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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I got me a used 2013 Dart Ralleye Multi air Turbo , the 1.4 , and it is a great car .
But I bought it and I found out that the rear camera works but with blank screen, the trunk doesn't open by remote , and since on the trunk for this model there is no manual button , we have to rely on the under dash button which do not work also .
The main automatic door locks do not function , we have to lock and unlock each and every door manually.

I spotted 2 reasons but I do not know how to fix, and if I take it to dealer I am going to pay an arm and a leg.

1 - inside the trunk , 5 colored wires were in a black tube , were cut , ( I reconnected them)
2 - I checked all the fuses , there are 3 adjacent ones do not work , although the fuses are brand new. ( I tried to trace the RELAY , main distributer for those 3 fuses, but I couldn't with my primitive knowledge)
Can you help me ?
Did anyone had any of those problems ?
Thank you in advance
.

Rogerkasbah is online now
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also it should be still under warranty ( 3 years) and I wonder if I can use that, since I am not the first Owner ?
 

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The warranty should be transferable
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah I called the dealer , should answer back since last week and yet no one called .
But anyway , I only need to determine which Relay gives the electricity to the fuses of the Main door lock and the trunck under dashboard button.
Thank you in advance , if anyone knows guys ....
 

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Same thing happened to my 2013 Dart Aero purchased new, now with 56K . No key fob problems until day before yesterday. Lights flash, no lock/unlock, or trunk release. Inside buttons unresponsive. Did live chat on Dodge site looking for location of circuit protection, was told to take it to Chrysler dealer for service. Sign at my dealer says electrical work, $100/hour. Thanks for saving me the time of checking all the fuses. That was my next step. Guess I will be using the valet key to unlock the doors until someone out there comes up with a solution!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes I called the dealer to ask where is the fuse for the door lock and the trunk and their tech called back to inform me there is no fuse , it is mechanical problem and they need to open wide the door and change the door buttons .
So I asked on this forum and I got the answer from BULLFROG the following link
(Electrical:Fuse locations and specifications - Dodge Dart Forum
So I wnet in and I learned that there is a third box of Fuses just behind the one under the steering wheel .
the only way to reach it is by opening the ball shape side of the dashboard when you open the door , then you have to unplug the part of the dashboard under the steering wheel , and there it is wide clear .
I pulled out the fuse F38 and it was toasted ,
I changed it , and BANG ON , all is working great .
If you need any other help , let me know
 

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IMG_0540.JPG


So I've just now encountered this problem.

The Manual locks would not function and the trunk button on the fob key was not working as well.

What I did was open the access panel under the steering wheel ( access the mini fuses under steering wheel ).

Then I checked all the (20) fuses.

I found one that was burned out and replaced it.

Once I did that, everything started working immediately.

Im attaching a picture of the specific fuse I replaced .

Hope it helps.
 

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Doors won’t lock , truck won’t open , lights flash .

93BCD5A3-61E0-4C5B-8550-7FDF29158985.jpeg



I have a 2013 Dodge Dart sxt automatic.

So I was having the same problem, and I looked in the fuse box underneath the steering wheel .

I found that one of the 20s fuse was blown and replaced it .

That solve the problem, the doors locked and the trunk opened once more.

One week later that same fuse blows again, I replace it, and a temporary fixes the issue again, yet blows after a couple times testing.

I replace it once more and it’s working fine now.

I’ve been thinking that perhaps it’s something more than just a fuse. Since you replaced a different one and it fix the problem .

I’m attaching a picture of the fuse I replaced a couple times already.
 

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View attachment 105601



I have a 2013 Dodge Dart sxt automatic.

So I was having the same problem, and I looked in the fuse box underneath the steering wheel .

I found that one of the 20s fuse was blown and replaced it .

That solve the problem, the doors locked and the trunk opened once more.

One week later that same fuse blows again, I replace it, and a temporary fixes the issue again, yet blows after a couple times testing.

I replace it once more and it’s working fine now.

I’ve been thinking that perhaps it’s something more than just a fuse. Since you replaced a different one and it fix the problem .

I’m attaching a picture of the fuse I replaced a couple times already.
So on an older car I had a similar issue of a fuse always blowing. Its time to start doing parasitic draw testing and circuit diagnosis to really figure out whats going wrong. It sounds like there is a lose wire someplace or frayed thats causing a short and blowing the fuse.
@alpinegreenneon can you post the wiring digram for that fuse location?

The premise is, you treat the circuit like a tree with the battery at the top and the last items at the end at the bottom and work your way up the tree.

you may want to also use a parasitic draw test and test to see what action may blow the fuse to lead you to a possible faulty component. This helped me when i was doing it on the old car:
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems/parasitic-draw-testing

Keep detailed notes so you dont forget to plug something back in and so that if you have to stop in the middle you dont have to repeat anything.

The problem in the old car i had was the fuse that powered the traction control was on the same circuit as the interior lights, what i found out was that in the sunvisor the wires for the vanity light had broken and were shorting out blowing the fuse. good luck with your diagnosis.
 

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So on an older car I had a similar issue of a fuse always blowing. Its time to start doing parasitic draw testing and circuit diagnosis to really figure out whats going wrong. It sounds like there is a lose wire someplace or frayed thats causing a short and blowing the fuse.
@alpinegreenneon can you post the wiring digram for that fuse location?

The premise is, you treat the circuit like a tree with the battery at the top and the last items at the end at the bottom and work your way up the tree.

you may want to also use a parasitic draw test and test to see what action may blow the fuse to lead you to a possible faulty component. This helped me when i was doing it on the old car:
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems/parasitic-draw-testing

Keep detailed notes so you dont forget to plug something back in and so that if you have to stop in the middle you dont have to repeat anything.

The problem in the old car i had was the fuse that powered the traction control was on the same circuit as the interior lights, what i found out was that in the sunvisor the wires for the vanity light had broken and were shorting out blowing the fuse. good luck with your diagnosis.

That is a great video @Bullfrog. Diagnosing parasitic draw...errrrrr!!! Can be time consuming and any number of things can affect the diagnosis. I can understand why a shop could charge $100 per hour. So, is the Dart a 'luxury vehicle' ? Sounds like it.
 

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F38 on the BCM is the fuse for the door locks.
BCM.jpg

I split the door lock schematics in 3 parts:
doorslocksschematic1.jpg
doorslocksschematic2.jpg
doorslocksschematic3.jpg
 

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I believe there are connectors for each door inside the rubber tubing on the frame, start by unplugging each door power and playing with the lock/unlock and see if you can isolate the door and then work from there. Check out viperman96's build thread on how to dissasemble the doors. There is also a video someplace on speaker replacement that goes on how to remove the door trim.
 

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Also check the wire harness heading into the trunk. Mine was damaged which caused the racetracks and trunk light to stop working. If the trunk release wire is broken that could be shorting out your system
 

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On the back shelf behind the rear seat there is carpet.

Remove the carpet by pulling it up.

There you will find the RF module that control security system to include the door locks.

I had a connector come lose and the same shit happened to me.

Make sure the connectors are firmly plugged in to the RF module.

RF = Radio Frequency
 
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