Dodge Dart Forum banner

41 - 60 of 61 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Almost looks like the stud is supposed to snap where it necks down.
Whoah.. Thats awesome man thanks! So the studs literally screw into the flange or? That is interesting. Maybe you are right. It does make sense. Thank you so much on this information. And thank you so much for reaching out to Benny. Hope to hear something back soon. I have been searching everywhere on the net' to find a picture of the catalytic converter flange to see the studs, but every picture I find shows the cat from the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,271 Posts
As you start to tighten the stud, the splines push into the casting, embedding the splines. With the hex head, you can hold the stud until the splines hold. This was the stud for 2nd gen Neons, PT Cruisers, and many other applications. The first parts manuals from 2000 to 2003 did not list a part number until FCA realized they needed to have a replacement.
Benny replied and could not find a part number listed for the Dart.
@Dartanyion, if you could measure the length of the stud that did not snap on your car, that might confirm if the Neon stud would work. Almost any bolt that is the right length would work, but it would be nice if a replacement would not need to be held with two wrenches the whole time you are tightening or loosening.
The Neon stud is cheap, perhaps buy one and try it. 40 mm is just over an inch and a half long and I believe that includes the splines to the end of the stud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Called the local dealer and they verified its an M8 1.25 stud but they didn't have any info in their system on it. So 2 studs @ $5.70 PC + .20 for nuts, looking at $12.57 for the jerb. Hoping to at least replace the one broken one tonight.. At least if it stops raining. I'll keep ya'll posted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,271 Posts
Got another reply from Benny and he included this pic:

dartexhaustmanifold.jpg

It does look like the studs are pressed in but there may be a problem with getting studs under the heat shield. The length of the Neon studs looks about right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Got another reply from Benny and he included this pic:

View attachment 116464

It does look like the studs are pressed in but there may be a problem with getting studs under the heat shield. The length of the Neon studs looks about right.
Wow man thanks where did you find that picture?! I'm have searched for hours. I did snap some pics last night. Decided to spray the studs last night with PB blaster to let it soak overnight and help to get them off today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,158 Posts
Yep, ask anyone in IT. In interviews it's almost an inevitability to receive the question 'Ok, so you are working on a server and you are having issues getting a config to work. Support on the server will take two days for someone to get back to you, what do you do'. The correct answer every time is google the issue and learn what you can to fix it yourself if possible before you can get support for it. Google has changed the entire human race. It's probably the biggest money maker, as well as money saver along with youtube howto videos possibly ever. Do I trust Google? Hell no.. But I don't know what I would do without it.
I thought you power cycle it using power button, then when that doesn't work you try pulling A, B and any additional PSUs and wait 30 seconds before plugging back in and rebooting, then when that doesn't work you call in support vendor and then they fail to fix it and send you RMA instructions. You then “unrack/unstack" from rack/cab, pack it up, FedEx it out and wait for new server.

This is what the Google search on this should show.

Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
I thought you power cycle it using power button, then when that doesn't work you try pulling A, B and any additional PSUs and wait 30 seconds before plugging back in and rebooting, then when that doesn't work you call in support vendor and then they fail to fix it and send you RMA instructions. You then “unrack/unstack" from rack/cab, pack it up, FedEx it out and wait for new server.

This is what the Google search on this should show.

Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk
Yep.. that's how it is with Cisco..

Cisco goes like this:
Cisco tac: Did you power cycle the device?..
Me: yes I told you that already. It looks like it's a bug from bug # blah blah blah is there a hot fix or iOS up/downgrade that can resolve this issue?
Cisco tac: Ok.. in that case we will send you an RMA chassis.
Me...okay?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,158 Posts
You saying that from the server side of the house or Cisco side..
From the Data Center Services hardware implementation/remote hands/smart hands side of the house.



Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
From the Data Center Services hardware implementation/remote hands/smart hands side of the house.



Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk
Oh so 9k Nexus and sans and VMware, Microsoft, etc?

P.s. f*** VMware support.. nothing like calling for a service that your getting pounded on from 9 different ways to get working properly and you create a ticket, gets downgraded from sev1 and you call just to be told "well it's not completely down so you have to wait 8hrs for a tech because it's not classified as a sev 1 issue.."

Hell at least with Microsoft you pay out the rear but get support right then... Dunno how Dell is on their side of the house. VMware acts like they are the only game in town because of vmotion and their market share but this isn't desktop space..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Back on topic here I was able to snap a better shot at the stud that isn't broken. Going to get two more tires at my cuz's shop this week and I'm thinking it would be best to let them install the mount.. as much as I'm itching to install it, I'm afraid It's best to take it somewhere with a proper lift and torch etc to get the old studs out.

Side note, I tried to post this pic a week ago but couldn't get my trash phone to work with uploading to the site.
IMG_20190217_203502.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,271 Posts
If I reduce that pic about to 75% and measure the length, it's about 40 mm just like the Neon stud. Your shop should be able to heat the stud and then hammer it out. It should be just like removing and installing a lug stud for a wheel. Let us know how it goes. It would be great if the Neon stud works since this is likely going to be a common problem as the Darts age.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
If I reduce that pic about to 75% and measure the length, it's about 40 mm just like the Neon stud. Your shop should be able to heat the stud and then hammer it out. It should be just like removing and installing a lug stud for a wheel. Let us know how it goes. It would be great if the Neon stud works since this is likely going to be a common problem as the Darts age.
Agreed and I'm hopeful that will be the ticket. Since it is my cousin's shop I'll be able to take pictures and video so I'll have all the low down on what happens. Side note I cannot wait to get this damn mount replaced.. my shifter had ended up all Willy nilly.. the slop in it is almost unbearable at this point and there is just no quick shifting anymore and I have realized it is in direct proportion to how bad the mount is getting. It started with a little slop, followed by notchiness and clickyness in shifting. Now it's just horrible. But a shadow of what it was some 7 months ago when I first test drove dartanyion.. the mount alone should make it much better. The arm and rod should pretty much bring it right on home. And the cdv delete will make it a dream. It will be so nice to put it in gear from a stop and not have to wait for the torque to calm down to move the engine and trans to the right angle to short into second easily again..

I'm going to make it a point to do some video of the shifting before and after in hopes that someone in the future who starts having these symptoms can just go ahead and nip it in the bud. It's an atrocity that a car with only 37000 miles needs 3/4 the shift linkage replaced just to make it work, and with these parts at least I should never have this problem again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
*****Update*****

I got the mount installed finally! You know what? Use a ratcheting closed box wrench.. You don't have to take the exhaust off if you do. If I would have realized that, I wouldn't have tried to unbolt it (and snap a stud). I still have to replace that stud. There wasn't enough time at the shop before closing for them to fix it, but.. Here's my findings:

Shifting is a bit easier than it was. There is still a very 'clicky' feeling to the shifter, but I can much easier go into gears. Next up is the rod and arm. Then the CDV delete. Hoping to get the rod and arm done this weekend. I feel like that will solve the clickyness (or just verify that I need a new shift cable which would suck..) but hoping this will cure it all. Then the CDV for the icing on the cake :D

My Deyeme mount had to be tapped into place. The clearance was much tighter than stock (as we have seen many here explain), but putting the car on a rack, and with a box ended wrench and another wrench for leverage, the tech got the old mount out like butter.. Funny how you can do something so easily when you have the right tools.. It doesn't have that pop feel when you let off the gas (probably the mount bumping the bottom of the car), but the feedback is much more. Not intolerable. Maybe I should have went with the flex mount, but meh. I'm just happy it's going to stay in the right place. It does feel more like race car at this point :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,271 Posts
In the FSM instructions to replace the mount, it says nothing about having to undo the exhaust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
In the FSM instructions to replace the mount, it says nothing about having to undo the exhaust.
Yeah and if you have a 12 point ratcheting box wrench, then you are exactly right but per deyeme instructions which I'm not knocking them for, and using an inverted star socket, there's no way to get the socket on the bolts with the exhaust in the way. So no choice with that setup except to unbolt the exhaust from the catalytic converter..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
Annnndddd! Phase 2 is completed! I installed the short shifter arm and rod tonight! Took me about an hour ish. It was actually super easy!.. well.. at least after I took the ECU off the battery holder.. if you are going to do this, don't worry about the battery box or taking the ECU+ plastic piece off. There are 3 bolts holding the ECU+plastic piece to the battery tray and if you just unbolt the ECU from the plastic piece instead, it's going to give you just what you need.

After removing the nut from the shift arm, I just used an open end wrench underneath and pulled up and then down and the arm popped right off. For the rod, basically the same thing. Took me about 30 minutes to get the battery side and ECU off, 5 minutes to get the old shift rod and arm off, and then about 10 more minutes to get the deyeme rod and arm on and that's only because I had the arm in the wrong position initially and luckily I tested shifting before putting everything back together because the shifter was basically stuck in third in the cabin. After moving it where it needed to be, verifying shifting before snugging down the shift arm nut, reinstall of the ECU, and the battery took all of about 15 minutes. I have it in the shortest position (oem shift stalk) and wow what a difference!!! I still have some weird slop (has to be shift cable or a bushing) but no more missing shifts!! It's crisp! And I am enjoying the hell out of it. Next up will be the last stage, which is the CDV delete but that's going to be a week or so before embarking on that one.. sorry guys but didn't get any pics or video tonight either because it was just me.. and I needed the flashlight on my phone to see under the hood. I did it in my garage but I need to invest in one of those light headbands or something! I may end up moving it to the middle shift position but I'm going to just try it in the shortest for a week. Either way I am absolutely happy with it!! And I have yet to install my go fast sticker and hash marks but that will be another something in the next two weeks or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,303 Posts
That slop you're still getting I think is under the console. The CDV Delete will do for the clutch what the other stuff has done for the shifter, making it feel like it should have all along! When you buy brake fluid, it's better to get more, smaller, containers rather than one large one (unless you have a lot of vehicles you plan on doing brake work on soon) since brake fluid is hygroscopic and shouldn't be kept open for a long time. And for those thinking on the shift control rod and arm, do what @Dartanyion said about using an open end wrench or something to pry the rod off the ball, rather than trying to "pull" it straight off (usually the first instinct). There's a metal ring inside there designed to tighten as it separates, preventing it from coming apart. Our stainless steel version uses special locking pins instead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
That slop you're still getting I think is under the console. The CDV Delete will do for the clutch what the other stuff has done for the shifter, making it feel like it should have all along! When you buy brake fluid, it's better to get more, smaller, containers rather than one large one (unless you have a lot of vehicles you plan on doing brake work on soon) since brake fluid is hygroscopic and shouldn't be kept open for a long time. And for those thinking on the shift control rod and arm, do what @Dartanyion said about using an open end wrench or something to pry the rod off the ball, rather than trying to "pull" it straight off (usually the first instinct). There's a metal ring inside there designed to tighten as it separates, preventing it from coming apart. Our stainless steel version uses special locking pins instead.
Yeah on the slop I'm thinking the same but I'm not sure where?? This slop I'm talking about started when I was trying out 0-60 times, and I ended up yanking it in between the 2nd and 4th gate on accident. At first I thought shift rod bushing but after I pulled it out to put the new one in, it looks perfectly fine.. No weirdness at all in the bushing. But it's slop"to the right" like here is the best way I can explain it..

If you are in neutral, if you move the shifter to the left, it has that tension you can feel knowing it's moving other parts. When moving to the right there is a little slop there where there is not much tension at all and then you feel the tension as normal.. it hasn't caused any issues other than an annoyance of it being there. I made a video a while back where I pulled the accent piece and shift boot off to see if there was any slack in the shifter assembly in the cab or damage to it from me doing that but reviewing the video there was none to be found.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
I finally did it..

me-gusta,-meme-165339.jpg

IMG_20190414_145114.jpg

Two things right off hand
#1 I'm outta shape like hell and need to work out
#2 this is all over one of the best mods I have installed.
#3 I'll be adding more detail but it's hella easier than I thought and I have found a way to install it flawlessly without time consuming bleeding of the clutch, minimal mess and best of all I did it myself and needed no ones help. More to come soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Sorry for the lateness on this wanted to give a little info on the installation.

#1. Purchase a mighty vac or a cheap equivalent. I bought one for $25 off amazon and will post the link when I have a chance.

#2. When you remove the CDV line, loosen the nuts on the left end but don't remove the line there yet. Keep the cap on the brake fluid resivour as well. The clip on the right side can be pulled just enough to take that end off. You will have to work it a little to get it out but since it still has the other end connected it will not leak very much. Put a rag on the right end, and then a rag near the left end or under it to catch the brake fluid and remove the cdv making sure to keep it lower so the fluid that does come out goes right into the rag. Once that's done, install the CDV delete line in reverse order.

#3 Now unscrew the cap for the brake fluid.

#4, instead of using a catch can and plastic bottle for the brake fluid to bleed the clutch, connect the mightyvac to the bleed nipple. Pull a suction on the line. Don't go crazy just about half the suction on the needle reading.

#5. Push down the clip and pop out the clutch hose. I had a hard time getting it to pop out but found I had to push down on the clip and to the side to sort of cock it and allow the hose to pop out. Once you do this the mightyvac does all the work. You should see a little bit of air come through and then a slow movement of brake fluid. Once the ugly fluid clears out, push the line back in, pump the clutch a few times (make sure your not running low on brake fluid in the reservour) and then repeat the bleed process. This was just to try to make sure you have cleaner fluid in the slave cylinder. Once that is done, push the clutch hose back in and your done. Unhook the mightyvac, reinstall the wheel well and tire and your ready to tear up the town.

As a side note, I bled my brakes first before doing the CDV delete to ensure I had clean fluid everywhere. I used right under a quart of brake fluid. Something I observed though is that my front brake fluid was dirty as hell coming out but the backs were only a little dirty at first and then cleared up so I don't think I drained ALL of it out but definitely the bad stuff and also used the mighty vac for that and pulling all the old fluid out of the reservior before starting anything and filling with new fluid. I have not had any problems. I just pumped the brakes a good 10 times before I started the car, then cranked and pumped another good 5 times till the pedal felt stiff and of course testing the brakes as best I could before moving the car. As far as the clutch, I pumped it a few times but it felt good even at the first pump of it.

Any questions on this just let me know!

Here's the action video!
 
41 - 60 of 61 Posts
About this Discussion
60 Replies
13 Participants
Dartanyion
Dodge Dart Forum
Dodge-Dart.org is a forum dedicated to the Dodge Dart. Join and participate in discussions about body kits and performance mods. Get the latest tips, news, browse the classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top