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Discussion Starter #1
My girlfriend has a 13 limited and very often the key won't come out of the ignition. When you turn the car off the ignition gets stuck and won't turn all the way to off usually pushing the shifter button a couple times will cause it to release and you'll hear it click in the dash behind the lock cylinder when it does release. Is this a known issue and what specifically is causing it?
 

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It could be the shifter is not properly in Park or the ignition switch in the dash is having a problem with this feature:

KEY REMOVAL INHIBIT

The Key Removal Inhibit has a motor driven gear internal to the IGNM to facilitate this feature. This prevents the key from going past accessory (to off) if the gear shifter is not in Park.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So that would be basically the ignition switch /lock cylinder correct? Does that have to be programmed by a dealer?
 

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Yes, you could have a dealer do it or if you get the alfaOBD app, you should be able to do it yourself. The RFHM Verification test needs to be done when that ignition switch is replaced.
http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dod...ostics-through-obd2-diy-proxy-allignment.html

RADIO FREQUENCY HUB (RF HUB) VERIFICATION TEST

NOTE: If other electronic modules need to be replaced, besides the RF-Hub, see the "Replacement and Programming Order Guide" before proceeding. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules - Standard Procedure) .

For a complete wiring diagram, refer to the Wiring Information.

Perform the following after completion of a diagnostic repair:

VERIFICATION TEST

1. Reconnect the previously disconnected components and connectors.

2. It may be necessary to obtain the vehicle's unique Personal Identification Number (PIN) assigned to the vehicle. This number can be obtained from the original vehicle invoice or from your Service Manager or Parts Manager.

NOTE: If, during programming, the scan tool instructs to "Enter the vehicle PIN number", care should be taken because the Radio Frequency Hub Module (RFHM) will only allow 3 consecutive attempts to enter the correct PIN. If 3 consecutive incorrect PIN's are entered, the RFHM will Lock Out the scan tool. To exit Lock Mode, the ignition must remain in the On position for 25 minutes. All accessories must be off. A battery charger connected to the battery during this time period is recommended.

NOTE: The Body Control Module (BCM) stores the secret key information on the IGnition Node Module (IGNM) only. When the RFHM needs to be replaced, the secret key information will be retrieved from the BCM and then transferred to the new RFHM for security use.

NOTE: If the BCM is also being replaced at this time, refer to the RFHM, BCM, FOBIK Replacement and Programming Guide and follow the proper order before proceeding. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/Standard Procedure) .

3. Turn the ignition on.

4. With the scan tool select the RFHM.NOTE: If the scan tool displays a message indicating a “PROXI Configuration issue” press “Continue” and follow the directions on the scan tool.

5. Turn the ignition off.

6. If the RFHM was replaced or any un-programmed or new FOBIKs, program all FOBIKs that are to be used with this vehicle. With the scan tool, select "Misc. Functions", "Program Ignition FOBIKs" and follow the instructions on the screen.

NOTE: All FOBIKs that are to be used in this vehicle must remain on the front seat near the console during programming.

NOTE: If the RFHM is being replaced with a new unit, a diagnostic scan tool MUST be used to align the PROXI configuration data into the new ECU. Follow the routine outlined in the diagnostic scan tool for PROXI Configuration Alignment under Body Control Module (BCM) Miscellaneous Functions menu.

7. If the RFHM module was replaced, with the scan tool select ”RFHM”, "Misc. Functions", "RFHM Replace" and follow the instructions on the screen.

8. Turn the ignition on then off leaving the key in the On position.

9. If the RFHM was replaced; Update the Front and Rear Axle Normal Tire Pressure Values.

10. If the RFHM was replaced; Program the Tire Sensor IDs.

11. With the scan tool, erase all RFHM DTCs.

12. Operate all equipped RFHM functions (Passive Entry, Remote Start, Ignition Positions etc.).

13. Wait four minutes.

14. With the scan tool, read the RFHM DTCs.

Are there any RFHM DTCs present or any RFHM functions not operating properly?

Yes

•Repair not complete, (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RFHM) - Diagnosis and Testing) and perform the appropriate diagnostic procedure.

No

•Repair is complete.
 

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From the FSM:

MODULE, Ignition Node / Removal
REMOVAL

dartignm.jpg

1.Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. If equipped with an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS), disconnect the IBS connector first before disconnecting the negative battery cable.

2.Remove the dash end cap.

3.Remove the steering column opening cover.

4.Disconnect the wire harness connector from the Ignition Node Module (IGNM).

5.Remove 4 screws retaining the IGNM to the panel.

dartignm2.jpg

6.Remove the IGNM from the backside of the instrument panel.



MODULE, Ignition Node / Installation

INSTALLATION

1.Install the Ignition Node Module (IGNM) into the instrument panel from the backside.

2.Pull the Ignition Node Module into place.

3.Install 4 screws to the IGNM.

4.Connect Electrical harness connector to the IGNM.

5.Install the steering column opening cover and connect the related wire harness connectors.

6.Install the dash end cap.

7.Connect the negative battery cable. If equipped with an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS), connect the IBS connector to the negative battery cable.

8.If IGNM is being replaced, perform the RFHM verification test.(Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) /Standard Procedure) .

Since the PIN is stored in the BCM, it might be possible that the verification test is redundant. I just heard from a friend that the IGNM is on national back order and that this part does fail not just on Darts by not letting the key get removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It does not sound hard to do at all really as long as it doesn't need to be programmed. Since I don't have that capability.
 

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Because of the national backorder, it may take awhile to get the part. It's probably a plastic gear in the node, can't believe such an important part is made with inferior components. In the meantime, consider getting the alfaOBD app. Once you install the new part, it would be better if you could do the verification test in your garage instead of having the car towed to the dealer. When I was trying to figure out which TPMS sensor problem, I accessed the RFHM, no problem with the app.
 

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Yes, and an Android device. Go on their site and read the details.

EDIT: @MichNeon has figured out the problem and will post details later. The problem is not the ignition node but instead is a interlock switch in the shifter. Should be an easy fix.
 

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Hello, everyone! Back in December, i had a 2014 Cherokee come in for the problem with the key stuck in the ignition node. At that time, i did'nt have a full understanding of the system setup. We ordered an ignition node, and were told, that it was on national backorder. Now, for those who do not know, there are two types of backorder; one is a local backorder, it means that the part is not available in the immediate vicinity, and is oftentimes available in a nearby region, and they take up to a week to arrive. The second backorder type is the national; that means none of the part(s) is available in the entire country. This type can take anywhere from a month or two to get, up to a year or more. This has been a weird week for me, as i got to work on a Dart and was able to help out about the power outlet in the front of the center console. Credit goes to Alpinegreenneon for inspiring me to look into that one. Today, that 2014 Cherokee came in, and i was surprised to see the ignition node, i was'nt expecting it to show up for a while longer. I proceeded to install the replacement node, it worked perfectly for a couple of key cycles, the key was'nt getting stuck. Then it happened, the key got stuck. I started checking everything, and found something interesting. It turns out that the problem is not with the node, it is with the brake shift interlock switch in the shifter. I noticed that the switch had a simple tang that gets pushed up by a peg on the shift lever, that in turn pushes on the button in the switch, which then allows the node to allow the key to be turned to the off position and to unlock the key so it can be removed from the node. The tang was'nt quite pushing the button on the switch, and when i pushed it up, i heard the node unlock the key.
Now, the switch as far as i am aware right now, is not available separately, it is part of the shifter. I tried to bend the tang to allow it to push the button, but it is tricky too adjust it and to keep the brake interlock feature working properly. It has to be at the right distance and angle to do what it is supposed to do properly. The shifter assembly between the Cherokee and the Dart are similar, but have different part numbers. There's 14 part numbers for the Dart alone, it depends on the trans and the packages/trims of the car. The Cherokee is the same way. The shifters have a basic design in that the brake interlock system is in the shifter, and communicates with the ignition node over the bus.There is only one cable, it is the gearshift cable from the trans to the shifter. All other functions in the shifter is communicated over the bus. Here are some pics i took of the shifter, console, and the ignition node. You can see the brake interlock switch in the pics. WP_20170215_001[1].jpg WP_20170215_002[1].jpg WP_20170215_003[1].jpg WP_20170215_004[1].jpg WP_20170215_005[1].jpg WP_20170215_006[1].jpg WP_20170215_007[1].jpg

Edit, 2259; If you find your key stuck, the shifter bezel is simply clipped in place, just pop it loose, peek under it, and you may be able to see the switch. Then you'll need to push the tang to push the button, once that happens, you'll hear the node unlock the key. I will see if i can see the Dart shifter tomorrow. I'm thinking that the shifter and it's bezel is similar to the Cherokee setup.
 

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So in this pic, I inserted an arrow on the interlock switch pointing to what looks like a screw. Is that a possible adjustment point? And just moving the lever on that switch will release the key?
dartshiftermicroswitch.jpg

Edit:
After zooming in, it's not a screw. Adjustment would be playing with bending the lever or putting a sleeve on the button.
 

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My car is having the ignition switch issue. Would it be possible to to install the push button ignition?
It would be quite involved. The push button ignition would have to include all the passive entry stuff. Then there is the programming for the RKE and the 4 digit SKIS. Even with the pushbutton system, if the microswitch isn't working correctly, the pushbutton switch would not know if the car is really in Park. See if you can play with the microswitch to get it working correctly.
 

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Mechanically the u-switch is working, contact wise I'm not sure. I wish I had some bare solder terminals so I can test the switch. I haven't looked into if the cover of the switch can be removed gain access to the wires.
 

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You know what, I should have taken the failed sprayers nozzles for what they were: the universe's first, last, and only warning that it was going to start delivering swift kicks to the nether regions now that my Dart was out of warranty. So now, not only is my parking brake unusable (because it won't release), but I am starting to have the issue mentioned above, where putting the shifter in park intermittently doesn't trigger the solenoid to allow the release of the key. Looking at the posts, pictures, and videos above, this just reinforces to me that the Dart is a fun-to-drive car with poor design and engineering and unacceptably low-quality parts.

It's surreal that all these seemingly little things are failing at almost exactly the 5 year mark. My car was manufactured in late April 2013, I purchased it a couple of weeks later, and more parts have failed (or started to fail) in the few weeks my 60 month extended warranty ended than in the previous ~60 months of existence.

In any case, there is no way I'm buying and replacing the entire shift lever mechanism in my Dart because a little metal tab that presses a $0.25 plastic switch is flaking out. Before that happens, the ugly tree next to my driveway "mysteriously" falls and totals it. Bonus if it takes out the Grand Caravan as well. Double ultra combo bonus with extra cheese and large fries if my neighbor's lame Mitsubishi SUV gets flattened in the process (he hates it, says it drives like an underpowered golf cart, and very obviously regrets trading in his previous Dart GT for a more "family friendly" vehicle). Done right, my property management is on the hook for their dangerous, poorly maintained tree. It might even be true, because I have previously reported to them that the tree looks somewhat sickly.

Ok, I'm done venting about my Dart. For now.
 

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You know what, I should have taken the failed sprayers nozzles for what they were: the universe's first, last, and only warning that it was going to start delivering swift kicks to the nether regions now that my Dart was out of warranty. So now, not only is my parking brake unusable (because it won't release), but I am starting to have the issue mentioned above, where putting the shifter in park intermittently doesn't trigger the solenoid to allow the release of the key. Looking at the posts, pictures, and videos above, this just reinforces to me that the Dart is a fun-to-drive car with poor design and engineering and unacceptably low-quality parts.

It's surreal that all these seemingly little things are failing at almost exactly the 5 year mark. My car was manufactured in late April 2013, I purchased it a couple of weeks later, and more parts have failed (or started to fail) in the few weeks my 60 month extended warranty ended than in the previous ~60 months of existence.

In any case, there is no way I'm buying and replacing the entire shift lever mechanism in my Dart because a little metal tab that presses a $0.25 plastic switch is flaking out. Before that happens, the ugly tree next to my driveway "mysteriously" falls and totals it. Bonus if it takes out the Grand Caravan as well. Double ultra combo bonus with extra cheese and large fries if my neighbor's lame Mitsubishi SUV gets flattened in the process (he hates it, says it drives like an underpowered golf cart, and very obviously regrets trading in his previous Dart GT for a more "family friendly" vehicle). Done right, my property management is on the hook for their dangerous, poorly maintained tree. It might even be true, because I have previously reported to them that the tree looks somewhat sickly.

Ok, I'm done venting about my Dart. For now.
I feel for your situation, but really enjoy how thought out this "Tree" scenario is. I like the way you think...
 

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I feel for your situation, but really enjoy how thought out this "Tree" scenario is. I like the way you think...
The thing with that tree is that I sometimes worry it will do exactly what I describe without having a, uh, "planned accident", so to speak. It's this big pine tree that looks kind of sickly in places, making it rather ugly. It's literally right next to where I park my Dart, too, so if it came down, it would almost certainly damage my car.

Mostly I'm just frustrated and whining about it. Cars can be a pain in the behind when you really don't have time to deal with their crap. :)
 
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