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Hey all, so in testing now with some higher end kickers in the rear doors it seems that the stock uconnect doesn't put out nearly as much power as I'd hope. After 24 on the volume, no audible difference is made but the second any bass hits, the volume drastically drops. Has anyone amped their speakers? I'd think it'd be easiest to do so from the dash where all the wires are anyway, which should be low enough gauge to sustain more power.
The least expensive way is a couple inexpensive Line Out Converters. Another way...

What he said ^. I'm hoping to learn how to wire up a 4 channel amp with the stock radio setup myself. I can wire up a system with an aftermarket radio no problem but have never messed with a factory radio. Already have a couple amps in mind and will be getting the rest of my speakers by the end of the week, hopefully!
...is a multichannel processor, like the JBL MS8, Rockford Fosgate 360.3, Kicker ZXSUM8. Cut the speaker lines about 3" from the connector, so if you go back to stock, you have pleanty to tie back into. Connect 4 speaker wires from the harness connected to the deck, to the LOC, or Proc input. Connect the RCA outputs to the Amp. Connect the Amp outputs to the other end of the harness that was cut from the back of the deck.

This is what I was going to do till I ordered the Alpine HU...

Simple...

j

j
 

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Nice! I wonder what kind of output the "stock" alpine HU is capable of, that might just be the easiest way to go. Though last I checked, it was like $800 :D Does the alpine have all of the fancy things that the touchscreen uconnects have in terms of electronics controls like controlling when the horn beeps, volume fade on deceleration, etc? I wonder if it'll all work just by adding that stereo if it does have those features.
 

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According to Alpine, 18W RMS, for the Alpine. I don't believe this Alpine will do anything the 8.4 touchscreen does, but, our '14 does not have that. This is why I'm going to put in an amp for the door/dash/deck speakers.

j
 

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If my Dart didn't have the 8.4" UConnect bells and whistles and just a normal traditional deck you can bet your tail that I would have already installed my audio system from my truck into my Dart. I do and I'll work around it as well. Might go another direction then most of my previous setups though.
 

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If my Dart didn't have the 8.4" UConnect bells and whistles and just a normal traditional deck you can bet your tail that I would have already installed my audio system from my truck into my Dart. I do and I'll work around it as well. Might go another direction then most of my previous setups though.
Don't even get me started man...in my previous car I had the whole setup, 6x9 alpine type Rs all around the car, after market Sony HU, 1000 Watt mono amp with dual 500 Watt RMS 12" type E Alpine subs in a bandpass box. I loved the system in that car and I would love to replicate it in this one again. Unfortunately it looks like putting an aftermarket HU in the car might be more trouble than its worth regarding needing to cut out plastic from behind the radio. I'm not even sure where I would fit an amp up front (if I were to amp all the speakers and not just the subs).
 

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Don't even get me started man...in my previous car I had the whole setup, 6x9 alpine type Rs all around the car, after market Sony HU, 1000 Watt mono amp with dual 500 Watt RMS 12" type E Alpine subs in a bandpass box. I loved the system in that car and I would love to replicate it in this one again. Unfortunately it looks like putting an aftermarket HU in the car might be more trouble than its worth regarding needing to cut out plastic from behind the radio. I'm not even sure where I would fit an amp up front (if I were to amp all the speakers and not just the subs).
I plan on mounting the amp hanging off the rear deck so it's up and out of the way. Not upside down though. I could mount it to the sub box but I'm not a big fan of that. I've heard stories of amps that just stop working, not entirely sure if that is a direct result from vibration or not. Rather be safe and just hang it from the deck.

Right now I'm just going to do the 3.5s (already installed), front and rear 6x9s, then a line level converter for the dedicated sub which will be a 12" Eclipse in a sealed box.
 

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I think I'm going to pop for a pair of Type S 4" speakers and see what it will take to put them in the dash. Rear deck I can make work. I just want to see if I can make it work in the dash.

j
 

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I think I'm going to pop for a pair of Type S 4" speakers and see what it will take to put them in the dash. Rear deck I can make work. I just want to see if I can make it work in the dash.

j
I think it wouldn't be all that hard. After looking at the dash mounting for the 3.5s you should beable to make a quarter inch mdf adapter for a 4" speaker then just use screws to secure it all. At least that's how I see this being possible.
 

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With the 4" being larger, I figured I'd need to make the hole bigger. Got a pic of the dash speaker and the opening? I'd go pull mine apart, but my car is still in the shop getting the remote start alarm installed -_-


j
 

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I ordered 3 of the kicker 3 1/2" speakers for the dash. went to put them in today because i only have the 6 speaker system on my sxt and I tried to install the 3rd speaker and there was no wiring under the cardboard cover that was covering the 3rd speaker spot. Should I just assume that I messed up expecting it to be that easy lol
 

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Should I just assume that I messed up expecting it to be that easy lol
Yes :D. Now, question is, how would you power that speaker? I don't know of any full range mono amps, so, how to power a single speaker?

j
 

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Sorry to resurect from the dead here....

I have the M'13 edition, with the 9speaker setup.. so, if I followed correctly, there are 3 dash, 4 door, and 2 rear, + 1 - 8" sub.

I was thinking about removing the sub, and putting in my dual 12's, and using line level inputs to my amp, and then using my 4ch amp for the door speakers... but what "stages" are all the speakers in? There is the "surround" mode in the stereo, so that I am assuming is center dash speaker, but when you use the fader for front/rear/left/right, which speakers are tied together? Or, should I find another 4ch amp and a 2 channel, and only use 1 of the channels on that?

The stereo sounds pretty decent, but it could be better. I obviously can't want to remove the stock 8.4 u-connect, as it controls everything... so changing the speakers and amping them, is the only way to go. Should I amp them all?


-- edited as I can't math... LOL
 

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I'm debating this question with my GT. Do I leave the center speaker dead, or ???

I know they use to sell 5ch full range amps, back when DVD started to male it's way into cars. Other than finding a low power two channel to bridge, and a matching 4 channel that has the same power as the bridged two channel, or two, and going this route, with a LOT of LOCS. I may just wait till I have a car that is more audio friendly, to build my system.

I just got done with our Durango build...so maybe that should tide me over...

J
 

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How about this for an idea?

Kicke4r CX125.2 bridged for the center speaker, Two PDXV9 amps, one for the door speakers, one for the front and rear dash speakers, and the sub amps for two Alpine 12" Type S speakers. You are going to need a LOC for the Center, front, and rear speakers. You might be able to use the factory sub wires, to another LOC, for the sub amps.

But, to answer your first question, with the Alpine system, LOC from the sub speaker wires, to a sub amp of your choice, and subs of your choice.

j
 

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So, I found this little gem cruising Crutchfields website.

It's 160W RMS @ 4 ohms! So, now this, with 4 of these through LOCs and you can amp all nine full range sepeakers.

Add a Sub amp for moar boom!

$170X5=$850 in full range amps, use LOCs or the built in high level input, upgrade to MUCH better speakers, and done.

I't still not sure I want to go that route, as 3.5" speakers are rare in the high end world
@chrytek12

Do you happen to have measurements for the Alpine amp/tuner? I'd like to hide an MS8 in there if it will fit...

j
 
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