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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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Do you have side skirts?

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Save your money, I don't see why there has to be that deep groove. It's the edge of the pinch weld that is the strongest. I use a small block of oak on the pad of my floor jack. Once I get the front wheel off the ground, I place a jack stand on that side on the part of the frame circled in the borrowed pic.
Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle Car Auto part


Vehicle Car Auto part Automotive tire Engine


Then I get the other side the same height.
To get the front end to where I can work under there, I have another longer piece of oak that I place under the crossmember and lift it as high as I want it and adjust the jack stands to the new height. The longer piece distributes the weight and no damage occurs to the crossmember.
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Save your money, I don't see why there has to be that deep groove. It's the edge of the pinch weld that is the strongest. I use a small block of oak on the pad of my floor jack. Once I get the front wheel off the ground, I place a jack stand on that side on the part of the frame circled in the borrowed pic.
View attachment 100834

View attachment 100826

Then I get the other side the same height.
To get the front end to where I can work under there, I have another longer piece of oak that I place under the crossmember and lift it as high as I want it and adjust the jack stands to the new height. The longer piece distributes the weight and no damage occurs to the crossmember.
View attachment 100842
looks like the blue jack in the first picture is a LOW profile floor jack....very nice....easier to work on today's cars that are low to the ground
 

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looks like the blue jack in the first picture is a LOW profile floor jack....very nice....easier to work on today's cars that are low to the ground
Yes it's the harbor freight aluminum low profile floor jack and it only lifts 14 inches. That red Dreadnaught 3 ton floor jack is about 40 years old, made in the USA and lifts 24 inches. I really like that I can lift up the front end evenly in the center.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Do you have side skirts?

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I'm embarrassed to say that I completely forgot about the side skirts (which I do have). Now knowing this, what method do fellow GT owner's use? i want to purchase the Injen CAI and install through tire well, but want to make sure I do not damage anything when hoisting the vehicle using my old 2/14 ton jack see pic). I am used to lifting SUV's, minivans and early 2000 Hyundai sedans. my Dart GT is a departure from previous vehicles (now that kids are older). Thanks.

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I'm embarrassed to say that I completely forgot about the side skirts. Now knowing this, what method do fellow GT owner's use? i want to purchase the Injen CAI and install through tire well, but want to make sure I do not damage anything when hoisting the vehicle using my old 2/14 ton jack see pic). I am used to lifting SUV's, minivans and early 2000 Hyundai sedans. my Dart GT is a departure from previous vehicles (now that kids are older). Thanks.

View attachment 102506
Since you don't have side skirts, don't waste your money on those pads.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I do have side skirts. Sorry for the confusion. See below:

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Save your money, I don't see why there has to be that deep groove. It's the edge of the pinch weld that is the strongest. I use a small block of oak on the pad of my floor jack. Once I get the front wheel off the ground, I place a jack stand on that side on the part of the frame circled in the borrowed pic.
View attachment 100834

View attachment 100826

Then I get the other side the same height.
To get the front end to where I can work under there, I have another longer piece of oak that I place under the crossmember and lift it as high as I want it and adjust the jack stands to the new height. The longer piece distributes the weight and no damage occurs to the crossmember.
View attachment 100842
Hey alpinegreenneon, Frank here in the East Texas piney woods. I've got a 2015 SXT 2.4 that I have to replace the OP sensor/sending unit on and I've been trying to find out a way to jack the whole front end up at once with my 4 ton floor jack. I spotted your post here using a piece of wood on the cross member but don't know exactly the location you are talking about. I'm including a pic of the location I'm guesstimating. Would you please tell me if I got the right spot, it's marked by the rectangle and it looks like the only logical location to me plus It looks like what a cross member should look like although back in my hot rod days they were made out of enough steel to support the Golden Gate bridge.
I used to take the car down the highway to Gomer's garage and we would work on it there because he had a real nice lift but he's closed shop now and I gotta do it in my driveway. This old man don't need to be doing this stuff no-mo.
Thanks for any help you can throw my way, Frank in East Texas
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The area I use for jacking up the front end:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive design


Once it's where I have access to what I'm working on, then I use jackstands where the green circles are. I use that solid green area any time I have it raised up and never have any problem. The piece of oak I use is about 1 5/8 inches thick, 15 inches long, and 3 inches wide. If you look close you can see the indents from the crossmember.
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Doing an oil change this morning so I decided to take a couple more pics. The crossmember has 2 ribs that are probably the strongest area of the crossmember:
Automotive tire Hood Tire Motor vehicle Grey


Definitely want to spread out the supported area by using a block of wood and include those two ribs:
Wood Automotive exterior Tints and shades Hardwood Shelf
 
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Awesome alpinegreenneon, you included a lot of excellent info in your reply and I thank you very much for your efforts.
I never would have thought that that aluminum cross member would support the weight but then I doubt there's a lot of weight to these new cars.
Mine is due an oil change too so I'll kill 2 birds with one stone.
I made up a jack pad for the 4 ton jack for lifting my 4 wheeler plus lifting the front and rear of the zero turn. It can lift the whole 4 wheeler at once with it. Of course Harbor freight comes out with one based on the same technique. Somebody peeked in my garage.
Again, thank you so much for your help on this, I have been trying to find a way to jack the whole front at once.
Frank in the East Texas piney woods
 

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Be sure to use at least a 15 inch long board to spread out the lifting force. Don't leave the floor jack as the only support. As soon as you have the height you need, place the jack stands and remove the floor jack. Don't be surprised if your floor jack doesn't fit under there because the Dart sits so low. I use the pinch welds and a small floor jack to place jack stands at an intermediate height so the big 3 ton floor jack fits.
 

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Thanks alpinegreenneon, I always use jack stands on anything I have to get under including the zero turn. Now back in the day before jack stands were readily available we always used the old style wood and metal milk crates, worked great and even held the weight of my 57 Ford that I stuck a 390 big block in. I was planning on driving the Dart up on a couple 2" high concrete paver blocks to get my jack underneath.
Oh, I apologize for the late reply, my phone and internet service went down Friday morning and Verizon drug their feet getting it back up. We don't matter out here in the sticks and they even said that. It's getting pretty regular but we have no other options out here.
Thanks for all your help and the board length too, that saved me trying to measure it from the side of the car.
Again, thank you for your help, Frank in East Texas
 
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