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U11E9 makes perfect sense if the wire was open. If you disconnect the negative battery terminal for about 5 minutes, it should reset. Just loosen the terminal nut, no need to remove it and possibly lose it.
See this link about splicing wire:

28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics / MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM), 2.0L / Diagnosis and Testing

U11E9-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH AGS

When Monitored and Set Conditions

When Monitored: This diagnostic runs continuously when the following conditions are met:

•With the engine running and battery voltage between 11.0 and 16.0 volts.
•Ambient Air Temperature or Engine Coolant Temperature above -7°C (19.4°F).

Set Conditions:

•The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) does not receive a valid LIN BUS message from the Active Grill Shutter Assembly for 2.6 seconds.


Default Actions:

•MIL is illuminated on the second consecutive trip that the diagnostic fails.
•If AGS detects a LIN bus error it will default to open position.


Possible Causes

LIN BUS CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
LIN BUS CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE
ACTIVE GRILL SHUTTER FUSED B+ CIRCUIT OPEN
ACTIVE GRILL SHUTTER FUSED B+ CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
ACTIVE GRILL SHUTTER GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks for the post....that'll be helpful. Doubt I'll get to look at it this evening...youngest has indoor flag football. I will however check those codes and clear them to see if it's the same code and how quickly it comes back. I have a feeling I have some wire chasing in my future. This isn't my first rodeo with electrical problems but I hate those about as much as any....they can drive you nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Looked at that wiring again....that plug is done. I have to do some hunting but initially it looks like it's going to be hard to find that pigtail. I just did some quick searches out in the garage and called a couple dealerships. Discontinued so I have to figure out how to Jerry rig something in there probably.

Edit: found it on ebay...at least one that says it's the same part number so hopefully that's it.
125378
 

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There was a thread about sourcing that connector:
Problem is there are minimum quantities. I did find this:
There might be others if you google the aftermarket part number, 13593465, looks like a Aptiv Delphi number.

Have you tried your local self serve junkyards for wrecked Darts?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I found that mouser link somewhere....sold in multiples of 300 with a 15 week lead time haha. I'll give the eBay one a try. I also plan to defeat those shutters doing the screw mod I think. Only takes 1 parking block and I'm trying to find another one.

Also notice looking at those pics the plug on ours is missing a piece. Makes me even more hopeful this will fix the issue so I don't have to keep trouble shooting. Notice ours doesn't have the white piece I see on the other plugs.
125379
 

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When you get the pigtail, try not cutting any wires. The connector should disassemble. The white part spaces the terminals and also covers the tiny tabs that lock the terminals. If you use a tiny screwdriver on those tabs the wires should pull out the back. The new connector should also disassemble. If there is a wire broken, then you should cut that wire and make sure to splice with solder and adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Did some work tonight....not good news. Replaced that plug for shutters and no luck. Start chasing that white/red wire back and found it's green inside at least 2 feet from motor. Going to guess it's green all the way back. Also an orange/white wire I found green in. Passenger side fog light isn't working so probably that. My neighbor is a dealership tech for Toyota. Going to get on all data and print me a schematic. Looks like I have some wiring in my future. I also have to figure out the violet/red wires going to shutter motor. I wasn't seeing any voltage at those but not sure if they're supposed to be hot at the plug or if the Lin bus switches them hot. Hot at the fuse and ground is good...that's about all I know for sure right now. Just tackle it a wire at a time...starting with the white/red wire.
 

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125436


125437
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks. I'd looked at that bottom schematic when you posted it earlier. That looks to me like those vt/Rd wires should be hot at the plug...if I'm reading that right. I have nothing there. Someone has messed with those wires before for some reason...maybe trying to fix the shutters. There's a couple mystery wires. One is a terminated red/BLK in the fuse box that looks like it could be factory terminated and another on the outside that's unhooked that I've yet to figure where it went....looks like 1 someone added for something. It disappears behind the fender liner. One of the perks of a used car I guess. Looks like that orange/white is for that fog so I'll be fixing at least a couple wires.
Terminated wire:
125438


Owner added:
125439
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Looking at it again...I don't think that one in the box is factory terminated. No idea what it's for though.
 

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The schematics are for a 2016 Dart. 2013 could have used different colors. You could check the Mopar connector site pinouts for 2013 wire colors. Even if the colors are different, where they start and end should be the same. Fuse 19, 10 amp, in the PDC should be supplying B+ to the shutter connector.
That wire by the PDC in your pics is obviously not factory.

Mopar connector site:
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Right...the wire on the outside by the battery was added but I think the wire in the top pic is a factory wire as it runs in the harness it looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Looking at replacing the whole harness now. [MDX] [LNJ] [XBM] are codes for fogs, remote start, and active grill shutters. Found those on our build sheet so I'm assuming I need the one for $209. Agree? I'm going to try and run wires first but for $200 might be worth it just to replace that whole thing. I'd like to do the section from that plug behind headlight to the pcm but would need the [HAA] harness which is $700. Only do that one if I absolutely have to.
#7 on diagram is the one from plug behind headlight forward

I will also scour the web and see if I can find them cheaper
 

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Or, you might get lucky at a self serve junkyard?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks for all your help. Got it fixed. Not really the right way but the way that saves me a couple hundred dollars on a harness. I went back far enough on the white LinBus wire to get good wire and ran a new one from there to the pigtail then ran a dedicated 10a fused line from the battery and split it to the 2 hots. Works like a champ. Ran everything in convoluted tubing and tucked up and zip tied.
 

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That's what schematics are for! Glad I could help.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Wish I could say I'm completely done with it but I still have to run that wire for the passenger fog. That's cake walk though. Then it's key fob time which is also easy stuff. Just knock it all out 1 thing at a time.
Hopefully at some point I'll be able to mess with my truck haha....going to level it and put bilsteins on it.
 

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Wish I could say I'm completely done with it but I still have to run that wire for the passenger fog. That's cake walk though. Then it's key fob time which is also easy stuff. Just knock it all out 1 thing at a time.
Hopefully at some point I'll be able to mess with my truck haha....going to level it and put bilsteins on it.
It's always something. I just put a ton of money into my Blazer daily driver. Replaced all the calipers, brake lines, master cylinder, fuel lines, did the intake gasket, spark plugs. So did all that brake work and things were finally good, and shortly after, my brakes start squeaking...I bought pads but figured I would hold off until spring and get rotors and change all 4. My buddy and I noticed the pads and rotors were old, but still had tons of life on them. So decided to wait. So now I need to figure out what is exactly squeaking but it's driving me nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Blazer gonna blazer haha.....those things should come with a spare lower intake gasket, brake/fuel lines, and fuel pump when you buy them haha. I've been a long time GM guy that recently started buying Dodge stuff.

Reuse old pads/rotors it sounds like? Probably the root of your noise. Could always pull them and whiz wheel the rotors and hit the pads with sand paper laying flat on the floor but by the time you do that you might as well swap them.
When you do pads/rotors I've had good luck with brake motive's stuff on eBay. Do not use Detroit axle. Decent enough rotors but their pads are garbage. Made that mistake last set I did. I was super impressed with them initially but started squealing a month or so after the install. Ended up yanking the pads and swapping them.
 

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Blazer gonna blazer haha.....those things should come with a spare lower intake gasket, brake/fuel lines, and fuel pump when you buy them haha. I've been a long time GM guy that recently started buying Dodge stuff.

Reuse old pads/rotors it sounds like? Probably the root of your noise. Could always pull them and whiz wheel the rotors and hit the pads with sand paper laying flat on the floor but by the time you do that you might as well swap them.
When you do pads/rotors I've had good luck with brake motive's stuff on eBay. Do not use Detroit axle. Decent enough rotors but their pads are garbage. Made that mistake last set I did. I was super impressed with them initially but started squealing a month or so after the install. Ended up yanking the pads and swapping them.
Was probably just going to go with power stop on Rock auto. And yeah it's an annoying noise, but I might just leave it until spring. Just want to make sure it's not something else that might cause brake failure or improper braking. Other than the noise, it brakes just as it did.

And yeah since the parts seemed to have enough life in them, we just lubed up all the moving parts and put the old ones back in. Figured okay 4 months will be fine. 1 month later -_-
 
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