do you have any specs on the 2013 dodge dart 1.4l for the front left - lower control arm, sway bar end link, inner and outer tie rod or the strut?There is a factory service manual you can buy or subscribe to from Techauthority.com or you could subscribe to alldatadiy.com
Some things from the FSM have been posted if you search here. You could ask for specific code causes here or install procedures if they have not been posted. I doubt that you will find something free online. The Mopar FSM for the Dart is not a .pdf. It's all XML
02 - Front Suspension / Front / STRUT, Suspension, Assembly / Removal
1.If both strut assemblies are to be removed, mark the strut assemblies right or left and keep the parts separated to avoid mix-up. Not all parts of the strut assembly are interchangeable side-to-side.
2.Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .
3.Remove the wheel mounting bolts, then the tire and wheel assembly.
4.Remove the staking from the hub nut and remove the hub nut from the axle.
5.Remove the wheel speed sensor harness from the strut and position out of the way.
6. Remove the clip (1) securing the flex hose to the strut.
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7.Remove the caliper adapter bolts (2) and remove the caliper from the rotor. Use a wire or bungee cord to support the caliper.
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8.Remove the wheel speed sensor bolt (2) and remove the wheel speed sensor (1) from the knuckle.
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9. While holding the stabilizer bar link stud stationary, remove the nut (1) securing the link to the strut.
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10.Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut (1) from the knuckle.
Use care when separating the ball joint stud from the knuckle so the ball joint boot does not get cut.
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11. Insert a pry bar (2) in the opening (1) between the control arm front mounting bolt and the front fascia support beam.
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12. Separate the lower control arm from the knuckle by prying down with the pry bar (2).
13. Remove the outer tie rod nut (2) and separate the tie rod (1) from the knuckle.
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14.Separate the axle from the knuckle and support the axle.
15.Insert the ball joint back into the knuckle to support the strut during upper strut clip removal.
16.Lower the hoist until a floor jack can be used to raise the strut to relieve tension on the upper strut clip.
17.Using two screwdrivers, pry the two ends (1, 2) of the strut clip in opposite directions to separate and break the clip. Discard the clip after removal.
View attachment 124746
18.Remove the nut and bolt (1) attaching the strut to the knuckle.
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19.Remove the strut from the vehicle.
Just a word of advice, plan on replacing both left and right control arms as part of this process. See here for the full process from the service manual, which you will have to integrate with the procedure for the strut removal, though the method suggested for removing the ball joint from the knuckle did not work for me. All I managed to do was bend a 3' long 1" hexagonal hardened steel pry bar into a sad curve. The only way it might work is if you had a stronger and longer bar and had the car raised on a lift to get more leverage (which the process assumes to be the case). I used a "pickle fork" wedge tool, a hammer, an open-ended wrench (as a spacer between the knuckle and pickle fork when the pickle fork "bottomed out" agaist the stud and needed more thickness), and a lot of pounding, which slowly wedged the stud out of the knuckle, but also damaged the boot. I honestly don't see any other way to pull the ball joint out with the car jacked up in your driveway/garage. It is hard to convey just how tightly that stud is held in the knuckle, even with the clamping bolt removed, and how limited your options are because of the knuckle's design, but you will understand when you try to remove it.
And of course, schedule at least a front wheel alignment as soon as possible after you replace everything and get it all reassembled.
broken one came right out. just waiting for dodge parts to open so i can try and call to confirm the correct part numbers for my vin and order a new lower control arm and other parts
do you have photo diagram instructions for installing the spring onto the strut? left side. im having trouble uncompressing spring on strut evenly onto strut bearing
What bearing are you talking about? Also, replacing things like the control arm and strut will put the suspension out of alignment. When I replaced my control arm, my Dart only drove straight if the wheel was turned about 10-15 degrees from dead center. It drove me nuts and would have been hell on the tires if I'd left it that way. You will definitely need an alignment.im wondering if it matters which way bearing faces i have it back together and it doesnt seem exactly straight
the bearing on top of the spring seen here, https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-strut-mount-5168235ad/?c=Zz1mcm9udC1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9ZnJvbnQtc3VzcGVuc2lvbiZpPUNIMzA1MDQmcj03JmE9ZG9kZ2Umbz1kYXJ0Jnk9MjAxMyZ0PWxpbWl0ZWQmZT0xLTRsLWw0LWdhcw==. also i put a new control arm in and the sway bar rests on it. its a updated part number from the drive side control arm which does not sit on control bar. the new control arm does have a groove conveniently where sway bar is sitting but does this sound normal? i did hit something a bit ago that technically couldve bent it but im trying to avoid replacing it if possible. replacing front sway bar seems like such a pain.What bearing are you talking about? Also, replacing things like the control arm and strut will put the suspension out of alignment. When I replaced my control arm, my Dart only drove straight if the wheel was turned about 10-15 degrees from dead center. It drove me nuts and would have been hell on the tires if I'd left it that way. You will definitely need an alignment.