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Discussion Starter #241
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Question to Deyeme, How do you say Deyeme.. Is it like 'daimee', or 'dayum', or something else?
Dee Em, like saying the letters D, M. It's a long story, and I think I posted it in another thread here in this subforum. When we started Deyeme Racing in 1997, we wanted a way to spell out the letters D M into a word. We were planning on racing in D-Modified class. As a fledgling race team, I didn't really think much of it at the time... and it just kinda stuck ;)
 

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I swear when I called Travis he said Day-me lol. Oh well, D M it is!

btw Travis, my gf’s dart is running much better 2 months after installing all 3 flex mounts. That first month was like space training every time you hit the throttle lol.

Unfortunate for my car, I think my driver side mount is leaking... so may be back for another soon!
 

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where can I get the upgraded Mounts at? I have a 2016 Dodge Dart SXT 2.0 Automatic.
I have the Deyeme Rear Mount (flex). It is awesome. Makes the experience of driving the manual 6-speed Dart so much better.

I’m saving up for the set of 3 with flex but I have an automatic Transmission. Do you think it’ll be worth it? I’m not sure if I’ll feel as big as a difference as a Manual would.
 

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I’m saving up for the set of 3 with flex but I have an automatic Transmission. Do you think it’ll be worth it? I’m not sure if I’ll feel as big as a difference as a Manual would.
Yes it is highly worth it. When you remove the OEM mounts you will know why, you can bend them with just your hands. Now imagine those weak OEM mounts trying to hold an engine/transmission in place.
 

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I just did my rear mount today in my driveway.
Car has 89,000 miles on it and is a GT.
Most of the rubber was gone on the stock mount.
Install was a little cramped, i'm 53 years old and 6ft tall.
I highly recommend putting anti seize on all the threads, including the exhaust nuts and the screws that hold the bottom engine bay cover on.
First impression with the Flex mount installed is, no more shaking at idle and high speed braking pulsation is gone.
 

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I've been working all weekend on getting the rear drivetrain mount (technically "isolator") prototyped. The design of the mount is fairly conventional, but in order to build it up properly, I had to make a split-open one-piece mold for it. That's a first for us, but I think the part that results is superior to a one-piece mold.

The reason for changing this mount, like any other, is that the OEM mount is a compromise between performance and NVH (noise/vibration/harshness). Basically, if you make a car that performs really well (no wheel hop, no missed shifts, firm shift feel), then you'll get all the car mag whiners (er, I mean critics) crying about how you can feel or hear the engine or the road. That's why cars come with all-season tires, wimpy anti-sway bars, soft springs, etc. Drivetrain mounts are another one of those compromise items. This particular mount does not hold the weight of the drivetrain at rest; it is meant to keep the engine from bobbling, or attempting to rotate on its axis, during changes in load.

Here's an OEM rear mount for the Dart, next to ours. I made the first one in lime to show off the shape, and to match (as closely as possible) our own Citrus Peel Rallye.

View attachment 3960

The center thru-bolt hole is held to the body of the mount by two rubber "legs". This design allows for quite a bit of movement when the engine bobbles, like when you shift gears, or when trying to launch aggressively. Ours, on the other hand, allows for very little movement, but without the harshness of a solid metal mount or a hard plastic insert.

They're available on our website now!
I've been working all weekend on getting the rear drivetrain mount (technically "isolator") prototyped. The design of the mount is fairly conventional, but in order to build it up properly, I had to make a split-open one-piece mold for it. That's a first for us, but I think the part that results is superior to a one-piece mold.

The reason for changing this mount, like any other, is that the OEM mount is a compromise between performance and NVH (noise/vibration/harshness). Basically, if you make a car that performs really well (no wheel hop, no missed shifts, firm shift feel), then you'll get all the car mag whiners (er, I mean critics) crying about how you can feel or hear the engine or the road. That's why cars come with all-season tires, wimpy anti-sway bars, soft springs, etc. Drivetrain mounts are another one of those compromise items. This particular mount does not hold the weight of the drivetrain at rest; it is meant to keep the engine from bobbling, or attempting to rotate on its axis, during changes in load.

Here's an OEM rear mount for the Dart, next to ours. I made the first one in lime to show off the shape, and to match (as closely as possible) our own Citrus Peel Rallye.

View attachment 3960

The center thru-bolt hole is held to the body of the mount by two rubber "legs". This design allows for quite a bit of movement when the engine bobbles, like when you shift gears, or when trying to launch aggressively. Ours, on the other hand, allows for very little movement, but without the harshness of a solid metal mount or a hard plastic insert.

They're available on our website now!
Hi what’s your website link I need a rear mount for a 2013 Dodge Dart ralleye 2.0 Thanks!!
 

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Just had the rear motor mount installed yesterday from Deyeme. I’ll tell you what, it feels like a completely different car. Shifts are all smoother. Starting from a stop is light years better. Just overall, the motor doesn’t feel like it’s sloshing around. Absolutely would recommend to anyone that has a manual Dart.
 
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