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Discussion Starter #1
Ever since replacing the mostly-missing shift control rod (tension strut) bushing on the trans in our '13 Dart Rallye, we've been eyeballing the shift control ARM (the thing the rod connects the shift lever to) as a way to shorten shifter throw. I first drilled and tapped a hole in our OE arm to see where the ideal mount point would be. By then, we had replaced our polyurethane bushing with a complete stainless steel shift control rod, (p/n PF1MTSLNKS). We went through some minor revisions and had a few samples machined of a new billet aluminum shift control arm. More tiny rework and revisions, and it was finally ready for production.

We now have an adjustable Shift Control Arm, with an OE-length and short-length throw. Construction is billet aluminum with steel ball stud. It's both LIGHTER and STRONGER than the piece it replaces, and works with the OE shift control rod and ours. Because the holes in our Shift Control Arm are individually threaded, there's no concern about slippage or twisting the part like you might get if it had one long slotted hole. Changing the throw is as easy as unscrewing the stud and moving it to the other hole, with no need for removing the arm from the trans or the rod from the arm. The arm can be purchased alone, or you can buy it with our SS Shift Control Rod, which will save you $10, making our version the most AFFORDABLE way to shorten the shift throw in your Dart! And while I'm pretty happy with the shifter height, this would probably make an awesome combo mod with the MPX short shifter, too!

oh yea... pics!

OEM Shift Control Rod, OE w/ DMR bushing, and DMR SS version w/ black accent hose


New Shift Control Arm, w/ OE and Short throw ball stud mounting positions


Shift Control Rod & Arm installed
 

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Ever since replacing the mostly-missing shift control rod (tension strut) bushing on the trans in our '13 Dart Rallye, we've been eyeballing the shift control ARM (the thing the rod connects the shift lever to) as a way to shorten shifter throw. I first drilled and tapped a hole in our OE arm to see where the ideal mount point would be. By then, we had replaced our polyurethane bushing with a complete stainless steel shift control rod, (p/n PF1MTSLNKS). We went through some minor revisions and had a few samples machined of a new billet aluminum shift control arm. More tiny rework and revisions, and it was finally ready for production.

We now have an adjustable Shift Control Arm, with an OE-length and short-length throw. Construction is billet aluminum with steel ball stud. It's both LIGHTER and STRONGER than the piece it replaces, and works with the OE shift control rod and ours. Because the holes in our Shift Control Arm are individually threaded, there's no concern about slippage or twisting the part like you might get if it had one long slotted hole. Changing the throw is as easy as unscrewing the stud and moving it to the other hole, with no need for removing the arm from the trans or the rod from the arm. The arm can be purchased alone, or you can buy it with our SS Shift Control Rod, which will save you $10, making our version the most AFFORDABLE way to shorten the shift throw in your Dart! And while I'm pretty happy with the shifter height, this would probably make an awesome combo mod with the MPX short shifter, too!

oh yea... pics!

OEM Shift Control Rod, OE w/ DMR bushing, and DMR SS version w/ black accent hose


New Shift Control Arm, w/ OE and Short throw ball stud mounting positions


Shift Control Rod & Arm installed
This looks pretty solid! One last big question you forgot to answer on everyone's mind... How much? and one question on my mind is Will it work with a pre-existing short throw shift arm? Like the ones made by Craven Speed or Modern Performance?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
This looks pretty solid! One last big question you forgot to answer on everyone's mind... How much? and one question on my mind is Will it work with a pre-existing short throw shift arm? Like the ones made by Craven Speed or Modern Performance?
Just like the Shift Control Rod, sold by itself, it's $49. If you buy both the Rod and Arm, you get $10 off - so instead of $98, it's $88. Shipping is discounted when they're purchased together, too.

The MPX short shifter is in the console, not on the trans, so the two parts should work fine together. Same with the CravenSpeed unit, from what I've seen. I haven't tested either one with ours to know the exact change in throw, but if it's too extreme as a combo, you can move the ball stud from the center to outer position to see if you like it better (without going through all the remove/replace steps, since the stud is threaded and not pressed on).
 

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@DeyemeRacing if am not mistaken, is the shift rod not compatible with the newer darts? I have a 15 and I remember buying the bushing and seeing that my shift rod was entirely different than what was on the previous models, and what's pictured. I am assuming if I took it off, I would be able to use the new one though, but was not sure. This is pretty awesome though. If this was compatible with my car I will probably look into buying it. I will have to take a look, but I am pretty sure the small side that connects to the shift control arm would be the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@DeyemeRacing if am not mistaken, is the shift rod not compatible with the newer darts? I have a 15 and I remember buying the bushing and seeing that my shift rod was entirely different than what was on the previous models, and what's pictured. I am assuming if I took it off, I would be able to use the new one though, but was not sure. This is pretty awesome though. If this was compatible with my car I will probably look into buying it. I will have to take a look, but I am pretty sure the small side that connects to the shift control arm would be the same.
It's not that it isn't compatible, but that if you have one of the rare small-on-both-ends versions of the OE rod, our SS Shift Control Rod doesn't have the same advantage of eliminating the bushing (since yours doesn't have the bushing in the first place). The rest of what's around it is the same, though, with ball studs on the shift control arm and weighted lever. So, you could still get our shift control rod if you wanted extra attention to detail for show (ours has silicone sleeve available in different colors) but we also sell the rod and arm as separate pieces for those like you, who don't need the rod, or others that have already bought ours or a new OE replacement.

So, you can buy one, the other, or both, the way we have them listed on our website.
 

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It's not that it isn't compatible, but that if you have one of the rare small-on-both-ends versions of the OE rod, our SS Shift Control Rod doesn't have the same advantage of eliminating the bushing (since yours doesn't have the bushing in the first place). The rest of what's around it is the same, though, with ball studs on the shift control arm and weighted lever. So, you could still get our shift control rod if you wanted extra attention to detail for show (ours has silicone sleeve available in different colors) but we also sell the rod and arm as separate pieces for those like you, who don't need the rod, or others that have already bought ours or a new OE replacement.

So, you can buy one, the other, or both, the way we have them listed on our website.
Will you be making the trip to Midwest this year? If so I will definitely pick one up there!
 

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My bushing was just starting to tear so I just installed both the arm and rod this past weekend. Easy to follow instructions. I already had the Craven short throw and decided to use the short throw point on the new shift arm as well. With the reduced leverage, you need to push/pull a little harder to get into gear but there's a noticeable difference in the throw and solidness of the shift.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Will you be making the trip to Midwest this year? If so I will definitely pick one up there!
Unfortunately, no. Events fall into our advertising budget, which we've already exceeded for the year with races and shows. Hopefully it'll be a little closer next year, and we'll be able to make it back again.
 

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@DeyemeRacing or anyone who has installed this. How do I remove the cold side tubing? I can't see how to get the clamps off to move the tubing without destroying it? Could anyone post a picture of the stock clamps to see if mine are the same?

Edit: I have since completed the install, which required destroying the single use clamp on the cold side tubing. I purchased a replacement and all is well. I love the solid notchy feeling of my Stainless steel linkage and the shorter throw from the new control arm. Combined with MPx's short throw shifter kit, clicking through the gears feels great. I've also installed the CDV delete, next up is the rear powertrain mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@DeyemeRacing Are these back in stock yet?
These are in stock, and are improved with THREE positions - stock, sport, and race. The stock position is... well, if you want to make it like stock for warranty work or resale. Sport is a little shorter, and combined with the MPx short-shifter, an excellent feel without being crazy short for inexperienced drivers that might mash it into the wrong gear if it's too close / short. Race is shortest, and best used if you like the shifter length as is (don't plan on putting in a shortened shifter) but want the throw reduced as much as possible.
 

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These are in stock, and are improved with THREE positions - stock, sport, and race. The stock position is... well, if you want to make it like stock for warranty work or resale. Sport is a little shorter, and combined with the MPx short-shifter, an excellent feel without being crazy short for inexperienced drivers that might mash it into the wrong gear if it's too close / short. Race is shortest, and best used if you like the shifter length as is (don't plan on putting in a shortened shifter) but want the throw reduced as much as possible.
Ordered mine today.
Let's see how it pairs up with the Craven Speed short throw.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Awesome! With any of the short shifters, I'd recommend the middle position. But, you can get it assembled and before you put everything else back together (intercooler piping if you have the 1.4L) just shift gears with the engine off, and see where you like it. Let everyone know how it goes!
 

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Awesome! With any of the short shifters, I'd recommend the middle position. But, you can get it assembled and before you put everything else back together (intercooler piping if you have the 1.4L) just shift gears with the engine off, and see where you like it. Let everyone know how it goes!
Absolutely, I'll probably start in the shortest throw configuration and back it off all the way to the other end of the adjustment, then back in until I'm happy.
Then I'll report back with my opinion on the best setting with a short throw.

I'm 1.4t, mtx (obviously)
I'm sure anything will be an improvement over the current bushing completely separated from the rod.
 

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Alright, here's my opinion / review of this upgrade.
Deyeme didn't waste any time getting it to me
Kudos on that.

Install on the 1.4 isn't so much hard as it is time consuming. Took me a solid 2 hours (mixed with playing with my 2 year old)

I started in the middle position on the control arm (I think 16% reduction over stock) and put about 50 miles on it.
In conjunction with the Craven Speed short shifter it feels great. Throw is noticeably shortened a fair amount. Shifting is slightly notchy (in a good way). I can get through the gears more efficiently.

Next I put it in the shortest throw configuration.
To start, I would agree with Travis that this is not an optimal position for an inexperienced hand.
However, I love this position. It reminds me of a dog box.
Throw from 1-2 and 3-4 is an inch at most from gear to gear. It feels absolutely phenomenal when pulling the next gear. You have to take your time and let the syncros do their job. I had a hard time not banging gears like they are straight cuts because it really gives you that feeling of a sequential gearbox.

I have since moved it back to the center position. This is what seems to work best with the existing short throw set up.
The primary reason being is that the side to side movement of the shifter is too great and in the shortest throw, it feels like a poor design.
If I can find a way to reduce side to side movement I wouldn't hesitate to swap it back from the center to the shortest setting.
If you have the linkage rod with the big bushing, this buy is a no brainer.
All slop in the shifter is gone. The shortened throw in the shift arm is a great alternative to a short throw, or a great addition to shorten your throw a bit more if you already have a short shifter.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Great review! We're running the OE shifter in the console, and the shortest position on our own Shift Control Arm (along with our SS shift control rod, of course) and I think if I were running a short shifter, I would probably be running the center position as well.

For those that have the earlier version with only 2 holes, your "short" position is not quite as extreme as the new one. While we made the shortest position more extreme (4mm closer to the fulcrum point) we then added a "middle-of-the-road" position specifically for use with the available short shifters, like those from Modern and Craven.
 

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These are in stock, and are improved with THREE positions - stock, sport, and race. The stock position is... well, if you want to make it like stock for warranty work or resale. Sport is a little shorter, and combined with the MPx short-shifter, an excellent feel without being crazy short for inexperienced drivers that might mash it into the wrong gear if it's too close / short. Race is shortest, and best used if you like the shifter length as is (don't plan on putting in a shortened shifter) but want the throw reduced as much as possible.
Can you upload pictures of the new design for buyers? I believe all the pictures on here and on your site are still the 2 position design :)

ALSO Just placed my order!
 

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Alright, here's my opinion / review of this upgrade.
Deyeme didn't waste any time getting it to me
Kudos on that.

Install on the 1.4 isn't so much hard as it is time consuming. Took me a solid 2 hours (mixed with playing with my 2 year old)

I started in the middle position on the control arm (I think 16% reduction over stock) and put about 50 miles on it.
In conjunction with the Craven Speed short shifter it feels great. Throw is noticeably shortened a fair amount. Shifting is slightly notchy (in a good way). I can get through the gears more efficiently.

Next I put it in the shortest throw configuration.
To start, I would agree with Travis that this is not an optimal position for an inexperienced hand.
However, I love this position. It reminds me of a dog box.
Throw from 1-2 and 3-4 is an inch at most from gear to gear. It feels absolutely phenomenal when pulling the next gear. You have to take your time and let the syncros do their job. I had a hard time not banging gears like they are straight cuts because it really gives you that feeling of a sequential gearbox.

I have since moved it back to the center position. This is what seems to work best with the existing short throw set up.
The primary reason being is that the side to side movement of the shifter is too great and in the shortest throw, it feels like a poor design.
If I can find a way to reduce side to side movement I wouldn't hesitate to swap it back from the center to the shortest setting.
If you have the linkage rod with the big bushing, this buy is a no brainer.
All slop in the shifter is gone. The shortened throw in the shift arm is a great alternative to a short throw, or a great addition to shorten your throw a bit more if you already have a short shifter.
What year dart do you have?

Sent using a rotary phone
 
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