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Discussion Starter #1
Are any of you guys experiencing a very un-smoothe build in power as you accelerate? Bare in mind my car has less than 150 miles and I am not getting on it very much. However, when I have, it seems to plateau multiple times as it builds power. Never felt a car do this before it feels like the boost must be leaking or the fuel isn't right...
 

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feels like the boost must be leaking
that's exactly what it is..

"Damn near FREE HP mod
Remove the cover off the engine and take a look at the charge pipe on the Driver's side. You should see the MAF sensor and the 3/8" vacuum line just prior to it. If you follow this line you will see that it goes to a Tee. One side goes to the intake manifold (I believe) and the other goes to the intake just prior to the turbo. There is NO check valve which means that this a direct boost leak. This is the reason for laggy boost and boost dropping off on the top end. I removed the hose on the charge pipe (driver's side). I place a rubber/plastic cap on the tube then placed the hose back on it. This effectively blocked off the flow. Now I have more TQ down low with a quicker spool and more HP up top with no boost leaks. The car is enjoyably to drive.

FYI we checked the Abarth and there IS a check valve in place. I am not sure if this was an oversight on the Dart or what. Either way it is HP left on the table for no apparent reason. I have no check engine lights or issue since making this change."
the effects are as advertised.. but..

looked at the SUSPECT hose and routing, basically its a balance hose from the Manifold(after throttle body) to the Intake pressure side, it is metered and feeds a electronic controlled valve, im assuming its for emissions control , possible carbon canister venting,,,it does have a TEE that back feeds to the intake system, LEAKING boost.... If you plug the like at the Pressure side then the evap system will not pull fumes from the canister properly. If u plug the LEAKING line to the intake system before the turbo then it will apply BOOST pressure to the EVAP system[/I


myself and a few other people have done it with no immediate issues.. of course do it at your own risk..

I am pretty sure this is what is being referred to:


IMG_9483 by SF18C, on Flickr
that's the line you plug coming off the cold side intercooler pipe.

There's a nipple (Giggity) on the cold side inter cooler pipe (going to the throttle body) with a U shaped rubber hose just in front of the MAF. I rigged a little rubber cap to put over it and just put the hose back on and clamped it down. I may be able to snag a pic after work.
that's how we did it..
 

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The Abarth 500 has the same set up with a check valve but no one can find a part number or anything for it.
 

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Actually the Abarth does not have the checkvalve as anticipated. I would use the same check valve that was used on the brake booster line next to the EVAP line. BTW the tiered power delivery is more related to boost pressure and ignition timing. Every change I have felt coincides with a large change in ignition timing and/or boost pressure. I am not sure how this relates to the Multiair setup. I have more datalogging to do.
 

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You are welcome. I created this thread on another Dart forum.
Wasn't trying to steal your thunder or anything. Just relaying info.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
We're all on the same team here gents, I appreciate your help. I'm glad someone is data logging already I would be interested in the results. I am not going to touch these canned tunes: once someone confirms a good means of access I will go straight to my dyno tuner. How are you accessing?
 

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that's exactly what it is..



the effects are as advertised.. but..



myself and a few other people have done it with no immediate issues.. of course do it at your own risk..



that's the line you plug coming off the cold side intercooler pipe.



that's how we did it..
What kind of cap did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Get two 3/8 caps from the local parts store and clamps to go with. I ended up using a clamp I had laying around because one of the stock clamps works and the other is too large.

photo.JPG
 

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That will work but I still recommend a check valve like the one in the top right corner of your picture. I'll see if I can source some. Buy in bulk and resell. Perhaps make a kit from it.

BTW I informed Chrysler of this in my survey.
 

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That will work but I still recommend a check valve like the one in the top right corner of your picture. I'll see if I can source some. Buy in bulk and resell. Perhaps make a kit from it.

BTW I informed Chrysler of this in my survey.
Hey Blitz, appreciate your sharing of this information.. read through your posts on other forums too. How's the check valve working out for you?

I'm not gonna cap it either because it's obviously got a function if its there. The check valve you note in the picture above is part of an assembly to include the hose and another check valve at the other end. The only check valve found in the system was the brake booster check valve which is the one that directly connects in to the brake booster, and that did not look like one for the job (and it was list price of 45 bucks!). I have the following check valves for like 10 bucks, should work fine right? Might need another small piece of hose to form the connection to the nipple unless put between the two hoses...



Also, I read where DL700 (i believe it was) had a dyno with the line capped and saw no performance gain... we're not expecting any performance gain out of this, correct? Just a more accessible powerband?
 

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Hey Blitz, appreciate your sharing of this information.. read through your posts on other forums too. How's the check valve working out for you?

I'm not gonna cap it either because it's obviously got a function if its there. The check valve you note in the picture above is part of an assembly to include the hose and another check valve at the other end. The only check valve found in the system was the brake booster check valve which is the one that directly connects in to the brake booster, and that did not look like one for the job (and it was list price of 45 bucks!). I have the following check valves for like 10 bucks, should work fine right? Might need another small piece of hose to form the connection to the nipple unless put between the two hoses...



Also, I read where DL700 (i believe it was) had a dyno with the line capped and saw no performance gain... we're not expecting any performance gain out of this, correct? Just a more accessible powerband?

I too am still looking for a suitable check valve to put in my place of the cap i wedged into the hose. Blitz, let us know when you have a part # from Dodge or anywhere for that matter.

And I dont think we are getting any more power (evinced by DL700s dyno pull). BUT we are getting a smoother powerband, and the boost seems to be coming on a bit sooner in the RPM range. I'm very happy with it thus far and have put on approx 800 miles with no problems/codes/etc.
 

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I too am still looking for a suitable check valve to put in my place of the cap i wedged into the hose. Blitz, let us know when you have a part # from Dodge or anywhere for that matter.

And I dont think we are getting any more power (evinced by DL700s dyno pull). BUT we are getting a smoother powerband, and the boost seems to be coming on a bit sooner in the RPM range. I'm very happy with it thus far and have put on approx 800 miles with no problems/codes/etc.
Well, i picked up the check valve I mentioned for $4 and it required wayyy too many connectors and short pieces of hose to get it to fit in there because the diameter of the check valve ends... I also didn't the boost at a lower RPM but it was only a short drive... gonna play around with it tomorrow, maybe cap it first so I know how it should feel.

I put the check valve on so that air flow was restricted to flowing DOWN.. is that correct?
 

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Your post helped me realize what I had overlooked... the cheal generic valve I got probably can't withstand the temperature... It was hot to the touch when I took it out... I just capped the lines for now and will wait for a better valve product number.
 

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Can anyone summarize this thread for the car and acronym illiterate? What was found to be occurring, what was modded and the results of said modding?
 
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