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Discussion Starter #1
Vehicle: Dart GT Auto with 37k miles. This is my 2nd Dart GT Auto that I have owned and I have noticed on both vehicles that the OEM mounts feel horrendous after 25k of spirited driving. I purchased all 3 mount replacements from Deyeme, however I installed this mount first as this mount causes most of the bucking and wheel hop issues. I will install/review the other mounts at another time.

Immediately I can say there is a night and day difference with the new rear mount installed! :in love: The best way to explain it is for me to list the before and after.

Before:
1) Bucking. We all know the Darts buck during low speeds when you get on/off the throttle. My car was so bad it would do it at highway speeds.
2) Wandering on roads. As soon as you hit a bump or dip in the road the car would wander all over.
3) Unbalanced suspension. Felt like blown shocks with lots of added rebound.
4) Wheel hop in 1st gear full throttle.
5) Bad throttle response, slow/sloppy shifting.

After:
1) No more buck! The buck stops here! Terrific results considering the mounting setup FCA decided to use on the Dart.
2) Drives straight like it used to.
3) The engine feels planted now. It doesn't feel like it is literally bouncing around in the engine bay.
4) Wheel hop is completely gone. Cold tires and cold pavement outside made this an easy test to verify. 1st gear roasts up to 5k rpms with no hop at all.
5) Throttle response was restored! Shifting returned to what I was familiar with on the Powertech, smooth as butter at light throttle and fast and crisp at full throttle.

Upon removing the OEM mount with 37k miles, I inspected it for wear. The rubber seemed all there, however there was one major problem. The mount was easily manipulated almost 45 degrees using just my hands. Now imagine your engine/trans relying on this mount to keep it in the proper position and to prevent it from moving.

Overall I couldn't be happier with the end results. Price was reasonable in my opinion, Deyeme kept me updated to the status of my order through online messaging, and the product itself was well constructed and put together. I would recommend this product.
 

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Vehicle: Dart GT Auto with 37k miles. This is my 2nd Dart GT Auto that I have owned and I have noticed on both vehicles that the OEM mounts feel horrendous after 25k of spirited driving. I purchased all 3 mount replacements from Deyeme, however I installed this mount first as this mount causes most of the bucking and wheel hop issues. I will install/review the other mounts at another time.

Immediately I can say there is a night and day difference with the new rear mount installed! :in love: The best way to explain it is for me to list the before and after.

Before:
1) Bucking. We all know the Darts buck during low speeds when you get on/off the throttle. My car was so bad it would do it at highway speeds.
2) Wandering on roads. As soon as you hit a bump or dip in the road the car would wander all over.
3) Unbalanced suspension. Felt like blown shocks with lots of added rebound.
4) Wheel hop in 1st gear full throttle.
5) Bad throttle response, slow/sloppy shifting.

After:
1) No more buck! The buck stops here! Terrific results considering the mounting setup FCA decided to use on the Dart.
2) Drives straight like it used to.
3) The engine feels planted now. It doesn't feel like it is literally bouncing around in the engine bay.
4) Wheel hop is completely gone. Cold tires and cold pavement outside made this an easy test to verify. 1st gear roasts up to 5k rpms with no hop at all.
5) Throttle response was restored! Shifting returned to what I was familiar with on the Powertech, smooth as butter at light throttle and fast and crisp at full throttle.

Upon removing the OEM mount with 37k miles, I inspected it for wear. The rubber seemed all there, however there was one major problem. The mount was easily manipulated almost 45 degrees using just my hands. Now imagine your engine/trans relying on this mount to keep it in the proper position and to prevent it from moving.

Overall I couldn't be happier with the end results. Price was reasonable in my opinion, Deyeme kept me updated to the status of my order through online messaging, and the product itself was well constructed and put together. I would recommend this product.
What made you go with firm rather than flex? How is the cabin vibration with the firm? Would you be able to update how the feel and/or vibrations change as the weather gets colder in Michigan?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What made you go with firm rather than flex? How is the cabin vibration with the firm? Would you be able to update how the feel and/or vibrations change as the weather gets colder in Michigan?
I went with the FIRM because I wanted the stiffest option possible for the rear mount since the solid version is no longer being sold. I also wanted to make SURE it would last until the life of the Dart with my spirited driving style, which I assume to be 150k miles for me. The rear mount is probably the most critical out of the 3 mounts, since it prevents alot of twisting and moving around so the stiffer the better. Again, this is with the Auto so your mileage may vary.

Cabin vibration:
Car in Park = The slightest vibration.
Car in Reverse = Somewhat strong vibration.
Car in Drive at a redlight = The slightest vibration.
Car in motion = No difference from stock.


I never use A/C so I cannot comment on that, but A/C will definitely amplify what I wrote above. The front defrost adds a tiny bit of added vibration, not much though. Right now we are in the mid 30's temperature here in Michigan. I will let you know how it feels once the really cold air arrives.
 

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I went with the FIRM because I wanted the stiffest option possible for the rear mount since the solid version is no longer being sold. I also wanted to make SURE it would last until the life of the Dart with my spirited driving style, which I assume to be 150k miles for me. The rear mount is probably the most critical out of the 3 mounts, since it prevents alot of twisting and moving around so the stiffer the better. Again, this is with the Auto so your mileage may vary.

Cabin vibration:
Car in Park = The slightest vibration.
Car in Reverse = Somewhat strong vibration.
Car in Drive at a redlight = The slightest vibration.
Car in motion = No difference from stock.


I never use A/C so I cannot comment on that, but A/C will definitely amplify what I wrote above. The front defrost adds a tiny bit of added vibration, not much though. Right now we are in the mid 30's temperature here in Michigan. I will let you know how it feels once the really cold air arrives.
I have the flex mount and the vibration will be similar but maybe less extreme. I also notice on take off a little vibration in first gear with the auto trans. With A/C it's just as described but a tide worse. I'm just waiting on the really cold climate of Quebec to see how worse it will get which is the reason why I got the flex mount.
 

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All,

Thanks for the info and feedback. I think I will ultimately go with the flex due to this being a daily driver, my wife not a lover of extra noise/vibration, the cold weather of New England winters and my love of AC in the summer.

Did either of you do the install yourself? If so, what are the steps? What components need to be supported and what are the proper methods?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All,

Thanks for the info and feedback. I think I will ultimately go with the flex due to this being a daily driver, my wife not a lover of extra noise/vibration, the cold weather of New England winters and my love of AC in the summer.

Did either of you do the install yourself? If so, what are the steps? What components need to be supported and what are the proper methods?
Yes, I installed it with the help of a friend. Here is a link to the instructions with pictures. It is pretty easy it just requires an 8mm and 10mm to remove the underbody aero shield, an 18mm to remove the through-bolts of the mount, and the weird reverse torx or whatever it's called, I think 14mm. I did not have the weird socket so I ended up using a multi-point socket and it worked fine. No need to support the engine during this mount swap. When you remove the OEM mount and install the aftermarket mount, you simply need to use your hands to rotate the trans/engine into place. You do NOT need any sort of pry bar, it's that easy to move by hand. The only difficult part was removing the exhaust downpipe nuts, as those were rusted/heat cycled into place. I ended up using an impact socket to remove them, which damaged the nuts so I had to install new nuts. The purpose of removing these nuts on the downpipe is to allow you to push the exhaust out of the way in order to gain access to the rear mount nuts. We took 2 hours, mainly because we used hand tools to remove the aero tray which took forever.

http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/deyeme-racing/2476-new-product-pf1rmm-solid-polyurethane-filled-rear-engine-mount.html

TLDR Install:
1) I jacked up the front crossmember and then put 2 jackstands under the aluminum frame rails. You need some room to crawl under the vehicle to gain access.
2) Remove underbody aero shield using the 8mm and 10mm sockets.
3) Remove downpipe exhaust nuts(I forgot what size the nuts were).
4) Remove the 18mm nuts on the mount.
5) Remove the 3 weird shaped nuts on the mount holder.
6) Remove old mount and reverse the steps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
All,

Thanks for the info and feedback. I think I will ultimately go with the flex due to this being a daily driver, my wife not a lover of extra noise/vibration, the cold weather of New England winters and my love of AC in the summer.

Did either of you do the install yourself? If so, what are the steps? What components need to be supported and what are the proper methods?
You already have the CDV installed, so this rear mount should make your manual trans complete. It should feel real good after swapping the mount.
 

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Yes, I installed it with the help of a friend. Here is a link to the instructions with pictures. It is pretty easy it just requires an 8mm and 10mm to remove the underbody aero shield, an 18mm to remove the through-bolts of the mount, and the weird reverse torx or whatever it's called, I think 14mm. I did not have the weird socket so I ended up using a multi-point socket and it worked fine. No need to support the engine during this mount swap. When you remove the OEM mount and install the aftermarket mount, you simply need to use your hands to rotate the trans/engine into place. You do NOT need any sort of pry bar, it's that easy to move by hand. The only difficult part was removing the exhaust downpipe nuts, as those were rusted/heat cycled into place. I ended up using an impact socket to remove them, which damaged the nuts so I had to install new nuts. The purpose of removing these nuts on the downpipe is to allow you to push the exhaust out of the way in order to gain access to the rear mount nuts. We took 2 hours, mainly because we used hand tools to remove the aero tray which took forever.

http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/deyeme-racing/2476-new-product-pf1rmm-solid-polyurethane-filled-rear-engine-mount.html

TLDR Install:
1) I jacked up the front crossmember and then put 2 jackstands under the aluminum frame rails. You need some room to crawl under the vehicle to gain access.
2) Remove underbody aero shield using the 8mm and 10mm sockets.
3) Remove downpipe exhaust nuts(I forgot what size the nuts were).
4) Remove the 18mm nuts on the mount.
5) Remove the 3 weird shaped nuts on the mount holder.
6) Remove old mount and reverse the steps.
On Step 3, do you simply remove the Exhaust Nuts, or do you actually need to also move the downpipe exhaust piping (or other)? If you remove the piping, is it just a clamp fitting, or should it have gasket sealant applied prior to re-installing?

Thanks for all of your knowledge on this, and sorry for all of the directions. I am considering doing this and unfortunately my work space is my driveway outside so i try to eliminate any surprises or unexpected steps during these types of projects. This is also my Daily Driver, so not having it road-worthy is not a option.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
On Step 3, do you simply remove the Exhaust Nuts, or do you actually need to also move the downpipe exhaust piping (or other)? If you remove the piping, is it just a clamp fitting, or should it have gasket sealant applied prior to re-installing?

Thanks for all of your knowledge on this, and sorry for all of the directions. I am considering doing this and unfortunately my work space is my driveway outside so i try to eliminate any surprises or unexpected steps during these types of projects. This is also my Daily Driver, so not having it road-worthy is not a option.
I found the installation instructions not exactly complete or detailed enough when I read them, so no worries.

The downpipe exhaust piping is held in place by 2 nuts, and is sealed with a metal style gasket. The gasket looked brand new on mine when I removed it so I simply put it back into place.(37k on my Dart). After you remove those 2 nuts, the exhaust pipe is held onto the car with 1 additional nut which is located nearby. Magically my car was missing this additional nut so I skipped that step. Now you can manually bend the exhaust down towards the ground to gain access to the rear mount bolts, as there is a flex pipe in the exhaust located right by the rear mount. Without bending the exhaust out of the way, there is no way to gain access to the bolts as they are right next to the exhaust piping.

I froze my butt off doing this mount. 34 degrees F outside in my driveway lol.
 

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Once again, thank you and awesome info. Thinking about doing this sooner rather than later, but wanted to make sure I did not have to use any RTV style sealant that may not setup properly in the cold temps in Mass right now. This mod looks like a no-brainer. However, going to go with the Flex for the comfort level and sacrifice some of the performance level.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Once again, thank you and awesome info. Thinking about doing this sooner rather than later, but wanted to make sure I did not have to use any RTV style sealant that may not setup properly in the cold temps in Mass right now. This mod looks like a no-brainer. However, going to go with the Flex for the comfort level and sacrifice some of the performance level.
I would recommend some penetrating spray for the 2 downpipe exhaust nuts beforehand. For the nuts on the mount itself I simply used a wrench and hit it with a dead-blow hammer to loosen the nuts without any problems.

The FLEX will still be leaps and bounds above the OEM mount. You will enjoy it. I will try to take a picture of how far I can move my OEM mount with just my hands. It's crazy.
 

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I would recommend some penetrating spray for the 2 downpipe exhaust nuts beforehand. For the nuts on the mount itself I simply used a wrench and hit it with a dead-blow hammer to loosen the nuts without any problems.

The FLEX will still be leaps and bounds above the OEM mount. You will enjoy it. I will try to take a picture of how far I can move my OEM mount with just my hands. It's crazy.
OEM mount is for sure really cheap and mine was worse than I thought, one of the 2 rubber tab was broke so the mount wasnt even doing anything at that point.
 

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I would recommend some penetrating spray for the 2 downpipe exhaust nuts beforehand. For the nuts on the mount itself I simply used a wrench and hit it with a dead-blow hammer to loosen the nuts without any problems.

The FLEX will still be leaps and bounds above the OEM mount. You will enjoy it. I will try to take a picture of how far I can move my OEM mount with just my hands. It's crazy.
I will probably wire wheel the threads to remove any rust/oxidation that could cause the nuts to seize while removing (nobody wants seized nuts) and then go with penetrating spray. Might be time I invest in a good length steel pipe that fits over the handle of my Snap-On 3/8" drive. Hate having to beat on these type of things when I have the car lifted. Even with the jack and two separate stands as secondary and tertiary fail safes.
 

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I have the rear flex mount on it's way. Will try and install this weekend and probably change the oil while I'm under there. Thanks for all of the great information.
 

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Hello Everyone,

I have been driving with the new Rear "Flex" Motor Mount for almost two weeks now. I wanted to get some driving time before giving an opinion. I am going to break this up into a few sections.

Installation - Very easy. Do make sure you have the proper tools (external torx socket is something that everyone may not have). I had an issue where I found that the previous owner must of had work done and one of the bolts from the Cat to the Flex Pipe was cross threaded about a 1/3 of the way on. Once again, this was also easily corrected with proper tools. I will say that you should probably invest in a wire wheel to clean all threads prior to any work, penetrating fluid and consider purchasing new nuts, gasket and bolt that attach to the flex pipe. Short money that can make the job easier.

OEM Flex Mount - As previously stated by other users, I can hold the OEM mount in two hands and use my thumbs to move the mount 45 degrees. I can only imagine how much and how violently this moves with the motor/etc. inflicting the force.
IMG_20171220_212722-01.jpeg

New Rear "Flex" Mount - I purchased the Flex Mount in red. These are completely filled and can not be moved/manipulated like the OEM (see pics)
IMG_20171201_150043.jpg
IMG_20171201_150100.jpg

Shifting - This is my opinion, so take that into consideration when reading. I find to be a nice change in shifting, especially when driving/shifting aggressively. There is a big reduction on the Shift-"Clunk"-engagement of next gear. Much smoother and feels like a quicker grab and go. I am very happy with this.

Vibration - Once again, this is my opinion only, and the is a "Flex" mount (not "Firm"). This was my biggest concern when considering this mod. The car is my daily driver. When I go into the office several times a week, I have about an 80 round trip which is mostly highways, but can also be traffic jammed/stop and go. Okay, there is a barely noticeable increase in vibration when idling during start and when stopped in traffic. I have not used it with the A/C on obviously, but have also driven the car in single digit and full below freezing days since the change. The car also stays out in the driveway (garage is overrun with sports equipment and kids stuff).

there is a more noticeable vibration when I get up around 70 mph. i had previously had my tires rotated and road force balanced a few weeks prior to the change and the car was super smooth. When you give it "some gas/throttle" at around 70 and above there is definitely an increased vibration. It lessens with a heavier foot and/or knocking it down a gear. it also is not noticeable with very "light" gas/throttle at these speeds or if you let off the gas/throttle. This increased vibration does not bother me much, but I could see anyone who wants a smooth drive not enjoying this.

All in all I am very happy with this mod. The improvement in the shifting versus the slight vibration increase is an easy trade-off for me. I would say I recommend this, but I feel this is a personal preference concerning the vibration. I also found that this is such an easy/low cost mod as well. I hope my two-cents can help educate some. i would be happy to answer any questions as well.

And once again, thank you for all of the assistance from fellow board members on all things Dart related.
 
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