I've been putting it off like my oil change. It was my spark plugs. I ran those coppers hard during the quarantine lockdown and put over 20k on them including a high speed rally in Northern Michigan. When I pulled the spark plugs out, they were gapped to almost 0.060. I typically run them at 0.049. They were also covered in white soot, indicating oil in the combustion chamber....lol no surprise to that with a 2.4 tigershark.

One thing I learned during my high speed fun is that since I removed my under aero tray, the wheel well plastics need to be reinforced with zip ties. Otherwise the plastics grab the wind resistance and get pushed into your tires. I had tires that had a lot of tread left in the front and now they wore down from the wheel well plastics rubbing into them.
IF you're in Michigan is there a reason you don't run the under car aero tray? I know it's not much but every little bit helps for the bad roads here
 

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IF you're in Michigan is there a reason you don't run the under car aero tray? I know it's not much but every little bit helps for the bad roads here
I took it off as well as the engine cover to lower the engine bay temps. The loss of power when the coolant temp reaches above 200F was too much for me, I prefer power not MPG.
 

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I took it off as well as the engine cover to lower the engine bay temps. The loss of power when the coolant temp reaches above 200F was too much for me, I prefer power not MPG.
DO you have a 1.4? You shouldn't lose any power for the 2.0 and 2.4
 

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2.4 tigershark. It's quite noticeable for me. Plus with the cooler engine bay, the stock intake piping doesn't get as heat soaked as before.
When i had my gt i never had heat soak in 100+ degree and 80+ humidity. Yes the engine and everything get hot but it was never enough to worry about heat soak like you would on a turbo
 

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When i had my gt i never had heat soak in 100+ degree and 80+ humidity. Yes the engine and everything get hot but it was never enough to worry about heat soak like you would on a turbo
The plastic intake tube gets hot enough that it will burn your hand if you try to touch it. It directly affects performance because it's heating up the intake tube and the air that passes through it.
 

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UPDATE: Engine developed the same hesitation and stuttering issue yesterday. My only thought was it has to be the ignition coils as a few other members on this site have had the same issue. Ordered 4 new Delphi coils, installed them today and so far so good. The top of the coil is slightly larger (More powahh haha) so I will see if performance remains the same.

For the past month or two I have noticed hesitation at idle when reversing out of my driveway. It felt like the car was running an aftermarket camshaft, going up and down on the rpm's slightly. After replacing all 4 coils, this has gone away and now is smooth as butter while reversing. Fingers crossed, I hope this fixes my Dart.

My conclusion is this oven of an engine bay is literally cooking all the electronics. I am only at 71k miles.
 

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UPDATE: Engine developed the same hesitation and stuttering issue yesterday. My only thought was it has to be the ignition coils as a few other members on this site have had the same issue. Ordered 4 new Delphi coils, installed them today and so far so good. The top of the coil is slightly larger (More powahh haha) so I will see if performance remains the same.

For the past month or two I have noticed hesitation at idle when reversing out of my driveway. It felt like the car was running an aftermarket camshaft, going up and down on the rpm's slightly. After replacing all 4 coils, this has gone away and now is smooth as butter while reversing. Fingers crossed, I hope this fixes my Dart.

My conclusion is this oven of an engine bay is literally cooking all the electronics. I am only at 71k miles.
Share your thoughts on performance and if this does solve your issue over time. I have been looking at coils and wondering if it is worth performing preventative maintenance and replacing them by the time I hit 60k miles.

Also, can you share the P/N of the coils?

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Share your thoughts on performance and if this does solve your issue over time. I have been looking at coils and wondering if it is worth performing preventative maintenance and replacing them by the time I hit 60k miles.

Also, can you share the P/N of the coils?

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I will be driving my 500 mile round trip route tomorrow, I will let you know what I think of them. I bought them at the local auto parts store but I just checked RockAuto and it's half what I paid, ughhh! $25 compared to $55 at the store.

Delphi #GN10738
 
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