Dodge Dart Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,377 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

Question regarding the MPx Front Strut Bar install for the 2.4L. Specifically regarding anyone who has had their strut caps replaced by the dealer at any point. Having a mental lapse, I did not consider that the newer caps cover one of the holes MPx requires to install the mount. Has anyone come across this and conceived a good work-around? Below is a picture showing the bolt-hole that is still clear, but the other hole is used as part of the new cap. May need to just delete this entire piece and perhaps come up with a gasket for under the new mount.

125941


125942
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,377 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Perhaps I will need to be the test subject here (I also know some believe the front strut is not worth it, but that is another discussion and not a knock on people who hold that opinion). I will remove the assembly to see what that bottom plastic piece is doing to keep the strut mount from rusting. Perhaps some RTV sealant on the underside of the bar mount. I do think I need to better understand what the stepped piece up to the collar is providing in terms of protection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
I would just remove the caps and not worry about it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mass_Paul

·
Registered
2015 Dodge Dart Rallye Blacktop Edition
Joined
·
21 Posts
I'm getting ready to do the same thing in a couple of weeks. Just got the strut bar and some new H&R springs delivered the other day. As far as I know, it's supposed to be a simple install so however it fits should be adequate.
 

·
Registered
2015 Dodge Dart Rallye Blacktop Edition
Joined
·
21 Posts
Hello All,

Question regarding the MPx Front Strut Bar install for the 2.4L. Specifically regarding anyone who has had their strut caps replaced by the dealer at any point. Having a mental lapse, I did not consider that the newer caps cover one of the holes MPx requires to install the mount. Has anyone come across this and conceived a good work-around? Below is a picture showing the bolt-hole that is still clear, but the other hole is used as part of the new cap. May need to just delete this entire piece and perhaps come up with a gasket for under the new mount.

View attachment 125941

View attachment 125942
Ok, so that plastic ring (my 1st picture) needs to come off first. You're going to have to pry it off because it's glued in place. Next, make sure the metal rings provided are on the correct side of the car. The 2 holes will line up (my 2nd picture).

126145


126146
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,377 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ok, so that plastic ring (my 1st picture) needs to come off first. You're going to have to pry it off because it's glued in place. Next, make sure the metal rings provided are on the correct side of the car. The 2 holes will line up (my 2nd picture).

View attachment 126145

View attachment 126146
Nice job and thanks. Have not had much time to dedicate to the Dart as of late. I will need to take the tires off because my lowering springs do not allow for any access underneath. This info will hopefully push me to finally do this.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2015 Dodge Dart Rallye Blacktop Edition
Joined
·
21 Posts
Nice job and thanks. Have not had much time to dedicate to the Dart as of late. I will need to take the tires off because my lowering springs do not allow for any access underneath. This info will hopefully push me to finally do this.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk
I didn't have to remove the tires. Jacked the car up to where the tire was about to come off the ground. Gives you about 10-12" between the top of the tire and the inside of the wheel well. Should give you enough room to reach in. I haven't installed my lowering springs yet, so I'm still at stock ride height. The bolt closer to the fire wall is fairly easy to get to from underneath. The one closer to the engine is a little trickier. One of the spring coils kind of gets in the way of your fingers. I found a 1/2" socket with a 5" extension (no ratchet), and a little finesse to get the right angle, worked.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top