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So I caved and got a set of switchbacks. I'm guessing none of you have switchbacks that run white in DRL mode? Mine are amber in DRL, then change to white when I turn on the headlights.

Is there any way to get them to be white in DRL mode?
 

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Is there any way to get them to be white in DRL mode?
You have type 1 switchbacks which are Amber DRL / White Turn-Signal. For what you are looking for you want type 2 switchbacks with White DRL / Amber Turn-Signal.

Edit: I think I miss read your question, because of that I'm not sure if I did answer it correctly or not. I'll let one of the other lighting guru's on the .org take a stab at answering. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #43
So I caved and got a set of switchbacks. I'm guessing none of you have switchbacks that run white in DRL mode? Mine are amber in DRL, then change to white when I turn on the headlights.

Is there any way to get them to be white in DRL mode?
from my experience I have not been able to get this to work. I have always had my running lights feature turned off because it will burn the stock housings up if you run the stock bulbs. If you run with them on, they will be amber when the head lights are not on.

This is how it is programmed to work in the car. When the running lights are ON in the touch screen settings, when you start driving (automatics will be when you put it in drive, manuals will be when you drop the parking brake and start moving), the lights come on. When they come on they are on FULL brightness even when the car has no lights on, this is also true if you have the center switch selected, which will turn your fogs and corner markers on, along with your tail lights, but not the headlights. When you turn your headlights on it goes to half brightness. Think of the blinkers. When you have the stock blinkers, it will go FULL-half-FULL-half. They never actually turn off.

The only way to get around this is to turn running lights OFF in the touch screen setting. If you do not have a touch screen, you will need to make a dealer trip and they can turn it off for you.

I have mine turned off, and when I have my headlights on, or just in the center selected option they are white. The only time they are amber is when I turn the signals on. That is what you are looking for.
 

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from my experience I have not been able to get this to work. I have always had my running lights feature turned off because it will burn the stock housings up if you run the stock bulbs. If you run with them on, they will be amber when the head lights are not on.

This is how it is programmed to work in the car. When the running lights are ON in the touch screen settings, when you start driving (automatics will be when you put it in drive, manuals will be when you drop the parking brake and start moving), the lights come on. When they come on they are on FULL brightness even when the car has no lights on, this is also true if you have the center switch selected, which will turn your fogs and corner markers on, along with your tail lights, but not the headlights. When you turn your headlights on it goes to half brightness. Think of the blinkers. When you have the stock blinkers, it will go FULL-half-FULL-half. They never actually turn off.

The only way to get around this is to turn running lights OFF in the touch screen setting. If you do not have a touch screen, you will need to make a dealer trip and they can turn it off for you.

I have mine turned off, and when I have my headlights on, or just in the center selected option they are white. The only time they are amber is when I turn the signals on. That is what you are looking for.
This is an unfortunate truth of our cars.
 

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I did install the Switchbacks DRL/Amber L&R LED bulbs with the 100w load resistor along with 2 LED decoders which works great to avoid the hyper flash & the 'PARK LIGHT OUT MSG' from popping up every min or so, but fails to cancel the 'Park light out msg' from apearing once I start the car, also after msg pops & disappears it turns off tail stripe "tail light" at night time or day, "if I was to turn lights half way.." Tried using 1 LED decoder on driver's side but still same 'PARK LIGHT OUT msg' pops up once, turns off tail light.

Tried same thing on Left side 'Fail as well, same issue' will replace load resistors that came with "Switchbacks DRL/Amber" for 50w instead of 100w. If I'm still getting same error will try adding the LED decoder on Driver's side and see if that finally solves the issue with 'Park Light out msg' from appearing everytime I start the car along with shutting down my tail light after 2 secs PARK LIGHT OUT msg goes away. Also for those looking to install LEDs headlights instead of HID, I replaced my Factory Halogen Bulbs with LEDs 4800lm. Without 50w load resistor I was getting 'low beam light out, issue solved after adding 50w load resistor on both sides. Also replaced my fog light halogen bulbs with Fog LEDs bulbs as well w/out load resistors as I got no error messages in regards to FOG LIGHT OUT. That's all the info I have to share for now.. Hoping I can get this 'Park light out msg' gone for good! I will post pics of my wiring set up soon as soon as I get this annoying error gone! :crazy:

Just some pics that I forgot to update of my led install!

Parking light wire 50w 20 ohm (pictured is a 10w, it got a bit too hot for comfort so we used 50w)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MLLPDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
View attachment 51666


Turn signal wire 25w 8 ohm
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JIJ98PM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
View attachment 51667


Got bigger wattage resistors for parking light wires. 100w used after the small above, too much. Didn't want to turn on. So we tried 50w, works great.
View attachment 51668

View attachment 51669

View attachment 51670

View attachment 51671

View attachment 51672

I want to say the parking light wire is the wire in the center. There are three wires on the socket. Parking, turn signal, and ground. The grounds were all combined and used in a wire cap. I haven't messed with them in a while but I am pretty sure the center one is the parking light. I'll have to check. But if you use t taps like I did (WHICH I HIGHLY RECOMMEND), then you can just unplug and swap them.

My advise is to first install one resistor. Either parking or turn signal. Then turn the car one with leds in and use the signal. See if the "Parking light error" is gone or the Left/Right turn signal out, is gone. If it is, then you have successfully wired your resistor in right. If not, try swapping. We also ran into the issue where the driver side and passenger side seemed to be swapped... we did the same thing as we did on the driver side and were getting both park light out and turn signal out. We were baffled and said hm let's swap them? Boom. Maybe we are just stupid and grabbed the wrong wire. Highly likely. lol But anyways there is some info on the resistors!

Warning: Some switch backs don't like this setup. Specifically kinds with resistors already in them (canbus or error canceling leds).
 

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Thanks for keeping this thread alive Spiktsu...:smile:
Been looking for a solution to the LED switchbacks for a while now...
Hopefully we will have it figured out soon
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thanks for keeping this thread alive Spiktsu...:smile:
Been looking for a solution to the LED switchbacks for a while now...
Hopefully we will have it figured out soon
Well this thread is stickied because mine have been working since I posted this. So it's been a little over a year and I have never had a park light out or turn signal out warning :) I think spiktsu is having an issue because he's added new tracklights that were not stock IIRC, and his way is causing issues with turning things off. He's also using LED decoders which I have experimented with, and it was never 100% working right. Mainly due to the parking light circuit being integrated into the same socket as the turn signal. There needs to be two different resistances on the parking light and the turn signal circuits so that is why I do not think the plug and play decoders will not work properly unless you add more resistors along with it, but I think it actually needs less on the park light and that is the issue. I haven't looked to much into his presented solution, since mine works great so I have stuck with it.
 

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Thanks for keeping this thread alive Spiktsu...:smile:
Been looking for a solution to the LED switchbacks for a while now...
Hopefully we will have it figured out soon
Thank you, thank you all for all the replies.. I gave up! :wink: I bought 5000k halogen bulbs for headlights & fog lights and placed halogen turning signals back on.. Ran out of patient and I have more important things to do with my life than to be messing with my car's electronic BS :furious: ..but I'm happy w/5000k halogen bulbs.
Again, thank you all for the replies and happy new year!

Edit:

Yeah those 5000k halogen wanna be were not bright as planned, I ended up going with true H.I.D 5000k - now we are talking!! Love these bad boys!! Headlights and Fog lights replaced with success.

I have ordered these: Innovited Premium AC Canbus HID Kit 100% Error Free No Flicker No Warning - 9012 - 5000K and these for the fog lights: Innovited Premium AC Canbus HID Kit 100% Error Free No Flicker No Warning - H11 H9 H8 - 5000K























I has been a week so far and happy to mention that so far so good.
No flickers, no canbus errors, no nothing :in love:
I was planning to upgrade my turning signals to LEDs but after trying
a bunch of plug and play w/out success I gave up for now.
Mostly happy I was able to get these H.I.D. 5000k bulbs to work perfectly.
In regards to the turning signals and the annoying Park Light Out Error
after reading all exp from everyone here ..I believe I know what must
be done.. I did got rid of the Park Light Error by having a plug and play
that has 2 load resistors on each side, these: Alla Lighting 7443 Adapter Canbus Error Fix
but it would cause the tail lights to turn off so I got these now: VIPMotoZ 7443 7444 T20 White & Amber Switchback LED Bulbs Complete Kit
It comes with 1 load resistor on each side, Im going to add 1 extra 50w
load resistor on the other 2 cords that it doesnt have it them, then
we'll see what happens.. but in case that doesnt work either, I will
give up. In case I really want the DRL LEDs installed, will go to
a Shop and share here what they done to make it work.

Best regards,
Spiktsu
 

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I have a switchback 7443 led and for what i read it is doigg "hyper flashes" and on what i read again it is bad? Because the car is saying that it needs to be changed. What do i need to do, im new at this stuff. My dad is always busy to help me out. And as i repeAt im newbie to this stuff. Please be respectful thank you
 

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I have followed your guide completely and everything is working with no errors. I have the 7443 switchback leds from amazon. I used two 6 ohm 50 watt resistors and two 20 ohm 50 watt resistors. The only question I have is did you use any heat sync compound. These load resistors get pretty warm for the parking light side. I have them all mounted to metal but dont want to melt my car.
Thanks for keeping this thread alive Spiktsu...:smile:
Been looking for a solution to the LED switchbacks for a while now...
Hopefully we will have it figured out soon
 

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Discussion Starter #52
BUMP:

I did end up replacing my turn signal resistors yesterday. One of them finally took a crap. It was pretty corroded and it fell right apart so I have a feeling it was due to weather, but I replaced them with the 50w 6ohm resistors instead, and those also work compared to what I previously posted. I updated the thread with all the links and pics so take a peak at that here
 

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I have followed your guide completely and everything is working with no errors. I have the 7443 switchback leds from amazon. I used two 6 ohm 50 watt resistors and two 20 ohm 50 watt resistors. The only question I have is did you use any heat sync compound. These load resistors get pretty warm for the parking light side. I have them all mounted to metal but dont want to melt my car.
intub8 which resistors did you use where? i.e. 20ohm on turn and 6ohm on Park or was it reversed?
 

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Is anyone selling plug-n-play bulbs that will work in our Darts yet? Having to screw around with soldering resistors and re-soldering when they burn off, and dealing with dash "bulb out" trouble lights is not worth it. So, who's selling good stuff? Anyone, or no one?
 

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No, I had my car for 2 years and havent found any plug'n'play solution friend, but Im going to attempt to make my own, if it works I would happy sale you a pair!

Is anyone selling plug-n-play bulbs that will work in our Darts yet? Having to screw around with soldering resistors and re-soldering when they burn off, and dealing with dash "bulb out" trouble lights is not worth it. So, who's selling good stuff? Anyone, or no one?
 

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No, I had my car for 2 years and havent found any plug'n'play solution friend, but Im going to attempt to make my own, if it works I would happy sale you a pair!
How did that turn out?
 

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It must not have gone so well, since he hasn't logged in since making that post.
Hello guys, I have been absence for a long time indeed.. But good news are they have not fallen, all remains in the same spot.. All gets super hot, but so far so good.
Thank you all for all the info provided.
 

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Hello guys, I have been absence for a long time indeed.. But good news are they have not fallen, all remains in the same spot.. All gets super hot, but so far so good.
Thank you all for all the info provided.
hey would you be willing to sell a couple im in desperate need of a plug n play
 

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hey would you be willing to sell a couple im in desperate need of a plug n play
I am not sure he means he made his own plug and play solution. I think he just means his install, which he followed my write up, is still holding up. This car was released 7 years ago. There still isn't a plug and play solution for us, and more than likely never will be. Best bet is follow the write up and get your hands dirty. It's not the most straight forward, but I think I have all the information presented in a way that anyone can do this.

On a side note, almost 5 years strong and other than a replacement or 2 of resistors that burnt out, still going strong with this set up on my car!
 
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