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I have the 9/10 speaker system with the sub in the rear deck. Am I correct in thinking I can use the two plugs going to the stock subwoofer(which I have upgraded already) and hook up one line converter for the stock sub to have its own dedicated amplifier and use the other plug for another amplifier for two other subs? I’m assuming the two plugs are for the stock sub being dual voice coils.
 

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I finished my installs in both of my Darts. One good and the other not so good.

The not so good:
I was in a time crunch; and, didn't have time to do it. So, I took the car to the local "Car Stereo" shop. I printed pictures and info from this thread because the shop owner told me they had not worked on the new Darts yet. I handed the info and the AMP owners manual to the tech (owner's son) and explained I thought it might help. I was immediately informed that he had been installing his entire life and didn't need the info. I should have just left w/ my car right then and there. He finished the job in a timely matter and it looks clean. But, he didn't wire it in right. There was NO sound coming from the sub? I traced a ground that wasn't supposed to be hooked up. I took, it back to him and asked him to clip it. The AMP/SUB still doesn't sound right; but, my daughter had to go. So, I don't have the final story. A. Either he didn't get the polarity right. or, B. Using the 3" R/L speakers off the back dash SUCKS.

The Good:
On my second Dart I wired the JL AMP off the factory Sub straight into the High Level Inputs. I wired it Mono(+ from factory sub to R+ on Amp and - from Factory sub to L- on Amp).
I touched the wires I installed from the factory sub (See Pic below) to a AA battery instead of taping the wires to the battery and trying to touch the speaker terminals. Anyway, I hope you get the point. The SUB sounds GREAT!! Gain on 25% and Base Boost on 25%.

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I also used the Trailer Wire trick posted by DartBB Thank you very much!!


Here's a pic of the fuse box. After removing the heat shrink, I had to add the "Blue" wire for enough length to get to the "Hot" that was key activated. By the way, This lead is super easy to tie into to. Just open up a couple of aluminum crimps, insert wire, re-crimp w/ needle nose pliers and sauder(not necessary).

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This pic is the trailer wire in the trunk by the L tail light. EzzzPezzze

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A note on running through the hole behind the break pedal. Once you uncover the hole and poke a hole through it. Realize, that was NOT the grommet( there is a soft spongy tape on the inside, the grommet is another 1" - 2"s deeper on the outside firewall). You need a fairly long, sharp pointed tool, (I used my test light) and I still ended up pushing the grommet out of the fire wall w/ my "coat hanger" fishing wire. It was cold outside and I didn't go looking for it. Here is a blurry Pic of my power wire coming through the firewall and a couple more pics showing how I ran it through the channel. The power cable was easy to shove down the channels.

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Next was the Ground Wire. Pretty straight forward. I used the middle seat mount. See Pics below:

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When you hooked up to the factory sub which was which?? + -?? Color wise because I know there are a few in there
 
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