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Discussion Starter #1
Been lucky I guess, as in 7 Darts with between 25 and 130,000kms I have only changed 1 rear bearing so far. I went straight to Moog because that is the brand I've come to trust over the past 25 years for bearing/ ball joints ect.

110,000kms on the wife's pumpkin Dart and it would seem that at least one of the bearings is starting to make noise. I would go straight to Moog again, specially seeing how the OEM seem to have the most issues., but searching rockauto I found this;https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7618300&cc=3306003&jsn=470

Kicker is, Mevotech is one of the reasons way back when, that I ended up going to Moog Exclusively!

The part I found interesting is that they are greasable. Is that enough to give them a try?

So wondering; Out of the members who have changed their bearings and used after market (Not OEM!) have any had to change that bearing again, and if so, what brand?

I could switch that around and say it this way as well;

All members who have used after market bearing in their Darts;

What brand did you use, and how well have they done?
 

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Looking at the pics, I don't see where they are greaseable. If you can get grease in somehow, then it sort of also means grease can get out. It's not something you want to be doing every 20k miles either.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looking at the pics, I don't see where they are greaseable. If you can get grease in somehow, then it sort of also means grease can get out. It's not something you want to be doing every 20k miles either.
I didn't see any grease zerks either, but assumed they would have to have one because no other way to grease a sealed bearing. lol

Reason for possible interest was reading some members who said grease was all dried up when they changed bearings.

Moog +1, greasable zero so far...……..:big smile:
 

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I'd say if you were up for the experiment just for the heck of it, then sure go for it. But personally I'd go Moog as well. You'll likely never have to do it again. The extra few bucks is worth it.
 

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Go with a brand you trust, its easier piece of mind. The bearings on the dart are assemblies and not press in so it makes it a bit easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'd say if you were up for the experiment just for the heck of it, then sure go for it. But personally I'd go Moog as well. You'll likely never have to do it again. The extra few bucks is worth it.
Cpl things to add here;

Moog use to be lifetime warranty, which was another reason I have gone with them all of these years. When I started looking into this, Moog is now 3 years I believe, while the Mevotech Supreme are lifetime.

I have a parts guy looking into this as we speak. IF there is a grease zerk on the Mevotech bearings, which would allow me to use a very high quality Full synthetic grease in them, I am thinking of changing all 4 on the wifes pumpkin Dart and see how well they do. Experiment, as you say.

As far as maintenance, I believe in proper tire rotation, so greasing the bearings while wheels are off is easy peasy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had a rear start making noise @65k miles and replaced it with a Timken and no issues for about 10k. My tech recommended them said they're probably the best out there.
I haven't heard anything bad about Timken bearings. Still a lot that swear by them.

Interesting reading their description, says they are built lighter to remove reciprocating mass for less unsprung weight and better performance/ fuel eco, among other things.

Would be interesting to know just how much lighter they are...…..
 

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It used to be that hub flange that holds the lugs was the same thickness throughout. Now all the manufacturers of bearings/hubs only have the thicker part around the lug holes. Not sure how that holds up with autocrossing? Back in the day, Neon ACRs had even thicker hub flanges.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, after talking to my local parts guy about the Mevotech bearings he said there was no such thing, as Mevotech Supreme line doesn't include bearings.

So I contacted rockauto and they kind of dodged the Q lol

So I contacted Mevotech and they were very appreciative of my call and are going to straighten the whole thing out.

Turns out my guy was correct;

1. There is no Supreme line of bearings

2. The bearings are sealed units and Not greasable

3. The warranty is 5 year/ 100,000 km, Not Limited Lifetime (still the best warranty out there AFAIK)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
It used to be that hub flange that holds the lugs was the same thickness throughout. Now all the manufacturers of bearings/hubs only have the thicker part around the lug holes. Not sure how that holds up with autocrossing? Back in the day, Neon ACRs had even thicker hub flanges.
I believe there are thickened "fingers" that branch out to the extent of the lugs, so area around base + fingers to around lugs is thickened. Then thinner "webbing" between.

I remember looking into this when I modified the rear hubs on the Charger. Can't remember exactly what I did, but I was able to remove a decent amount of weight from them without effecting strength/ durability. IMS they had quite a bit of extra material (larger circumference) than needed and I think this is where most of the savings came from. (shaved it back to just before the thickened lug area)

Update; Inquiring minds Need to know lol

Ordered 2 of each front and rear, Moog and Timken. The 12 month warranty on the Timken seems strange as I've only heard good things about that brand, but wasn't enough to Not want to check out this "lighter" claim.

Also, interestingly the 5 year 100,000km warranty on the Mevotech wasn't enough to sway me this time. Might give them a go in the future on a customers Dart that is interested in "testing" that warranty claim......
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Bearings came in. Ended up being the drivers rear bearing that was gone. Inner race hot and grease burnt, outer race and grease looks new. (FTR went @ 110,000kms)

Now to the bearings themselves, as I ordered the Timken's to see what this lighter design might be. They are cheaper then the Moog, (rear by 10.00 but front a 40.00 US difference, so 50+ for us Canuks) but it was the claim that they were designed lighter for better mpg and less unsprung weight that got me to purchase them.

Moog rear 3lb 9.8oz

Timken rear 3lb 9.7oz

Stock rear 3lb 9.6oz

That was a disappointment...….

On to the fronts;

Moog front 5lb 12.5oz

Timken 5lb 11.5oz

So fronts are 1 oz lighter than the Moog's, didn't get to weigh a stock front because didn't need to change one.

I was hoping for a 6-8oz difference as 1oz really isn't going to amount to squat. (plus I don't even know where it's taken from)

So first time buying Timken, slightly disappointed at their claims vs truth. I installed the Moog rear on the orange winter Dart and will continue to replace with Moog.

Going to use the Timken's on the wife's summer Dart when it needs bearings.

Won't really be a fair comparo, because the orange Dart sees winter and rougher conditions (DD) while her Citrus Dart is summer only now.

Still, it will allow me to keep tabs and if the Timken's last as long as the Moog's for the difference in price I'll be fine with that :)
 

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Bearings came in. Ended up being the drivers rear bearing that was gone. Inner race hot and grease burnt, outer race and grease looks new. (FTR went @ 110,000kms)

Going to use the Timken's on the wife's summer Dart when it needs bearings.
I had a bearing issue recently on my 2014 SXT. Just started getting a loud wheel noise over about 30 mph. The tires were fine, so I assumed a bearing and it sounded like a rear bearing. We had the same thing on my wife's Focus and drove it over a year, but the Dart noise was starting to get worse quickly, so I thought I better deal with it. Took the Dart out of service and drove the backup car all week.

The usual tricks to figure out which side to replace did not avail me, so I bought two replacements. I had good luck with Moog on replacement springs for another car, and I read their page on design improvements wrt/ the OEM bearings, so they sold me.

Getting at the car finally, I started with the left side which I thought was maybe a little hotter than the right -- turned out to be an illusion. I was a bit shocked to find an aftermarket Moog bearing staring at me already... must mean the factory bearing failed PRIOR TO 44k miles, shameful. Also the dust cap was all dinged and the brake rotor screw was stripped, not exactly pro workmanship on that bearing swap. I had to pull the disc and hub together and take them to my drill press to get the stripped set screw out. Who puts a 5 mm Allen key on a half inch set screw? I am sorry but that is a design flaw.

I had to go all the way to Fredericksburg to find replacement set screws, too. I was surprised how few fasteners the local dealers keep in stock, practically nothing. Also they don't have fasteners the manual tells you to throw away and replace -- there are a lot of those on the Dart.

Put the left back together and a test drive showed no change to the noise, so I guessed wrong. At least the Moog replacement was still happy at 74k miles. Swapped the right side the next day, this one was untouched and actually took me less than an hour -- lightning speed for me. The set screw came right out. The old bearing had some minor heat marks and it actually came right off the spindle for me. Everything torqued back together and had a nice quiet test drive, so problem solved.

It's disappointing that the bearings barely make it out of warranty on this car. Also sad that neither OEM nor replacements come with a grease fitting. You have to run them until they die, then replace the whole hub. Old school re-packable wheel bearings have basically infinite life if you take care of them. Get off my lawn!
 
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