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Discussion Starter #1
where can i find instructions or mopar diagnostics for anything on 2013 dodge dart such as replacing or control arm or struts etc.
 

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There is a factory service manual you can buy or subscribe to from Techauthority.com or you could subscribe to alldatadiy.com
Some things from the FSM have been posted if you search here. You could ask for specific code causes here or install procedures if they have not been posted. I doubt that you will find something free online. The Mopar FSM for the Dart is not a .pdf. It's all XML
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There is a factory service manual you can buy or subscribe to from Techauthority.com or you could subscribe to alldatadiy.com
Some things from the FSM have been posted if you search here. You could ask for specific code causes here or install procedures if they have not been posted. I doubt that you will find something free online. The Mopar FSM for the Dart is not a .pdf. It's all XML
do you have any specs on the 2013 dodge dart 1.4l for the front left - lower control arm, sway bar end link, inner and outer tie rod or the strut?
 

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Torque specs? Sure do.

124738
 

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02 - Front Suspension / Front / STRUT, Suspension, Assembly / Removal

REMOVAL

1.If both strut assemblies are to be removed, mark the strut assemblies right or left and keep the parts separated to avoid mix-up. Not all parts of the strut assembly are interchangeable side-to-side.

2.Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .

3.Remove the wheel mounting bolts, then the tire and wheel assembly.

4.Remove the staking from the hub nut and remove the hub nut from the axle.

5.Remove the wheel speed sensor harness from the strut and position out of the way.

6. Remove the clip (1) securing the flex hose to the strut.

124739


7.Remove the caliper adapter bolts (2) and remove the caliper from the rotor. Use a wire or bungee cord to support the caliper.

124740


8.Remove the wheel speed sensor bolt (2) and remove the wheel speed sensor (1) from the knuckle.

124741


9. While holding the stabilizer bar link stud stationary, remove the nut (1) securing the link to the strut.

124742


10.Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut (1) from the knuckle.

NOTE:
Use care when separating the ball joint stud from the knuckle so the ball joint boot does not get cut.

124743


11. Insert a pry bar (2) in the opening (1) between the control arm front mounting bolt and the front fascia support beam.

124744


12. Separate the lower control arm from the knuckle by prying down with the pry bar (2).

13. Remove the outer tie rod nut (2) and separate the tie rod (1) from the knuckle.

124745


14.Separate the axle from the knuckle and support the axle.

15.Insert the ball joint back into the knuckle to support the strut during upper strut clip removal.

16.Lower the hoist until a floor jack can be used to raise the strut to relieve tension on the upper strut clip.

17.Using two screwdrivers, pry the two ends (1, 2) of the strut clip in opposite directions to separate and break the clip. Discard the clip after removal.

124746


18.Remove the nut and bolt (1) attaching the strut to the knuckle.

124747


19.Remove the strut from the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
02 - Front Suspension / Front / STRUT, Suspension, Assembly / Removal

REMOVAL

1.If both strut assemblies are to be removed, mark the strut assemblies right or left and keep the parts separated to avoid mix-up. Not all parts of the strut assembly are interchangeable side-to-side.

2.Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .

3.Remove the wheel mounting bolts, then the tire and wheel assembly.

4.Remove the staking from the hub nut and remove the hub nut from the axle.

5.Remove the wheel speed sensor harness from the strut and position out of the way.

6. Remove the clip (1) securing the flex hose to the strut.

View attachment 124739

7.Remove the caliper adapter bolts (2) and remove the caliper from the rotor. Use a wire or bungee cord to support the caliper.

View attachment 124740

8.Remove the wheel speed sensor bolt (2) and remove the wheel speed sensor (1) from the knuckle.

View attachment 124741

9. While holding the stabilizer bar link stud stationary, remove the nut (1) securing the link to the strut.

View attachment 124742

10.Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut (1) from the knuckle.

NOTE:
Use care when separating the ball joint stud from the knuckle so the ball joint boot does not get cut.

View attachment 124743

11. Insert a pry bar (2) in the opening (1) between the control arm front mounting bolt and the front fascia support beam.

View attachment 124744

12. Separate the lower control arm from the knuckle by prying down with the pry bar (2).

13. Remove the outer tie rod nut (2) and separate the tie rod (1) from the knuckle.

View attachment 124745

14.Separate the axle from the knuckle and support the axle.

15.Insert the ball joint back into the knuckle to support the strut during upper strut clip removal.

16.Lower the hoist until a floor jack can be used to raise the strut to relieve tension on the upper strut clip.

17.Using two screwdrivers, pry the two ends (1, 2) of the strut clip in opposite directions to separate and break the clip. Discard the clip after removal.

View attachment 124746

18.Remove the nut and bolt (1) attaching the strut to the knuckle.

View attachment 124747

19.Remove the strut from the vehicle.

yes thanks alot. is there an install version?
 

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02 - Front Suspension / Front / STRUT, Suspension, Assembly / Installation

INSTALLATION

NOTE: The strut retaining clip must be fully closed and the serrations fully engaged after installation.

1.Install the strut into the vehicle and install each half (1, 2) of the upper strut clip.

2.Press each side of the strut clip (1, 2) toward each other to assemble the clip. Make sure that the clip is fully closed and the serrations fully engaged after installation.

124748


NOTE:
The lower strut retaining bolt does not pass through the hole in the bracket on the strut.

3.Install the bottom of the strut into the top of the knuckle.

4.Install a NEW lower retaining bolt (1) and NEW nut and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

124749


5.Install the axle into the knuckle.

6.Install the outer tie rod (1) into the knuckle.

124750


7.Install the tie rod retaining nut (2) and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

WARNING:
Make sure lower control arm ball joint stud is fully inserted into knuckle before pinch bolt is inserted into knuckle. Only ball joint stud rubber boot should be visible below the knuckle; stud should not be visible. Failure to fully and properly insert ball joint stud could lead to wheel separation and loss of mobility and could result in personal injury and/or death.

8.Install the lower control arm into the knuckle and install a NEW pinch bolt and NEW nut (3) and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

9.Install the stabilizer link (2) to the knuckle and install the retaining nut (1). While holding the link stud stationary, tighten the nut to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

124751


10.Install the wheel speed sensor (1) to the knuckle and install the retaining bolt (2) and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

124752


11.Install the disc brake caliper and adapter bracket assembly over the brake rotor and knuckle.

12.Install NEW mounting bolts (2) securing the caliper adapter bracket to the knuckle and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

124753


13.Install the clip (1) securing the brake flex hose to the strut.

124754


14.Install the wheel speed sensor harness to the strut.

NOTE:
Always install a new hub nut. The original hub nut is one-time use only and must be discarded when removed.


15.Install a NEW hub nut and while a helper applies the brakes, tighten the nut to the proper (Torque Specifications) .

NOTE: Do not use air tools on staking tool while staking hub nut.

16.Using Tool, Front Hub Staking 10287 align the leading cutting edge of tool with the top left side channel on axle as shown (1). Tighten fastener on staking tool with hand tools until the threads bottom out completely.

124755


NOTE: The hub nut must be staked so that it looks similar to Figure 1. Both edges must be split and bent into the shape shown (3). The staking must be in the opposite direction from the forward rotation of the wheel.

17.Install tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22 - Tires and Wheels - Installation) .

18.Lower the vehicle.
 

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Just a word of advice, plan on replacing both left and right control arms as part of this process. See here for the full process from the service manual, which you will have to integrate with the procedure for the strut removal, though the method suggested for removing the ball joint from the knuckle did not work for me. All I managed to do was bend a 3' long 1" hexagonal hardened steel pry bar into a sad curve. The only way it might work is if you had a stronger and longer bar and had the car raised on a lift to get more leverage (which the process assumes to be the case). I used a "pickle fork" wedge tool, a hammer, an open-ended wrench (as a spacer between the knuckle and pickle fork when the pickle fork "bottomed out" agaist the stud and needed more thickness), and a lot of pounding, which slowly wedged the stud out of the knuckle, but also damaged the boot. I honestly don't see any other way to pull the ball joint out with the car jacked up in your driveway/garage. It is hard to convey just how tightly that stud is held in the knuckle, even with the clamping bolt removed, and how limited your options are because of the knuckle's design, but you will understand when you try to remove it.

And of course, schedule at least a front wheel alignment as soon as possible after you replace everything and get it all reassembled.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just a word of advice, plan on replacing both left and right control arms as part of this process. See here for the full process from the service manual, which you will have to integrate with the procedure for the strut removal, though the method suggested for removing the ball joint from the knuckle did not work for me. All I managed to do was bend a 3' long 1" hexagonal hardened steel pry bar into a sad curve. The only way it might work is if you had a stronger and longer bar and had the car raised on a lift to get more leverage (which the process assumes to be the case). I used a "pickle fork" wedge tool, a hammer, an open-ended wrench (as a spacer between the knuckle and pickle fork when the pickle fork "bottomed out" agaist the stud and needed more thickness), and a lot of pounding, which slowly wedged the stud out of the knuckle, but also damaged the boot. I honestly don't see any other way to pull the ball joint out with the car jacked up in your driveway/garage. It is hard to convey just how tightly that stud is held in the knuckle, even with the clamping bolt removed, and how limited your options are because of the knuckle's design, but you will understand when you try to remove it.

And of course, schedule at least a front wheel alignment as soon as possible after you replace everything and get it all reassembled.

something hit from bottom of car cracking the control arm and a few parts around it only on passenger side. passenger side is perfect should i really be replacing both sides?
 

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How many miles on your Dart?
 

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Hard to say, that's not a lot of miles if your roads are smooth, but if your roads are bad, consider replacing both. Like @jsblanch said, that ball joint bolt is tough. See how it goes replacing the broken one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hard to say, that's not a lot of miles if your roads are smooth, but if your roads are bad, consider replacing both. Like @jsblanch said, that ball joint bolt is tough. See how it goes replacing the broken one.
broken one came right out. just waiting for dodge parts to open so i can try and call to confirm the correct part numbers for my vin and order a new lower control arm and other parts
 
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