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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Copy'd from my build thread to gain better traction and spread more knowledge for the community...

This would have been up sooner, if I wasn't having a sick day yesterday (woke up, the room was spinning, the nausea kicked in, and well you know the rest... wife told me to call the boss cause she wasn't going to let me drive if I couldn't see straight)... Anyway, enough about my life, you are here to read about a new product that is coming out for our Darts. One that has been a hotly debate topic through out the months and one that will benefit you in the long run.

Moog K750691 Front Sway Bar Links
20151003_174801-1.jpg

Yes, there is another company that is coming out with aftermarket parts for our beloved Darts and Moog provided us with the problem solvers. If you are not familiar with the Moog brand, here is a brief run down before continue the un-boxing.

MOOG’s reputation as “The Problem Solver” can be traced all the way back to 1937. That was the year the company first produced a front-end replacement part recognized by mechanics as outperforming the factory original. As years passed and MOOG continued to innovate, the company became known for its ability to consistently develop “problem solving solutions.” Today, hundreds of innovations later, MOOG is recognized and respected throughout the automotive industry as The Problem Solver. It continues to earn that reputation by providing not only problem-solving parts, but award-winning technical support and training materials also. MOOG Problem Solver bulletins are one of the helpful tools technicians have come to count on.

Now that's out of the way, why MOOG? Why not BWoody's or just stick with OEM? Good questions right? Well, you already know why I took BWoody's off here; and there are two reasons why I went with MOOG's are not back to OEM...

[table="width: 750, align: center"]
[tr]
[td]
ZERK FITTINGS​
[/td]
[td]
OEM STYLE (IE: not ball & socket)​
[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td] 20151003_175520.jpg [/td]
[td] 20151003_175542.jpg [/td]
[/tr]
[/table]

As you can clearly see there are ZERK fittings for routine lubrication maintenance built in to the Moog end-links. This will prolong the life of the end-links and the life of your suspension. In my opinion this is a much more logical way to do lubrication. Simply hook up your grease gun to the fitting, three pumps and you are good to go with maintenance. Plus what I like about these are that the ZERK fittings are in a easy to locate area and won't be hard to find when you are doing maintenance. The OEM styling of the endlink will also keep the endlinkgs working much more efficiently that the Ball and Socket design that has openings to the elements.

When I opened the Moog's up I knew they weren't the "biggest" diameter, but I knew that they were SOLID. What I mean by solid is that they had some weight to them, they weren't going to "break" easy, you could use one in a fight if you needed (not that I condone violence). Below is a comparison of the OEM stockers, BWoody's & MOOG's with a quarter to show gauge the size:

[table="width: 1000, align: center"]
[tr]
[td]
MOOG's (by itself)​
[/td]
[td]
  • BWoody (Top)
    [*]Moog (middle)
    [*]OEM Stock (bottom)
[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td] 20151003_175612.jpg [/td]
[td] 20151003_180257.jpg [/td]
[/tr]
[/table]

As you can see the Moog's are not the biggest in the diameter, the Bwoody's are the biggest in that category, but the Moog's are a very good improvement over the "stick/twig" like OEM stockers. Now just because they aren't the biggest doesn't mean they aren't solid. So, I figured I would take things to the next level...

[table="width: 1500, align: center"]
[tr]
[td]OEM[/td]
[td]BWoody's[/td]
[td]MOOG[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td] 20151004_130958.jpg [/td]
[td] 20151004_130826.jpg [/td]
[td] 20151004_130706.jpg [/td]
[/tr]
[/table]

If you are having issues with the pics or can't view them here is the run down:
  • OEMs = 1lbs 1.1oz
  • Bwoody's = 1lbs 1.3oz
  • MOOG = 1lb 6.0oz
MOOG's are a full 4.9 ounces heavier than OEM's and 4.7 ounces heavier than BWoody's. No, I'm not shedding weight, and it shouldn't matter about it with the Dart, but what it should be noted that this heavier weight is perfect for suspension parts. These aren't going to "snap" going into a turn and they aren't going to fail when you need them the most. I much rather have heavier more solid suspension parts on my Dart (or any car) than something lightweight and is going to fail within a couple of weeks or months.

Conclusion aka #mooglife

I'm not here to rip one company over another. I had some bad luck with my front BWP endlinks, and I wasn't going to put the stocks back on because I wanted to try something out. MOOG's are a known brand that I trust and I have read countless reviews on how they are still holding up 100k+ miles. I am happy MOOG went with the problem solver design on these for our Darts which means the ZERK fittings are there and are easy for maintenance schedules. I'll be installing these when I get a chance this month and plenty of pics will be taken to show where the ZERK fittings are located when they are installed on the vehicle. I hope you give MOOG's a chance and don't overlook them when you are searching for your next suspension need.

Please remember and make note that you will need QUANTITY 2 (TWO) of K750691 for the complete kit, do not order qty 1 of K750691 or you will just get 1 end-link. As always if you have any other question comments or concerns please feel free to contact me and I will try and assist as much as possible.
 

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sorry you didnt have the chance to do this like a month ago lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are the BWoody ones hollow? It's possible, because in some applications, hollow tubes are stronger than solid rods (a tube is harder to flex). Or are they made of a lighter alloy? It's very surprising that despite being visibly so much larger that they are barely heavier than OEM.
Well, I guess I'll be getting the power saw out one of these days and cutting the BWP's open to see what we are up against. Per their website it doesn't say they are hollow, but there is only one way to find out :)
 

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Well, I guess I'll be getting the power saw out one of these days and cutting the BWP's open to see what we are up against. Per their website it doesn't say they are hollow, but there is only one way to find out :)
Dang, if I was nearby I'd do it with my heavy duty recip saw. I actually purchased that saw for the purpose or removing the front end links on my 2004 Caravan. I bet they're easier to cut when they're not on a vehicle. :)
 

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So when are these getting installed? I feel like should have waited for moogs to begin with, they normally come out with stuff.
Thursday night at the earliest or Saturday night the latest. I also agree with waiting for Moog's...
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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I SPEND A GOOD HOUR FIGHTING WITH THOSE F#$%#% TRYING TO POP THEM BACK IN AND YOU GOING TO GO CUT THEM UP?!?! oh yes for science oh sure sure ok..
Beats trying to cut them off an old minivan after they've accumulated a quarter inch of rust! I was told that next time I should just use a plasma torch. Like my wife is going to let me buy a plasma torch!
 

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Ive used a dremmel to cut the nut in half and then a hammer to break the nut. easy peaazy...you dont want to plasma something that close to the shock, thats under pressure, next to your head and hand when your working :)
 

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Ive used a dremmel to cut the nut in half and then a hammer to break the nut. easy peaazy...you dont want to plasma something that close to the shock, thats under pressure, next to your head and hand when your working :)
I tried using my Dremel, it barely scratched the nut. One of them came off without too much brutal effort, but the second one I had to drill the nut repeatedly to weaken it (went through 7 drill bits), and used my heavy-duty recip saw to finally destroy that little [EXPLETIVES DELETED]. :)
 

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I tried using my Dremel, it barely scratched the nut. One of them came off without too much brutal effort, but the second one I had to drill the nut repeatedly to weaken it (went through 7 drill bits), and used my heavy-duty recip saw to finally destroy that little [EXPLETIVES DELETED]. :)
You do know you can cut the stud from the back and hammer it out too right? :p
 

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I couldn't access the stud on the back side on the Caravan's end links. I had to literally cut its nuts off.
sounds painful
 
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