Dodge Dart Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
There is a 2013 DODGE DART SXT for sale near us and I am thinking of buying it for a commuter car for myself. I drive to / from work about 60 miles a day. The car has 148,000 miles on it. It looks to be in good shape but I just don't know much about these cars. Will they run up to / past 200,000 miles? Any item(s) I should be on the lookout for with engine / transmission? Will it need new shocks / struts soon? They are asking $4,000 for it. Is that fair?

If you experts / owners could share your thoughts with me it'd be really appreciated!

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,852 Posts
All 3 Dart powertrains (1.4T, 2.0, and 2.4) have been past the 200k mark. The majority of people are only replacing basic maintenance items, the engine and trans all hold up very well.

Any car with 150k miles should have new shocks and struts installed for safety.

I'd negotiate on the price if I was you, based on mileage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
All 3 Dart powertrains (1.4T, 2.0, and 2.4) have been past the 200k mark. The majority of people are only replacing basic maintenance items, the engine and trans all hold up very well.

Any car with 150k miles should have new shocks and struts installed for safety.

I'd negotiate on the price if I was you, based on mileage.
Thank you for the quick response! It has a 1.4 turbo. We have had a lot of cars make it over the 200,000 mark in our family and it's reassuring to know that these engines and transmissions can handle that. I appreciate the advice on the shocks / struts too.

Would you happen to know if these have timing belts? In our Honda's we have timing belts that need to get repaired every 100,000 miles, and usually the water pump is done too. I am unfamiliar with Chrysler's.

I was thinking of offering $3,000 to him and seeing what he thought. What doe you think of that?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,456 Posts
There is a 2013 DODGE DART SXT for sale near us and I am thinking of buying it for a commuter car for myself. I drive to / from work about 60 miles a day. The car has 148,000 miles on it. It looks to be in good shape but I just don't know much about these cars. Will they run up to / past 200,000 miles? Any item(s) I should be on the lookout for with engine / transmission? Will it need new shocks / struts soon? They are asking $4,000 for it. Is that fair?

If you experts / owners could share your thoughts with me it'd be really appreciated!

Mike
Personally with that kind of mileage and not knowing the maintenance or condition the car was taken care of in 150k miles, I would say no. If it's a 2.0 with the automatic, it will probably have very little issues in terms of power train. You will need a coolant flush and transmission flush, especially at that mileage (which I believe is recommended at 150k).

I see your new post that it's the 1.4 turbo. I am assuming the automatic (DDCT)? If so, I would say no x10. I will say the 1.4t was the first engine we knew of that broke 100k, and then from what I've seen then 200k. But that was with a manual transmission. The DDCT (auto) has been known for a lotttt of issues. Not all of them are bad, but if you've never had a dual dry clutch automatic transmission before, it's not your typical auto. It's a manual, that's automated. I think if you're used to the Honda platform, I would stay away from the Dart you are looking at. The manual and the DDCT have both proven their own list of issues on the dart, and the turbo has it's own list too. Spark plugs every 30k, the above trans and coolant flush will still need to be done, it "technically" requires premium for the turbo. It says in the manual that regular is okay but it says premium is the preferred.

The dart, especially with these different drive train combinations, was never out long enough to prove itself and figure out the issues before they happened. Take Hondas, they might use the same build of engine in the civic or whatever for a good while before changing it. Or using a variation of the old one that has been tried and true to success. The reason I brought up the 2.0 was because that is the world engine. The same 2.0 that was used in the Calibers and maybe the Neons too, and the Hyundai auto that was paired to it actually proved very reliable. Not fast, or the best responding, but reliable for the most part. While we are a Dart community that loves the Dart, we also have dealt and have noticed it's problems. A lot of us are problem free, and hate seeing when people come here to bash it and say it's a terrible car when all we know is good experiences. So this is the reason for my answer, is we would not want to see you come back as one of those users facing issue after issue. I personally would not trust a DDCT pushing 100k, so one at 150k just sounds a bit terrifying. Maybe if the previous owner(s) were old people behind the wheel, maintained it perfectly and got all the recalls and work done to it when needed, then I would be inclined to look further. However, we and you probably don't know that.

But also it depends on what you want. If you want a good looking, fun turbo car. The 1.4t is a good choice. If you're looking for a reliable daily driver that you aren't going to need to dump a ton of work into so that it drives good and won't be a problem, I don't think that this is it. I kept rambling about the auto, without actually knowing if it was or not. If it's the manual that changes things a bit. Some of the info above still relates, but the manuals have not had the worst of issues. They suffered from a big issue where the slave cylinder would fail and the clutch would be stuck on the ground all the time. The part is semi expensive, but the work to replace it is where the cost really can come in. There have been a lot of reports of the clutches going out very early. There is a clutch delay valve on this car that is supposed to help protect the trans from inexperienced drivers or from dumping the clutch, but if you're just driving it like normal, it's doing nothing more than wearing your clutch away prematurely. This isn't a faulty issue, it makes sense and other companies like BMW use this, but 1) it's extra wear you don't need, and 2) it does significantly effect how the car shifts and drives. Our vendors have a part that you can delete that. I have it and it's fantastic, but just adding that info in here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,434 Posts
Let's not forget that the 1.4 has a timing belt not a timing chain like the other engines. If the timing belt was not replaced at around 100k miles, it's like a ticking time bomb, you don't when the belt will fail and all the valves will get bent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
I agree with the above replies. If you can get it for real cheap...maybe. The 1.4 turbo and the DDCT would be enough to turn me away. JMO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Personally with that kind of mileage and not knowing the maintenance or condition the car was taken care of in 150k miles, I would say no. If it's a 2.0 with the automatic, it will probably have very little issues in terms of power train. You will need a coolant flush and transmission flush, especially at that mileage (which I believe is recommended at 150k).

I see your new post that it's the 1.4 turbo. I am assuming the automatic (DDCT)? If so, I would say no x10. I will say the 1.4t was the first engine we knew of that broke 100k, and then from what I've seen then 200k. But that was with a manual transmission. The DDCT (auto) has been known for a lotttt of issues. Not all of them are bad, but if you've never had a dual dry clutch automatic transmission before, it's not your typical auto. It's a manual, that's automated. I think if you're used to the Honda platform, I would stay away from the Dart you are looking at. The manual and the DDCT have both proven their own list of issues on the dart, and the turbo has it's own list too. Spark plugs every 30k, the above trans and coolant flush will still need to be done, it "technically" requires premium for the turbo. It says in the manual that regular is okay but it says premium is the preferred.

The dart, especially with these different drive train combinations, was never out long enough to prove itself and figure out the issues before they happened. Take Hondas, they might use the same build of engine in the civic or whatever for a good while before changing it. Or using a variation of the old one that has been tried and true to success. The reason I brought up the 2.0 was because that is the world engine. The same 2.0 that was used in the Calibers and maybe the Neons too, and the Hyundai auto that was paired to it actually proved very reliable. Not fast, or the best responding, but reliable for the most part. While we are a Dart community that loves the Dart, we also have dealt and have noticed it's problems. A lot of us are problem free, and hate seeing when people come here to bash it and say it's a terrible car when all we know is good experiences. So this is the reason for my answer, is we would not want to see you come back as one of those users facing issue after issue. I personally would not trust a DDCT pushing 100k, so one at 150k just sounds a bit terrifying. Maybe if the previous owner(s) were old people behind the wheel, maintained it perfectly and got all the recalls and work done to it when needed, then I would be inclined to look further. However, we and you probably don't know that.

But also it depends on what you want. If you want a good looking, fun turbo car. The 1.4t is a good choice. If you're looking for a reliable daily driver that you aren't going to need to dump a ton of work into so that it drives good and won't be a problem, I don't think that this is it. I kept rambling about the auto, without actually knowing if it was or not. If it's the manual that changes things a bit. Some of the info above still relates, but the manuals have not had the worst of issues. They suffered from a big issue where the slave cylinder would fail and the clutch would be stuck on the ground all the time. The part is semi expensive, but the work to replace it is where the cost really can come in. There have been a lot of reports of the clutches going out very early. There is a clutch delay valve on this car that is supposed to help protect the trans from inexperienced drivers or from dumping the clutch, but if you're just driving it like normal, it's doing nothing more than wearing your clutch away prematurely. This isn't a faulty issue, it makes sense and other companies like BMW use this, but 1) it's extra wear you don't need, and 2) it does significantly effect how the car shifts and drives. Our vendors have a part that you can delete that. I have it and it's fantastic, but just adding that info in here.
Thank you for your detailed reply!

Well, today I went and looked at the car and drove it. To give you and the others on the post some details, not the following:

1. You can see the carfax report attached. From this there is a link to the window sticker too.
2. The car is a manual transmission 6 speed.
3, The salesman told us they had to replace the turbo when they got it -- wasn't working. Also said they replaced the rear shocks. Said that these cars were tough on rear shocks,
4. Had debts in metal where at top of door frame on body (not door) on both sides. Rust was starting to show.
5. Had a dent near passenger rear tire.
6. Had rust bubbling through paint on driver side rear panel and on hood. Dealer said it wasn't rust on hood but corrorosion -- said hood was aluminum.
7. Was missing rear cover on gas door. Door was there but painted cover was missing.
8. Tires were nearly at wear bar.
9 . During drive a warning to service the TPS system came on and I noticed it display psi for 3 wheels but nothing for the front passenger wheel.
10. I thought I smelled motor oil burn from one of the rear pipes but am not sure.
11. Engine gave off a throaty sound and ride was a little noisy. When we asked if this was usual the dealer didn't know.
12. Shift lever had silver paint missing.

They told me they wanted at least $3,500 for it and then dropped to $3,000.

I told them I'd think it over. Here's what we thought it would take to get the car up to snuff:

1. Body work - $500~$1,000
2. New Struts - $200
3. New shift lever $20 (not sure),
4. New fuel fill cover $20 (not sure)
5. Oil Change, Tran Fluid change, brake fluid change $100
6. Timing Belt - noticed post mentioning this $500.
7. New tires and alignment $500

So, it seems that I'd be into about $2,000 additional.

On the KBB site it says the car in good condition, is worth $1,300~$5,700.

Seems like a risky deal. Let me know your thoughts.

Mike
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I agree with the above replies. If you can get it for real cheap...maybe. The 1.4 turbo and the DDCT would be enough to turn me away. JMO
Thank you for your reply. I went and looked at the car today and put notes on what I noticed in that response. Had a manual transmission but overall I am not sure if this is a good deal.

Let me know your thoughts.

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Let's not forget that the 1.4 has a timing belt not a timing chain like the other engines. If the timing belt was not replaced at around 100k miles, it's like a ticking time bomb, you don't when the belt will fail and all the valves will get bent.
Thank you for your reply! Actually you also answered a question I had - as the whether this engine had a timing belt on chain. See my notes in a response to another member in the thread and let me know your opinion.

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,434 Posts
No mention of the timing belt being replaced in the Carfax. Nothing about a clutch replacement either. At that mileage it could need a new clutch soon. 3 owners is too many and one kept the car only 2 months. Stay away. Sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Yeah if one owner kept the car for only 2 months I'd stay very far away from that car. 1.4 turbos are very unreliable and break constantly. If you could get your hands on a 2.0 automatic you'd be way happier and have less problems in the long run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
My 2013 2.0 automatic currently has 91k miles on the odometer and all I've had to replace have been 2 wheel bearings, brakes discs, brake pads and rear shocks. It's been a problem-free car for the most part and hope to keep driving it for many more years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
It's not a great idea to buy low priced cars from dealers. They have overhead and markup costs they have to recover. I doubt they paid more than $1,000 for it. You don't say what part of the country you are from, but I would stay away from any 6 year old car that already has rust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
If you want a Dart I'd keep looking, or offer them $800. No way I'd buy a car in that shape no matter what make it was.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
My 2013 2.0 automatic currently has 91k miles on the odometer and all I've had to replace have been 2 wheel bearings, brakes discs, brake pads and rear shocks. It's been a problem-free car for the most part and hope to keep driving it for many more years.
Thank you for getting back to me! I am curious to know why you replaced the shocks but not the struts? Are the rear shocks just no good? The dealer told me that too. I will look for a 2.0 Automatic, maybe with a few less miles. Seems to be the consensus on the thread that what you have is a pretty good car.

Have a great week and, again, thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
If you want a Dart I'd keep looking, or offer them $800. No way I'd buy a car in that shape no matter what make it was.
Yeah, I agree with you. Had hoped it'd be good but I don't really need a full-on project right now. :D

Thanks for getting back to me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
It's not a great idea to buy low priced cars from dealers. They have overhead and markup costs they have to recover. I doubt they paid more than $1,000 for it. You don't say what part of the country you are from, but I would stay away from any 6 year old car that already has rust.
Thanks for getting back to me. We live in Muncie, Indiana and I agree, the rust in not characteristic. Do you know if these really have aluminum hoods like the dealer told us? I also agree that dealers can be questionable. Thank God for forums and the ability to share, right?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,020 Posts
Thank you for your detailed reply!

Well, today I went and looked at the car and drove it. To give you and the others on the post some details, not the following:

1. You can see the carfax report attached. From this there is a link to the window sticker too.
2. The car is a manual transmission 6 speed.
3, The salesman told us they had to replace the turbo when they got it -- wasn't working. Also said they replaced the rear shocks. Said that these cars were tough on rear shocks,
4. Had debts in metal where at top of door frame on body (not door) on both sides. Rust was starting to show.
5. Had a dent near passenger rear tire.
6. Had rust bubbling through paint on driver side rear panel and on hood. Dealer said it wasn't rust on hood but corrorosion -- said hood was aluminum.
7. Was missing rear cover on gas door. Door was there but painted cover was missing.
8. Tires were nearly at wear bar.
9 . During drive a warning to service the TPS system came on and I noticed it display psi for 3 wheels but nothing for the front passenger wheel.
10. I thought I smelled motor oil burn from one of the rear pipes but am not sure.
11. Engine gave off a throaty sound and ride was a little noisy. When we asked if this was usual the dealer didn't know.
12. Shift lever had silver paint missing.

They told me they wanted at least $3,500 for it and then dropped to $3,000.

I told them I'd think it over. Here's what we thought it would take to get the car up to snuff:

1. Body work - $500~$1,000
2. New Struts - $200
3. New shift lever $20 (not sure),
4. New fuel fill cover $20 (not sure)
5. Oil Change, Tran Fluid change, brake fluid change $100
6. Timing Belt - noticed post mentioning this $500.
7. New tires and alignment $500

So, it seems that I'd be into about $2,000 additional.

On the KBB site it says the car in good condition, is worth $1,300~$5,700.

Seems like a risky deal. Let me know your thoughts.

Mike
Does this sound like a car that was babied for 150K miles to you? This car was somebody's daily driver that they drove into the ground and traded it in when it stopped working.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,020 Posts
Thanks for getting back to me. We live in Muncie, Indiana and I agree, the rust in not characteristic. Do you know if these really have aluminum hoods like the dealer told us? I also agree that dealers can be questionable. Thank God for forums and the ability to share, right?
Yes, the hood is a thin sheet of aluminum. It won't rust, but you can still get bubbles under the paint if it wasn't manufactured quite right and water gets under the paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Does this sound like a car that was babied for 150K miles to you? This car was somebody's daily driver that they drove into the ground and traded it in when it stopped working.
Yeah, I agree. Thanks for getting back to me!
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top