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2014 Dodge Dart SXT 2.4L
I replaced the MultiAir "brick" because I kept getting a p1067. The code would go away after changing the oil but recently the code came back up at 80% oil life. After doing some research I found out that you can't just replace that one solenoid. It has to be then entire actuator. I replaced the MultiAir Actuator yesterday with a new one and did an oil change at the same time. Now the engine cranks but won't start. There is spark, fuel pressure, and oil pressure but after checking cyl 1 & 2 i found that there is no cylinder compression what so ever. Before removing the old actuator I removed all spark plugs and made sure all 4 pistons were at the halfway mark. Can someone tell me what am I doing wrong?
 

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There's a special tool to align the MultiAir. If it's not aligned, no compression.
 

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There is a you tube and while it is possible to install the MultiAir brick without the tool, it does need to be aligned correctly. If the MultiAir was drained of oil, it takes many cranks to purge any air and that also could be the problem. Put the battery on a charger and keep cranking.
 

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What is the name of this special tool and can I rent it from an auto parts store? I did read somewhere that you need to purge the brick of air completely. I took the valve cover off yesterday and turned the engine manually from the crankshaft and saw that the intake valves were not moving at all.
 

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What is the name of this special tool and can I rent it from an auto parts store? I did read somewhere that you need to purge the brick of air completely. I took the valve cover off yesterday and turned the engine manually from the crankshaft and saw that the intake valves were not moving at all.
He can get more info, however, i don't think there is any chance at all that you will find that part for rent at the part store. It's used only for the multi air and wouldn't bring any money in for them to stock it and rent it out - and get money for people not returning it. The tool from what I have heard is very expensive for what it is, but it's needed to align it correctly so there is no way around it.
 

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He can get more info, however, i don't think there is any chance at all that you will find that part for rent at the part store. It's used only for the multi air and wouldn't bring any money in for them to stock it and rent it out - and get money for people not returning it. The tool from what I have heard is very expensive for what it is, but it's needed to align it correctly so there is no way around it.
Is this special tool a set of pins? Could you point me in the right direction as far as finding this tool?
 

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You might search this sight. I have no clue what tool you need but it's a starting point.

 

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Is this special tool a set of pins? Could you point me in the right direction as far as finding this tool?
Here is what I found from another thread of where you can get it. It looks like they have a whole kit too with some other pieces. Not sure if you would need everything but it's not much more for that one than this. 10276A Crankshaft Timing Locking Tool 10276

You might search this sight. I have no clue what tool you need but it's a starting point.

This looks like the right tool, but that sight looks awefully...sketchy. Who knows maybe the part is cheep but then shipping is like $150.
 

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That is the tool set for the timing belt. The MultiAir tool is different and yes it's expensive. If you tighten the outside bolts alternately a turn at a time and make sure to compress the springs gradually, you should be able to get the MultiAir brick on correctly. Since it's hydraulic, oil needs to get through some really small holes and any air needs to be purged. The intake valves won't move until oil is inside the brick. Crank, wait, crank, over and over until it fills. It will take prolonged cranking. Like I mentioned, you need a fully charged battery, or jump the battery with a running car.
 

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There is a you tube video posted by @mastering in the thread Engine cranks but no compression. It shows a clever way to fill the MultiAir brick with oil and then the sequence of cranking and waiting.
 

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ALPINE
Im having a simular problem with my 2013 Dart Rallye (dual clutch automatic) engine cranks but no compression. Difference being I was driving on highwaywith cruise on at 70 when I felt the car hicup as if running out of gas as I looked to check I had gas (I did) the car just stalled out. Tried to start the car again but just cranked and wasnt getting compression. Thought maybe was timing belt but its all good and strong, perfect condition.
Any idea what could be going on or what I can check for. Oh and there was no code or dash warning lights that came on. I'd reaaly appreciate any guidence you could give me
 

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Do you hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn the key to ON? Have you checked for spark? Have you checked for codes with a scanner? Have you checked for compression with a compression gauge?
 

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Yes hear the fuel pump kick on when turn the key on. Matter fact I just replaced the fuel pump last night thinking that may have been the problem of why car stalled while driving it in the first place.
Checked for spark? From where do I check for spark?
Checked for code with scanner and there is nothing at all.
Not done compression check with gage yet.
 

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Three things are required for an engine to start and run:
Fuel
Spark
Compression

There are you tube videos for checking for spark as well as how to do a compression test. When you install a new fuel pump, there needs to be at least 5 gallons of gas in the tank to prime the pump.
You can try swapping same type relays in the underhood PDC.
126334


From the FSM diagnostics:
29 - Non-DTC Diagnostics / Drivability - Gas / Diagnosis and Testing

ENGINE CRANKS BUT DOES NOT START

Possible Causes

5–VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN OR SHORTED
UNDERCHARGED BATTERY
SYSTEM DTCS PRESENT
POWERTRAIN POWER AND GROUND CIRCUIT(S) OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
POWERTRAIN FUSES OPEN
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM
FUEL CONTAMINATION
INADEQUATE SPARK
ENGINE MECHANICAL PROBLEM


Always perform the PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE before proceeding. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

1.UNDERCHARGED BATTERY

NOTE: Diagnose any 5-Volt Supply DTCs before continuing

NOTE: The Battery must be fully charged and in good condition. An undercharged Battery may produce invalid test results.

1. Test the battery in accordance with the Service Information.

Were any problems found?

Yes

•Charge or replace the Battery as necessary and retest.
•Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Go To 2


2.OPEN FUSE(S)

1. Inspect all of the fuses in the Fuse Panel. If any open fuses are found, check the related circuit(s) for a short to ground or high resistance.

Were any problems found?

Yes

•Repair as necessary.
•Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Go To 3


3.SYSTEM DTCS PRESENT

1. With the scan tool, select System DTCs to read DTCs in all modules. If any DTCs are present, perform the appropriate diagnostic procedure before continuing with this test. If a no response condition is detected in any module, and perform the appropriate No Response diagnostic procedure.

Were any problems found?

Yes

•Perform the appropriate diagnostic procedure and repair as necessary. If any pending DTCs are detected, perform the diagnostic procedure as if the DTC is active.
•Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Go To 4


4.PCM POWER OR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE

1. Perform the CHECKING THE PCM POWER AND GROUND CIRCUIT test procedure. (Refer to 29 - Non-DTC Diagnostics/Drivability - Gas - Diagnosis and Testing) .

Were any problems found?

Yes

•Repair as necessary in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Go To 5


5. CHECKING THE FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM

NOTE: Verify that the fuel tank is not empty before continuing.

1. Perform the CHECKING THE FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM test procedure. (Refer to 29 - Non-DTC Diagnostics/Drivability - Gas - Diagnosis and Testing) .

Were any problems found?

Yes

•Repair as necessary in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Go To 6


6.FUEL CONTAMINATION

1. Check the fuel system for contamination in accordance with the Service Information.

Was any evidence of fuel contamination found?

Yes

•Clean and repair the fuel system as necessary in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Go To 7


7. CHECKING THE IGNITION COIL OPERATION

1. Perform the diagnostic procedure for CHECKING THE IGNITION COIL OPERATION. (Refer to 29 - Non-DTC Diagnostics/Drivability - Gas - Diagnosis and Testing) .

Were any problems found?

Yes

•Repair as necessary in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Go To 8


8. CHECKING THE ENGINE MECHANICAL SYSTEM

1. Perform the diagnostic procedure for CHECKING THE ENGINE MECHANICAL SYSTEM. (Refer to 29 - Non-DTC Diagnostics/Drivability - Gas - Diagnosis and Testing) .

Were any problems found?

Yes

•Repair as necessary in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Test complete. Perform any Service Bulletins that may apply.
 

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Ok oil pressure is good, relays are good, fuel pressure is good. However removed spark plugs to check them and 2 are soaked in oil. Thinking maybe bad head gasket that caused it? Would this have anything to do with no compression? I know its not good and will now have to further look into the head gasket but right now my biggest concern is why Im not getting compression but it's cranking over and its like it almost wants to start.
What else should I check. What am I missing here??
 

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Oh also the ignitin coil is good. Also Im not sure if this is related to the issue at hand but it is something odd I noticed.....like I explained in my first post I was driving on hwy (cruise set at 70mph) when engine stalled. Just seconds before it did stall I had felt a real slight hesitation or hicup like I was running out of gas when I looked down at my dash panel only 1 light came on and it was the oil light. The check engine light never came just the oil. Until of course when I got it stopped and pulled over. Before I turned the key off all the normal lights appeared on dash just as they would/do when key is in the ON position before starting. But now when I have the key in the ON position before trying to start, all the dash lights appear EXCEPT for the OIL light. Any idea what that means or it means anything. Just something I notice.
 

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Ok oil pressure is good, relays are good, fuel pressure is good. However removed spark plugs to check them and 2 are soaked in oil. Thinking maybe bad head gasket that caused it? Would this have anything to do with no compression? I know its not good and will now have to further look into the head gasket but right now my biggest concern is why Im not getting compression but it's cranking over and its like it almost wants to start.
What else should I check. What am I missing here??
Oil on the spark plugs is from the spark plug tube seals in the valve cover that are leaking. It is not an internal engine problem like a head gasket or piston rings. The tubes are full of oil and when you remove the spark plug, oil flows down the threads onto the spark plug tip.
 

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Oh also the ignitin coil is good. Also Im not sure if this is related to the issue at hand but it is something odd I noticed.....like I explained in my first post I was driving on hwy (cruise set at 70mph) when engine stalled. Just seconds before it did stall I had felt a real slight hesitation or hicup like I was running out of gas when I looked down at my dash panel only 1 light came on and it was the oil light. The check engine light never came just the oil. Until of course when I got it stopped and pulled over. Before I turned the key off all the normal lights appeared on dash just as they would/do when key is in the ON position before starting. But now when I have the key in the ON position before trying to start, all the dash lights appear EXCEPT for the OIL light. Any idea what that means or it means anything. Just something I notice.
Have you checked the oil level?
 

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You have no compression because the valves are not closing.
The vales are not closing because you have air in the Multiair actuators / AKA Multiair Brick

You have to just keep cranking the hell out the engine until the actuators bleed out the air, and fill with oil.
I killed my battery at least 3 times, maybe 4 times, from just cranking it over 2 days.

Eventually the engine will regain compression and sputter back to life.

FYI, I learned about this because I had to completely take apart my engine after getting oil and coolant mixing together from a blown head gasket.
I did not use any special tool either when removing or replacing the multiair actuator / AKA Multiair Brick.
 
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