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2013 1.4L with DDCT Automatic Transmission.
Took the dart to the dealer due to very sluggish transmission. Was told it was low on fluid due to a leak from the Hydraulic Power Unit. I've since filled the fluid and the car is driving better.

Why would transmission fluid be leaking from the Hydraulic Power Unit? From what I can tell it doesn't actually receive any fluid from the transmission.

Has anyone had similar issues?
Thanks
 

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The DDCT has two different fluids. One is inside the gear part and the other is the hydraulic fluid that works the odd and even gear clutches to do the shifting. There is pump motor that moves the fluid. They are separate and it is possible for the hydraulic fluid to leak since it is under pressure.

The hydraulic fluid C SERIES DDCT SAE 75W HYDRAULIC FLUID:
Part No. 68092638AA

Do not confuse with the C SERIES MANUAL & DUAL DRY CLUTCH
TRANSMISSION FLUID:
Quart
Part No. 68092630AA

Gallon
Part No. 68092636AA


The reservoir for the hydraulic fluid.
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The pump and accumulator.
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Discussion Starter #3
The blurb reads that the pump moves the Hydraulic Fluid putting it under pressure and a possible leak, but not the transmission fluid. My dart is leaking transmission fluid from the Power Unit.
 

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Are you seeing low fluid level in the reservoir on the top of the trans or are you checking the level at the rubber fill plug? (#1 in the pic)


dartddctdrainfill.jpg


There is trans fluid behind the valve body part of the hydraulic control unit. That is sealed to the trans case with RTV.
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Discussion Starter #5
reservoir on top is fine. I added a quart to the transmission (rubber plug).

Dealer stated that they confirmed a leak from the tramission hydraulic unit. I'm trying to understand how that could leak transmission fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
From your image its possible the the valve body could be leaking. Is the valve body replaced with the control unit?
 

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The valve body only has the hydraulic fluid inside. The hydraulic control unit includes the valve body and the only way to buy a valve body is to buy the entire hydraulic control unit. I would try resealing the valve body by removing it, clean the mating surfaces to remove the original RTV, and then applying a 1/8 inch bead of RTV, and replace the valve body torquing the bolts to 89 inch pounds. Install the two hydraulic fluid lines and electrical connectors.

21 - Transmission and Transfer Case / Automatic - C635 DDCT / VALVE BODY / Description

DESCRIPTION
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1 - HIGH PRESSURE OIL INLET

2 - CONNECTION FOR THE PRESSURE ACCUMULATOR

3 - SHIFTER SELECTOR POSITION SENSOR

4 - SHIFTER SELECTOR AXIS

5 - EVEN GEAR CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER PRESSURE SENSOR

6 - ELECTROHYDRAULIC KIT LINE PRESSURE SENSOR

7 - EVEN GEAR CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER OIL OUTLET PIPE

8 - PROPORTIONAL PRESSURE SOLENOID / EVEN GEAR CLUTCH

9 - PROPORTIONAL PRESSURE SOLENOID / SHIFTER

10 - PROPORTIONAL PRESSURE SOLENOID / ENGAGEMENT 1-6-4-5-REVERSE

11 - PROPORTIONAL FLOW SOLENOID / ODD GEAR CLUTCH

12 - ODD GEAR CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER OIL OUTLET PIPE

13 - PROPORTIONAL PRESSURE SOLENOID

14 - LOW PRESSURE OIL OUTLET TO HYDRAULIC POWER UNIT


The valve body consists of four pressure proportional solenoid valves (PPV), a flow proportional solenoid valves (QPV) for the odd gear concentric slave cylinder, a control pressure sensor for the even gear concentric slave cylinder, a line pressure sensor, magnetoresistive sensors for controlling movements of the shifter and gear engagement pistons and gearbox input rpm sensors. The functions of this component are:

•To control and manage clutch position
•To control and manage gear selection and engagement
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was leaning toward that too... By chance do you have the removal/install sheets for the part?
Thanks
 

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21 - Transmission and Transfer Case / Automatic - C635 DDCT / VALVE BODY / Removal

REMOVAL

1.Connect the scan tool and depressurize the hydraulic circuit.

2.Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

3.Remove the engine cover.

4.Remove the hydraulic circuit reservoir (Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - C635 DDCT/RESERVOIR, Hydraulic Circuit - Removal) .

5.Raise the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .

6.Remove the belly pan.

7.Disconnect the electrical connection (1) for the hydraulic power unit pressure transducer.
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8.Disconnect the electrical connection (2) for the sensor module.

9.Disconnect the electrical connection (1) for the even gear pressure transducer.

10.Disconnect the electrical connection (2) for the gear selector position sensor.
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11.Disconnect the electrical connections at the valve body.
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12.Disconnect the even gear concentric slave cylinder hydraulic line.
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13.Remove the odd gear slave cylinder hydraulic line (1) from the valve body.
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14.Remove the odd gear slave cylinder hydraulic line.

15.Remove the remaining valve body bolts.

16.Use a suitable tool (2) to separate the valve body (1) from the gear case and remove.
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21 - Transmission and Transfer Case / Automatic - C635 DDCT / VALVE BODY / Installation

INSTALLATION

1.Apply a 2 to 3 mm wide bead of MOPAR® Gasket Maker to the sealing surface of the case.

2.Install the valve body (1) to the gear case.

3.Install the valve body bolts and tighten to 10 N·m (89 in. lb.).

4.Install the odd gear slave cylinder hydraulic line (1) to the valve body and tighten to 16 N·m (12 ft. lb.).

5.Connect the even gear concentric slave cylinder hydraulic line.

6.Connect the electrical connections at the valve body.

7.Connect the electrical connection
(1) for the even gear pressure transducer.

8.Connect the electrical connection
(2) for the gear selector position sensor.

9.Connect the electrical Connection (1) for the hydraulic power unit pressure transducer.

10.Connect the electrical Connection (2) for the sensor module.

11.Install the belly pan.

12.Lower the vehicle.

13.Install the transmission hydraulic circuit reservoir (Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - C635 DDCT/RESERVOIR, Hydraulic Circuit/Installation) .

14.Install the engine cover.

15.Connect the negative battery terminal.
 

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The Mopar Gasket Maker mentioned is NOT RTV, my mistake. It is Mopar # 4318083AB which is the same as Loctite 518. It is red and is an anaerobic sealer and can be purchased at most auto parts stores.. So do not use RTV
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I have found the best way to get the old stuff off whether it's RTV or Loctite 518, is to do a small section between bolt holes at a time. Spray the area with Gumout carb cleaner, then immediately scrape with an old credit card. Do NOT use any metal scraping tool because it will gouge the aluminum. It may take a while but this is safe for the mating surfaces and you won't have a leak. Let the Loctite 518 set a few hours before putting any fluid in.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Any chance anyone knows how many bolts are in the valve body.... I've removed 10 and am able to separate it from the transmission, but it feels like there is still something holding it on....
I don't want to pry to much if there might be another bolt that I can't see.
 

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Did you remove the hydraulic lines? If there were more bolts, the valve body would not move away.
 

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Yes. I removed the upper and middle/lower lines... Thats a good point... Its separated from the top but is hanging up on the bottom. I'll be going back out today to keep working on it.
 

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I did finally get the valve body removed... Couple items to note. Removing the filter box is absolutely unnecessary as its on the opposite side of the car. However you do need to remove the battery and battery tray. I would whole heartedly recommend removing the Hydraulic Control unit first before removing the valve body. First there are a couple of bolts used on the control unit that actually attach to the transmission bell housing. Until, they are removed the valve body will not completely separate. It also would be much easier to drop the valve body down without the hydraulic unit attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Re-sealed the valve body and its reassemble. Overall it wasn't too bad. Thanks for all the help.
 
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