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Or bottomless pockets...

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Or bottomless pockets...

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Indeed. Now that I've taken the shifter bezel off to have a look at the pin, I'm wondering if it's not the solenoid that it triggers that might be intermittently sticking. The switch is making good contact well before the full release of the button on the shifter. That, or the switch itself is defective, which would be a problem, since it's probably only available as part of an entire shifter module. Oh well, it seemed fine tonight, so we'll see what fresh horrors the morning brings. :wink:
 

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I have a 2013 1.4L Automatic Limited Dart with the "key won't come out of the ignition issue. I resolved the issue by spraying Radio Shack Electronics Cleaner on the micro switch shown on page 2 of this thread and then blowing it out with compressed air. You can hear the solenoid activate every time you press the button on the gear shifter now and the key is released every time.
 

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My girlfriend has a 13 limited and very often the key won't come out of the ignition. When you turn the car off the ignition gets stuck and won't turn all the way to off usually pushing the shifter button a couple times will cause it to release and you'll hear it click in the dash behind the lock cylinder when it does release. Is this a known issue and what specifically is causing it?
 

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My girlfriend has a 13 limited and very often the key won't come out of the ignition. When you turn the car off the ignition gets stuck and won't turn all the way to off usually pushing the shifter button a couple times will cause it to release and you'll hear it click in the dash behind the lock cylinder when it does release. Is this a known issue and what specifically is causing it?
Did you get a chance to fix it? Mine has the same problem. 🤦🏽‍♂️
 

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I had the same
Problem. The dealer replaced the gear shifter in 2015 aero se 1.4t ddct. Unfortunately it was out of warranty. Cost me like 600bucks! Works like a gem now.
 

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Yes, you could have a dealer do it or if you get the alfaOBD app, you should be able to do it yourself. The RFHM Verification test needs to be done when that ignition switch is replaced.
ALFAOBD (Advanced diagnostics through OBD2, DIY Proxy Allignment)

RADIO FREQUENCY HUB (RF HUB) VERIFICATION TEST

NOTE: If other electronic modules need to be replaced, besides the RF-Hub, see the "Replacement and Programming Order Guide" before proceeding. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules - Standard Procedure) .

For a complete wiring diagram, refer to the Wiring Information.

Perform the following after completion of a diagnostic repair:

VERIFICATION TEST

1. Reconnect the previously disconnected components and connectors.

2. It may be necessary to obtain the vehicle's unique Personal Identification Number (PIN) assigned to the vehicle. This number can be obtained from the original vehicle invoice or from your Service Manager or Parts Manager.

NOTE: If, during programming, the scan tool instructs to "Enter the vehicle PIN number", care should be taken because the Radio Frequency Hub Module (RFHM) will only allow 3 consecutive attempts to enter the correct PIN. If 3 consecutive incorrect PIN's are entered, the RFHM will Lock Out the scan tool. To exit Lock Mode, the ignition must remain in the On position for 25 minutes. All accessories must be off. A battery charger connected to the battery during this time period is recommended.

NOTE: The Body Control Module (BCM) stores the secret key information on the IGnition Node Module (IGNM) only. When the RFHM needs to be replaced, the secret key information will be retrieved from the BCM and then transferred to the new RFHM for security use.

NOTE: If the BCM is also being replaced at this time, refer to the RFHM, BCM, FOBIK Replacement and Programming Guide and follow the proper order before proceeding. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/Standard Procedure) .

3. Turn the ignition on.

4. With the scan tool select the RFHM.NOTE: If the scan tool displays a message indicating a “PROXI Configuration issue” press “Continue” and follow the directions on the scan tool.

5. Turn the ignition off.

6. If the RFHM was replaced or any un-programmed or new FOBIKs, program all FOBIKs that are to be used with this vehicle. With the scan tool, select "Misc. Functions", "Program Ignition FOBIKs" and follow the instructions on the screen.

NOTE: All FOBIKs that are to be used in this vehicle must remain on the front seat near the console during programming.

NOTE: If the RFHM is being replaced with a new unit, a diagnostic scan tool MUST be used to align the PROXI configuration data into the new ECU. Follow the routine outlined in the diagnostic scan tool for PROXI Configuration Alignment under Body Control Module (BCM) Miscellaneous Functions menu.

7. If the RFHM module was replaced, with the scan tool select ”RFHM”, "Misc. Functions", "RFHM Replace" and follow the instructions on the screen.

8. Turn the ignition on then off leaving the key in the On position.

9. If the RFHM was replaced; Update the Front and Rear Axle Normal Tire Pressure Values.

10. If the RFHM was replaced; Program the Tire Sensor IDs.

11. With the scan tool, erase all RFHM DTCs.

12. Operate all equipped RFHM functions (Passive Entry, Remote Start, Ignition Positions etc.).

13. Wait four minutes.

14. With the scan tool, read the RFHM DTCs.

Are there any RFHM DTCs present or any RFHM functions not operating properly?

Yes

•Repair not complete, (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RFHM) - Diagnosis and Testing) and perform the appropriate diagnostic procedure.

No

•Repair is complete.
Can you please give me a walk through of how to do the first parts. My key gets stuck way to often.
 

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If you read the entire thread, the problem is not the ignition node but rather the microswitch in the shiter. Tweak the switch and you should be able to get it to stop getting stuck.
 

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Can you please give me a walk through of how to do the first parts. My key gets stuck way to often.
If you read the entire thread, the problem is not the ignition node but rather the microswitch in the shiter. Tweak the switch and you should be able to get it to stop getting stuck.
 
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