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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone!

The other day while I was driving my car all of a sudden wouldn't go into gear. It looked like it was a bad bushing on the cable where it connects to the transmission. After taking it apart today I see that it's not the cable. The cable that is controlled by the back and forth direction(not left to right) connects to what looks like a cast lever. Connected to the other side of that lever is a rod, connected by a ball a socket joint, which is connected to another lever by another ball and socket joint that shifts the transmission. The rod is what is the issue. The end that connects to the transmission looks to be missing a bushing and I can't seem to separate the rod from the cast lever. Does anyone know how to go about fixing this? Thanks!

Brad
 

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In that case, hopefully I described it well enough to understand.

Info update. The part I'm referring to is 68166675AA (bolt-tension or strut tension). Now I need to figure out how to get the old one off the cast lever.

@57ChryslerDart
You had mentioned this part in a post you responded to back in May. Any idea how this part comes off? It doesn't seem to want to cooperate. I actually started to bend the rod while trying to take it off.
 

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I got it figured out.
What did you do to remove the old tension strut from the vehicle? What all did you have to do to get to it? I'm putting together instructions for a new bushing for the large end (prototypes are being tested by a few people now), and any insight you or anyone could provide would be really helpful. In my scenario, I was able to clean the tension strut without removing it. I don't have time before the Midwest Dart Meet to dig in again for removal, and the FSM doesn't really go into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got it figured out.
What did you do to remove the old tension strut from the vehicle? What all did you have to do to get to it? I'm putting together instructions for a new bushing for the large end (prototypes are being tested by a few people now), and any insight you or anyone could provide would be really helpful. In my scenario, I was able to clean the tension strut without removing it. I don't have time before the Midwest Dart Meet to dig in again for removal, and the FSM doesn't really go into it.
It's been 7 months since I've dealt with this so i don't remember exactly how I went about removing the the old tension strut.
 

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I've done a number of these installs now, so hopefully this info will help.

First, to remove the tension strut, you can't (easily) pull it off. You have to pry from between it and what it's mounted to - essentially PRESSING it off instead of PULLING it off. Got that figured out while doing some customer installs. A small open-end wrench works well.

Second, after seeing that the only solution out there was to simply throw another crappy OEM part on, I set out to develop something better. So here's what I have...

If the tension strut is in good shape (not bent and the small side locks and stays on) and just the rubber and metal center has fallen out, you can install our firm polyurethane rubber bushing to replace that piece. You just clean the junk out from inside the ring shape, and press in the new bushing. Pop it back on, and you're done. The bushing is made from the same polymer-fiber reinforced polyurethane rubber we make our solid-filled mounts with (the "firm" 75A duro stuff). The other solution is a bit more involved.

Apparently, FCA has shipped SOME Darts with a tension strut that's small on both ends and doesn't have a bushing! Unfortunately, there's no FCA p/n on it, so you can't order it. If you order a OE tension strut, you just get another one with the bushing on one end. So, I also developed a solid stainless steel solution, with no bushing. It's constructed from stainless steel ball links that have a locking pin, and 316 SS threaded rod. Lock nuts hold the perfect distance between the links, and a protective hose covers the threaded middle portion. Both solutions are now available. We've run both of them on our project car, and we currently have the solid SS one in now.

Here's some comparison pics:
new OE tension strut, our old tension strut with the poly bushing, and the complete replacement version.



 

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2015 Dodge Dart Rallye Blacktop Edition
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Thanks, Deyeme. I had actually just found this part on Modern Performance and decided to check mine. Sure enough my bushing is shot and the rod was twisted sideways. Explains why I have trouble getting into 1st gear at times, and why going into 2nd and then back to first works. It straightens the rod back into place. I will definitely be ordering this part along with your Clutch Delay Valve Delete. Thanks, Guys!
 

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I've done a number of these installs now, so hopefully this info will help.

First, to remove the tension strut, you can't (easily) pull it off. You have to pry from between it and what it's mounted to - essentially PRESSING it off instead of PULLING it off. Got that figured out while doing some customer installs. A small open-end wrench works well.

Second, after seeing that the only solution out there was to simply throw another crappy OEM part on, I set out to develop something better. So here's what I have...

If the tension strut is in good shape (not bent and the small side locks and stays on) and just the rubber and metal center has fallen out, you can install our firm polyurethane rubber bushing to replace that piece. You just clean the junk out from inside the ring shape, and press in the new bushing. Pop it back on, and you're done. The bushing is made from the same polymer-fiber reinforced polyurethane rubber we make our solid-filled mounts with (the "firm" 75A duro stuff). The other solution is a bit more involved.

Apparently, FCA has shipped SOME Darts with a tension strut that's small on both ends and doesn't have a bushing! Unfortunately, there's no FCA p/n on it, so you can't order it. If you order a OE tension strut, you just get another one with the bushing on one end. So, I also developed a solid stainless steel solution, with no bushing. It's constructed from stainless steel ball links that have a locking pin, and 316 SS threaded rod. Lock nuts hold the perfect distance between the links, and a protective hose covers the threaded middle portion. Both solutions are now available. We've run both of them on our project car, and we currently have the solid SS one in now.

Here's some comparison pics:
new OE tension strut, our old tension strut with the poly bushing, and the complete replacement version.



First, sorry to revive an old thread but I haven't found the exact answer anywhere else and this seemed like the best place to ask the question. How exactly does one remove the small end of the tension strut from the lever it's connected to on the transmission. I have one of the new Poly bushings you make but can't figure out how to get the strut out to install it.
 
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