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Yeah it is weird..

I ran all around the tiny Town closest to me and here is what I have found:

Advance Auto Parts - worthless.. no inverted torx sockets at all, only dot 3 fluid to be had except house brand dot4.. even the dot 3 was more generic brands.. also no one man brake bleeders.

AutoZone - had inverted torx sockets (star sockets) but only one kit that went from E8 to E16. Didn't include E20. Also only had pintosin dot4, generic brand Dot4, and Brembo Dot4. Had a brake bleeder kit but the one was the tiny $8 job, and the other was $40!!(on their website they sell it for $30?)

Just to try it, checked the Home Depot but they had zero inverted sockets so.. Looks like I might as well mosey down to the Harbor Freight a few towns away next week and order my DOT4 off of Amazon.
You can make your own one man bleeder using an old water bottle, plastic tubing and a zip tie. Check out the video by chisfix. I did this in the summer when I redid all my brakes. It worked perfectly

Edit. I just realized you were using it for the CDV delete Install. It may not work as well but check it out if there’s no affordable bleeders nearby
 

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Discussion Starter #22
You can make your own one man bleeder using an old water bottle, plastic tubing and a zip tie. Check out the video by chisfix. I did this in the summer when I redid all my brakes. It worked perfectly

Edit. I just realized you were using it for the CDV delete Install. It may not work as well but check it out if there’s no affordable bleeders nearby
Yeah. It's looking like this is going to be %100 amazon.. Reason being, I can order this stuff now and get it just as cheap (and more options) than even harbor freight. And I can actually get a warranty on the brake bleeder kit for like $1
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Yeah. It's looking like this is going to be %100 amazon.. Reason being, I can order this stuff now and get it just as cheap (and more options) than even harbor freight. And I can actually get a warranty on the brake bleeder kit for like $1
Got all my parts in for the jerb!!!

Here's WTB
*I would hold off on the pump until I test it out and use it for the brakes, etc. Just taking out of the box, putting my finger on the end and pumping it, it held pressure alright, but I don't know if this thing is going to last yet and I'm definitely using some teflon tape on the fittings and what not. Stay tuned for that. For the inverted star set, it looks to be good quality believe it or not. At least they feel more quality than a lot of tools I have used in the past but then, depends on if it breaks while you use it!

HFS (R 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder & Vacuum Pump Test Tuner Tool Kit: $19.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NP60URE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EOHM 12Pcs E Torx Star Female Bit Socket Set 1/2"/3/8"/1/4" Drive E4 -E20: $10.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071134D5X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ATE 706202 Original TYP 200 Racing Quality DOT 4 Brake Fluid - 1 Liter: $13.42 (x2 cause I just wanted to make sure I had enough) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VXRPL0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

fluidsntools.jpg



****ALSO!!!****

About using the brake bleeder.. I know how to bleed the brakes with it but was curious if I could/should use it to bleed the clutch. I read in another part of the forum that you should use a power bleeder but from the reservoir? How does that work or am I mis-understanding?

Here's the instruction gracefully ripped from one of @alpinegreenneon's posts:

  Spoiler: Directions for power bleeding 
POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1.Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to clutch/brake fluid reservoir.

NOTE:
Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on/Bluepoint YA8925 or equivalent.

2.Connect power bleeding machine to bleeder cap.

NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3.Service filling machine should be pressurized between 2.0 and 2.5 bar (29 - 36 PSI).

4.Raise vehicle on a suitable hoist.

5. Remove the belly pan, if equipped.

6.Remove the dust cover from the nipple (1) on the hydraulic slave cylinder union (4).

View attachment 88785

7.Connect a length of transparent tubing (1) to the bleeder nipple. Insert the open end of the transparent tube (1) into a clean container to ketch the fluid flow (4) during bleeding procedure.

View attachment 88793

8.Turn ON the power bleeding machine.

NOTE: While bleeding the system, do not allow the clutch fluid reservoir to completely to run dry. If this happens, refill the clutch fluid reservoir, and repeat the procedure.

9.Press downward on the retainer clip (2) holding the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder union while pulling outward on the hydraulic hose (3) to open the bleeder flow (4). This allows the line to pop out about 1/8 in (3 mm) which opens the bleeder. Any air in the system will escape at this time.

10.Allow fluid to flow (4) out of bleed port until no air bubbles are visible in the transparent tube (1).

11.Push the line (3) inward until the clip (2) snaps in place to stop the bleeder flow.

12.If necessary, lower the vehicle.

13.Slowly actuate the clutch pedal FIFTEEN up/down cycles.

14.If necessary, hoist the vehicle.

15.Repeat steps 9 through 11 to verify air is NOT trapped in the system.

16.Turn OFF power bleeder machine.

17.If necessary, lower the vehicle.

18.Apply brakes. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If the clutch pedal feels fine and the transaxle can be easily shifted from neutral to any gear, the clutch is operating correctly. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped in the system.

19.If clutch function is normal, disconnect bleeder machine and install reservoir cap.

20.If necessary, hoist the vehicle.

21. Remove the transparent tube (1) from the nipple on the slave cylinder union and install the dust cover.

22.Install the belly pan, if removed.

23.Lower the vehicle.

Link to Travis' instructions:
Deyeme Racing- Chrysler PF1 Clutch Action Upgrade Kit Installation

But if you put a vacuum pump on the reservoir, doesn't that SUCK fluid out? And if that is the case, then wouldn't you need the clean fluid in the catch bottle connected to the bleed nipple to be sucked into the system? Or is this specifically for just air bubble removal?

The way I was thinking it is to empty the old fluid from the clutch reservoir, fill with new there, connect the brake bleeder/vacuum pump to the bleed nipple, pull a vacuum with it, press the clip and pop out the fluid hose, which will allow the pump to pump fluid out of the system. Do it for a short amount of time, then press the fluid hose back in place to seal it, then add fluid to the reservoir, pump the clutch once to release old fluid in the master cylinder, and continue the process until you know it's clean fluid throughout. Or is this just bad thinking? I may very well not be able to have help on this so any info is appreciated.

Update - OK. So evidently a 'power bleeder' uses pressure (psi) to push new fluid through the system, whereas a vacuum brake bleeder pulls a suction (BAR) thereby pulling fluid out.. (into a bottle such as the one that came with my vacuum brake bleeder) So... It SOUNDS like it should work.. Anyone here have any thoughts on that?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Well here's an update... I tried to replace the rear mount today and when attempting to remove the catalytic converter nuts, the first one I tried to get off broke off the damn bolt that's welded into the cat... I don't have pb blaster so I'm afraid to try to get the other nut off since if that broke too not only would I have a giant exhaust leak but would also have to find a cat... And I don't have 600 available to me at the moment so.. maybe next week
 

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Well here's an update... I tried to replace the rear mount today and when attempting to remove the catalytic converter nuts, the first one I tried to get off broke off the damn bolt that's welded into the cat... I don't have pb blaster so I'm afraid to try to get the other nut off since if that broke too not only would I have a giant exhaust leak but would also have to find a cat... And I don't have 600 available to me at the moment so.. maybe next week
The same thing happened to me when I did mine. The stud is pressed in. If you heat it up you can knock it out and replace it with a standard bolt and nut. I did that and had no leaks
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The same thing happened to me when I did mine. The stud is pressed in. If you heat it up you can knock it out and replace it with a standard bolt and nut. I did that and had no leaks
Awesome man thanks! I will have to wait till next week but it's good to know it's pressed in and not welded on.

Oh also left my aero shield off.. and evidently I don't know who or why but at some point a Dodge mechanic decided to remove all the access panels and didn't replace them so.. lots of good thats doing lol. I'll put it back on one I'm done with everything
 

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Awesome man thanks! I will have to wait till next week but it's good to know it's pressed in and not welded on.

Oh also left my aero shield off.. and evidently I don't know who or why but at some point a Dodge mechanic decided to remove all the access panels and didn't replace them so.. lots of good thats doing lol. I'll put it back on one I'm done with everything
Check out this thread. I posted how I fixed mine. If you have any other questions PM me and I’ll do my best to help
Threaded stud from cat to flex pipe

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=46998&share_tid=56730&url=https://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56730&share_type=t
 

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The same thing happened to me when I did mine. The stud is pressed in. If you heat it up you can knock it out and replace it with a standard bolt and nut. I did that and had no leaks
Awesome man thanks! I will have to wait till next week but it's good to know it's pressed in and not welded on.

Oh also left my aero shield off.. and evidently I don't know who or why but at some point a Dodge mechanic decided to remove all the access panels and didn't replace them so.. lots of good thats doing lol. I'll put it back on one I'm done with everything
That may not be entirely true. I was driving down the 1 one morning heading to work following another white dart where I saw the oil or filter door/panel fly off for almost no reason. I thought about signaling her and telling her about it but decided to let it go...

I removed my doors a while back and when I did my rear mount also decided to just leave the entire shield off, because well I really don't want to have to remove it again for the next part to replace and more airflow I guess.

So far, no damage or water issues and it's been a few months though I will say if I threw my injen intake back in I might actually get cold air this time. Water will be a problem of course...
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
That may not be entirely true. I was driving down the 1 one morning heading to work following another white dart where I saw the oil or filter door/panel fly off for almost no reason. I thought about signaling her and telling her about it but decided to let it go...

I removed my doors a while back and when I did my rear mount also decided to just leave the entire shield off, because well I really don't want to have to remove it again for the next part to replace and more airflow I guess.

So far, no damage or water issues and it's been a few months though I will say if I threw my injen intake back in I might actually get cold air this time. Water will be a problem of course...
Good point.. but with the access panels off, is it really making any differences saying on? Does anyone know if Mopar sells individual hatch openings for it? Probably not I would guess but worth a chance. I never saw them in schematic before
 

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I don't usually read the threads on doing mods. But I stumbled upon this one. All I can say is that you guys have alot of guts being able to dive into this stuff . I don't have the knowledge and/or ability. But even if I did, I don't think I'd have the courage !! My hat's off to you!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
@josh16 thanks for the info man that's going to help a lot! I should be able to knock the studs out and I am just going to try getting the same size bolts and nuts and replacing them. If needed for Clarence I'll just cut part of the bolt head off but have done it before on my aveo and didn't hit any issues after. Hoping to still get the one nut off the stud without snapping it but this time I'm going to play it smart and use wire brush on it first and a healthy helping of PB blaster and if needed a torch. If I can save the one nut and stud, I think it should be easy to knock the one broken one out and use a regular bolt and nut without removing the exhaust manifold/cat.

I don't usually read the threads on doing mods. But I stumbled upon this one. All I can say is that you guys have alot of guts being able to dive into this stuff . I don't have the knowledge and/or ability. But even if I did, I don't think I'd have the courage !! My hat's off to you!!!
Awe man thanks. I have worked on my own cars since well.. my first car. I sound a little helpless here when I shouldn't but it's more of 'oh fudge this car is too new to find at the junk yard for parts' lol. Not many around me here, but yeah I'll make it work.

This is just out of the norm for me with the dart being as new as it is. I know maybe a bit different for a lot of folks on here but this is the newest car I have ever worked on. Definitely the first using can bus, also the first being a Dodge, as well as being the first car that didn't have a 8+ year legacy. So I'm sorry for freaking out a little on a measly exhaust bolt! Lol.

As crazy as it sounds @dad's_dart, I don't know what your occupation is but I'm sure I would feel the same about what you do. I have found a lot of things are the same really it's just what you happen to fall into and feel comfortable with. I'm a network administrator (in 2 weeks a network analyst which is just a fancier higher paid network administrator) and people tell me all the time they would be scared to death to do my job. It's not that bad. It's like decorating a cake. If you screw up, improvise, fix it. It's never all lost unless you their your hands on the air and give up. It can always be fixed, life lessons learned. Just like being a parts house worker, construction worker, cake decorator, or guitar player (I gave up on that eons ago and never did it for a living! Lol), computer networker, call center representative, husband, father.. I have been all of these throughout my life. And have failed greatly at some of it. Failed greatly at times in all of it. The theme continues. It's the passion in you that drives you to be good at whatever it is life throws at you.. and money doesn't hurt.. just saying.
 

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@josh16 thanks for the info man that's going to help a lot! I should be able to knock the studs out and I am just going to try getting the same size bolts and nuts and replacing them. If needed for Clarence I'll just cut part of the bolt head off but have done it before on my aveo and didn't hit any issues after. Hoping to still get the one nut off the stud without snapping it but this time I'm going to play it smart and use wire brush on it first and a healthy helping of PB blaster and if needed a torch. If I can save the one nut and stud, I think it should be easy to knock the one broken one out and use a regular bolt and nut without removing the exhaust manifold/cat.



Awe man thanks. I have worked on my own cars since well.. my first car. I sound a little helpless here when I shouldn't but it's more of 'oh fudge this car is too new to find at the junk yard for parts' lol. Not many around me here, but yeah I'll make it work.

This is just out of the norm for me with the dart being as new as it is. I know maybe a bit different for a lot of folks on here but this is the newest car I have ever worked on. Definitely the first using can bus, also the first being a Dodge, as well as being the first car that didn't have a 8+ year legacy. So I'm sorry for freaking out a little on a measly exhaust bolt! Lol.

As crazy as it sounds @dad's_dart, I don't know what your occupation is but I'm sure I would feel the same about what you do. I have found a lot of things are the same really it's just what you happen to fall into and feel comfortable with. I'm a network administrator (in 2 weeks a network analyst which is just a fancier higher paid network administrator) and people tell me all the time they would be scared to death to do my job. It's not that bad. It's like decorating a cake. If you screw up, improvise, fix it. It's never all lost unless you their your hands on the air and give up. It can always be fixed, life lessons learned. Just like being a parts house worker, construction worker, cake decorator, or guitar player (I gave up on that eons ago and never did it for a living! Lol), computer networker, call center representative, husband, father.. I have been all of these throughout my life. And have failed greatly at some of it. Failed greatly at times in all of it. The theme continues. It's the passion in you that drives you to be good at whatever it is life throws at you.. and money doesn't hurt.. just saying.
I am retired now, but I made my living as a retail sales person for most of my life. Although I am by nature very mechanically inclined . I repaired home appliances for awhile in my youth but I found it too physically exhausting and as the kids would say today "soul crushing"... LOL.... So, I did my second best talent to make money : Bull**** Artist ! But as for cars, I always found them too intimidating to work on without access to a proper lift and all the expensive tools . Although, today with You Tube, you can learn to fix a heck of alot of stuff without winging it.
 

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I am retired now, but I made my living as a retail sales person for most of my life. Although I am by nature very mechanically inclined . I repaired home appliances for awhile in my youth but I found it too physically exhausting and as the kids would say today "soul crushing"... LOL.... So, I did my second best talent to make money : Bull**** Artist ! But as for cars, I always found them too intimidating to work on without access to a proper lift and all the expensive tools . Although, today with You Tube, you can learn to fix a heck of alot of stuff without winging it.
Bull**** artist?! Hey we have something in common there :haha:

I found them extremely intimidating at first. And to be honest cars now-a-days are even more so with all the sensors.. The first time I actually 'worked' on my own car, it was my first vehicle. A Chevy S10 with a small 3.2L V6. The rotor in the distributor cap basically disintegrated pulling away from a stop light and I want to say this was back in 1999? Maybe 2000? I remember I had just graduated high school and I was going to take a drug test for a job interview... I never made it to the appointment because of the truck.. I was able to call my stepdad and he suggested checking a few things. I ended up going and getting what I needed. I couldn't figure out how to put the parts on but it seemed like they were too big for what they were comparing to the old parts, but I didn't know what to do. I was kinda stuck in a town I had never been to before and didn't know anyone. So I brought the distributor cap back, and they gave me the right one (figures they were probably like.. this kid doesn't know jack), but so I went and put it on and it fit! BUT.... Now it was bucking and jerking and all kinda what not. I didn't pay attention when I took the plug wires off the distributor cap and didn't know the firing order (go figure), so BACK to Autozone I go, they give me the firing order, I put the wires back the way they described.. And .. same issue. After going round for round trying to find the right firing order my stepdad came to help me and he made me realize something... I thought I had the 4.2L v6 because someone told me it was almost a V8 I had so I thought it was the biggest V6 available for the truck....

So after taking the spark plugs back for the right ones for the engine size it was, and the distributor cap was the right size, and getting the right firing order (and a distributor and battery later since I trashed those trying to crank it with the wrong parts/firing order for god knows how long), the truck ran fine.

After that, helped replace a manual fuel pump in a Chrysler 5th Avenue (jesus I wish it were still that easy!!), after that changed spark plugs on my truck and it just kinda dominoed. Now-a-days it's hard for me to pay someone to fix my car. For one because you can never think they are going to put the level of love and attention to your vehicle as you would, because you are just a number to them. A sack of cash walking through the door. If I do it, I am worried about my safety and my family's safety so I know I am not going to half ass it. For two because it is very expensive. I think it's a crock of sh*t what dealers are charging for the most ridiculous things these day... Looking on here, people paying close to $1000 for mounts to be replaced, upper hundreds just to change damn spark plugs and coils.. I understand people need money. It's like when I worked for a Ford dealer and shops would yak about the prices of the parts (they DO float on price and yes you ARE paying at least half in commission to the sales desk), and I would say 'we all gotta eat man'. They have to pay me, the sales desk folks, shipping for the part, and the part itself. Just because it's a dealer doesn't mean the dealer lot get's the part for free. Prices fluxuate in the system from the manufacturer. But at the same time charging $1000 or more to replace 3 mounts at dealer pricing which is around $450 and charging over $80/hr for labor x inflated labor hours in the book, and still paying the tech actually doing the work a quarter what they are charging the consumer FOR the work is just insane. I feel like people are money hungry. And I like my money so they can f* off. I grew up poor. I value every dollar I have worked for. And I'm not bashing on people who do pay people to get their cars fixed. Honestly these days at the ripe old age of almost 40 (but feel like I'm 70), it takes a lot out of me to work on my car. Even just taking the belly pan off my Dart the other day and snapping that stud, it felt like I got the crap beat out of me. I yearn for a day when I can buy a car when I can take it to a shop and say 'hey you deal with it'. But I have tools and at the end of the day, I have seen first hand many times where shops screw something up on purpose and people have to come back in 4 months because 'i dunno what happened it was fine till today'.. Not all shops do it and most dealers wouldn't but yeah.. It's bad.
 

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I am retired now, but I made my living as a retail sales person for most of my life. Although I am by nature very mechanically inclined . I repaired home appliances for awhile in my youth but I found it too physically exhausting and as the kids would say today "soul crushing"... LOL.... So, I did my second best talent to make money : Bull**** Artist ! But as for cars, I always found them too intimidating to work on without access to a proper lift and all the expensive tools . Although, today with You Tube, you can learn to fix a heck of alot of stuff without winging it.
Yes, the Internet is like manna from the heavens for anybody who is inclined to be a DIY type but doesn't have access to a skilled mentor or something like that. I've learned how to do plumbing, proper household wiring (it's not something you want to do incorrectly), and how to work on cars primarily from the Internet, along with a lot of other skills.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yes, the Internet is like manna from the heavens for anybody who is inclined to be a DIY type but doesn't have access to a skilled mentor or something like that. I've learned how to do plumbing, proper household wiring (it's not something you want to do incorrectly), and how to work on cars primarily from the Internet, along with a lot of other skills.
Yep, ask anyone in IT. In interviews it's almost an inevitability to receive the question 'Ok, so you are working on a server and you are having issues getting a config to work. Support on the server will take two days for someone to get back to you, what do you do'. The correct answer every time is google the issue and learn what you can to fix it yourself if possible before you can get support for it. Google has changed the entire human race. It's probably the biggest money maker, as well as money saver along with youtube howto videos possibly ever. Do I trust Google? Hell no.. But I don't know what I would do without it.
 

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@Dartanyion, not sure if this may help to replace the manifold stud that snapped. 2nd gen Neons and a bunch of other Chryslers used this part number:
6505926AA
M8x1.25x40.00
6505926AA2gmanifoldstud.jpg

Does the Dart manifold bolt look similar?
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
@Dartanyion, not sure if this may help to replace the manifold stud that snapped. 2nd gen Neons and a bunch of other Chryslers used this part number:
6505926AA
M8x1.25x40.00
View attachment 116460

Does the Dart manifold bolt look similar?
Thank you very much man, but no. It doesn't look like that (I don't think). It's M8 x 1.25 x 8 and here's some pictures from another thread where someone had to do the same thing:

View attachment 104793

I believe this may be what it looks like but not sure - this is from the coupler to the resonator and not the cat, but I will try to get a camera in there and see if I can verify if it is different at least at the head. Feeling it feels like a nub and not a head.

 

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I'll send an email to Benny @AllMoparParts.com and see if he possibly has numbers for the stud and the nut. It should not matter if there is an actual head or a nub. Seems like a spline would be there since it goes through a casting and you would not want it to turn while tightening the nut. I can't imagine that there isn't a separate part number for this. Anything on the exhaust side is going to rust.
 

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Looking at a pic from the FSM, it looks like the part number I posted might work. The splines would hold it in the casting, then the pic shows it gets necked down, and then threads.

dartmanifoldstuds.jpg
 

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Almost looks like the stud is supposed to snap where it necks down.
 
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