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Discussion Starter #1
Let's say I'm cruising at 75mph and I press the accelerator to in increase speed and I get a vibration. When I back off the throttle it goes away.

I'm running Michelin super sports only a few months old. Any feedback?

Thanks guys
 

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Is the vibration in the steering wheel? If so, it's likely wheel balance. Try putting the front wheels in the rear and rear in front. If it helps, get the wheel balance rechecked. If the vibration is from the engine, it could be the engine mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, the vibration is not in the steering wheel. It may be to some minuscule degree but the real deal is feeling it through the body as one might expect. It's definitely up front, wheels rotated last week in rear-to-front / front-to-rear manor. No change. This leads to mechanical as stated above.
 

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Does it also shake/vibrate, maybe even a little, while sitting at a stop light? It may be more noticeable at first start up, especially with the rear defroster on, or A/C running. If you have this also, it is probably your engine mounts. I am about to replace mine as well. Like you, I've got a slight vibration at higher speeds which will go away when letting off the gas.

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Let's say I'm cruising at 75mph and I press the accelerator to in increase speed and I get a vibration. When I back off the throttle it goes away.

I'm running Michelin super sports only a few months old. Any feedback?

Thanks guys
I'm going to say motor mounts on this one...if they're bad you should notice a huge difference in vibration between a gear and neutral as well as the vibration at speed. Could also be an axel I guess but less likely.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, she does vibrate a bit at idle at a stop light. Along with some extra front end noise I'm inclined to think mounts as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So... what is the best method to determine which of the three or more mounts are faulty?

Thanks guys!

-zr
 

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I'm not sure if there is a visual indication or a shake test of some sort or not. Personally, I'm just going to replace all 3 of them so I don't have to worry about another one going bad later on. In my case at least, I feel they are probably all going out in one way or another. The car shakes way more than it should is what leads me to believe that.

Another member said the bottom mount is kinda a pain when putting the new one in, so not looking forward to that one. The left and right mounts don't sound like they'll be too hard, just need to support the engine with a floorjack when changing those out.

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I'm not sure if there is a visual indication or a shake test of some sort or not. Personally, I'm just going to replace all 3 of them so I don't have to worry about another one going bad later on. In my case at least, I feel they are probably all going out in one way or another. The car shakes way more than it should is what leads me to believe that.

Another member said the bottom mount is kinda a pain when putting the new one in, so not looking forward to that one. The left and right mounts don't sound like they'll be too hard, just need to support the engine with a floorjack when changing those out.

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Most places I looked at for a "how to" highly recommended NOT putting any lifting device directly against the engine. Do some investigating before you do it.
 

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I never had a problem putting a floor jack under an engine. Just use a short piece of 2x4 between the oil pan and the jack to help distribute the weight. Never dented an oil pan yet.
 

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I've had this issue as well, and it's progressed to the point of severe knocking and shaking under regular driving. From what I understand it's the cv axle, as mine doesn't vibrate under idle conditions.

It basically feels like a wheel is about to fly off. I would suggest getting your cv axles checked. When I searched this issue I saw many posts from 2013 and 2014 about it being a cv axle.
 

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The vibration you are describing is normally one of the cv joints going bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Today I had the chance to investigate the right front wheel area. This appears to be the source of the vibration on acceleration. In addition I've been looking for a clunk noise from the right side as well. So everything points to this area. Based on research here I need to check tie rods, ball joints, brake caliper play (there was a TSB for earlier models), play in the cv shaft, damaged boots etc.

I rocked the wheel at 3 and 9, solid. Rocked the wheel at 12 and 6, solid. So I start removing the lug nuts and I come across one that is loose! Tight enough to stay in place however. I continued to take it out. Felt like it was spinning against some rust. No biggie. Happened many times before on many vehicles. When I finally got it out it was stripped.

It doesn't come out stripped unless it was stripped going in.

20190611_124758.jpg

The last time the wheels were removed was in January for a rotation and this was done by Tire Kingdom. I paid them a visit immediately. The fella I talked to told me that between the rotation in January and today, it stripped itself. I told him that was ludicrous. I asked him, "so your telling me that machines the world over suffer from bolts that randomly strip themselves, IN PLACE?" He didn't have much of a reply. He kept countering with well it's been five months. I told him that was irrelevant. It doesn't matter if you stripped it today, yesterday, twelve moths ago. It's stripped!

He also stated that if it was loose over the course of five months that it would have fallen out. I countered with, "Well, it didn't fall out, it's right here!" (showing him the picture). He stated, "How do I know that you didn't do it? Or someone else removed the wheel. I wasn't there when you took the lug nut out. When you first found it loose and it was a little stiff coming out, you should have come to us right away!", I said who thinks like that and what good would it do? You will say the same thing, "How do I know you didn't bla bla bla."

I told him, the last people to remove the wheel was Tire Kingdom. Bolts don't strip themselves and that this must be remedied. In addition, there are no weights on the wheel. Your cheap weights flew off somewhere. He said that some wheels might not need weights. I said I am aware of that but there are two locations on the wheel where there were weights. The factory weights, and the weights you put on when I bought the tires.

This manager does his best to redirect and deflect. I don't fall for that. We've made arrangements to bring it in tomorrow after ten am.

10-1 the guy that did the rotation stripped it going in and decided to snug it best he could. And he would do this because when the lug nut is stripped you can probably bet that the hub is stripped. That's MONEY and he didn't want to take the hit. The employee knew this and quietly moved on. Sending me on my way with a stripped lug nut.

These people irritate me.
 

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That lug bolt is about $5 new from Dodge. Not worth the grief arguing and making a nuisance of yourself, even though you are in the right. Buy your self another and learn to do your own work. You also run run the risk of these tire shop monkeys crushing your rocker panels when they put your car on their lift. Just not worth it.
I just remembered I have some spare lug bolts. PM me your address, I'll send you a couple. Cancel the appointment. Driving on 4 lugs until you get the spare lug bolt is not all that risky since you have been basically doing that for 5 months.

EDIT:
You may want to try a good lug bolt where the stripped bolt was to verify that the hub threads are not also stripped. If they are, you will need a new hub.

Consider getting yourself a M12 x 1.25 lug bolt guide to hang the wheel and make it easier to start the lug bolts:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/M12x1-25-lug-bolt-guide-tool-2024-aluminum-Non-abrasive-knurl-Made-in-USA/231146381028?hash=item35d165dee4:g:zPsAAOxyVLNS6FaN
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That lug bolt is about $5 new from Dodge. Not worth the grief arguing and making a nuisance of yourself, even though you are in the right. Buy your self another and learn to do your own work.
I absolutely do my own work. I've been wrenching since the early 80's. My cars, my motorcycles, I love the work. But I hold those accountable for their work to a strict rule.

I just remembered I have some spare lug bolts. PM me your address, I'll send you a couple. Cancel the appointment. Driving on 4 lugs until you get the spare lug bolt is not all that risky since you have been basically doing that for 5 months.
That is very kind of you. However, I have made an ERROR in assigning fault. I went through my records and discovered that the last outfit to remove the wheels was Hollywood Chrysler in Aug/18 when they did a rotation during an oil change. I will certainly apologize to the guy at the tire store. I may hold people to a strict rule but when I'm wrong, I'm wrong. Let me see how the dealer handles this first.

EDIT:
You may want to try a good lug bolt where the stripped bolt was to verify that the hub threads are not also stripped. If they are, you will need a new hub.
First thing I tried. It would not go in. I knew right then and there that the hub was damaged.

Consider getting yourself a M12 x 1.25 lug bolt guide to hang the wheel and make it easier to start the lug bolts.
I know about them. I ran a wrecker for years, ran calls for AAA and other motor clubs. Mounting a wheel is second nature. Lugs go in and come out typically smooth. It would take an air gun to do this. Because if you threaded it by hand you would know that it went in wrong.

The proper way to remount a wheel is to insert the lugs by finger and spin them a couple of turns. Then move onto your tool of choice. These shop guys mate the lug to the air gun, shove it in the hole, and pull the trigger. What kind of results can you expect when this is your practice.
 
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