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Do you have work instructions for the Driverside mount. I have replaced the DriveTrain mount with yours already and my car has been vibrating but I still need to replace the Driver side engine mount. I'm planning on doing it this month. Thanks!
 

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The rear mount- the one we have available now- does not hold the weight of the drivetrain at rest, so it can be changed without supporting the engine. It's not very complicated. I have a bunch of installation pictures done, and will try to have the instructional write-up done this afternoon.

When doing the side mounts, you would want to support either the engine or transmission (the side you're working on), and remove one of the mounting bolts of the rear mount, to allow enough movement to align the new mount for installation.


Remove undercarriage splash shield


remove downpipe nuts


remove p-clamp holding exhaust pipe


remove rear engine mount-to-bracket bolt and nut.



remove three mount bracket bolts and slide bracket down and out.


remove mount thru-bolt, and leave nut with tab in place.


Done! Stick the new mount in place of the old one, and reverse the steps to put it all back together.
why do you have to remove downpipe nuts and exhaust clamp?
 

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I am curious as to which torque specs are the correct:

Found in the Thread:
Bracket Bolts 44 ft lbs
mounting bolt 96 ft lbs

Found in the Dart bible:
Bracket Bolts 15 ft lbs
mounting bolt 81 ft lbs

Tried to upload a picture but it wouldnt let me. Can someone confirm the correct numbers for the rear mount?
 

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Copied and pasted from the FSM:

1.4 L Engine

Left Engine Mount to Strut Tower Bolt 37 Ft. Lbs.

Left Engine Mount to Frame Rail Bolts 64 Ft. Lbs.

Left Engine Mount to Transaxle Bracket Bolts 77 Ft. Lbs.


Rear Engine Mount to Crossmember Bolt 77 Ft. Lbs.

Rear Engine Mount to Transaxle Bracket Bolt and Nut 59 Ft. Lbs.

Right Engine Mount to Frame Rail - M10 Bolts 46 Ft. Lbs.

Right Engine Mount to Strut Tower Bolt 37 Ft. Lbs.

Right Engine Mount to Engine Bracket - M10 Bolts 46* Ft. Lbs.

Right Engine Mount Bracket to Cylinder Head - M8 Bolts 18 Ft. Lbs.

* See procedure for multiple fastener tightening sequence.



2.0 L Engine

Left Engine Mount to Frame Rail Bolts 64 Ft. Lbs.

Left Engine Mount to Strut Tower Bolt 37 Ft. Lbs.

Left Engine Mount to Transaxle Bracket Bolts 77 Ft. Lbs.


Rear Engine Mount to Crossmember Bolt 77 Ft. Lbs.

Rear Engine Mount to Transaxle Bracket Bolt and Nut 59 Ft. Lbs.

Right Engine Mount to Frame Rail Bolts 46 Ft. Lbs.

Right Engine Mount to Strut Tower Bolt 37 Ft. Lbs.

Right Engine Mount to Engine Bracket Bolts 46 Ft. Lbs.



2.4 L Engine

Left Engine Mount to Frame Rail Bolts 64 Ft. Lbs.

Left Engine Mount to Strut Tower Bolt 37 Ft. Lbs.

Left Engine Mount to Transaxle Bracket Bolts 77 Ft. Lbs.


Rear Engine Mount to Crossmember Bolt 77 Ft. Lbs.

Rear Engine Mount to Transaxle Bracket Bolt and Nut 59 Ft. Lbs.

Right Engine Mount to Frame Rail Bolts 46 Ft. Lbs.

Right Engine Mount to Strut Tower Bolt 37 Ft. Lbs.

Right Engine Mount to Engine Bracket Bolts 46 Ft. Lbs.
 

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@DeyemeRacing

My question about the flex rear mount is as follows... as there was talk about the engine being "pre-loaded" or something like that where is the engine supposed to sit in relation to the mount? What I found was that (on ramps) that the engine rocked towards the rear of the car (towards the mount itself) and I could push it forward before I tightened the bolt that connects the mount and bracket. What I did was let it come to rest leaning back towards the mount and tightened the bolt. Did I do this correctly? Also is it possible for the engine to move that bolt back and forth even when the bolt has been cranked down on?

Sent using a rotary phone
I don't have an answer to your questions but I am confused as to how you can have a pre loaded motor when using a frame lift but not when installing by using ramps. The motor is mounted directly to the frame. I would think that all you want is the motor to be sitting in its natural position, being as level as possible in the compartment. Wouldn't you then pre load the engine by having it sit further back in the compartment by installing on ramps and have a more neutral sitting engine when using a lift, since the lift raises your car levelly? Having the weight of the car on the wheels should also make the engine shift forward since the front of the darts are much heavier than the back. Wouldn't it be more beneficial to have the motor sitting more forward than back in the rear mounting bracket then?
 

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I don't have an answer to your questions but I am confused as to how you can have a pre loaded motor when using a frame lift but not when installing by using ramps. The motor is mounted directly to the frame. I would think that all you want is the motor to be sitting in its natural position, being as level as possible in the compartment. Wouldn't you then pre load the engine by having it sit further back in the compartment by installing on ramps and have a more neutral sitting engine when using a lift, since the lift raises your car levelly? Having the weight of the car on the wheels should also make the engine shift forward since the front of the darts are much heavier than the back. Wouldn't it be more beneficial to have the motor sitting more forward than back in the rear mounting bracket then?
I was have to say that you are right... Because I installed when on ramps the engine moved back toward the firewall. That is NOT the natural position of the engine when sitting level in the ground. So like I said I pushed the motor back forward (towards the front of the car) before I tightened the Bolt. In my opinion, that was the best way to get the engine as close to the natural position as possible without using a lift or pit.

Sent using a rotary phone
 

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09 - Engine, 1.4L I4 16V Turbo / Engine Mounting / Standard Procedure

ENGINE MOUNT NEUTRALIZATION

NOTE: Typical left engine mount shown.

1.Remove or relocate components as required to access the engine mount bolts (Refer to 09 - Engine/Engine Mounting/INSULATOR, Engine Mount/Removal) .

2.Loosen the left engine mount to transmission bracket bolts (2).

dart14enginemount1.jpg

3.Loosen the left engine mount to frame rail bolts (3).

4.Loosen the bolt (2) for the left engine mount (3) to strut tower (1) attachment, if equipped.

NOTE: Typical right engine mount shown.

dart14enginemount2.jpg

5.Remove or relocate components as required to access the engine mount bolts (Refer to 09 - Engine/Engine Mounting/INSULATOR, Engine Mount/Removal) .

6.Loosen the right engine mount to engine bracket bolts (1).

dart14enginemount3.jpg

7.Loosen the right engine mount to frame rail bolts (2).

8.Loosen the bolt (2) for the right engine mount (1) to strut tower (3) attachment, if equipped.

NOTE: Typical rear engine mount shown.

dart14enginemount4.jpg
9.Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting/Standard Procedure) .

10.Remove the belly pan (if equipped) (Refer to 13 - Frame and Bumpers/Under Body Protection/BELLY PAN/Removal) .

11. Loosen the rear engine mount to transmission bracket bolt (4) and nut (2).

dart14enginemount5.jpg
12.Loosen the rear mount to crossmember bolt (1).

13.Center the powertrain in the engine mounts:
•Allow the powertrain to relax.
•Manually position the powertrain as close as possible to a position where the right and left engine mounts appear centered and are not skewed front-to-rear or side-to-side.
•Again, allow the powertrain to relax.

NOTE: Typical rear engine mount shown.

14.Tighten the rear engine mount to crossmember bolt (1) to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

dart14enginemount5.jpg

15.Tighten the rear engine mount to transmission bracket bolt (4) and nut (2) to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

16.Install the belly pan (if equipped) (Refer to 13 - Frame and Bumpers/Under Body Protection/BELLY PAN/Installation) .

17.Lower the vehicle.

18.Tighten the right engine mount to strut tower bolt (2) to the proper (Torque Specifications) , if equipped.

NOTE: Typical right engine mount shown.

dart14enginemount4.jpg

19.Tighten the right engine mount to frame rail bolts (2) to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

dart14enginemount3.jpg

20.Tighten the right engine mount to engine bracket bolts (1) to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

21.Tighten the left engine mount to strut tower bolt (2) to the proper (Torque Specifications) , if equipped.

NOTE: Typical left engine mount shown.

dart14enginemount2.jpg

22.Tighten the left engine mount to frame rail bolts (3) to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

dart14enginemount1.jpg

23.Tighten the left engine mount to transmission bracket bolts (2) to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

24.Install the components removed to access the engine mount bolts (Refer to 09 - Engine/Engine Mounting/INSULATOR, Engine Mount/Installation) .
 

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why do you have to remove downpipe nuts and exhaust clamp?
I installed my rear mount last night and did not remove the down pipe nuts or loosen the flex pipe bracket. We figured out that if you loosen all three bracket bolts enough, you can wedge the bracket to the point where you can remove the bolts then the bracket. We found this easier than removing the down pipe nuts and flex pipe bracket because we were concerned if we loosened this all, we may introduce a leak into the exhaust system. Take this for what you want but it is very possible to switch out the rear mounting bracket without loosening the exhaust. Just as a fyi, use a 15 mm wrench(12 point style) on the star bolts if you want to do it this way.
@DeyemeRacing, this bracket is leaps and bounds an improvement over the stock bracket. It stiffened up the shifting and really took away the rocking, clicking, and just plain sloppiness the original bracket caused. At idle the car does not vibrate more than normal. I can feel the vibration more when I back up but that is usually only a short distance. Overall, I am very pleased with the swap and I can't wait to get my tax return and swap out the two side mounts next!
 

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Installed mine about 2 months ago, the flex one. Its night and day difference. Now I can throw it into gear and not worry about it bouncing back out. Like you mentioned, also go rid of a lot of the rocking and clicking (particularly when you put it into first at around 4mph where it idles in 1st). I still have a little bit of movement and bouncing, but its now at least drivable. Would love to upgrade the other 2 mounts as well to see if I can smoothen it out a little bit more.

As for vibrations, only notice it in reverse. I back into my drive way (about 150ft of reverse), and only feel it severely when I back over the curb and into my driveway. That said though, the vibrations are welcome since I no-longer am jerked as the engine adjusts to power over the curb. It used to be quite violent, but not the engine doesn't almost stall out!
 

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Installed mine about 2 months ago, the flex one. Its night and day difference. Now I can throw it into gear and not worry about it bouncing back out. Like you mentioned, also go rid of a lot of the rocking and clicking (particularly when you put it into first at around 4mph where it idles in 1st). I still have a little bit of movement and bouncing, but its now at least drivable. Would love to upgrade the other 2 mounts as well to see if I can smoothen it out a little bit more.

As for vibrations, only notice it in reverse. I back into my drive way (about 150ft of reverse), and only feel it severely when I back over the curb and into my driveway. That said though, the vibrations are welcome since I no-longer am jerked as the engine adjusts to power over the curb. It used to be quite violent, but not the engine doesn't almost stall out!
Completely agree. I installed mine (flex) a few months ago and love it. Some absolutely minimal vibration introduction while idling and I also notice some vibration when cruising at higher highway speeds on occasion. Other than that, great mod at a great price point. Also happy I did it because I found a cross-threaded nut that was not actually tightened down to where the flex pipe meets my Cat flange. Was good that I could fix that at the same time.
 

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where can I get the upgraded Mounts at? I have a 2016 Dodge Dart SXT 2.0 Automatic.
I have the Deyeme Rear Mount (flex). It is awesome. Makes the experience of driving the manual 6-speed Dart so much better.
 

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I have the Deyeme Rear Mount (flex). It is awesome. Makes the experience of driving the manual 6-speed Dart so much better.
For my b-day I got the money to purchase the rear mount (going with the stiff one since I'm in a sub-tropical climate), and the CDV delete. I can't wait to get this stuff in and on my car!

I have the 'clunk' that happens when shifting from the trans mount being trashed as well as bouncing from the CDV while hard shifting (which I hate). Going to replace the shift control rod bushing as well since I just might as well.

Question to Deyeme, How do you say Deyeme.. Is it like 'daimee', or 'dayum', or something else?
 

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Question to Deyeme, How do you say Deyeme.. Is it like 'daimee', or 'dayum', or something else?


I believe it's D M. If you ever receive a package from them, it says DM Racing.
 

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For my b-day I got the money to purchase the rear mount (going with the stiff one since I'm in a sub-tropical climate), and the CDV delete. I can't wait to get this stuff in and on my car!

I have the 'clunk' that happens when shifting from the trans mount being trashed as well as bouncing from the CDV while hard shifting (which I hate). Going to replace the shift control rod bushing as well since I just might as well.

Question to Deyeme, How do you say Deyeme.. Is it like 'daimee', or 'dayum', or something else?
It is pronounced “Day-Me”
 
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