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No converter needed. The sub you speak of handles high speaker line input.
That's what I was thinking. Follow up to that if you don't mind. I could tap the speakers with the in line anyways and then run that to the sub and it would still work, correct? I'm looking more towards the future, incase I decide to switch to a different step up I don't want to retap the speakers and have to run wiring again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
That's what I was thinking. Follow up to that if you don't mind. I could tap the speakers with the in line anyways and then run that to the sub and it would still work, correct? I'm looking more towards the future, incase I decide to switch to a different step up I don't want to retap the speakers and have to run wiring again.
Absolutely. The sub will work with high level or line level inputs. Fosgate makes a nice box. To address your latter statement, you only need to tap your speakers once. Use your trunk as your primary location for all of your audio equipment including in-lines, amps, converters, EQs, and everything else you can think of. When you tap your speakers or any other wiring that you do, run them to the trunk. You're then future proof for any changes that you want to make in the future.
 

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Absolutely. The sub will work with high level or line level inputs. Fosgate makes a nice box. To address your latter statement, you only need to tap your speakers once. Use your trunk as your primary location for all of your audio equipment including in-lines, amps, converters, EQs, and everything else you can think of. When you tap your speakers or any other wiring that you do, run them to the trunk. You're then future proof for any changes that you want to make in the future.
Perfect. I was being stupid. I don't know why I didn't just think of it like that. Thank you so much!!
 

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Does anyone have experience with the AudioControl-LC2i as a hi to low converter? It appears to also compensate for AGC as well as have a 12v trigger based on audio signal. If anyone has had experience with Audio Control, I'd appreciate some feedback, as I have never heard of them :)

Want to get my Sony Xplode, and twin 10" MTX box in the trunk :)

Thanks!
 

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Does anyone have experience with the AudioControl-LC2i as a hi to low converter? It appears to also compensate for AGC as well as have a 12v trigger based on audio signal. If anyone has had experience with Audio Control, I'd appreciate some feedback, as I have never heard of them :)

Want to get my Sony Xplode, and twin 10" MTX box in the trunk :)

Thanks!
I haven't used that particular unit but audiocontrol has been around for a long time and make great stuff.
 

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yeah, I didn't need the converter, the 8" powered bazooka comes with a wiring harness that you can wire direct. I have the 100 watt amp and really... I need more. I already had the bazooka in my previous car.. a 1993 Stealth, it boomed that lil hatch back great, but the trunk on the dart is so big... it can use more but it added some thump !!
 

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@Zeprider How would one know if they already had the wires for the rear deck speakers even though they don't have the 9-speaker system? Where would i/we look to see if there were wires there? Under the deck lid padding in the passenger cabin, or behind the side pieces in the trunk? Would make the install a lot less of a headache.

@Marshmallowtwin You mean you hooked up the 12v switch wire to that one in the center console? Wouldn't that defeat the purpose, since that 12v outlet isn't switched?
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
@Zeprider How would one know if they already had the wires for the rear deck speakers even though they don't have the 9-speaker system? Where would i/we look to see if there were wires there? Under the deck lid padding in the passenger cabin, or behind the side pieces in the trunk? Would make the install a lot less of a headache.?
I honestly have no answer for you. You would expect to find a connector at each location where a speaker would be installed. I did not have such a thing in my Ltd.
 

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I honestly have no answer for you. You would expect to find a connector at each location where a speaker would be installed. I did not have such a thing in my Ltd.
Unless they just ran the wires to an extent, so that adding them if/when needed wouldn't require completely running the wires. I might try checking those two places when i have time. I wouldn't be surprised if they're either place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
I just replaced my door speakers after watching part one and now I find out there is no part deux?

Oh The Humanity!!
It is awfully disappointing. But I assure you, once you've been suckered into the job by part un, you will discover the wiring and subsequent trunk-contortion act to be as tedious and unrelenting as I did. And then trying recording it at the same time, by yourself in a 100F garage.

You see what happened was...

When I reviewed the footage I realized that part deux was buggered. I could not effectively communicate the task no matter what I did. The footage wasn't there, AND what I had was WRONG!

Oy vey!

But my tunes JAM!
 

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I hear ya. Part one was just so awesome it left me wanting more :D

I put in some pioneer ts-a6965r's. Best Buy has them on sale for $41 a pair. I had $45 in rewards so I got speakers on the cheap lol.

The mounting depth on them is only 2 7/8 so they dropped right in.

Sounds like a completely different system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
did you run the speaker wire under the trim with the power wire Zeprider
Yes and no. The wire channel in the rocker panel allows for modest separation of signal and power. While all wiring does go through the same pathway they are separated to the best possible degree.
 

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Hey, just wondering, I'm about to install an idq12 in my gt, am I going to notice any difference between tapping the rears be the fronts? Also with the automatic gain if I just set the hpf on the amp and am running off a line-out the sub shouldn't be affected by an any gain adjustment that the head unit puts in place.
 
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