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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was having issues with my license plate light early this week. I've had it swapped over to LED for the past 2.5 years and the inline resistor I was using died. Causing the LED to flicker and give me the error on the dash.

I drove the car last night and noticed the racetracks weren't lighting up. I removed the LED/resistor and reinstalled the stock bulb this morning. All other lights function properly (reverse, license plate, taillights, headlights, etc) except the racetrack. Scanned the BCM using alfaobd and there's no codes relating to the racetrack. I checked the fuse diagrams and there isn't any fuses related to the racetrack. Disconnected the battery and waited for the power to drain out and it still didn't help. Searching through some wiring diagrams I see that the right stoplight/turn signal share a ground with the license plate light. According to a FCA tech the racetrack is fed off this same circuit.

Anyone have any suggestions? The car is still under warranty so the dealer is an option but I would like to know if there's anything I over looked prior to bringing it in. If its something I can fix myself I would prefer that

I've attached the diagram showing the common ground along with the full diagram
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=1068040
@alpinegreenneon any suggestions?

Text Line Parallel
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
If you can access the harness the racetracks plug into, can you confirm if the assembly is getting power when the headlights are on? That should tell you whether the problem an electrical gremlin or with the lighting assembly itself.
That's going to be my next step. Unfortunately I don't have my meter with me so I can't check on that until tomorrow

EDIT
I scanned the car again with alfaobd. The bcm isn't storing any codes but when I read the system status of the body programming module is lists:
Left Tail/Stop Fault Status: Fault Detected
Right Tail/Stop Fault Status: Fault Detected

I tried activating the component manually through the BCM active diagnostic and the taillights light up but the racetracks don't. I'll verify it with a meter but I'm pretty sure there was an issue with the common ground from the license plate and it fried the racetracks
 

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That's going to be my next step. Unfortunately I don't have my meter with me so I can't check on that until tomorrow
Well, hopefully it's just the lights that fried. That should be an easy warranty fix, once you get past the silly "No, my aftermarket exhaust did not cause the problem!" conversation. That is, assuming your dealer is a dork. Mine, which I am overall happy with, tried to convince me that I voided my powertrain warranty by doing my own oil changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@jsblanch my biggest complaint about the dart is having to deal with dodge dealers. I've had one good interaction when I had my uconnect replaced the first month of owning the car. Any time I go back it's a huge pain getting anything done. I've been meaning to take it in for warranty work (creaking struts, blown passenger speaker, module updates) and an inspection prior to September when my 3 year comprehensive is up. To make it less of a hassle for me I'll be removing all obvious mods (intake, spectrum, HIDS) prior to going in. I'm sure they would have some excuse as to why my intake killed the racetracks
 

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At the connector for the racetrack, the WT/GY wire feeds the positive for the racetrack light. From the connector on the racetrack, it changes to VT/WT. Disconnect the connector and check for voltage with the lights on. Make sure to use that black wire in the connector for the ground when you check. If your meter has a setting to check diodes, you might try testing that although I am not sure how a meter handles that many led's. If you have some jumper wires, you could try powering from a 9 volt battery or a spare 12 volt battery directly to the connector at the racetrack light.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks @alpinegreenneon I checked the wiring harness and there is 12v. I plugged it in to the racetrack plug and verified it was getting power. I guess it's safe to say the racetrack is dead. Thanks everyone for their suggestions
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was loading my car today and it came back on.


But after opening/closing the trunk it went on. I traced the wire loom down the trunk lid into the trunk and by squeezing on it I was able to have it come back on. Clearly there's a damaged wire somewhere in there. Thank god I still have warranty for 2 months
 

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Find the break in the wiring and splice in some new wire. The spot you pinched is where to start pulling away the black plastic conduit. Make sure to use solder and cover the splices with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. Harbor Freight sells marine heat shrink tubing that is adhesive lined. It's either the WT/GY or the BK ground wire. Who needs a warranty for less than a half hour playing with wire. If you were close, I would do it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I finally got this issue fixed. The dealer I went to (Cooksville Dodge in Mississauga) was completely useless. I had to take the car in 3 times and they were unable to fix the issue.

They replaced the racetrack light and when that didn't work they were completely at a loss. I told them from the beginning that the issue was with the wiring harness.

After my last visit yesterday I was more than fed up with them. Their "electrical specialist" was supposed to be working and I was told it wouldn't be an issue. I also asked them to look at a slow leak I had in the front driver's tire. I get a call at 2:30 saying that he couldn't figure it out and that they need to contact Chrysler engineering. I go pickup the car and the service department is closed and my car is sitting with a flat tire. Great customer service.

I decided to fix the issue myself this afternoon. I had the help of my dad who has been a master electrician for the past 30 years. I opened up the harness to find that the power wire to the racetrack and the wire to the trunk switch was broken. This explains why my trunk light and racetrack wasn't working. I soldered the wires back together and sealed everything up.




I was surprised by the damage to the other wires as well. I'm still unsure how it happened because the shielding on the outside wasn't damaged. I repaired all the broken wires and fixed the shielding on the others. Everything is now working properly.



Could someone post a pic of their harness because I don't believe this piece that was covering the affected area is factory. I'm thinking there may have been work done on this previously
 

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That piece does belong there. When I repair a harness section, I use black convoluted tubing if I had to cut it up and scotch 33+ electrical tape around the ends where it joins the original. The convoluted tubing is available at most auto parts stores. The tape is at the big box home repair stores. It's not such a gooey mess like most vinyl tape.
Auto part Vehicle Floor
 
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