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I have an M13 bro.
Ok thanks for the quick response!

I have a 15 and there are so many different things that I really want to try this mod but I don't know if I'm going to have the same outcome with this...

I'll have to look into it a bit more.

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Can you upload pictures of the new design for buyers? I believe all the pictures on here and on your site are still the 2 position design :)

ALSO Just placed my order!
You will need to tell me how this install goes... I know you have the 15 as well so it should be the same setup... Send me pics if you can so I can compare please!

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You will need to tell me how this install goes... I know you have the 15 as well so it should be the same setup... Send me pics if you can so I can compare please!

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2.4 install should be easy. You only have to move the battery to access it. No charge pipes like I have.
 

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2.4 install should be easy. You only have to move the battery to access it. No charge pipes like I have.
I have a 2015 1.4t. The differences for the transmission are by year. Since he has a 2015 manual as well, he said earlier that he doesn't have that bushing designed for the 2013. I would assume that mine has that difference as well.

I'm on crutches currently so I can't really do work on my car or even drive it... So doing this now would be a bad idea for me. I'll have to go look when I have a chance soon.

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I have a 2015 1.4t. The differences for the transmission are by year. Since he has a 2015 manual as well, he said earlier that he doesn't have that bushing designed for the 2013. I would assume that mine has that difference as well.

I'm on crutches currently so I can't really do work on my car or even drive it... So doing this now would be a bad idea for me. I'll have to go look when I have a chance soon.

Sent using a rotary phone
I guess I could've looked at your sig to see you are 1.4.
If your tension rod bushings are the same size you would only need the control arm.
If yours has the big bushing towards the front of the car I would recommend getting the rod as well.
You won't have to remove the battery, but you will have to partially remove the charge pipe. Unless you have access to a lift so you don't have to bend down I would hold off until you don't have crutches.
Crutches never stopped me from building race cars ;) jk.
 

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You will need to tell me how this install goes... I know you have the 15 as well so it should be the same setup... Send me pics if you can so I can compare please!

Sent using a rotary phone
Yeah I hope that new connector that they use is not a royal pain to remove. As the older ones seem really easy and they are already destroyed and worn out lol

2.4 install should be easy. You only have to move the battery to access it. No charge pipes like I have.
I am going to try and get around doing it without having to remove it if I can. lol But if it comes to it, I will yank it out.
 

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Placing my order today. I'll order the rod some day once the bushing finally gives out.
 

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I have a 2015 1.4t. The differences for the transmission are by year. Since he has a 2015 manual as well, he said earlier that he doesn't have that bushing designed for the 2013. I would assume that mine has that difference as well.

I'm on crutches currently so I can't really do work on my car or even drive it... So doing this now would be a bad idea for me. I'll have to go look when I have a chance soon.

Sent using a rotary phone
Man hope your leg/foot/knee/ankle get's better soon man. I was on crutches once and it was the biggest PITA..

So like.. For the 2014 M/T (such as me) do you know if it has the newer style bushing or older style? Just curious and I rarely have a chance to actually look under the hood of the car but I kinda got a little overzealous trying to get decent 0-60 times and yanked the shifter into 2nd a little harder than I should have about a month ago and now it still functions fine but rowing through gears doesn't feel as smooth on shifts at all.. So I'm thinking I'm probably going to get the rod and the shift control arm sometime in the near future.
 

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Man hope your leg/foot/knee/ankle get's better soon man. I was on crutches once and it was the biggest PITA..

So like.. For the 2014 M/T (such as me) do you know if it has the newer style bushing or older style? Just curious and I rarely have a chance to actually look under the hood of the car but I kinda got a little overzealous trying to get decent 0-60 times and yanked the shifter into 2nd a little harder than I should have about a month ago and now it still functions fine but rowing through gears doesn't feel as smooth on shifts at all.. So I'm thinking I'm probably going to get the rod and the shift control arm sometime in the near future.
I appreciate it man... But I honestly don't know. I haven't had much experience with the 14s. BUT I do know someone who does! @Bullfrog care to help?

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
The shift control rod (aka tension strut) that's small on both ends (no rubber bushing to wear out) seems to have been more batch related than model year. I've sold replacements to owners of '16 Darts with bad units, yet had '15 Dart owners tell me theirs was small on both ends - go figure! I can only guess there's a car in a different market with that shift control rod, and they "borrowed" (re-allocated) some manual transmissions from that other market. There is NO different part number for the Dart's shift control rod for big/small, small/small. In fact, the Renegade and 500X have the same part on their manual trans... with a different p/n... but it has the bushing on BOTH ends!

Now, on to the pic - it's really about the same, except for the additional hole. I made some very minor shape change (larger radius where the round portion transitions to the straight portion) but that's about it. If you order one before next week, it will likely include the instructions with updated wording but the old pic with only two holes. I'll be getting some additional assistance this weekend from my son (precision machinist Isaiah) so we should have pictures on the website and in our instructions updated Sunday or Monday.

If you're doing the install on a 2.0 / 2.4, PLEASE take notes with the instructions we give you and let us know what needs to be changed. Pics would be awesome, too. We can add them to the instructions, and we'll put your name credit in the pic if you like, so you'll be immortalized ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Placing my order today. I'll order the rod some day once the bushing finally gives out.
If you order the Shift Control Arm WITH the Shift Control Rod, or vice-versa (they're both listed as options for one another), you get $10 off the total.

If you have one of the small/small shift control rods, you should be able to see it by looking straight down at it between the battery and engine. If you're not sure, snap a pic and post it here, and me or someone else will be able to confirm for you.
 

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I am going to try and get around doing it without having to remove it if I can. lol But if it comes to it, I will yank it out.
I've never looked close enough at the 2.4 to notice, but if your battery is in the same spot as the 1.4 you might not have to pull it.
 

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Ok here we go. For reference I have a 2016 2.4L. Feel free to use whatever pictures you want to @DeyemeRacing

I installed my shift arm today and it was pretty easy. With the 2.4L, all I did to access the arm was remove the 3 bolts that hold the ecu bracket and pry out 3 wire harness mounting straps and simply move the ecu out of the way and basically folding it over and on top of the battery. I also removed the engine cover but that may not even be necessary. The only thing that sucked was it was a pain in the ASS to get the oem arm off the trans. I ended up hammering two screwdrivers under it to wedge it off, it is almost a press-fit onto the shaft. Prying from multiple angles simply wasn't getting the job done. Also, as you will see in the pics below, the oem arm is slightly longer than the 'oem' position on the Deyeme Racing one so it will be a slightly shorter throw no matter what (probably not noticeable though). All in all, it's a good product and wasn't too hard to install with proper tools. I already have a Modern Performance short/relocator shifter in my car and now with this arm the shifts are super crisp and short into the gears. I will be rocking the short shifter with the adjustable arm in race mode (shortest possible) for now unless it gets annoying in the future.

(if you click on the full size for the last two pics the rotation of them will be correct)

IMG_2841.jpg

IMG_2842.jpg

IMG_2843.jpg

IMG_2844.jpg

IMG_2845.jpg
 

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Ok here we go. For reference I have a 2016 2.4L. Feel free to use whatever pictures you want to @DeyemeRacing

I installed my shift arm today and it was pretty easy. With the 2.4L, all I did to access the arm was remove the 3 bolts that hold the ecu bracket and pry out 3 wire harness mounting straps and simply move the ecu out of the way and basically folding it over and on top of the battery. I also removed the engine cover but that may not even be necessary. The only thing that sucked was it was a pain in the ASS to get the oem arm off the trans. I ended up hammering two screwdrivers under it to wedge it off, it is almost a press-fit onto the shaft. Prying from multiple angles simply wasn't getting the job done. Also, as you will see in the pics below, the oem arm is slightly longer than the 'oem' position on the Deyeme Racing one so it will be a slightly shorter throw no matter what (probably not noticeable though). All in all, it's a good product and wasn't too hard to install with proper tools. I already have a Modern Performance short/relocator shifter in my car and now with this arm the shifts are super crisp and short into the gears. I will be rocking the short shifter with the adjustable arm in race mode (shortest possible) for now unless it gets annoying in the future.

(if you click on the full size for the last two pics the rotation of them will be correct)
I agree with the bolded above. The install was not difficult on the 2.4. Pretty easily accessible, and I did remove the ECU as well. Was going to remove the battery tray, until we found out that you need to take the wheel and liner off to remove it, and we didn't feel like doing that lol

Removing the OEM bracket was pretty awful. We went to the parts store to get a metal trim piece and a battery terminal puller (the puller was to attempt to pull it off). It seemed like it was going to work great, but the puller was not able to clamp onto the base enough before it slipped off. So we abandoned that and just kept attacking the bracket. I think the best way of doing this was to keep working the bottom until you can get something jammed under the bracket. Then use a hammer and lightly tap it in so that it comes up. Essentially chisel at it. It's on the splines that hold the bracket in (the star) was probably the reason why it would not come off. It is a tight snug, so getting it off and putting it on takes some force. I don't have any pics on my computer, but might upload later. I only have some with the final install, which looks similar to Wes.

Overall, I have mine on the middle adjustment, and I am enjoying it. Definitely more crisp shifts, significant shorter throw than stock+MPx short throw. Have not even tried "race" position yet. lol But @Exitus04, since you have the same connector as me and Wes (as I believe you said) it should be easy. It popped right off and that was probably the easiest part. Pops off, just push out of the way while you battle with the bracket. Battery was not needed to be removed, but we did because we were gonna remove the tray, but ended up not doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
That's an interesting pic with the OE piece and ours together. I believe your OE shift control arm is actually longer than mine! Any clue on a build date? Mine's a mid-early '13. Hard to imagine they'd make the shift throw longer for any reason, but it might have been to accommodate the trans being used in another model (Renegade / 500X maybe?).
 

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That's an interesting pic with the OE piece and ours together. I believe your OE shift control arm is actually longer than mine! Any clue on a build date? Mine's a mid-early '13. Hard to imagine they'd make the shift throw longer for any reason, but it might have been to accommodate the trans being used in another model (Renegade / 500X maybe?).
Build date is 11/15.
 

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@DeyemeRacing / Travis or anyone else who has installed the Shift Control Arm:

Would you suggest using LocTite Thread Locker (blue) on the threaded ball stud o ensure it does not work it's way out over time? or, will this make it too difficult to change to another position if desired?
 
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