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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone,

Ive got this issue thats just ticking me off. My remote start has been working fine until i hit 29,000 miles on the dot in which it would sporadically work first thing in the morning to where it is now not at all. I found that the range over the last few miles would lessen as it got worse (thought it was the fob lol) to a point where it would only start while standing at the driver side door which of course is useless. It would not start at the passenger side door though which leads me to believe the module is closer to that side of the car.

Whats been irritating the heck out of me isnt the fact that it doesnt work in the morning its that it doesnt work when its cold as hell and there would be nothing better then to walk outside to an already heated car which ive grown accustomed to. You cant just take something like that away...

Now heres where it gets weird and extremely annoying at least in my opinion: After ive ran the car for just a little bit remote start works 100% of the time even from 1.5 city blocks away, through walls, fences, dogs, etc all within reason of course. This is driving me up a wall though because silicon does not freeze until i think -20C so it should function perrrrrfectly fine at 40F just like everything else...copper antennas nor does water for that matter at 40 either so what gives...Condensation maybe?

My real question is does anyone know what controls the remote start module? It it a little chip with some antennae behind the push start button, something in the uconnect radio or something else?

I always want to know whats really being done prior to getting it done! Though if its one of those no brainer items i might just replace it myself and skip most of the dealer...
 

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Some reading from the FSM.

08 - Electrical / 8E - Electronic Control Modules / MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) / Description


dartrfhm.jpg
DESCRIPTION

The Remote Frequency Hub Module (RFHM) is an integrated receiver in the vehicle that interfaces with the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) FOBIK using both the RF and LF frequency. The RF Hub contains the controlling logic for the Passive Entry Keyless Go (PEKG) feature, Electronic Steering Column Lock (ESCL) module (if so equipped),Keyless Ignition Node (KIN), and the IGNM. The RFHM communicates on the CAN C vehicle communication bus and on a dedicated KIN line with the KIN. The RFHM also interfaces with the vehicle’s door handles, trunk/Lift gate (as equipped) and multiple LF antennas for purposes of providing PEKG functionality. When the driver of the vehicle activates the KIN or IGNM to start the car, the RFHM verifies that the correct fob or key is present and requests the engine controller to start the car. There are several models of the RFHM that support NAFTA, BUX and Japan markets. Different signal supporting options include automatic transmission, manual transmission, Rotary ignition system using IGNM switch, Passive Entry KEYLESS GO system using smart door handles and KIN switch, and remote start.

Systems and features supported by the RFHM include:

•Brake Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) System
•Ignition System
•Passive Entry (PE) Keyless Go (KG) Systems
•Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) System
•Remote Start System
•Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS)
•Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) System


OPERATION

The Radio Frequency Hub Module (RFHM) (also known as the RF Hub/RFH) is an integrated receiver (or base station) in the vehicle that communicates with other electronic modules in the vehicle over either the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus or a private serial bus to support the following standard and optional vehicle features or systems.

•Brake Transmission Shift Interlock System (for automatic Transmission only) - The RFHM contains the controlling logic for the Brake Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) solenoid. The RFHM monitors the key position from the IGnition Node Module (IGNM) received over a private serial bus, hard wires brake input as well as inputs received over the CAN data bus to perform the BTSI solenoid control functions.
•Ignition Systems - Depending upon how the vehicle is equipped, Rotary Switch system or Keyless GO system. For rotary system, IGnition Node Module IGNM coil communicate with FOBIK through LF signals (125 KHz) then communicates it to RFHM through a private LIN bus, then RFHM sends CAN data bus to BCM for IGNTION status after valid key is verified. The RFHM also contains the controlling logic for the KG (KIN) back lighting features.
•Passive Entry - If Smart door handles or exterior deck lid release switch is activated, RFHM sends and receives LF signals from five Low Frequency (LF) antennas which wake up and communicate with the FOBIK, and RF signals from FOBIK to verify the key, if valid key is recognized by RFHM then RFHM sends CAN data bus to BCM to lock or unlock the vehicle.
•Remote Keyless Entry - The RFHM is an RF receiver that monitors RF signals from Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter (FOBIK) and relays the appropriate electronic messages to the BCM module over the CAN data bus to support the features of RKE functions.
•Remote Start System - The RFHM is an RF receiver that monitors RF signals received through the remote start antenna (longer range) from the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter or the Passive Entry Keyless Go (PEKG) FOBIK. The RFHM relays the appropriate electronic messages to BCM over the CAN data bus to support all RKE functions including optional remote start function.
•Sentry Key Immobilizer System - RFHM uses a new high security encryption system called “Advanced Encryption Standard –AES” for the Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS). The new system marries FOBIKs, RFHM, BCM, ELV (if so equipped) and ECM with unique secret keys for each vehicle. Swapping parts ARE NOT ALLOWED in the new system, FOBIKS are not allow to program for more than one Vehicle. Replacing any part of the system should be done only in Chrysler authorized dealers using Chrysler diagnostic tool.
•Tire Pressure Monitor System - The RFHM is an RF receiver that monitors RF signals received from the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) sensors and then relays the appropriate electronic messages to other electronic modules in the vehicle over the CAN data bus to support the features of the TPM system.
•Vehicle Theft Alarm System - The RFHM is an RF receiver that monitors RF signals received from the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter or the Passive Entry Keyless Go (PEKG) FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK) and then relays the appropriate electronic messages to other electronic modules in the vehicle over the CAN data bus to support the features of the optional VTA system.

The RFHM is connected to a fused B(+) circuit and has a path to a clean ground at all times. These connections allow it to remain functional regardless of the ignition switch status. Any input to the RFHM that controls a vehicle system function that does not require that the ignition switch status be ON such as depressing a button on an RKE or FOBIK transmitter, prompts the RFHM to wake up and transmit on the CAN data bus.

The Body Control Module (BCM) stores and compares vehicle configuration data with the RFHM as well as with other Electronic Control Units (ECU) in the vehicle. This process is referred to as PRogramming Of Configuration of Systems Integrated (PROCSI) (also known as PROXI). If a configuration mismatch is detected, the BCM sets a DTC. A configuration mismatch DTC will require the performance of a Restore BCM PROXI Configuration routine, or a PROXI Configuration Alignment routine using a diagnostic scan tool.

RFHM uses On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) to monitor all of the Functions and circuits it controls, then sets active and stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) for any monitored function faults it detects. RFHM will also send electronic message requests to the Instrument Cluster (IC) (also known as the Instrument Panel Cluster/IPC) through the gate way module (BCM) for the display of certain textual warning messages related to some detected functions, conditions, or faults.

The hard wired inputs and outputs of the RFHM may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the RFHM electronic controls or the communication between modules and other devices that provide some features of the RFHM controlled systems. The most reliable, efficient and accurate means to diagnose the RFHM or the electronic controls and communication related to RFHM controlled systems operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.

•Vehicle Theft Alarm (VTA) System

The RFHM is located near the center of the shelf support behind the rear seat back and is concealed beneath the package tray interior trim. It is secured through two mounting tabs integral to the module housing to the shelf support by two plastic push-in fasteners. Concealed and protected within the molded black plastic RFHM housing is the microcontroller and the other electronic circuitry of the module.

Depending upon vehicle equipment, either one or two connector receptacles (1 and 3) integral to the RFHM housing are connected to the vehicle electrical system through dedicated take outs and connectors of the body wire harness. In vehicles with the optional remote start system, a remote start antenna is located adjacent to the RFHM on the shelf support and is connected directly to the RFHM through a third integral connector receptacle (2).

The RFHM cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if damaged or ineffective, it must be replaced.




08 - Electrical / 8E - Electronic Control Modules / MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) / Module Programming

PROGRAMMING THE RF-HUB

NOTE:
If a BCM is also going to be replaced at this time, check the "RF-HUB, BCM, FOBIK REPLACEMENT AND PROGRAMMING ORDER GUIDE" before proceeding. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules - Standard Procedure) .

NOTE:
Do not put a laptop or any wireless device (cell phones, audio devices etc.) near the top of the center console (the RKE antenna is located below the center console).


1.After the RF-Hub has been replaced with new unit, connect the diagnostic scan tool to the Data Link Connector (DLC).

2.Navigate to the RF-Hub (RFH) in the "Vehicle View" of the diagnostic scan tool.

3.With the scan tool select “RF-Hub” and perform the “RF-HUB Replace” routine.

NOTE:
This procedure will require you to log into DealerCONNECT and enter a PIN when requested. The PIN is temporary and will be active for 12 hours. After 12 hours, a new PIN will need to be obtained from DealerCONNECT.

4.Select “Misc. Function” and perform the “PROXI Configuration Alignment” routine.

5.Put all the FOBiKs used in this vehicle on the front seat away from the console.

6.With the scan tool select: "Program ignition FOBIKs" in the Miscellaneous Functions menu and follow the instructions on the screen.

NOTE:
When programming a FOBIK, have it in your hand resting on the console.

NOTE:
When you are instructed to "Press the Unlock button" it is important that you do not hold the button. Press it One time quickly.

NOTE: This procedure will require you to log into DealerCONNECT and enter a PIN when requested. The PIN is temporary and will be active for 12 hours. After 12 hours, a new PIN will need to be obtained from DealerCONNECT.

7.After all the FOBIKs have been programmed, turn the ignition on and with the scan tool select “BCM”.

8.Update the Front and Rear Axle Normal Tire Pressure Values.

9.Program the Tire Sensor IDs.

10. Turn the ignition to the OFF position, wait 30 seconds, then cycle the ignition back to the ON/RUN position.

11.Check for any active RF-Hub DTCs. If any are present, go to Section 28 and perform the appropriate procedure.

12.Turn the ignition off and check each FOBiK for proper operation.

13.Finish the installation procedure (if necessary). (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) - Installation).

14.Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure).
 

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Some more from the FSM:
29 - Non-DTC Diagnostics / Starting / Diagnosis and Testing

REMOTE START INHIBITORS

The following table below is a list of possible causes for the inoperative Remote Start System. If any of the following conditions exist, the Remote Start System will not work. Use this information as a guide to the diagnosis of the Remote Start System.

• ABORT
• BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
• BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
• BRAKE PRESSED
• COOLANT TEMPERATURE HIGH
• CRANK NO START
• DRIVER DOOR AJAR
• PASSENGER DOOR AJAR
• LEFT REAR DOOR AJAR
• RIGHT REAR DOOR AJAR
• TRUNK/LIFTGATE AJAR
• HOOD AJAR
• NO HOOD SWITCH (INOPERATIVE)
• FUEL LEVEL LOW
• EXCESSIVE GLOW PLUG TIME (DIESEL ONLY)
• FAILED COUNTER REACHED (START)
• HAZARD LAMPS (SWITCH PRESSED)
• IGNITION IN RUN/START
• IGNITION NOT IN LOCK
• IGNITION SNA (SIGNAL NOT AVAILABLE FROM OTHER MODULE)
• INVALID KEY
• KEY IN IGNITION
• LOW RPM SHUTDOWN
• MIL ON
• NO AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
• NORMAL TIME OUT CUSTOMER ACCESS
• NORMAL TIME OUT RUN MODE (15 MINUTES)
• NOT CONFIGURED
• NOT ENABLED
• NOT IN PARK OR NEUTRAL
• NOT PROGRAMMED
• OIL PRESSURE LOW
• PANIC MODE (ACTIVATED)
• POWER LOSS
• RKE OFF MESSAGE
• RPM TOO HIGH (EXCEEDS 2500)
• START COUNTER REACHED
• VEHICLE SPEED HIGH
• VTA ALARMING

If all of the previous items checked OK, and the remote starting system will not operate, refer to the REMOTE START POOR PERFORMANCE diagnostic procedure.(Refer to 29 - Non-DTC Diagnostics/Starting - Diagnosis and Testing) .


29 - Non-DTC Diagnostics / Starting / Diagnosis and Testing

REMOTE START INOPERATIVE (BCM - RF HUB EQUIPPED)

For a complete wiring diagram, refer to the Wiring Information.


Theory of Operation

The customer may notice that the signal range of the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) system is reduced. This condition may be due to the RKE antenna where the RKE key fob may need to be closer than 3 meters (10 feet) before the functions available on the key fob will operate. The diagnostic test is provided as a diagnostic aid for the dealer technician.

It is necessary to confirm the correct sales code(s) are present in the Standard and Optional Equipment sections of DealerCONNECT to determine if a factory or a Mopar Accessory Remote Start kit was installed. If the vehicle has a Mopar Accessory Remote Start kit, verify that at least 20 minutes has elapsed since the sales codes were added to DealerCONNECT. Once it has been confirmed that the proper sales codes have been added and the allotted time has passed, verify the vehicle has been configured properly using the scan tool. Also, make sure that the system shows as enabled in the BCM and that the temporary remote start override is set to disabled.

For any further assistance on diagnosing the installed Mopar Accessory kit contact the Mopar Accessories group at 800-84-MOPAR (66787).

Diagnostic Test


1. REMOTE START FUNCTION

NOTE:
In some cases the vehicle will start then stall, indicating a fuel level concern (less than a quarter of a tank). Before proceeding verify there is enough fuel in the tank for the vehicle to start and run.

1. Attempt to start the vehicle with the FOBIK.

Does the vehicle start when using the FOBIK?

Yes

•At this time the Remote Start is functioning properly.
•Using the scan tool, check for any related Starting, Communication, or Ignition related DTCs that may inhibit the Remote Starting feature. Check the BCM for any previous Remote Start Inhibits and mileage that were stored. Inhibits may be found under the system tests or miscellaneous functions tab.

No

•Go To 2



2. REMOTE START VISUAL CHECK

1. While pressing the remote start button on the FOBIK, observe the exterior lights and the horn operation.

Does the horn sound and the exterior parking lights flash?

Yes

•Go To 3

No

• Go To 4



3. CHECKING BCM INHIBITS

NOTE:
Since the horn sounds and the parking lights flash, this verifies the BCM is receiving the CAN BUS message from the RF HUB. It also verifies the RF signal for Remote Start from the FOBIK to the RF HUB is operating correctly.

1. Using the scan tool, check the Remote Start inhibits of the BCM or any ACTIVE DTCs listed in all modules.

NOTE:
Inhibits may be found under the system tests or miscellaneous functions tab. The fuel level may not be a listed inhibit.

Are there any Remote Start inhibits or any ACTIVE DTCs listed in the entire vehicle?

Yes

•For any inhibits(Refer to 08 - Electrical/Starting/Diagnosis and Testing) for a complete list of Remote Start inhibits.
•For any ACTIVE DTCs, perform the appropriate diagnostic procedure in Section 28.

No

•Check for any related TSBs prior to replacing the BCM. If no related TSBs are found, then replace the BCM in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Body Control/Removal) .



4. RKE FUNCTION SHORT RANGE

1. While standing next to the Driver door and using the FOBIK, attempt to lock and unlock the doors.

Does the RKE function properly?

Yes

•Go To 5

No

•Go To 7



5. RKE FUNCTION MID RANGE

1. While standing 20 feet from the vehicle and using the FOBIK, attempt to lock and unlock the doors.

Does the RKE function properly at 20 feet?

Yes

•Go To 6

No

•Go To 7



6. RKE FUNCTION LONG RANGE

1. While standing 100 feet from the vehicle and using the FOBIK, attempt to lock and unlock the doors.

Does the RKE function properly at 100 feet?

Yes

•Go To 9

No

•Go To 7



7. FOBIK SIGNAL STRENGTH

1. Use the RF Tester 9001 to check the signal strength of the FOBIK.

Does the FOBIK pass?

Yes

•Go To 10

No

•Go To 8



8. CHECKING THE FOBIK

1. Replace the battery in the FOBIK with a known good battery and recheck the signal from the FOBIK with the RF Tester 9001.

Does the FOBIK pass?

Yes

•Go To 9

No

•Check for any related TSBs prior to replacing the FOBIK. If no related TSBs are found, then replace the FOBIK in accordance with the Service Information.



9. CHECKING FOR ACTIVE DTCs

NOTE:
The RKE portion of the FOBIK is operational, this verifies that the RF HUB is capable of receiving signals and communicating to operate the locks.

1. Use the scan tool to check for ACTIVE DTCs.

Did the scan tool show any ACTIVE DTCs in the entire vehicle?

Yes

•Diagnose the DTCs in accordance with the Service Information before proceeding with the Remote Start Inoperative concern.

No

•Go To 10



10. CHECKING THE RF HUB

NOTE:
Even though the RKE function of the system may work with no concern, the BCM is either not receiving a message or is receiving a corrupt message from the RF HUB for remote start operation.


1. While sitting in the driver seat and using the scan tool, monitor the RF HUB on the data display screen for changes when the Remote Start button of the FOBIK is pressed.


Did the status change when the Remote Start button of the FOBIK was pressed?

Yes

•Go To 11

No

•Go To 12



11. CHECKING BCM INHIBITS

NOTE:
The parking lights flash and the horn are inoperative when using the FOBIK, this indicates a faulty BCM or “Inhibit” that may be preventing the start request from occuring.


1. Use the scan tool to check for any Remote Start inhibits listed in the BCM. This may be found under the system tests or miscellaneous functions tab.


Were there any Remote Start inhibits listed in the BCM?

Yes

•Perform the REMOTE START SYSTEM Diagnosing and Testing. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/Starting/Diagnosis and Testing) .

No

•If this has had a Mopar Accessory kit installed verify the correct Sales Code for Remote Start has been added to Dealer Connect and a Restore Vehicle Configuration has been performed.
•Confirm the system is enabled; and the temporary Remote Start override is set to disabled in the BCM and contact the Mopar Accessories group (800–84–Mopar) for further details before proceeding.
•If this has a factory installed Remote Start, check for any related TSBs prior to replacing the BCM. If no related TSBs are found, then replace the BCM in accordance with the Service Information.



12. CHECKING THE REMOTE START ANTENNA

1. Cycle the ignition off

2. Disconnect the Remote Start antenna from the RF Hub.

3. Using one FOBIK and sitting in the driver’s seat, attempt to start the vehicle.

Did the vehicle start?

Yes

•Replace the Remote Start Antenna in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST.

No

•Verify all power, ground, communication circuits, & connections to the RF HUB prior to replacing. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) /Removal).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So it's essentially an entire module with multiple antennae for various services. Seems like according to that description it's one unit internally too where the antennae are connected using standard coax connectors...my antenna might be collecting water for that module as well as my rki....remote keyless entry as that's failed so many times it's insane however I chalk it up to I'm not making proper contact with both door sensors and when it fails I'm also usually in a rush so hand in hand.

Do we have any idea where this is precisely? I've seen something very similar to the pic and may have skimmed over some of it (long read...) So I'm a little in the dark as to it's location. I could probably fix it if it's a natural leak or simple disconnect, but obviously not replace it since it needs to be synced or programmed with the fob using something I don't have...I guess fobik is the term?
 

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So it's essentially an entire module with multiple antennae for various services. Seems like according to that description it's one unit internally too where the antennae are connected using standard coax connectors...my antenna might be collecting water for that module as well as my rki....remote keyless entry as that's failed so many times it's insane however I chalk it up to I'm not making proper contact with both door sensors and when it fails I'm also usually in a rush so hand in hand.

Do we have any idea where this is precisely? I've seen something very similar to the pic and may have skimmed over some of it (long read...) So I'm a little in the dark as to it's location. I could probably fix it if it's a natural leak or simple disconnect, but obviously not replace it since it needs to be synced or programmed with the fob using something I don't have...I guess fobik is the term?
I think "FOBIK" is Chrysler's brand name for their key fobs. If I'm not mistaken the receiver is under the rear shelf, in the trunk, but I could be wrong about that. Does the remote start do nothing at all when you try to use it? Like, it doesn't cause the tail lights to flash once and then give you a message when you get in the car that "remote start is disabled", or something to that effect?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No, it doesn't do diddily which is why I tested it getting closer and closer each time til I was at the driver side window...I half expected a code on the uconnect or dash but neither...just a blinking alarm light which at a couple points I thought responded to the remote start clicks but it ended up being me going insane at 5am half tired taking the wife to work also half naked in the cold.

I don't think it's in the trunk area...thinking back I might have seen it near the factoru amp under the passenger dash and I've wired my underbody light kit as well as sub through the trunk all while pulling the panels to hide it all so I know it's not there...

Good guess though any feedback is super appreciated!
 

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No, it doesn't do diddily which is why I tested it getting closer and closer each time til I was at the driver side window...I half expected a code on the uconnect or dash but neither...just a blinking alarm light which at a couple points I thought responded to the remote start clicks but it ended up being me going insane at 5am half tired taking the wife to work also half naked in the cold.

I don't think it's in the trunk area...thinking back I might have seen it near the factoru amp under the passenger dash and I've wired my underbody light kit as well as sub through the trunk all while pulling the panels to hide it all so I know it's not there...

Good guess though any feedback is super appreciated!
I googled it, and found this video:


It's on top of the rear shelf, under the panel.
 

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Sorry, I doubted you...that is something I haven't pulled off in over a year since I replaced the 3.5s...i forgot about it and the thought I saw it seemed odd since I have a pictographic memory and what I recall was completely lit up. I've also seen the same crap in Mercedes at pick n pull so i....yeah..

That makes sense though and it's easy to get to so might be able to look at it without too much work...I'll post pics if all goes well. On a side note I'll try to start it from the rear tomorrow and see what happens.

Thank you!
 

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Sorry, I doubted you...that is something I haven't pulled off in over a year since I replaced the 3.5s...i forgot about it and the thought I saw it seemed odd since I have a pictographic memory and what I recall was completely lit up. I've also seen the same crap in Mercedes at pick n pull so i....yeah..

That makes sense though and it's easy to get to so might be able to look at it without too much work...I'll post pics if all goes well. On a side note I'll try to start it from the rear tomorrow and see what happens.

Thank you!
No worries, I was honestly just going on what I remembered reading here on the forums for its location. Honestly, that's about the most accessible piece of electronics you're ever going to find in a car!
 

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I'm having the same problems. However, there is no way I'm spending my free time during -18 F days looking to fix this issue. That's the problem, it works great till it's super cold. Sometimes I'm able to lock, then unlock the car, and it works. That's all I know so far.
 

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if you any codes, the remote start won't work
Codes aren't the issue. After looking over the posts from alpinegreenneon, I am guessing it has to do with engine coolant temp sensors. Sensors tend to have a range, and it's doubtful that Mopar considered that the coolant temp could get down to -0 F temps, so it's very possible that is throwing issues.

Mine would not remote start either. shortly after i couldn't start my car at all. I replaced my vehicles battery with an AGM replacement and have had no issues at all in the cold.
Battery could be an issue. That's one I would consider looking into.
 

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Codes aren't the issue. After looking over the posts from alpinegreenneon, I am guessing it has to do with engine coolant temp sensors. Sensors tend to have a range, and it's doubtful that Mopar considered that the coolant temp could get down to -0 F temps, so it's very possible that is throwing issues.


Battery could be an issue. That's one I would consider looking into.
rest assured the sensor can go to -40 without problem. I would check the battery first, if it try to start but won't, it will simply disable the remote until you start it yourself.
 

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Codes aren't the issue. After looking over the posts from alpinegreenneon, I am guessing it has to do with engine coolant temp sensors. Sensors tend to have a range, and it's doubtful that Mopar considered that the coolant temp could get down to -0 F temps, so it's very possible that is throwing issues.


Battery could be an issue. That's one I would consider looking into.
I remote started my car this morning and it was -4 F. I've previously used it when my car had been sitting overnight in temps colder than -25 F. I have never used the block heater on my Dart. After sitting overnight, the coolant temperature (as well as the temperature of everything else in the car) will be the same as the ambient temperature.

When my battery gave up the ghost last winter, it's true that the remote start did absolutely nothing, but then again, the car would not start at all. I just had the clicking gauges of death, which is typically how you know your battery is done in the Dart.
 

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Well, my car will sit in -10 F temps outside tonight since I'll be at work. If it doesn't remote start in the morning, I'll look and see if there are any messages on the display.
 

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So a little update here. On Tuesday morning the car remote started just fine. It sat outside all night long, and it was COLD! About -16 F and windy.

This morning, it also started right up after sitting all night at work. Then I drove around to do some errands, and the car would NOT remote start for me. I'm just guessing here, but those trips wern't very long, and maybe the battery is getting close to giving up the ghost. It does start when I hop in, press the brake, and use the dash push button. After my second stop of the day, I walked right up to the car, tried the remote start (it failed), and watched the dash to see if anything would be displayed on it. Nothing. No saved system messages, no CEL, nothing.
 

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So a little update here. On Tuesday morning the car remote started just fine. It sat outside all night long, and it was COLD! About -16 F and windy.

This morning, it also started right up after sitting all night at work. Then I drove around to do some errands, and the car would NOT remote start for me. I'm just guessing here, but those trips wern't very long, and maybe the battery is getting close to giving up the ghost. It does start when I hop in, press the brake, and use the dash push button. After my second stop of the day, I walked right up to the car, tried the remote start (it failed), and watched the dash to see if anything would be displayed on it. Nothing. No saved system messages, no CEL, nothing.
When you started it up after the cold night, did the engine crank over normally or did it crank over somewhat slowly and struggle to start?
 

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When you started it up after the cold night, did the engine crank over normally or did it crank over somewhat slowly and struggle to start?
It's always been normal. I have not experienced a slow crank or anything like that. I've always been a little worried about the battery though due to that issue where some of the Darts have started on fire, so I think I'm just gonna replace it regardless.
 
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