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My Syked 2.4 ECU was delivered today. I removed my spectrum and replaced my plugs on Monday. Looking forward to installing the tune
 

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My Syked 2.4 ECU was delivered today. I removed my spectrum and replaced my plugs on Monday. Looking forward to installing the tune
Nice to hear, I might buy it during winter if I ever get dyno number with the header...
 

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My Syked 2.4 ECU was delivered today. I removed my spectrum and replaced my plugs on Monday. Looking forward to installing the tune
You get a chance to do this yet? Dying to get you opinion.

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You get a chance to do this yet? Dying to get you opinion.

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I’ve been holding off on giving my opinion on the tune because I’ve been having some issues with the car and I’m trying to isolate whether it’s the car or the tune. We’ve also gotten our cold Canadian winter weather early so that’s another factor.

Pedal response is much better and is similar to using a go pedal but I find it’s jerky and cuts in and out when you first take off. The car seems better in the lower RPMs but seems like it’s hesitating in the upper RPMs. From what I’ve read from others with the tune this doesn’t seem to be the case so I believe it’s my car.

My idle is rougher than before and it sounds like it’s misfiring. I replaced the spark plugs with new champions coppers (RE16MC) about 200km before I put the tune on. They’re gapped to the stock gap of 0.047. I’m thinking that it’s either my spark plugs that are the issue or my coils may be going out (the car has 103k kms). I’ve noticed the idle also fluctuates when using electronics such as the power locks. I don’t remember this happening on the stock tune but I’d need to swap it back to be sure.

I’m planning on changing the oil, cleaning my intake filter, checking the plugs and coils and then seeing how the car performs.

I’m still happy with the tune and the car is better than it was stock. I’m sure once I get these issues sorted out then it’ll be even better
 
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I’ve been holding off on giving my opinion on the tune because I’ve been having some issues with the car and I’m trying to isolate whether it’s the car or the tune. We’ve also gotten our cold Canadian winter weather early so that’s another factor.

Pedal response is much better and is similar to using a go pedal but I find it’s jerky and cuts in and out when you first take off. The car seems better in the lower RPMs but seems like it’s hesitating in the upper RPMs. From what I’ve read from others with the tune this doesn’t seem to be the case so I believe it’s my car.

My idle is rougher than before and it sounds like it’s misfiring. I replaced the spark plugs with new champions coppers (RE16MC) about 200km before I put the tune on. They’re gapped to the stock gap of 0.047. I’m thinking that it’s either my spark plugs that are the issue or my coils may be going out (the car has 103k kms). I’ve noticed the idle also fluctuates when using electronics such as the power locks. I don’t remember this happening on the stock tune but I’d need to swap it back to be sure.

I’m planning on changing the oil, cleaning my intake filter, checking the plugs and coils and then seeing how the car performs.

I’m still happy with the tune and the car is better than it was stock. I’m sure once I get these issues sorted out then it’ll be even better
Really appreciate the feedback. Been on pins and needles waiting for your opinion (and I will continue to be for further updates). I hope you isolate the issue you are having and your Dart is running smooth again.

One last thing, what current bolt-on/mods are you currently running?

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Really appreciate the feedback. Been on pins and needles waiting for your opinion (and I will continue to be for further updates). I hope you isolate the issue you are having and your Dart is running smooth again.

One last thing, what current bolt-on/mods are you currently running?

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HPSI intake and Ram air
Heart throb exhaust
MPX ported throttle body
MPX lightweight water pulley pump
RRM lightweight crank pulley
Copper spark plugs

I’m essentially full bolt ons minus the header
 
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HPSI intake and Ram air
Heart throb exhaust
MPX ported throttle body
MPX lightweight water pulley pump
RRM lightweight crank pulley
Copper spark plugs

I’m essentially full bolt ons minus the header
Thanks. By the way, we're you seeing any of these issues before the ECM swap?

Lastly, how hard is it to swap the ECM? Have never done it any vehicle and tend to get a bit nervous when I mess with the non-mechanical parts of my car.

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Thanks. By the way, we're you seeing any of these issues before the ECM swap?

Lastly, how hard is it to swap the ECM? Have never done it any vehicle and tend to get a bit nervous when I mess with the non-mechanical parts of my car.

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I wasn’t having the issues before but I want to swap the stock ECU into the car to double check. If the coil packs were on their way out I think the remapped spark tables with the tune would exasperate the problem.

The car did perform better after a couple hundred KMs and doing a throttle relearn and proxy alignment with Alfaobd.

The ECU is really easy to swap. Disconnect the negative cable on the battery, loosen 3 nuts and disconnect the 2 ECU connectors.
 

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I wasn’t having the issues before but I want to swap the stock ECU into the car to double check. If the coil packs were on their way out I think the remapped spark tables with the tune would exasperate the problem.

The car did perform better after a couple hundred KMs and doing a throttle relearn and proxy alignment with Alfaobd.

The ECU is really easy to swap. Disconnect the negative cable on the battery, loosen 3 nuts and disconnect the 2 ECU connectors.
I am going to continue to hit with questions as they pop in my head; please answer them at your own convenience. Did you perform the Proxi Alignment out of necessity, or out of best practice. I know there was another thread on here where someone else was instructed to do this due to 3 codes being present (but with no CEL).

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I am going to continue to hit with questions as they pop in my head; please answer them at your own convenience. Did you perform the Proxi Alignment out of necessity, or out of best practice. I know there was another thread on here where someone else was instructed to do this due to 3 codes being present (but with no CEL).

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I did it as best practise because I have Alfaobd. I installed the tune, cleared all the codes and performed a proxy alignment.

I’ve seen others report that they lost cruise control with the 2.4 tune. It no longer pops up on my instrument panel but mine still functions. I’m just guessing but I’m assuming the ECU mismatch code that is present when swapping prior to doing a proxy alignment is what is preventing the cruise control from working.
 
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I did it as best practise because I have Alfaobd. I installed the tune, cleared all the codes and performed a proxy alignment.

I’ve seen others report that they lost cruise control with the 2.4 tune. It no longer pops up on my instrument panel but mine still functions. I’m just guessing but I’m assuming the ECU mismatch code that is present when swapping prior to doing a proxy alignment is what is preventing the cruise control from working.
Once again, thanks for the info. Really itching to pull the trigger on this purchase. I have the Alfa-ODB, but have never done a Proxi. Will need to research that.

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Once again, thanks for the info. Really itching to pull the trigger on this purchase. I have the Alfa-ODB, but have never done a Proxi. Will need to research that.

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As long as you have the correct obd2 module (Obdlink MX) it’s really easy.

Connect to the BCM, under active diagnostics chose proxy alignment. Click start and wait for it to finish and then cycle the car on/off
 
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As long as you have the correct obd2 module (Obdlink MX) it’s really easy.

Connect to the BCM, under active diagnostics chose proxy alignment. Click start and wait for it to finish and then cycle the car on/off
One concern I have about the Proxi, is that my OBdlink has only been connecting to my AlfaOBD app (and my phone via Bluetooth) if I have the car pbysically running. It will not connect simply by having the ignition in the run position. I have reservations running a Proxi with the car actually running, or not trusting that the app is going to stay connected to the OBDlink.

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The problem can be your android device. Have you tried using a different device? If that device shares the same email, then Playstore will not ask for money when you download alfaOBD to another device. Another possibility is the OBDLinkMX firmware. It is possible to update the firmware.
 
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The problem can be your android device. Have you tried using a different device? If that device shares the same email, then Playstore will not ask for money when you download alfaOBD to another device. Another possibility is the OBDLinkMX firmware. It is possible to update the firmware.
How do you update the firmware? Is there a way to push the update via Bluetooth?

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Thanks. I installed the app/s on my old phone (which is notorious for bad Bluetooth) and see if that works better with both older phone and updated firmware.
 

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Thanks. I installed the app/s on my old phone (which is notorious for bad Bluetooth) and see if that works better with both older phone and updated firmware.
Firmware update was quick and easy. Embarrassed that I did not even realize the ODBlink had updatable firmware. Thanks for the information and guidance.

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Oil Change!!! Finally not below freezing so I can actually be out in the driveway some what comfortably. I also disconnected the negative on the battery for two hours to reset the ECM for my RRM Spectrum module.


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