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I have a 2016 dodge dart sxt uconnect radio and im trying to hook up a converter. N behind the radio all the wires are Black no colors. Trying to find the rear left & right speaker wires..
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Look what I found....

Front Door Speaker Wiring Colors

SPEAKER-LEFT FRONT DOOR:
--------------------------------------
GRAY-VIOLET +
GRAY-WHITE -

SPEAKER-RIGHT FRONT DOOR
--------------------------------------
D.GREEN-VIOLET +
D.GREEN-YELLOW -


Rear Door Speaker Wiring Colors

SPEAKER-LEFT REAR DOOR
--------------------------------------
GRAY-L.GREEN +
GRAY-D.GREEN -

SPEAKER-RIGHT REAR DOOR
--------------------------------------
GRAY-VIOLET +
D.GREEN -



 

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Look what I found....

Front Door Speaker Wiring Colors

SPEAKER-LEFT FRONT DOOR:
--------------------------------------
GRAY-VIOLET +
GRAY-WHITE -

SPEAKER-RIGHT FRONT DOOR
--------------------------------------
D.GREEN-VIOLET +
D.GREEN-YELLOW -


Rear Door Speaker Wiring Colors

SPEAKER-LEFT REAR DOOR
--------------------------------------
GRAY-L.GREEN +
GRAY-D.GREEN -

SPEAKER-RIGHT REAR DOOR
--------------------------------------
GRAY-VIOLET +
D.GREEN -



Can anyone confirm that these colors are the correct colors for my 2013 Rallye - in the loom? That is, I was told factory rear speaker wires were DK. GRN/GRY - DK.GRN/YEL, but I could not find wire pairs with those colors in the rocker panel loom. I took the door panel off, and they were indeed the colors INSIDE THE DOOR. I don't want those - I need the actual wire colors in the sill that I should tap.

Also found a source listing gray/white - gray/dk. green for Left Rear and dk. grn/lt. grn - dk. grn/gy or dk. gn - dk. grn/wh for Right Rear, but neither of those are present in my loom on either side, either.

I'll tear into it again and see if I can locate the pairs listed above. EVERYTHING ELSE IS READY :furious: Power, remote, and Ground laid in, Amp is mounted, box with Alpine SWR-10D2...SO CLOSE!!

The Chrysler wiring site link on page one or two is broken now - anybody have and updated link? I'll Google around some more.

Thanks for any help at all!
 

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Can anyone confirm that these colors are the correct colors for my 2013 Rallye - in the loom? That is, I was told factory rear speaker wires were DK. GRN/GRY - DK.GRN/YEL, but I could not find wire pairs with those colors in the rocker panel loom. I took the door panel off, and they were indeed the colors INSIDE THE DOOR. I don't want those - I need the actual wire colors in the sill that I should tap.

Also found a source listing gray/white - gray/dk. green for Left Rear and dk. grn/lt. grn - dk. grn/gy or dk. gn - dk. grn/wh for Right Rear, but neither of those are present in my loom on either side, either.

I'll tear into it again and see if I can locate the pairs listed above. EVERYTHING ELSE IS READY :furious: Power, remote, and Ground laid in, Amp is mounted, box with Alpine SWR-10D2...SO CLOSE!!

The Chrysler wiring site link on page one or two is broken now - anybody have and updated link? I'll Google around some more.

Thanks for any help at all!
The wire colors change when it goes into the door, not sure why dodge figured that would be a good idea.
 

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Look what I found....

Front Door Speaker Wiring Colors

SPEAKER-LEFT FRONT DOOR:
--------------------------------------
GRAY-VIOLET +
GRAY-WHITE -

SPEAKER-RIGHT FRONT DOOR
--------------------------------------
D.GREEN-VIOLET +
D.GREEN-YELLOW -


Rear Door Speaker Wiring Colors

SPEAKER-LEFT REAR DOOR
--------------------------------------
GRAY-L.GREEN +
GRAY-D.GREEN -

SPEAKER-RIGHT REAR DOOR
--------------------------------------
GRAY-VIOLET +
D.GREEN -



These were still not totally correct for my 2013 Rallye. I found this link: Dodge Wiring Diagram Search

...which shows DK GRN - DK GRN/GY for Right Rear, and GY/LT GRN - GY/DK GRN for Left Rear, coming out of the connector on the back of the head unit. They change to something else in the sill, however, so I just tapped in there close to the white 21(?) pin connector.

Here's a link to a decent video on how to get to the head unit:
.
Summary: there are five screws on the face of the glovebox, and six up under the dash (four phillips, two 7mm hex head) to get the glovebox out, then four more phillips holding the head unit in.

I NOW HAVE THE BOOM. w00t!:smile: Hope this helps somebody else in the same boat!
 

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I have a dodge dart 2015 se basic model with no uconnect navigation or satellite. I am trying to figure out which ones would be best to splice when it comes to speaker wiring. I been looking all over and gave up and said i will make one of these never been here before i am trying to put in a line output converter. To wire my amp and sub. I took off the sill to my driver side door and found a few paired wires that are twisted together but cant seem to find the speaker layout for the wiring of speakers. For the front or back. So what should i do i need answers a two day project turned into a week really fast. I will post a picture for better understanding. When phone has more power

Sent from my LGLS676 using Tapatalk

Sent from my LGLS676 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Can anybody tell me which fuse in the fuse box to tap into for my remote wire. Having difficulties picking one that is powered when the key is turned.
Underneath the drivers dashboard (you'll have to uncomfortably lay on your floor mat to see in there) you will find a fuse block:


That video isn't the best but its more clear once he locates the fuse block. You will see (3) red blade fuses closest to the camera. One or more of those is switched power. Good luck!
 

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Excellent question and that answer is rather subjective so it's hard to quantify. I'm more old school in that I like the sound of a traditional woofer over a subwoofer which I find can be overbearing; that often times obnoxious woom, woom, woom you can encounter at traffic lights. I'm like rock/alternative more than anything and woofers better reproduce this genre than subwoofers.

I used to have this -> MTX TW122 Road Thunder Dual 12" Full-Range Wedg 267-076

Connected to a 200 watt rms amp, kicked serious ass despite its low price tag.

Now, to give you my opinion on the powered enclosure... I'm definitely enjoying it especially due to the fact that I can fine tune it on the fly. It's not a giant box and thus not overpowering and it does surprisingly well. The bass is delightfully perfect inside the car without being a public nuisance outside. Top 40, rock, golden oldies all sound better than I thought they would.

The only remaining shortcoming is the stock door speakers. They really lack fidelity.
WHERE DID YOU SPLICE OR TAP IN YOUR 1 RCA Pair?Behind the factory amp under the glove compartment?
 

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Either the trunk lock or the wiring to it.
 

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Audio installations in the Dart are now common place and I believe everyone is getting the feel for it. Tap your speakers with an inline high output converter and install your favorite components.

The only aspect of the Dart’s native audio system that I deplore is what appears to be a built in Automatic Gain Control (AGC) which attenuates frequencies to prevent distortion and cannot be disabled to my knowledge. It’s very obvious on certain tracks and is rather annoying.

Regardless, I wanted to share my installation of a subwoofer in my Dart. I did not want to complicate the installation by choosing a subwoofer that fit within the rear deck opening. I’ve spent years installing car audio and I wanted to keep it simple. By complicate I mean: speaker selection, amplifier selection, sound dampening, rattling and any other aspect of component selection that could be encountered.

Instead I chose the following equipment:

-----------------------

* Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 Single 12" Powered Subwoofer Enclosure

-Specifications-
Woofer Size: 12"
System Configuration: Sealed
Power Handling: 300 Watts RMS
Frequency Response: 35Hz to 150Hz
Integrated Amplifier: 300 Watts RMS
Crossover Controls: Variable 50Hz to 200Hz @ 12dB/Octave Butterworth
Tone Controls: Gain & Bass Boost

-Signal Input-
Low-Level: 1 RCA Pair
High-Level: Left/Right Summed Inputs
Power Input Connector: Removable Connector Power/Ground/Remote
Power Wire Gauge: 8 AWG
Heat Sink Type: Extruded Aluminum
Cooling: Convection
Remote Control: Included
Visual Indicators: Power, Protection
Circuit Topology Class: Class-D

-Dimensions-
15 x 19.8 x D1 11 - D2 7 (in)
38.1 x 50.29 x D1 27.94 - D2 17.78 (cm)



* Scosche EFX Delta D Block

-Specifications-
Power and Ground Distribution/Combination Block
Max Input Gauge Size: 4 AWG
Max Output Gauge Size: 1/0 AWG
Fuse Type: Mini AFS


  • StreetWires FSAFS40 - 40 Amp AFS Fuses
  • StreetWires ZN1K-04 - 4 Gauge Amp Install Kit
  • Hitron SPW-16100 - 100 ft. of OFC 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
  • 5 ft. Red and Black 4 Gauge Power Wire


-----------------------


I started my installation by reading many of the reviews and experiences of fellow Dart owners. This gave me plenty of insight to possible issues and roadblocks. I also made heavy use of Chrysler’s online wiring site to determine exactly which wires I would need to tap in order to achieve my objectives.

Objectives

  1. Locate passage through firewall
  2. Tap wiring at front door speakers and run leads to trunk
  3. Install amplifier wiring harness and turn-on signal wire from battery to trunk
  4. Run additional wires to front door speakers for future replacements
  5. Run bass boost remote control to front dashboard
  6. Install power/ground distribution block in trunk






The primary area of work is going to be as pictured above. On the 2.0L Tigershark Engine model there is a decent predrilled passage through the firewall that is about 1.5”-2” in diameter with a grommet directly behind the brake pedal.

It is difficult to retrieve this grommet without losing it due to way that it is installed. I tried my best but ultimately it fell down into the engine compartment which is as you know sealed at the bottom. With a bit of ingenuity consisting of a broomstick and a vacuum (don’t ask) I was able to retrieve the factory grommet from the base pan below the engine and I did so just for the sake of it not being permanently lost down there; I used my own grommet that was actually about 6” long and tapered. You cut off the smallest portion that would allow the wires to pass through and zip tie the end. Nice!

In this instance I am working with a 4ga power main and an 18ga amplifier turn-on signal wire both secured inside split loom.

Also in the picture above is the primary wiring channel hidden beneath the hard plastic paneling where you see the factory protective clear plastic protector used to avoid scratches on the rocker panel.




Once the paneling is removed the wiring harness and channel are exposed. I started working here so that I understood the spaces and confines with which I had to work with and allowed me to understand how I would run my power main, speaker, signal wires etc.






Exposed above you can see the main speaker wires for the L/F Door Speaker. They are actually easy to locate if you use Chrysler’s wiring site coupled with the fact that speaker wires are typically twisted. The other twisted pair is for the dash speaker. I will be duplicating my work on the passenger side as well.

The connection used to connect the wiring to the door is amazing and well though out. In older vehicles wiring typically ran straight through the pillar inside a rubber grommet and into the door which made servicing difficult and caused issues with wire chaffing etc. On late model vehicles they’ve opted to make the door Plug N’ Play which is brilliant. You can essentially remove the entire Dart door within minutes as there are two main bolts and a waterproof harness connector which plugs into the pillar. Nice again!

The wires in the image above; the upper leads run to the head unit and the lower leads run to the pillar connection. Instead of just tapping the wires I cut them and then teed them with the speaker wire running back to the trunk. This is the line I will use to obtain audio from the head unit. I also ran a spare speaker line from the same location to the trunk; it is not connected to anything and simply remains in the channel for future use.

This will allow me to replace the stock door speakers in the future and power them with my own amplifier. In which case I would connect the spare speaker line to the lower leads going to the pillar connector/door and the upper leads would stay connected to the main speaker wire going to the trunk.

This will allow me to feed the high output lead from the head unit to multiple components.

I chose the Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 Single 12" Powered Subwoofer Enclosure






For the sake of simplicity, this is a well designed, decent sized, powered sub that will be more than adequate for my needs.

Some of the advantages here are that it automatically turns on based on your choice of signal from a 12v source, or audio signal over the speaker line which can be set to work with high input levels.

In essence Rocford Fosgate gives you an all inclusive package to get up and running with minimal investment in multiple products such as an independent high output line converter and no need for a 12v signal line.

But you may be saying to yourself, “Zep you mentioned running a 12v amplifier turn-on lead!” And you’d be correct. Much like the additional speaker line for the front door speakers I also planned for the future.




I love this car!

In the engine compartment you will find your 12v automotive battery. On the battery is a black plastic cover with a red cap over it. The red cap conceals the 12v jump start post in case you need to jump start your vehicle. The black plastic cover (at least on my Limited) contains a spare round opening. How fortuitous to me!




Underneath the black plastic cover is an array of fuses on an odd shaped platform connected to the positive battery post. These fuses serve a couple of different purposes of which exceed the scope of this tutorial.

On this platform I found a spare post that had no connection or nut secured on it. I had a spare lock-nut in my collection of spare parts which met the exact form, fit, and function. This is where I connected my amplifier cable.




The cable itself runs from the battery, down, and up into the fuse box. This is where I placed the inline fuse holder for the amplifier which was included in the StreetWires ZN1K-04 amplifier wiring kit. You always want the inline fuse holder close to the battery. This is close enough and the fuse box offers protection from external elements.

You can also see a blue wire labeled as AMP POWER/SWITCHING. This wire is not connected to anything at this point. This will be used with any possible future amplifiers that lack the automatic audio detection of Rockford’s powered subwoofer. It would be connected to one of the fuses in the fuse box which become energized when the ignition is switched on. In the meantime it will remain coiled and disconnected.

From the fuse box the red 12v / 4ga main power line and blue wire signal wire run out of the backside of the fuse box, down the firewall and through the grommet into the cabin. The cables then run under the dash towards the pillar and along the rocker panel wiring channel all the way to the trunk.

Along with the power and signal lines I've also run my two speaker wires (high level and spare return wire) which are kept separate from the power and 12v signal wire. In addition I also ran the cable for the remote bass boost controller. This is basically a 20 foot long 3.5mm stereo cable.




In this picture I have the Scosche EFX Delta D Block. This is a really well made power and ground distribution block that allows you to distribute to multiple components. I chose this block so that I can add a separate 4 channel amplifier for the door speakers in the future. In the meantime it will distribute power to the Rockford powered enclosure. I installed two 40 AMP fuses in the block. Between the block and the battery there are two points of protection.

I ground down the paint on the interior of the trunk where the ground cable connects and secured it using a self tapping screw. You always want to keep your ground connection as short as possible. In this application I left the ground cable about 1 foot long. The distribution block is secured to the rear deck angle using self tapping screws. Both the power and ground cables enter on the left side of the distribution block.




The high level audio leads coming from the L/F and R/F doors were soldered to pigtails on a clean set of female RCA connectors. Heat shrink was used to finish the soldering work. I did this because the speaker input connector for the Rockford subwoofer came with male RCA connectors. I didn’t want to cut this adapter so I did the next best thing.




The main power connection for the sealed enclosure is a solid block that your cables secure directly into. The unused connection in the middle is to secure the blue 12v signal switching line if it’s used.




In this picture you can see the sealed enclosures power cable, the high input speaker connector and the 3.5mm bass boost connector that goes to the controller mounted on the dash board.




Here is a complete view of all the wiring in the trunk. Secured behind the carpet over the left rear wheel well is about 5 feet of the blue 12v switching cable, and the future speaker wires for the L/F and R/F doors. Whenever I upgrade the door speakers I will also upgrade the rear doors as well. I will have to run additional wiring to them as I have for the fronts.




This is what I consider a clean install. In this picture the sub is lying down. It produces much more punch and is aesthetically pleasing. It doesn't take much trunk space at all.




Removal of the subwoofer takes only a couple of seconds.






Above are a couple of shots with the remote bass level controller. Or as Rockford calls it “Punch Level Controller”. It’s nice to be able to adjust the bass with a single potentiometer rather than navigating a head unit.




Above is a close up of the subwoofers controls and connections.


I hope this helps someone either in the installation of their own system or at least gives someone an idea of what can be done.
Need help I cut the yellow and gray and the violet and gray shown in the picture and wired them to the trunk but now my door speakers don’t work
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
If you cut the "yellow and gray and the violet and gray" wires it will disconnect that door speaker. This is normal. You then tap those lines "COMING FROM THE DASHBOARD" and send those to the trunk.

Do this for all four speakers, and run them to your amplifier. Then run lines from the amplifier, back to the remaining pigtails for each of the door speakers.

Good Luck, and most important, have fun!
 

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Yes, that is correct. Once you do the driver side, the passenger side becomes easy. I do it this way because I prefer not to take the dashboard apart. This car has 36 computer modules in it. You DO NOT want to piss it off.
I'm curious as to why you have to do both sides. Why can't you just do one side? So you would need 2 converter and 2 runs of rcas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
I'm curious as to why you have to do both sides. Why can't you just do one side? So you would need 2 converter and 2 runs of rcas?
If you are just installing a powered subwoofer, then no, you do not need to do both sides. But if you are doing all of the speakers and you want to hear music in stereo, then yes, both sides.
 
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