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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
@DeyemeRacing / Travis or anyone else who has installed the Shift Control Arm:

Would you suggest using LocTite Thread Locker (blue) on the threaded ball stud o ensure it does not work it's way out over time? or, will this make it too difficult to change to another position if desired?
That shouldn't be necessary. The ball and socket joint of the arm & rod rotate well with each other, so they should never have "traction" against each other to loosen the ball stud. Maybe a very tiny dab of the lowest strength thread locker once you've found the "happy place" you plan on keeping it, but that's it. We didn't use any on ours, and it's been over 10,000 miles now.
 

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That shouldn't be necessary. The ball and socket joint of the arm & rod rotate well with each other, so they should never have "traction" against each other to loosen the ball stud. Maybe a very tiny dab of the lowest strength thread locker once you've found the "happy place" you plan on keeping it, but that's it. We didn't use any on ours, and it's been over 10,000 miles now.
Sounds good. Since my car is an not garaged, waiting for a few days where it is consistently above freezing to do this. Will update with my experience after install. Thank you.
 

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Finally trying to tackle this today for my 2014 GT (2.4L). It really looks like if I out the car in neutral, I can do this with having to remove/disconnect anything other than the Rod and Arm. Anyone else find the same thing, or am I fooling myself?

Next question, is the OEM rod simply a press fit? Do all I nee to do in pry/pop this off? I am following the instructions, but want to be crystal clear.
 

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Finally trying to tackle this today for my 2014 GT (2.4L). It really looks like if I out the car in neutral, I can do this with having to remove/disconnect anything other than the Rod and Arm. Anyone else find the same thing, or am I fooling myself?

Next question, is the OEM rod simply a press fit? Do all I nee to do in pry/pop this off? I am following the instructions, but want to be crystal clear.
I replaced the stock rubber bushing with the firmer one from Deyeme. It is just press fit, be prepared to really pry it, i remember cutting a few fingers trying to get it off.
 

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Well...the universe is not working with me today.* Was lined up as a slow day, but stuck on calls and keep getting torn away from this swap.**


So my shift control rod is small on each end (no rubber bushing).* I had tried taking an 11mm open-end wrench, with the head turned horizontally and placed between where the rod connects to the ball on the control arm, and I pried up.* I even put a long screw driver through the opposite box end of the wrench for more leverage and pried up.* I think I am going to bend/break the wrench (or other part connected to the control arm) before the rod pry/pops free.* Like I said, have not had a lot of time to mess around with it, but made zero progress and makes me worry about how to free the connection closer to the cabin.

Trying not to break anything. Already cracked my engine cover today by taking it off the same way I have 100 times before with no issue. Maybe the universe is telling me to walk away today.


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@Mass_Paul, the green rubber in the stock arm is the bushing i was referring. I haven’t had to fully remove the arm, just that piece. It’s a ball bearing, and takes an enormous amount of force to pry off. Took me awhile too trying to find a good safe fulcrum and prying as much as necessary.
 

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@Mass_Paul, the green rubber in the stock arm is the bushing i was referring. I haven’t had to fully remove the arm, just that piece. It’s a ball bearing, and takes an enormous amount of force to pry off. Took me awhile too trying to find a good safe fulcrum and prying as much as necessary.
Thanks. I am going to give it a try again when it is not raining.

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Thanks. I am going to give it a try again when it is not raining.

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Did you ever get it installed?

Also... ***DRUM ROLL***

I just took the plunge and ordered the Rear Trans Mount, CDV Delete kit, the DMR Control Rod, AND the Short Shifter Arm. I'm so excited!!! Like.. This is big for me. I have worked on cars for years and years, but NOTHING I have ever done was anything to improve anything on a car except for the fact that it was broke.. Well I know that pretty much all of these parts are to fix what was broke from the factory on the Dart. lol. But still this is the first performance mods I have ever installed and I am soo soo psyched!

For the CDV, does anyone have a preference on a good brake fluid to use? Preferably something that wont fry easy in the brake system to give the clutch system more longetivity, but also isn't $75 a bottle? (being dramatic but dodge is so damn high on anything).
 

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It used to be called Castrol GTLMA. The LMA stands for low moisture absorption. Now it's called Castrol DOT4. I have used this for the last 20 years. Every pad change, I use a MityVac to suck out (as much as possible) the old fluid in the master cylinder and replace it with this.

brakefluid.jpg
 
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Did you ever get it installed?

Also... ***DRUM ROLL***

I just took the plunge and ordered the Rear Trans Mount, CDV Delete kit, the DMR Control Rod, AND the Short Shifter Arm. I'm so excited!!! Like.. This is big for me. I have worked on cars for years and years, but NOTHING I have ever done was anything to improve anything on a car except for the fact that it was broke.. Well I know that pretty much all of these parts are to fix what was broke from the factory on the Dart. lol. But still this is the first performance mods I have ever installed and I am soo soo psyched!

For the CDV, does anyone have a preference on a good brake fluid to use? Preferably something that wont fry easy in the brake system to give the clutch system more longetivity, but also isn't $75 a bottle? (being dramatic but dodge is so damn high on anything).
Nope. It was been between 5 and 30 degrees F the past few weeks. Everything is so cold I would imagine everything is constricted making it that much harder to remove. This may be on hold until March, unless we get a few freak warm days.

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Did you ever get it installed?

Also... ***DRUM ROLL***

I just took the plunge and ordered the Rear Trans Mount, CDV Delete kit, the DMR Control Rod, AND the Short Shifter Arm. I'm so excited!!! Like.. This is big for me. I have worked on cars for years and years, but NOTHING I have ever done was anything to improve anything on a car except for the fact that it was broke.. Well I know that pretty much all of these parts are to fix what was broke from the factory on the Dart. lol. But still this is the first performance mods I have ever installed and I am soo soo psyched!

For the CDV, does anyone have a preference on a good brake fluid to use? Preferably something that wont fry easy in the brake system to give the clutch system more longetivity, but also isn't $75 a bottle? (being dramatic but dodge is so damn high on anything).
Nice! You will love it. It will be like driving a different car. Just use any DOT4 fluid and you'll be fine.
 
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I use a MityVac to suck out (as much as possible) the old fluid in the master cylinder and replace it with this.
Which MityVac do you have? I can't splurge on it but it would be super nice to be able to do it myself because it's a little hard to rely on anyone else to be there to help me (and help me the correct way)..

I found this one on Amazon but wasn't sure if it was 'good enough' for the job or not. I could definitely find it handy for the future.
https://www.amazon.com/MV8000-Autom...mityvac&qid=1547840504&sr=8-3#customerReviews
 

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That MityVac will work just fine. As long as it has the plastic container to hold the fluid you remove. You still need to be careful.
A turkey baster will also work but you might end up spilling brake fluid on paint possibly causing damage.
 

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That MityVac will work just fine. As long as it has the plastic container to hold the fluid you remove. You still need to be careful.
A turkey baster will also work but you might end up spilling brake fluid on paint possibly causing damage.
I'm not really worried about the turkey baster method though I believe that's a good one as well. I just didn't want to buy a worthless product. They have a good handfull of kits on Amazon for as low as $19 and even ones with bad reviews as high as $120 but it seems you have about a 1/3rd chance of these kits working right out of the box by the way the reviews are.. Either it works great, works about two times and then breaks, or doesn't work at all out of the box. I have at least 3 rolls of plumbers tape so rolling what needs to be in teflon tape is not even an issue. It's the stuff like orings that disentigrate when the fluid hits it (hmm.. sounds familiar :p ) or things internally with the pumps are just broken new in box.
 

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Maybe look for a used older version on eBay? I have one that's at least 40 years old.
 
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Maybe look for a used older version on eBay? I have one that's at least 40 years old.
You know that might just be the ticket because I came across a lot of reviews on Amazon staying they replaced their 20+ year old one with a similar new model and it just basically fell apart as soon as they tried to use the new one. I guess the old adage ' they don't make em like they used to' definitely applies here unless your willing to drop $150+ on it..
 

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Finally got the shift control arm and rod completely installed today. Word to the wise, if you car is stored outside, do not even attempt if weather is hovering around freezing. Control rod will not want to give up.

If I am being honest, this was one of the most frustrating mods I made to my Dart GT. It has nothing to do with the Deyeme product(s) (which I think are great), but more towards the confined spaced to work in. I have a GT and the only item I removed, while performing this installation, was the neutral gate. Did not remove any other items (maybe that is why I had more trouble).

I recommend using PB Blaster and an 11mm open end wrench to work the old rod off. Mine did not want to let go and it was very frustrating. After a few days working on it and muscling it, they just sort of popped off. It's as if someone was looking down at me and said, "eh, I've had enough torturing him with this, I am just going to let these fall off". I believe releasing the connection on the rod furthest from the front of the vehicle (not on the control arm) is tough to get just right. You have to get the wrench in at just the right angle and it almost popped off a little bit at a time. I actually swung the arm the opposite way so I did not have the shaft pointing away from we. This is when I was finally able to make some real progress.


Control Rod 01.jpg


Control Rod 02.jpg


Control Rod Wrench 01.jpg


Control Rod Wrench 02.jpg




The control arm is press fit on, so just take care getting it out. You will need a decent length extension, or a couple of regular extensions, to get to the nut on the stud. It is on there pretty good. I once again used PB Blaster and let it soak for a bit. I used a thin scrapper I have with a screwdriver handle to wedge under it and break the press fit. Once that was done, I just did some light, careful tapping with a tack hammer. No problem. I cleaned everything up, put a deep socket on my extension that would go around the stud, and then tapped on the new control with a rubber mallet (in the same position to old arm was attached at). Once it was started, I used some blue threadlocker and tightened it up, making sure everything was nice and flush.



The new control rod was a quick install. I was initially afraid of dropping the clip needed to secure each end, but took the time to find a good position to work in and it only took me about 5 minutes total. I was very cognizant of the fact that I was holding a small clip while doing this. Did not and try to take a shortcut or do something that I was unsure if I could fit my hand into a position, or that the clip was not 100% secure in my grasp.

Anyway, completely installed and have in the shortest throw position. It is like having a new gear box. The tension in neutral is still good going left or right. It does seem that second gear takes a bit more force to get into than before. not sure if that is just me, or the loss of a few inches of leverage on the arm makes it a bit tougher in the second gear position. It is nothing I'm concerned or unhappy with, just my observation.

I am very happy with this and once again would recommend to anyone with a manual. Now I just got to get used to letting of the clutch a bit sooner with these quicker gear shifts. Thank you for everyone who assisted me with (especially @Dartanyion who answered a few specific questions for me) and Deyeme for supporting the Dart platform with quality products.

IMG_20190313_115330.jpg


IMG_20190313_115342.jpg
 

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Dat red rod tho. Looks clean man! I need to take a picture of mine when I get a chance. I have also noticed a little more tension getting into 2nd which is weird. 1st and 2nd are like that. Everything after is pretty smooth. Not sure if it's a linkage issue within the cab or just the trans, but just like you it's not a big.
 

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Man, I finally got this installed today.

Like others have said, it's kind of a pain to do just because of the tight space. Honestly, the hardest part of the entire mod was getting the old pieces off.... Between prying away at the old bushing (which is in a hard to reach spot) and prying up the old shift control arm (mine was completely stuck to the shaft, took me and my old man 45 minutes with a hammer and a tuning fork to get the thing off), it's just rough to get the old pieces off. Honestly, didn't need to take any other parts off the car. Left everything as-is and just worked around everything. Probably didn't help, but it also wasn't keeping the bushing and control arm stuck in place either. Fiat did a great job engineering these pieces.

But reassembly was easier. Managed to not lose either of the tiny wire clips, and adjusting the position of the stud was a breeze. Everything went together smoothly. And now the car shifts beautifully! I went with the 32% reduction, and it's awesome. The throw is nice and snappy, the gear engagement feels more firm, and I can shift even more quickly than I already was! Think it's time for the CDV delete....

Thanks Travis and the whole Deyeme team for this. It's a simple solution that doesn't cost a fortune.
 
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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
...I have also noticed a little more tension getting into 2nd which is weird. 1st and 2nd are like that. Everything after is pretty smooth. Not sure if it's a linkage issue within the cab or just the trans, but just like you it's not a big.
That's normal. If you had an even longer than stock shift control arm, you'd have MORE leverage against the lever action, and it would feel easier / smoother. The shorter the arm is, the less leverage you have, so the more effort it takes and the more "notchy" it feels.
 
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